• Title/Summary/Keyword: 천연염색 직물

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Photo-crosslinking of PLA Fabrics by UV Irradiation (자외선 조사에 의한 PLA 직물의 광가교)

  • Yun, Deuk-Won;Jang, Jin-Ho
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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    • 2011.03a
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    • pp.51-51
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    • 2011
  • PLA(Poly(lactic acid))는 옥수수, 사탕수수와 같은 천연재료에서 얻어진 젖산(lactic acid or lactide)을 원료로 하여 합성한 생분해성 고분자로서 석유자원의 고갈과 환경오염에 대한 관심이 고조됨에 따라 합성고분자를 대체할 재료로 각광받고 있다. 일반적인 PLA의 장점으로 투명성, 굽힘강성, 방수성, 가열밀봉성 등이 있으며, 단점으로는 열안정성, 내구성, 충격 강도 등이 있다. PLA를 섬유로 사용될 경우 농림 토목용 생분해성 소재 뿐 아니라 실크의 광택과 뛰어난 드레이프성, 감촉을 갖는 장점이 있다. 또한 수분을 신속하게 흡수하여 발산시키는 특성을 가지고 있고, 낮은 연소열과 가스량, 자기 소화성 등의 방염 특성 등을 지녀 의류 인테리어 소재로 매력적인 특성을 가지고 있다. PLA는 바이오고분자 중 비교적 높은 용융온도를 가지고 있지만 특히 염색 및 가공조건 등 고온 처리에 의해 기계적 강도가 저하되는 단점이 있어 내열성 및 기계적 강도의 향상이 필수적이다. 내열성 및 기계적 강도 향상을 위한 가장 손쉬운 방법은 고분자 사슬을 가교시키는 것으로서 열처리 또는 감마선, 전자선, 자외선 조사를 이용할 수 있는데 열에 의한 가교는 균일한 열전달과 고온이 필요하며 감마선 및 전자선 조사는 설비의 고비용과 방사성 노출 위험으로 인해 비친환경적이다. 따라서 다루기 쉽고 비용이 적게 들고 친환경적인 장점을 가진 자외선 조사법을 이용한 PLA의 광가교의 연구가 필요하다. 본 연구의 목적은 PLA 직물의 열안정성과 기계적 특성을 향상시키기 위해 광개시제와 자외선 조사를 이용하여 PLA 직물의 광가교를 수행하였다.

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A Study on Development Processing of Spinning Ramie Jacquard Textile Design Using EAT Program (EAT 프로그램을 이용한 방적모시직물 디자인 개발)

  • Jeong, Go-Eun;U, Hyo-Jeong;Lee, Jeong-Sun
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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    • 2009.05a
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    • pp.223-226
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    • 2009
  • 최근 의생활에 있어서 가장 큰 변화는 쾌적성의 추구와 건강을 중심으로 한 기능성 소재에 대한 소비자들의 욕구가 증대된다는 것이다. 천연 섬유 중 모시는 통기성이 우수하고 감촉이 깔깔하여 고온 다습한 우리나라의 여름철 옷감으로 좋으므로 현대 의생활로의 도입이 요구되고 있다. 그동안 모시직물은 심미적인 욕구에도 잘 맞아 한국인의 정서에 좋은 이미지로 자리 잡고 있지만 수공예적 생산방식을 그대로 답습하고 있어 전통모시직물로는 많이 이용이 되어왔으나 현대 방적모시직물을 이용한 새로운 직물디자인 개발은 이루어지기 어려운 실정이었다. 그러나 최근 방적모시섬유에 대한 연구가 활발하게 진행되기 시작하면서 현대 방적모시직물의 생산이 가능하게 되었다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 원사의 특성과 제조공정 특성에 의해 미세한 감성촉감의 차이를 유발하기 좋은 폴리에스터를 경사로하고 방적모시와 라이오셀을 위사로 하여 현대 모시직물의 개발을 시도하였다. 모시의 소비를 증가시키고 현대인의 감성에 맞게 심미성을 향상시킬 수 있도록 직물문양을 디자인하였다. 직물의 복잡한 문양을 컴퓨터로 디자인하고 자동으로 제직이 가능하게 하는 시스템인 EAT 프로그램을 이용하여 자카드 직물 특유의 고급스러움을 살리며 공정과정에서의 실의 밀림 등을 고려하며 조직을 설계하였다. 설계된 직물은 제직 후 염색 가공하여 쿠션, 방석, 테이블 러너 등의 시제품으로 제작하여 고부가가치 모시제품의 개발가능성을 살펴보았다.

