• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.29 no.5 s.142
• /
• pp.662-670
• /
• 2005

The purpose of this study was to find out the effect of color, tone, perceiver's gender on image perception of natural dyeing of cotton and mosi. The experimental materials developed for this study were a set of stimuli and response scale(The 7-point semantic). The stimuli was 20 fabrics manipulated with two kinds of fabrics(cotton, mosi), five colors(red, yellow, blue, green, purple) and two tone variations. The subjects were 412 adults in Daejeon and Kongju. The results were as follows: The perceived image of the stimulus material consisted of 4 dimensions (attractive, conspicuous, hand, weight) colors, tons, materials as well as perceiver's gender affected on some selected image dimensions color affected on the four image dimensions, tone affected on the conspicuous, hand and weight images, materials affected on the attractive and hand image and perceiver's gender affected on the weight image. Interaction effects existed among colors, tons and materials on the conspicuous image. In conclusion the results support gestalt theory in which the sum of the parts is bigger than the whole and design strategies for the Mosi fabrics should be developed on the basis of persuited design image as well as target consumers.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.14 no.4
• /
• pp.669-676
• /
• 2012

This study aims to compare the properties of natural dye stuffs, such as color, dyeability, fastness, and marketability, to analyze the differences noted by expert groups regarding the properties of the stuffs, and to make a positioning of the stuffs. A survey of experts in academia, business, and the art of natural dyeing was conducted, with an evaluation of 23 types of the stuff's properties. There is a correlation between the properties of the stuffs, and evaluating dye stuffs differs according to the group to which it belongs. X-axis relates to color and Y-axis refers to fastness in the positioning of the stuff. There are different relationships between properties according to their group. Color is significantly associated with marketability in art experts however, fastness is closely connected with marketability in business. The stuffs can be divided into five clusters. Cluster I includes indigo and persimmon, and is marked by excellent color, dyeability, fastness, and marketability, Cluster II contains safflower and sappan wood, which are excellent colors, yet suffer from low marketability on account of their medium to low fastness. Cluster III includes red, purple, and brown dyes, and onion and rhubarb, and has medium properties. Cluster IV is mugwort and yellow dyes, except onion and rhubarb, and features low properties. Cluster V is loess, featuring medium color and low fastness.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.10 no.4
• /
• pp.544-551
• /
• 2008

In this study, the colorants of Amur cork tree were extracted with boiling water. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics have been dyed with aqueous extract of Amur cork tree and their dyeabilities on the fabrics were studied. Additionally the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. Cotton fabrics were treated with a crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan to provide the cotton fabrics the dyeing properties of natural dye(Amur cork tree) by the chemical linking of chitosan to the cellulose structure. This process was applied by means of the conventional mercerizing process. The chitosan finishing and durable press finishing of the cotton fabrics occurred simultaneously in the mercerization bath. On the surface color change, the fabric of no-chitosan finished and no-mordanted has greenish yellow. The more crosslinked chitosan on cotton fabrics has the more turned down greenish on the surface color, as increasing the concentration of chitosan, greenish color turn down to the yellow close the 90o hue angle. In all sorts of fabrics, dyeability(K/S) is slightly affected by the number of manufacturing process and the concentration of chitosan. But only mercerized cotton fabric has higher dyeability (K/S) than mordant treated cotton fabrics. Wash fastness has little different results by each condition, but almost similar values. Light fastness was improved with chitosan treatment on cotton fabric.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.10 no.4
• /
• pp.560-565
• /
• 2008

Plantae of the natural material has been broadly used on cloth dyeing by it's specific properties such as eco-friendly and innoxious. However dyeing with natural material on synthetic fiber is nearly impossible due to poor affinity between natural material and synthetic fiber. The method which is binding with micro-capsulized natural material to cloth, used in this study, has low change on quality by external influence. Also this method has high ability in spray effect by broken capsule which comes to pressure and friction when the treated cloth was dressed. And this method is applicable widely from natural fiber to synthetic fiber. The purpose of this study is to develop the multi-functional synthetic material with micro-capsulized Ginseng on PET. Moreover, it was driven by comparison of colormetric properties and fastness between regular dip-dyeing method and binding with micro-capsulized material method. Dyeability showed a little bit low exhaustion but the PET treated by micro-capsule was more or less better than the dip dyed PET. Through the SEM(Scanning Electron Microscope) of PET treated by micro-capsule, it has good residence of capsules even after 5 or 10 times washing. Wash and light fastness were revealed some different grades by each condition but showed high level, in most and the micro-capsulized PET was more improver than regular dip dyed PET.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.10 no.2
• /
• pp.260-266
• /
• 2008

Recently there has been a growing interest in the use of natural dyes in textile applications. Natural dyes can exhibit better biodegradability and generally have a higher compatibility with the environment. In this study, the colorants of clove were extracted with boiling water. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics have been dyed with aqueous extract of clove and their dyeabilities on the fabrics were studied. Additionally the fastness to washing and light, and the effects on antimicrobial properties were also investigated. Cotton fabrics were treated with a crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan to provide the cotton fabrics the dyeing properties of natural dye(clove) by the chemical linking of chitosan to the cellulose structure. This process was applied by means of the conventional mercerizing process. The chitosan finishing and durable press finishing of the cotton fabrics occurred simultaneously in the mercerization bath. The dyeability(K/S), which was obtained by CCM observation, remarkablely became increased when the crosslinked chitosan concentration was higher. The hue value indicated reddish yellow with increasing the crosslinked chitosan concentration. And the color fastness to washing and light was the almost the same. The chitosan treated cotton fabrics showed very high activities with almost 100% reduction.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.10 no.6
• /
• pp.1045-1050
• /
• 2008

