• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.119-127
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• 2011

This purpose of this study was to analyze the formation and look into design characteristics by types and method of expression on multifunctional eco-friendly fashion design. Total 191 pieces of multifunctional fashion design photographs were collected through fashion collection from 2000 S/S to S/S 2010 F/W on the website. First, the characteristics of multifunctional eco-friendly fashion design used squared silhouette, achromatic colors, plain patterns for pollution control, hard materials to prolong the product, it was clear that details were minimized to save resources. Second, there were 5 changeable types of multifunctional eco-friendly fashion design which were changes in changing forms, material changes, item changes, detail changes and complex changes. Third, as the result of changeable types by method of expression, the changing forms were expressed by removable, material changes by reversible, detail changes by open and close and item changes by shifting. Forth, the formative properties of multifunctional eco-friendly fashion design had flexibility, multifunction, versatility and amusing. Therefore, this study will be helpful in planning multifunctional eco-friendly fashion design according to the kind of formative characteristics, changeable types, method of expression and provide concrete fundamental materials for the expert in clothing on the base of objective data through statistical analysis.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2012.03a
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• pp.62-62
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• 2012

지구온난화 및 환경오염의 영향으로 선진국을 중심으로한 환경규제가 심해지면서, 홈 텍스타일 분야에서는 세계 패션 트렌드 및 소비자 선호에 부응한 친환경 섬유소재 개발, 웰빙 시대에 적합한 기능성 및 고감성 제품개발을 통한 차별화가 요구되고 있다. 최근의 섬유산업의 동향도 인체에 무해한 천연적인 섬유소재에 많은 관심이 증대됨에 따라 개인의 건강 뿐만 아니라 환경을 생각하는 생활패턴인 친환경섬유의 개발이 새로운 트렌드로 떠오르고 있는 실정이다. 헴프는 일년생 식물로서 학명은 Cannabis sativa L.이다. 헴프섬유의 장점으로 내구성 및 내수성, 항균성 등이 우수한 것으로 보고되고 있으나 양질의 원료 확보, 세섬도 추출 기술 및 combing 기술 등의 부족으로 100% 헴프 세 번수 방적사의 제조가 어려워 주로 면섬유와의 혼합소재로 제조되어 왔다. 최근 들어, 친환경 소재로서 박테리아 성장 억제 기능을 가진 재생섬유인 Tencel 소재를 이용하여 stiff한 Hemp의 성질에 유연성을 추가하여 촉감을 개선함과 동시에, Tencel과 Hemp를 혼용함으로써 soft touch부터 harsh touch까지 혼용율에 의한 다양한 감성을 느끼게 함으로써 용도의 다양화 추구가 시도되어 왔다. Hemp의 거친 느낌을 완화시키고 Tencel의 박테리아 억제 기능과 Hemp의 항균기능, 방충, 탈취기능이 상호 보완되어 친환경적이고 위생적인 다용도 홈 인테리어 및 가구용 직물 등의 제품으로 Hemp/Tencel 복합사가 많이 사용되고 있다. 본 연구는 Hemp와 Tencel의 혼용율의 변화에 따른 복합사의 물리적 특성을 확인하기 위하여 천연복합 태번수 방적사 최적 사설계 이론을 적용하여 Hemp 섬유 혼용율에 따른 사의 물성분석을 함으로써 Hemp/Tencel 방적사 최적 공정 조건을 결정하기 위한 사설계 이론 결과와 실험결과를 비교 분석하고자 한다. 최적 천연 Hemp복합방적사 사설계의 이론화 및 사 물성 DB화 그리고 태번수 Hemp사의 물성분석 및 이들을 DB화 함으로써 가구용 직물로 많이 사용되는 친환경 Hemp 소재사의 방적성 향상을 꾀하고자 한다. 이를 위해서 제조한 방적사의 Dry heat shrinkage와 Wet heat shrinkage를 측정하여 확인하였고 인장시험기를 이용하여 Tenacity, Initial Modulus, breaking strain을 측정 분석하였다. 방적사의 표면 특성은 영상 현미경 시스템을 사용하여 ${\times}40$ 배율로 측정하여 확인하였다.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.107-119
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• 2011

