• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.48 no.4
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• pp.313-319
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• 2022

In this study, the stability of cream containing 1% of cannabidiol (CBD) with more than 99% extracted from domestic Cannabis sativa was evaluated. The pH, hardness, content, and chromaticity were measured at intervals of 2 weeks under storage conditions for each temperature for 12 weeks (4 ℃, 25 ℃, 37 ℃, and 45 ℃). The pH of the experimental group containing 1% of CBD tended to decrease more than that of the control group. As a result of measuring the change in the content of CBD in the cream under each temperature for 12 weeks using HPLC, the difference in the amount of decrement according to temperature was confirmed. It was confirmed that as a result of measuring the chromaticity using color difference meter, the yellowness of the cream containing CBD increased according to the increase by the storage period and temperature compared to the control group. From the above results, it was confirmed that the content decrease and color change according to the temperature of the pH 5 ~ 6 cream formulation containing CBD. When CBD is applied to medicine and cosmetic formulations in the future, it is considered that research and development should be conducted in consideration of the change in the quantity and physicochemical quality of CBD under the temperature.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.39 no.1
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• pp.47-54
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• 2013

Aloe gel microcapsule was prepared by dehydrating dispersed aloe gel droplets in the form of W/O emulsion using a vacuum evaporator. The microcapsules remained in stable suspensions after washing with mineral oil and had a homogeneous spherical structure with diameter less than 6.4 ${\mu}m$. The microcapsule suspension in mineral oil (> 41%) exhibited a step increase in viscosity and shear-thinning but not showed thixotropic behavior with a yield stress higher than 300 Pa. The dense suspension appeared to be semi-solid as the microcapsule fraction increases and to be stable after heat treatment at $105^{\circ}C$ for 15 min. In conclusion, the dense suspension composed of gel microcapsules is expected to provide a basic cosmetic formulation that can be applied to develop various types of aloe gel cosmetic products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.15-31
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• 2012

In our previous studies, the antioxidant, anti-aging, and antibacterial activities of Persicaria hydropipier L. extract, and the moisturizing effect of cream containing P. hydropipier extract were investigated. In this study, the cellular protective effects of P. hydropipier extract and isoquercitrin, main component from P. hydropipier in $^1O_2$-induced photohemolysis of human erythrocytes and ultraviolet B (UVB)-exposed HaCaT cells were investigated. Liposomes such as ethosome and elastic liposome for enhanced transdermal delivery were prepared. Size, loading efficiency, stability, and cumulative permeated amounts of ethosomes and elastic liposomes were evaluated. P. hydropipier extract and isoquercitrin showed more prominent cellular protective effect than (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol, known as lipid antioxidant at $5{\mu}g/mL$. P. hydropipier extract didn't show any characteristics of cytotoxicity at $50{\mu}g/mL$. When HaCaT cells were exposed to a single large dose ($400mJ/cm^2$) of UVB, the extract protected the cells against UVB radiation in a concentration dependent manner ($12.5{\sim}50{\mu}g/mL$). Cell viability of HaCaT cells exposed to UVB $400mJ/cm^2$ was increased by treatment with P. hydropipier extract or isoquercitrin from 36 % (cell viability of positve control groups) to 90 % (cell viability of P. hydropipier extract or isoquercitrin- treated groups). The size of 0.04 % P. hydropiper extract loaded ethosomes was 173.0 nm and the loading efficiency was 55.58 %. 0.04 % P. hydropiper extract loaded ethosomes were stable with as monodisperse particles for 1 week. The ethosome exhibited more skin permeability than general liposome and ethanol solution. The optimal ratio of lipid to surfactant ($Tego^{(R)}$ care 450) of 0.1 % P. hydropiper extract loaded elastic liposomes was observed to be 95 : 5. Vesicle size of 0.1 % P. hydropiper extract loaded elastic liposome was 176.5 nm. The deformability index of the elastic liposome was 16.4. The loading efficiency was 68.8 %. The elastic liposome containing P. hydropiper extract showed more skin permeability than liposome without surfactant ($Tego^{(R)}$ care 450).

