• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.12
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• pp.1963-1970
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• 2008

Natural indigo dye in powder form was prepared by modifying traditional Niram method, using $Ca(OH)_2$ instead of baked oyster powder for precipitating indigo dye. The prepared dye was applied to dyeing Tencel fabrics to investigate the effect of experimental conditions for the optimization of dyeing process. The indigo dye powder contained 15.2%(w/w) of indigo content and 0.757%(w/w) of indirubin content on the basis of HPLC analysis. Maximum dye uptake was obtained at $60^{\circ}C$ for 20min. Almost saturated dye uptake was obtained at 2g/L of sodium hydrosulfite concentration up to 4g/L of indigo dye and then slowly increased for further increase of sodium hydrosulfite. Whereas at higher indigo dye concentration(8g/L) more than 3g/L of reducing agent concentration was required for obtaining the maximum dye uptake. At the same indigo dye and reducing agent concentration, K/S value of the sample dyed without sodium hydroxide(pH 5.75) was 15.19, much higher than one dyed in alkaline condition(K/S 5.76). There was no difference in colorfastness ratings among samples with different color strength. However, more fading was occurred for the sample with low color strength.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.838-843
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• 2015

In this study, a cotton knit was dyed with elm bark extract; subsequently, the dyed fabric was measured according to the types of mordants and the preprocessing cationizers used. Additionally, antibiosis against super bacteria was examined. The results follow. First, the color of the dyed cotton knit appeared reddish and yellowish for fabrics treated with non-mordants and mordants. When preprocessing with a cationizer was conducted, the dyeing properties were the best. Second. even when mordants were not used for dyeing, color fastness after washing, sweating, and rubbing was generally good Grade 4 and 5. Color fastness after exposure to sunlight was the best Grade 4 for fabric prepared with ferrous sulfate as the mordant. Third. as for antimicrobial properties, or resistance to super bacteria, the growth of bacteria was suppressed in a meaningful way for fabrics treated with non-mordants and mordants, compared to the control group fabric. The dyeing methods with the most powerful antimicrobial effects were dyeing after preprocessing with a cationizer and preparing fabric with copper sulfate as the mordant. The results stated above show that in case of dyeing with elm bark extract, preprocessing of the cotton knit with a cationizer and dying with copper mordant displayed high levels of antimicrobial properties that were useful for resisting super bacteria. Of these the dyeing properties were the best when preprocessing with a cationizer.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.10
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• pp.1028-1039
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• 2012

This study identified color emotion factors of naturally dyed two-color combination fabrics focused on yellowish and reddish shades to examine the relationship between color emotion factors and physical colorimetric variables (as well as tone combination groups) to provide prediction models for color emotion factors of naturally dyed fabrics with a two-color combination. Each of eight different stimuli were prepared by paring two pieces of silk fabrics colored in red and yellow by natural dyeing respectively; in addition, their color emotion descriptors were evaluated by human subjects using semantic deferential scales. 'Joyful', 'Natural', 'Classical', and 'Soft' were extracted as color emotion factors for the naturally dyed yellowish-reddish combination fabrics. They were found to be significantly affected by physical colorimetric variables such as CIE $C^*$ and $L^*$ and tone combination groups. Finally, prediction models for all color emotion factors were established using physical colorimetric variables and tone combination groups that led to the conclusion that they could be applicable to design a color combination for naturally dyed fashion fabrics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.311-319
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to investigate the dyeing property of gromwell on modified cotton fabric by chitosan. Modified cotton fabrics were manufactured by crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan. Gromwell colorants were extracted with methanol. Modified cotton fabrics dyed using gromwell were post-mordanted using Al, Fe and Cu. The dyeability (K/S) and color factors (L, a, b, ${\Delta}E$ and h) of modified cotton fabrics were measured by computer color matching. Additionally the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. The dye-uptake of modified cotton fabrics increased with the dyeing time. The saturated dyeing time was about 10minutes at $50^{\circ}C$. The dyeability (K/S) was remarkably increased with increasing content of chitosan because of having a amine group of chitosan. Modified cotton fabrics were dyed yellowish red by non and Fe mordanting, blueish red by Al and Cu mordanting, respectively. The washing fastness of non, Al, Fe and Cu mordant in the presence and absence of chitosan were increased $1{\rightarrow}2$, $3{\rightarrow}4$, $4{\rightarrow}4-5$ and $4{\rightarrow}4-5$ respectively. And light fastness of non, Al, Fe and Cu mordant in the presence and absence of chitosan were increased $1{\rightarrow}1-2$, $1{\rightarrow}1-2$, $1.2{\rightarrow}2.3$ and $1-2{\rightarrow}2$ respectively.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.515-522
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• 2017