The rate of disposable diaper usage has been increased continuously from convenience of disposable diapers and increment of women's entry in workforce. However, a new perspective toward disposable diapers has been come to the fore in various sides like babies' health, environment, and cost. Furthermore, cloth diaper has started to attract more attention. Since parents and grandparents pay more attention to children as birth rate dropped, they tend to purchase expensive goods if the quality or design of the goods is worthy enough. Therefore, this study has the purpose in presenting the basic data for developing functional and pleasant cloth diaper with analyzing the consuming patterns (convergence in nature, health and technology) and cloth diaper characteristics. The research on the actual condition about children cloth diapers and environmental-friendly materials is as follows. Firstly, as a result of analyzing pros and cons about disposable diapers and cloth diapers, the cloth diapers are estimated to have better health, environment, and cost factors than disposable diapers, only excluding convenience. Secondly, as a result of examining patent registered diapers, the disposable diapers have been improved from shape-centered development to well-being material development, and the cloth diapers have mainly developed functional shape-centered. Thirdly, as a result of analyzing children's goods made with environmental-friendly materials, the children's clothes already use organics and natural resources like beans, bamboo trees, ginkgo, and chitosan. Recently, the diaper industry starts to pay attention to environmental-friendly because the skin ailment from environmental pollution has been an issue. To conclude, children's cloth diaper should be appropriate to their body shape and optimized to have convenient form and functional materials. If environmental-friendly materials are used, quality, functionality, various demands from customers and vitalization of goods industry will be all satisfied.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.29-45
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is for providing not only the latest design technique trend for zero waste fashion, but information about creative fashion design education through eco-fashion industry trend in globally and domestic which is focusing on eco-fashion labelling. The research were processed with literature related eco, sustainable, green fashion books, former articles, newspapers, and web sites. The results as follows; The certification about eco-fashion product is moving to 'Life Cycle Assessment' from focused on primary process like material, finishing, dyeing. Especially simplicity of process means reducing the wastes. And fabric wastage for adult outwear was estimated 15% percent of total fabric used in general design studios. Three cases for Zero waste fashion were as follows; First, Jigsaw puzzle by Timo Rissane and Mark Liu were different zero waste methods, but the result was same. Rissene's method was based on traditional cutting like 'cut and sew' but traditional cutting can lead to design that have an abundance of fabric and drape. Jigsaw of Rissene was approached with description a pattern-cutting technique in which all piece interlock with each other generating no waste from design production. Another Jigsaw by Liu was related with innovative textile design. DTP makes the possibilities for zero waste garment production almost endless. The dress intricately cut from 10 pieces, wastes none of the fabric required to make it. Second, Subtraction Cutting by Julian Roberts provides unexpected fluid, organic forms and zero waste fabric. Utilizing Roberts plug(tunnel) technique enables any part of the garment that is removed for fit or aesthetics to be reincorporated into the design of garment. Third was 'Bio Couture' by Suzanne Lee. She has created garments from cellulose bacteria which grow in a bathtub using only green methods addressing in such as way ecological issues and exploring the future of fashion design in conjunction with technology.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.108-125
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to analyze the technical pattern and product characteristics of outdoor sportswear marketed in Northern Europe and North America. Based on the results of this study, we wanted to provide practical data on the characteristics of products with high functionality and fashionability for developing outdoor sportswear. Therefore, in this study, technical pattern, textiles, details, sewing, compatibility with wearable devices, and certification of 33 marketed outdoor sportswear were analyzed. After analyzing various technical patterns, the bent arm pattern using two-piece panel and a raised arm pattern connecting the side seam with the inner seam of the sleeve appeared on the top. Additionally, the patterns of bent legs with darts in the knee, cutting the posterior, and inserting the gusset in the crotch were mainly seen in the bottoms. By analyzing product characteristics, ergonomic pattern design for easy activity and functional materials was used for climate adaptation in extreme outdoor wear. On the other hand, for outdoor wear meant for trekking or hiking, details, such as portability and easy storage, were considered. Eco-friendly materials were used while ensuring light weight and comfort. Furthermore, for convenience of life, safety, and health, wearable devices were integrated into the outdoor sportswear. Eco-friendly green certification of outdoor products was obtained for the labor environment and production process, and relevant information was provided to consumers.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.73-86
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• 2024

Addressing the environmental impact of textile waste, this study explores upcycling as a sustainable fashion solution, particularly focusing on the upcycling of discarded fishing nets, which are a significant source of marine pollution. In 2018, South Korea alone produced 193.3 tons of clothing waste, refelcting a global trend, where textile waste exceedsed 92 million tons. The research methodology involved a literature review and case studies on upcycled fashion, focusing on discarded fishing nets. Designs for three outfits targeting women in their twenties were proposed and a survey was carried out to assess the their perception of upcycled fashion and the design's appeal and practicality. Under the theme, 'Marine Spirit,' the study aimed to raise awareness of marine pollution, drawing inspiration from the ocean's vibrant life. The designs diverge from the monotonous 'Casual Glam' trend, and incorporate vivid colors and asymmetrical structures for visual appeal. The practical application of fishing nets varied across the pieces, serving as fillers in transparent PVC padded coats and decorative elements in skirts and puff dresses. The distinctive properties of fishing nets provide a unique aesthetic, which resonated well with the target audience. Despite challenges in adopting eco-friendly dyeing methods and assessing mass production feasibility, the study underscores the need for continued research in sustainable textile processing. The study reaffirms the importance of sustainable fashion, highlighting the creative potential of fishing nets as a material.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.379-386
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• 2024