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Damage Characteristics of Korean Traditional Textiles by Nitrogen Dioxide (NO2) Concentrations (이산화질소(NO2) 농도에 따른 전통직물의 손상 특성)

  • Kim, Myoung Nam;Lim, Bo A;Kim, Seojin;Lee, Sun Myung
    • Journal of Conservation Science
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    • v.29 no.3
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    • pp.197-207
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    • 2013
  • The gas acceleration test was conducted to identify the deterioration of Korean traditional textiles caused by $NO_2$. Total 20 specimens were prepared using 4 different materials (silk, cotton, ramie, hemp) after dyeing with 5 colors (undyed, red, yellow, blue, black). The specimens were exposed to 0.01, 0.1, 1, 10, 100, and 1000 ppm $NO_2$ gas in the test chamber at $20^{\circ}C$, 50% RH for 1 day. Optical, chemical, and physical evaluation was carried out after the exposure. In the case of Korean traditional textile, color difference increased at 1 ppm/day, $NO_3{^-}$ concentration, carbonyl and C-$NO_2$ functional group increased while pH decreased at 10 ppm/day and tensile strength weakened at 100 ppm/day. when it comes to undyed textile, alteration of color difference on silk and hemp cloth, $NO_3{^-}$ concentration and tensile strength on hemp cloth was remarkable. In addition, color difference on blue and yellow textile, $NO_3{^-}$ concentration increase of yellow textile and tensile strength decrease of hemp cloth & ramie cloth were significant. The results suggest that critical $NO_2$ concentration of optical, chemical, and physical damage on Korean traditional textiles are 1ppm/day, 10 ppm/day, 100 ppm/day respectively.

Preparation of cotton fabri coated with Zinc alginate (Zinc alginate가 피복된 면 직물의 특성)

  • Lee, Ju-Hyun;Kim, Jong-Hwan;Lee, Woo-Seung;Son, Tae-Won
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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    • 2012.03a
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    • pp.66-66
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    • 2012
  • 최근 환경파괴, 병원성 세균감염 등 각종질병과 환경문제로 인한 피부염 등 우리 몸을 보호하기 위하여 친환경 소재의 용품들이 소비자들의 이목을 끌고 있다. 또한, 부가가치를 높이고 특수한 기능성을 나타내는 기능성 섬유에 대한 관심이 증가하고 있으며 이러한 기능성 섬유들 중에서 항균성을 가지는 천연섬유를 주제로 연구를 진행하고 있다. 대표적인 천연섬유인 면 직물에 Zinc alginate로 코팅시켜 부가적인 기능들을 부여시키는 방법으로 실험을 진행하였다. 미처리 면직물과 Zinc alginate가 코팅 된 면직물을 서로 비교하여 분석하였다. 증류수와 생리식염수로 흡습량과 흡습시간을 동시에 측정 후 비교하였으며 접촉각은 Contact angle system OCA20을 이용하여 측정하였다. Zinc alginate의 흡착량은 EDS(EX-250, HORIBA, Japan)를 이용하여 확인하였다. 표면과 단면의 형태는 주사전자현미경(S-4100, Hitachi Co., Japan)으로 x300, x500 배율로 측정하였다.