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.3
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• pp.203-212
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• 2023

This study was conducted to investigate the possibility of peanut shell, a by-product of peanut, as a functional cosmetic ingredient. Peanut shell extract showed high antioxidant activity with IC₅₀ values of 75.00, 46.33, and 472.83 ㎍/mL for DPPH and ABTS radical scavenging and SOD-like activity, respectively. Furthermore, peanut shell extract was efficiently decreased the MMP-1 and MMP-3 protein level in the UVB treated-HaCaT cell and maintained procollagen protein level similar to normal control. Similar to anti-wrinkle related protein expression assay, the IC₅₀ value of elastase and collagnease inhibition in peanut shell extract was lower as 0.30 and 0.09 mg/mL, respectively, than that of the positive control. Additionally, eriodictyol and luteolin, which are isolated from peanut shell extract, showed 53.8 and 98.0% elastase inhibition rate, respectively, and 60.1 and 72.5% collagenase inhibition rate, respectively, at a concentration of 0.1 mg/mL. Thus, luteolin was assumed to be the effective ingredient for wrinkle inhibition in peanut shell extract. As a result of stability evaluation of lotion and cream formulations containing peanut shell extract, it was confirmed to be a stable formulation with no significant changes. Therefore, it is considered that peanut shell extract can be applied as a cosmetic ingredient for wrinkle inhibition.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.656-663
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• 2013

This study using yogurt of food in order to increase the conservativeness and stability of lactobacillus, to be deliciously flavored and give it visual differential effect, were described regarding making the preparing method of double matrix capsulation in food industries. Our study group was especially made to soft and moisture cream using 5wt% of sucrose ester emulsifier as first capsulation. Double matrix capsulation was formed with the best stabilized bead type capsules when it blended 1:3 ratio of chitosan and alginate. The bead diameter size was about 2.5~4mm (mean diameter: 3mm). Activity of lactobacillus containing cream for depending on various pH variations showed that alkalinity ($pH=10.3{\pm}0.3$) condition was higher than acidity ($pH=4.3{\pm}0.3$) and neutrality ($pH=7.12{\pm}0.2$) conditions. After a month, it also was certified to the activity of lactobacillus in incubated at $37^{\circ}C$ in culture medium. As application of food industry, we developed the containing lactobacillus capsule and 5 colored kinds of double matrix capsulation in yogurt cream. As for above mentioned those results, one of tool to stabilize the living lactobacillus, doubled matrix capsulation greatly be expected to contribute to food industry. Furthermore, it can be expected to apply the drug delivery system (DDS) to active ingredients of stabilizing technologies at drug and cosmetic industries.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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• v.37 no.6
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• pp.696-700
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• 2008

The objective of this study was to investigate the genotoxicological safety and biological functions of octadeca-9,12-dienyl-3,4,5-trihydroxybenzoate (GA-LA) in cream-based emulsion for future application as a functional cosmetic material as well as food. GA-LA was synthesized chemically from gallic acid and linoleic acid. The Ames test showed that GA-LA did not have mutagenical toxicity. The control cream-based emulsion containing GA-LA was prepared by commercial method and tested for 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activity. Ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP) and inhibition effect against tyrosinase of the emulsions were tested for the evaluation of antioxidative and skin-whitening activities. The results showed that DPPH radical scavenging activity in the cream-based emulsion containing GA-LA was higher (52.65%) than that of the control (4.30%). The FRAP value of the sample was 12.85%, however, no activity was found in control. The inhibition effect of tyrosinase showed also a higher value (26.29%) when compared to the control. The results indicate that GA-LA, which showed superior antioxidative and skin-whitening activities in cream-based emulsion, is a useful functional material applicable in cosmetic products as well as food.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.4 s.54
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• pp.295-304
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• 2005

Recently, arbutin, oil soluble licorice extact (GLY), ascorbyl glucoside (AA2G), and ethyl ascorbyl ether (EAE) have been widely used as functional whitening ingredients. To Investigate which combination between the above agents could be more effective for whitening effect, tyrosinase activity and MSH-induced melanin production in B-16 melanoma cells were investigated. Both GLY and arbutin dose-dependently inhibited purified tyrosinase activity. The inhibitory effects of GLY with AA2A or EAE on Drosinase activity were more potent than those of GLY alone, whereas that of arbutin with other ingreadients did not show those effects. In MSH-induced melanin production in B-16 melanoma cells, the mixture of Gly and EAE more significantly reduced melanin formation than Gly alone. Stability of mixture of GLY, arbutin, AA2A and EAE exposed at the temperature of $25^{\circ}C\;or\;45^{\circ}C$ for 30 days were also investigated. All of the combinations of whitening agents did not show any critical changes in their composition stability. These data suggest that the combination of GLY and vitamin C derivatives such as AA2G and EAE may be useful for the promotion of whitening effect.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.545-554
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• 2017