The purpose of this study was to pay attention to the increase in the frequency of expression of butterflies and insects, whose decrease in the number of individuals is symbolized as a measure of environmental pollution, among the various motifs of nature as we go through the COVID-19, when we realized the importance of nature. The scope of this study was limited to fashion collection fashion show photos and interview articles of online for fashion collections from 2019 to 2023. As a result of the study, 185 butterfly motivation fashion design appeared, and digital printing techniques were the most used as a type of plane expression method. Along with this, techniques such as quilting, embroidery, and beading have appeared a lot as techniques to express the planar motif of butterflies. As for the three-dimensional expression types, 3D printing, laser cutting, corsage techniques, and draping techniques showed similar proportion. It can be seen that the expressed butterfly motif had more realistic description the shape of the butterfly as it was than abstract expressions. In conclusion, it can be seen that the butterfly motif fashion design over the past five years contains a stronger message about the environment than the butterfly motif fashion in the past. It was confirmed that it is a motif with a great symbolic meaning that can convey an eco-friendly message beyond just the morphological beauty and colorful design elements of the butterfly.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.17-31
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• 2022

The purpose of this research is to suggest diverse directions for eco-friendly knit designing through analyzing the characteristics of Stella McCartney's knit designs. The first stage of the research was to explore the characteristics of eco-friendly fashion design based on literature review. The next stage was to categorize the characteristics of eco-friendly design found in Stella McCartney' knit fashion based on the precedent analysis. The data collected showed 274 examples from 40 Stella McCartney collections, including Spring, Resort, Pre-Fall, and Fall Ready-to-wear collections between 2013 and 2022. All information was collected using www.vogue.com. As a result, the characteristics of Stella McCartney's knit design were classified into four directopms: 1) Perpetual Naturalism, 2) Cultural Complexity, 3) Practical Functionality, and 4) Subcultural Reproducibility. The first characteristic, 'Perpetual Naturalism' values the continuous symbiosis between animals and human beings, thereby protecting global environmental value. Stella McCartney's knit design continuously showed a longing for nature's beauty through fashion design, which allowed people to enjoy the meaning of symbiosis between human beings and animals. Second, 'Cultural Complexity' is the characteristic that appears in Stella McCartney's knit fashion design when collaborating with various artists and/or mixing traditional knit motives inspired by traditional cultures and retro moods. Third, 'Practical Functionality' is the design characterisitic that allows items to be worn for a long time as it is comfortable, simple, and practical. Stella McCartney's knit designs pursue easy-to-wear designs that are comfortable and have practical designs with simple details. Lastly, 'Subcultural Reproducibility' showed in Stella McCartney's knit designs reflect Hippie culture, which pursued a rejection of conventional values, and promoted sustainable energy. This culture peaked in the 1960s and 1970s, when 'Beatles' were mainly working. Additionally, retro styled knit designs inspired by other various music genres from the 1980s and 1990s appeared in this category as well.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.251-264
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• 2024

This study identified the structural impact relationships, mediated by information reliability and brand authenticity, of different types of environmental messages from the perspective of luxury fashion brands, leading to formation of brand attitudes. Additionally, the study investigated how the impact of message sidedness on the formation of information reliability and brand authenticity varies according to consumers' regulatory focus tendencies. Data were collected through online surveys targeting individuals from Generation MZ, utilizing a professional research firm. A total of 300 respondents (150 for one-sided scenarios and 150 for two-sided scenarios) were selected. The collected data were validated using SPSS and AMOS. The following results were obtained. First, message sidedness influenced information reliability and brand authenticity, both of which demonstrated positive effects on brand attitude as mediating factors. However, message sidedness did not directly affect brand attitude. Second, consumers with both promotion and prevention focus tendencies perceived higher information reliability in two-sided message scenarios, and the perception difference in information reliability based on message sidedness was more pronounced among consumers with a prevention focus. Additionally, consumers with a prevention focus did not show a significant difference in brand authenticity between one- and two-sided message scenarios, while consumers with a promotion focus demonstrated an increase in brand authenticity in two-sided message scenarios compared to one-sided ones.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.384-397
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to analyze the eco-friendly design characteristics of contemporary children's collections. Photos from FirstviewKorea were utilized for analysis; 29 brands were selected that included children's clothing collections featuring eco-friendly characteristics from 2007 to 2018. The results are as follows. First, naturalness was the most frequent characteristic of environmentally friendly children's collections. It was not conveyed in an eccentric way in any season, showed a relatively uniform distribution, and was seen in various ways, including printed on the fabric and expressed in $appliqu\acute{e}s$ and embroidery. Second, handcrafted features frequently changed according to seasonal trends. Various methods such as beading, embroidery, applique, sewing techniques, and handbags were used, which enhanced manual workability, discrimination from other designs. Third, traditionality is divided into the characteristics of ethnicity and revivalism. National traditions were expressed in the clothing and reflected the current generation while connecting to the past. Fourth, simplicity appeared in classic designs such as simple silhouettes, sparse decoration, natural colors, and comfortable dress length that is not tight on the body. Simplicity was not a frequent feature due to the characteristics of the children's clothing collections. Fifth, playfulness functioned to enhance the children's clothing's wear frequency. Although it was the least frequent of all the characteristics, it seemed to increase the design fun and the clothing's value by fusing with other characteristics such as handcraftedness and naturalness.