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The Development and Its Application of Teaching and Learning Plan for Making Class of Natural Dyeing and Jogakbo (천연염색과 조각보 만들기 수업을 위한 교수-학습 지도안 개발 및 적용)

  • Park, Hee-Soon;Lee, Hye-Ja
    • Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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    • v.20 no.2
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    • pp.61-73
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this study was to improve interest and attitude of student's Technology-Home Economics Curriculum and to recognize the change of recognition on Traditional image through Natural Dyeing and Jogakbo making on the unit of making living goods with fabrics in Technology-Home Economics curriculum on first year high school. The abridged result of study following this: First, in Natural Dyeing and Jogakbo making, teaching-learning plan applying LT cooperative studying and learning materials have been developed. Second, after applying the developed lesson plan, the result showed that the change in learning interest and attitude about Technology-Home Economics curriculum was positively improved. After executing the class on Natural Dyeing and Jogakbo making, the interest and concern about tradition were very positively upgraded through the result analyzing the change of recognition on traditional image. Through these results, The Teaching-learning plan and learning materials would show high possibility of application as educational contents about traditional culture in the field of education. After executing the class on making of Natural dyeing and Jogakbo, the learning interest degree and attitude was very positively upgraded, and the recognition on traditional image had been changed to the active and positive recognition.

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Effect of Colorimetric Characteristics and Tone Combination on Color Emotion Factors of Naturally Dyed Color Combination Fabrics -Focus on Yellowish and Reddish Fabrics- (천연염색 배색직물의 색채 특성과 톤 조합이 색채감성요인에 미치는 영향 -황색과 적색계열을 중심으로-)

  • Lee, An Rye;Sarmandakh, Badmaanyambuu;Kang, Eun Young;Yi, Eunjou
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.36 no.10
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    • pp.1028-1039
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    • 2012
  • This study identified color emotion factors of naturally dyed two-color combination fabrics focused on yellowish and reddish shades to examine the relationship between color emotion factors and physical colorimetric variables (as well as tone combination groups) to provide prediction models for color emotion factors of naturally dyed fabrics with a two-color combination. Each of eight different stimuli were prepared by paring two pieces of silk fabrics colored in red and yellow by natural dyeing respectively; in addition, their color emotion descriptors were evaluated by human subjects using semantic deferential scales. 'Joyful', 'Natural', 'Classical', and 'Soft' were extracted as color emotion factors for the naturally dyed yellowish-reddish combination fabrics. They were found to be significantly affected by physical colorimetric variables such as CIE $C^*$ and $L^*$ and tone combination groups. Finally, prediction models for all color emotion factors were established using physical colorimetric variables and tone combination groups that led to the conclusion that they could be applicable to design a color combination for naturally dyed fashion fabrics.

Colorimetric Properties, Color Sensibility and Color Preferences for Mulberry/Cotton Blended Fabrics Dyed with Natural Indigo (쪽으로 천연염색된 닥/면섬유 혼방직물의 색채특성과 색채감성 및 색채선호도)

  • Shin, Judong;Choi, Jongmyoung
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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    • v.22 no.2
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    • pp.365-374
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    • 2013
  • The purposes of this study were to evaluate the color characteristics and color sensibility of mulberry/cotton blended fabrics dyed with indigo, the natural dye, and analyze effects of them on color preferences. The values of CIE $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$ $C^*$, h were calculated for the color characteristics of indigo-dyed fabrics, and their hue, value, and chroma were calculated according to the Munsell color system. Fifty male and female college students evaluated the color sensibility of nine types fabrics dyed with indigo on a seven-point scale. The data were analyzed by descriptive statistics, factor analysis, Kruscal-Wallis test, correlation analysis, and regression analysis. The mulberry/cotton blended fabrics naturally dyed with indigo showed the characteristics of PB color tones, low value, and low chroma. The color sensibilities of fabrics dyed with indigo were classified into four factors: 'classic', 'sporty', 'elegant' and 'natural'. There were significant differences according to the fibers and the repeating times of dyeing in the color sensibility for the fabrics. Cotton fabrics were evaluated to be more classic, sporty, elegant, and natural than the mulberry/cotton blended fabrics, and the deeper the color, the more classic, sporty, and elegant the fabric was evaluated. The students preferred the indigo dyed fabrics which have more classic, sporty, and natural sensibility. There were significant relationships between the color sensibilities and colorimetric properties of the fabrics dyed with indigo. The color preferences of the dyed fabrics with indigo were found to be influenced by the 'classic', 'sporty', 'natural' of color sensibility.