Developing of high technology, productivity of the fiber product has being rapidly increased and also various kinds of advanced treatment process lead consumer's needs to more high functional, clean and healthy goods. Moreover, increasing in the concern of eco-friendly material and processing, it has been getting popular that the dyeing method like as using natural dyes is more eco-friendly and natural-friendly treatment process. The method, used in this study, adhesion by binding with micro-capsulized natural material to fabric has low change in quality by external influence and high ability in spray effect by broken capsule which comes to pressure and friction when it dressed. Also it has wide application from natural fiber to synthetic fiber. The purpose of this study is development of multi-functional synthetic material with micro-capsulized Scutellaria baicalensis on PET. Moreover, it was driven by comparison of colormetric properties and fastness between regular dip-dyeing method and binding with micro-capsulized material method. Dye ability was arranged mostly low exhaustion but the PET treated by micro-capsule was more or less better than the dip-dyeing PET. Through the SEM(Scanning Electron Microscope) of PET treated by micro-capsule, it has good residence of capsules even after 5 or 10 times washing. Wash and light fastness was arranged some different grade by each condition but mostly high achievement and the micro-capsulized PET was more improved than regular dip-dyed PET.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.12 no.3
• /
• pp.381-388
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study was investigate the dyeing property on chitosan crosslinked cotton fabric with cochineal at variable conditions. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were manufactured by crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics dyed using cochineal were post-mordanted using Al, Fe and Cu. The dyeability(K/S) of chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were measured by computer color matching. Additionally the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. The dye-uptake of chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics increased with the dyeing time. The saturated dyeing time was about 20minutes at $60^{\circ}C$. The dyeability(K/S) was remarkably increased with increasing content of crosslinked chitosan because of having a amine group of chitosan. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were dyed yellowish red by non and Fe mordanting, blueish red by Al and Cu mordanting, respectively. The washing and light fastness were increased by mordanting, especially Cu and Fe mordanting.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.10 no.3
• /
• pp.377-384
• /
• 2008

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of natural dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of gallnut was studied. In this study, the colorants of gallnut were extracted with boiling water. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were been dyed with aqueous extract of gallnut and their dyeabilities on the fabrics were studied. Additionally, the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. Cotton fabrics were treated with a crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan to provide the cotton fabrics the dyeing properties of natural dye(gallnut) by the chemical linking of chitosan to the cellulose structure. The chitosan finishing and durable press finishing of the cotton fabrics carried out simultaneously in the mercerization bath. The dyeability(K/S), which was obtained by CCM observation, remarkably increased as the concentration of chitosan was high. Dye ability of gallnut showed higher toward chitosan treated cotton than controlled cotton fabric under condition at $60^{\circ}C$, for 20 min. The hue value indicated reddish yellow with increasing the crosslinked chitosan concentration. And the color fastness to washing and light was the almost the same.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.23 no.1
• /
• pp.64-73
• /
• 2019

The objective of this study was to investigate dyeing characteristics of silk, cotton and rayon fabrics using dyeing solution extracted from different varieties of tea. Comparative results of CIE Lab values of 360 pieces of dyed fabrics were studied to quantify the effects of dye concentrations (100%, 150%, and 200%) and mordants (Fe, Cu, Sn, Al). In addition, the color difference values (${\Delta}E$) of the dyed and mordanted fabrics were evaluated. The results of the study were as follows: First, among all of the 360 pieces of silk, cotton and rayon fabrics, the best dyeing effects was observed on silk fabrics. Second, the dyeing effect of the eight different types of tealeaves belonging to green tea, oolong tea, black tea, and dark tea tended to enhance as the degree of fermentation increased. Third, when the fabrics were mordanted with Fe, Cu, Sn, Al mordants, various colors such as brown, brownish red, brownish yellow, gray, and reddish brown were obtained.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.20 no.3
• /
• pp.323-330
• /
• 2018

This study aim is to provide new coloration method by laccase-catalyzation on natural phenolic dyeing process. In this study, silk was dyed with black tea, which is one of polyphenolic dye, extracted in distilled water. The dyed samples were catalyzed by laccase as the eco-friendly mordanting process. To optimize the conditions of laccase-catalyzed coloration, conditions were varied by different mordanting methods (one-bath, two-bath), temperature and treatment time. The dye affinity in terms of the value of K/S, $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$, and H, V, C was measured by Computer Color Matching System (CCM, CM-2600d, Spectra Magic NX, Korea). The effect of laccase-catalyzed coloration on washing fastness was evaluated and compared with the synthetic mordant (Al, Cu, and Fe). As the result of color analysis of dyed silk, the optimum conditions of laccase-catalyzed coloration were determined to post-mordanting by one-bath at $50^{\circ}C$ for 3 hours. Under the optimum laccase-catalyzed conditions, the dyed silk was shown the color of yellowish-red. After laccase-catalyzed coloration on the dyed silk, the improvement of washing fastness was obtained compared with mordanted silk by synthetic mordant (Al, Cu, and Fe). Therefore, the present study was demonstrated that the effective enzymatic mordanting method by laccase for phenolic natural dyeing with vivid color and good fastness.