This study is concerned with the stability of liquid crystal forming emulsifier with localized depend on change of pH using liquid crystal forming agent of advanced company. The liquid crystal emulsifying agent was localized using Sugar Crystal-LC (bio-tech Co., Ltd., Korea), and comparative samples were measured by using Nikkomulese-LC (Nikko Camicarls, Japan) and Alacel-LC (Croda Camicarls, UK). Liquid crystal formation was confirmed microscopically to show the formation of liquid crystal structure at acidic (pH=4.2), neutral (pH=7.0) and alkaline (pH=11.7). The particles of the liquid crystal were observed with a polarizing microscope according to the stirring speed. The stirring time was all the same for 3 minutes with a homo-mixer, and the stirring speed was increased to 2500 rpm, 3500 rpm and 4500 rpm to observe the liquid crystal state. As a result, it was found that the Korean surfactant was more stable and clear liquid crystal structure was formed than the two foreign acids. In the case of the UK in acid zone, the emulsion particle size was uniform and unstable. In the case of Japanese surfactant, it has similar structure and performance to those of localized Korean. It was found that Korean surfactant had superior emulsifying performance in acid zone compared with foreign products. It is possible to develop various formulations such as liquid crystal cream, lotion, eye cream, etc. using Sugar Crystal-LC emulsifier as an application cosmetic field, and it is expected that it can be widely applied as emulsifying technology for skin care external application in the pharmaceutical industry and the pharmaceutical industry as well as the cosmetics industry.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.4
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• pp.341-352
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• 2021

Acerola is an excellent ingredient because of its high natural vitamin C content, but it is difficult to stabilize and has hardly been studied as a cosmetic material. Therefore, this study developed a mixed liposome preparation for stabilizing acerola extract. As a safety test, the skin irritation test was evaluated by BCOP assay and HET-CAM assay. We evaluated the inhibition of tyrosinase activity, the whitening effect of melanin production, and the wrinkle effect of prochloragentype-I C-peptide production, and confirmed the possibility of functional cosmetics. In addition, a cream of liposomes containing acerola extract mixture was developed to evaluate the clinical studies of skin wrinkles and whitening. BCOP assay, HET-CAM assay and human skin primary irritation test results of liposomes containing acerola extract mixture showed no irritation and were safe from skin and eye. The result of tyrosinase activity by 75.8% at 1,000 ㎍/mL. As a result of the melanogenesis inhibition test, liposome with acerola extract showed the melanin content by 46.2% at 1,000 ㎍/mL that does not effect the viability of the B16F10 cell line. The result of collagen production test using ELISA kit, liposomes containing acerola extract mixture showed collagen synthesis ability by 152.1% at 1,000 ㎍/mL that does not affect the viability of the HS68 cell line. But it did not showed any inhibition of collagenase (MMP-1) activity at all concentrations in the MMP-1 activity inhibition test in the HS68 cell line. We performed clinical studies for the whitening and skin-wrinkle activity of cream containing acerola extract mixes liposome, was showed that the melanin contents and wrinkle was statistically significant reduction. These results suggest that liposomes containing acerola extract mixture have safe natural material, and skin wrinkle, whitening effects allowing their application in cosmetics as a natural product.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.48 no.4
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• pp.365-372
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• 2022

Cellobiose is a dissacharide constituted by two glucose units joined by a β-('1,4') glycosidic bond that is produced by the decomposition of cellulose. This product exists naturally in plants and has been utilized in different industries as a food sweetener, and as a cosmetic and pharmaceutical material. In this study, the potential of cellobiose as a whitening cosmetic product was evaluated by analyzing autophagy induction and the inhibition of melanin production. A cytotoxicity test conducted in the human melanin-producing cell line MNT-1 with increasing concentrations of cellobiose revealed that this compound did not cause cytotoxicity at 20 mg/mL or less. Based on this, autophagy was firstly evaluated by immunostaining with the autophagy marker microtubule-associated protein 1 light chain 3 (LC3) after treatment with 20 mg/mL of cellobiose. The subsequent confocal microscopy analysis revealed an increase in LC3 puncta, indicating induction of autophagy. In addition, autophagy was further confirmed by western blot analysis, which demonstrated that cellobiose converted LC3-I to LC3- ∏ in a concentration- and time-dependent manners. An analysis of melanin contents after cellobiose treatment at a concentration of 20 mg/mL during 7 days revealed that melanin production was reduced by more than 50%. Additionally, the expression levels of melanogenesis-related proteins TYR and TYRP1 were markedly decreased after cellobiose treatment. Based on these studies, a cosmetic cream formulation containing cellobiose was prepared and the change in formulation was tested for 4 weeks, and it was confirmed that the appearance changed to liquid form at high temperature, but the pH did not change. In conclusion, the present research demonstrated that cellobiose activates autophagy and inhibits melanin production, and showed the potential of this product as a material for whitening cosmetics.