Fashion Color Planning Using Dyeing with Jeju Natural Resources (제주 천연자원의 염색을 활용한 패션 색채기획)

  • Ahn, Su-min;Sarmandakh, Badmaanyambuu;Yi, Eunjou
    • Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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    • v.19 no.2
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    • pp.55-66
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    • 2016
  • This study was aimed to characterize the color of cotton fabric dyed with three different natural resources such as persimmon, citrus, and brown algae and to propose new trend color themes for fashion color planning for newborn and toddler wear. A variety of color shades by dyeing cotton fabric with persimmon, citrus, and brown algae respectively was obtained and each color was also determined if it could be matched with one of Pantone TPX considering authorized color trends for 2016 Spring/Summer. Finally a group of new trend color theme for 2016S/S newborn and toddler wear were proposed for naturally dyed cotton fabric. As results, the three natural dyeing resources gave color gamut with hue ranging from Purple Blue to Green Yellow and with tones including pale, light grayish, soft, grayish, and dull by their single and compound dyeing. A total of 23 colors matched to Pantone TPX were considered for the fashion color planning by natural dyeing. The selected natural colors were grouped as three different color ways and thereafter the color ways were differentiated in terms of representative color sensibility by using subjective evaluation. Finally three characterized color themes were proposed as 'Serenity', 'Juicy', and 'Fancy', each of which has tried to express differentiated feeling of each natural resources for dyeing, to follow up to global color trends, and to contribute to newborn and toddler wear's own requirements and marketability. These results suggest that natural dyeing colors could be applied into fashion color planning in current fashion industries in order to produce more sensible and emotional design of fashion goods using natural dyeing.

Textile Design of Tie Technique with Natural Dyeing (천연염색을 이용한 홀치기 염색기법의 직물디자인)

  • Jung, Jin-Soun
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.5 no.1
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    • pp.59-63
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    • 2003
  • This study aims at developing of textile design expressed not only Korean natural image but also modern sensibility using fabrics dyed by tie dyeing with various natural dyes. And it attempts to practicality of high value-added goods revived traditional beauty. With the aqueous extract of various natural dyes, i.e., indigo, amur cock tree, onion's peel, citrus peel, mugwort, gromwell, sappan wood silk fabrics dyed by tie dyeing. Also various color changes were examined by mordants, i.e., aluminium sulfate, cupric acetate mono hydrate, ferrous chloride. With these fabrics, I made works using the techniques of applique, mola, fabric's connection and weaving. I think the developed textile design gave expression to natural image of Korean nation.

Natural Dyeing Fabrics with Hypericum ascyron L. (물레나물(Hypericum ascyron L.)을 이용한 직물의 천연염색)

  • HwangBo Soo-Jeung;Jung Yang-Sook;Bae Do-Gyu
    • Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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    • v.47 no.2
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    • pp.78-87
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    • 2005
  • In this thesis, we took some stalks, flowers, and leaves of the Hypericum ascyron L. which are able to propagate as mass in our wild to extract the dyeing solution, and cotton and silk were dyed using them in many different conditions. Silk was dyed darker than cotton with increasing the pH density. Silk was dyed darkest among Hypericum ascyron if pH was neutral. We found there was not a big difference between silk and cotton in the given condition considering 'Y' values vs. dyeing temperature. However cotton was dyed darker in hypericum ascyron. There was a rapid decreasing of 'Y' values after one to two hours and almost all of dyeing was completed at these times. We found there was a dyeing acceleration at the higher dyeing density and the lower 'Y' value. If the density was low, dyeing attachment was reduced by dyeing ability via the density of liquid in this plants. Silk was affected higher by mordant dyes in this plants. Fe and Cu had no effect on Hypericum ascyron.