• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.67-77
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• 2003

Subjective sensorial experiment was executed with 43 subjects to find the relationships between the sensibility of jacket styles and the handle of wool fabrics. The handle and sensibility of wool fabrics were significantly different according to the wool types, and the handle was defined as two axis of Wild/Exquisite vs. Thin/Thick. The sensibility of jacket styles was different by the types of jacket styles, and the jackets were displayed in the 2D of Masculine/Feminine vs. Country/urban according to the factor analysis using 8 sensibility words. The best-appropriate jacket styles for each wool fabrics were converged into several jacket styles, and it was found that the wool fabrics were divided as for all-purpose or for specific-end usage. For the results of correspondence analysis of the matrix for the best-appropriate jacket style for each wool fabric, the jacket styles and wool fabrics together were grouped as 4: Striking and Yang, Striking and Yin, Plain and Yang, Plain and Yin.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.12 s.138
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• pp.1605-1616
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to investigate the commonly accepted ease for a custom-fit business jacket, which provides all customers with the optimum fit regarding their individual body sizes, shapes as well as their personal preference, and also to characterize the factors which affects the ease amount, thereby, supply the reference data to manufacturers of the apparel industry. This study consisted of anthropometric measurements as well as sensory evaluations, and analysed ease amount by body sizes, ages, fit satisfaction, self-perception of body, and the prefered fit levels. There were 272 subjects for anthropometric measurement of which 128 subjects were applied for ease analysis and sensory evaluation. The subjects were males of 20 to 65 years old. The ease at chest was the most sensitive to body sizes and shapes, while waist and hip were easily modified to accommodate the silhouette of the jacket. The main dimensions affecting individual perceptions of fit and ease were the characteristics of body shape, in particular, girth, followed by age. Customers paided most attention to the shoulder fit while customers who preferred a more fitted line showed more concern with ease for jacket fit. It was clearly observable in case of waist fit preference. In addition, the preferred fit at chest, waist and hip would be changed by the perception of ons's hip size.