The natural dyeing industry has been faced with increasing demands of constant needs for environmentally and body friendly clothing products among modern consumers. Natural dyeing has attracted attention as a next-generation technology in green textiles. Dyestuffs need to be diversified for technological development activation in order to meet the increasing demands for natural dyeing. This study extracted dyeing solutions from the leaves of the Rose of Sharon (the national flower of South Korea) and investigated its dyeing properties for the development of various natural dyestuffs. This study investigates the dyeability of silk fabrics with Rose of Sharon leaves extract. Optimal conditions for dyeing of silk fabrics with the extract of Rose of Sharon were $40^{\circ}C/80min$ and $90^{\circ}C/60min$ with 100% concentration. Looking at the results, it showed the best K/S value at pH3, Sn pre-mordanting and Fe post-mordanting. Color fastness to washing, dry cleaning, rubbing and perspiration was good at grade 4-5 or 4. However, light fastness was observed in grade 2. In aspect of functional property, it showed an excellent result of 90% deodorization rate. In addition, its proven functionalities (deodorant properties) will help to produce high value added environment-friendly products. Those findings demonstrate the possibilities of the Rose of Sharon as an environment-friendly dye.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.5
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• pp.775-783
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• 2010

This study examines the dyeability, light fastness, washing fastness, and the antibacterial activity of chitosan and nano silver composite non-woven fabrics dyed with an extracted solution from Chrysanthemum Indicum Linn. The results show that an increase in the chitosan and nano silver percentage resulted in an increase in the $a^*$ values and $b^*$ values; however, the $L^*$ values decreased in the undyed condition. ${\Delta}E$ values of chitosan and nano silver composite non-woven fabrics were higher than cotton 100% non-woven fabrics in the dyed condition with an extracted solution from Chrysanthemum Indicum Linn, and mordant treatments influenced the chrominance change. In the dyed condition with an extracted solution from Chrysanthemum Indicum Linn, an increase in the percentage of chitosan and nano silver resulted in an increase of the K/S values. The dyeability of chitosan and nano silver composite non-woven fabrics increased by mordant treatments. The light fastness and washing fastness of the mordanted non-woven fabrics were better than the non-mordanted. For the antibacterial activity, the bacterial reduction rate of chitosan and nano silver composite non-woven fabrics was 99.9% to Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.39-44
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• 1991

최근의 합성섬유에 있어서 고기능화는 이전의 천연섬유 지향에 탈피하여 독자의 기능을 가지는 새로운 섬유로의 전개로서 "신합섬"이 등장하였다. 소비자의 요구는 천연섬유의 기능성 요구하면서도 기볍고, 얇고, 부드럽고, drape성이 좋고 발색성이 양호한 섬유를 요구하고 있다. 더우기 각종 견뢰성이 우수하고 easy care하지 않으면 안된다. 이와 같은 요즘의 소비자요구의 고급화, 다양화를 생각할 때 wool에 고부가가치르 부여하는 일을 생각하지 않을 수 없다. 그래서 소비자에게 impact를 주고 message를 첨가한 제품을 제안하지 않으면 안될 것이다. 현재는 Price의 시대로부터 value 시대로의 변혁의 시기에 있다는 것을 인식하여야 한다. 양모섬유는 그 자신, 원래, 다종기능을 갖춘 섬유이며 건강유지에는 이상적이라고 말하는 의류소재라는 것은 잘 알고 있지만 그 지능을 강조하는 가공, 그 기능을 일부 희생시켜서라도 새로운 기능을 부가하는 가공, 종애의 가공기술을 개량, 혁신을 진행시켜 가는 것이 중요하다. 이들 가공기술면의 문제와 동시에 design 및 양모의 기능의 PR을 포함한 판매전략의 새로운 전개도 중요 괴제이다.도 중요 괴제이다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.469-476
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• 1998

The natural dyestuff(chestnut dye) was manufactured from chestnut hulls by boiling in 0.5 NaOH solution and powdering in freeze dryer. To investigate the dyeability and color fastness, cotton, wool, silk and nylon fabrics were dyed under several conditions using the manufactured chestnut dye. Dyeing operation was carried in acidic dyebath of pH 4-5 because the chestnut dye is anionic. Dyeabilities on wool, silk and nylon fabrics were good, especially nylon fabrics were dyed deeper than others. But dyeability on cotton fabrics was not good. All the dyed fabrics showed excellent color fastness to crocking. Color fastness to laupdering of them were moderate to good. Also light fastness of them were moderate to good except nylon. The light fastness of dyed nylon fabrics was as poor as grade 1. But they could be improved to grade 4 by aftertreatment with gallic acid.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.4
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• pp.590-597
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• 2013

This study examined the change in the dyeability of natural dyes on cotton fabrics by a PEI (polyethyleneimine) pretreatment instead of mordants. Cotton fabrics were treated with PEI and the changes in the dyeability were shown by measuring the amount of PEI on cotton fabrics. Samples treated with PEI were dyed with two natural polychromatic dyes with a different affinity to cotton fibers: Alizarin Red S and Curcumin. The changes in dyeability by three variables (time, temperature and concentration of dyes) on cotton fabrics were analyzed by the K/S value to define optimum dyeing conditions. Subsequently, the PEI treatment improved the dyeability of cotton fabrics with both dyes of low and high affinity to cotton fibers. Thus, PEI could be a suitable heavy metal mordant replacement.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.476-480
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• 2006

For the purpose of application to new natural dyestuff, the dyeability of Rubus coreanus Miquel extract was analyzed. It was dyed in silk fabric according to various dye concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and dyeing repetition. And the effects of mordanting conditions were examined as color differences and color fastnesses. The maximum absorbance of Rubus coreanus Miquel extract was at 521 nm. The dyeaffinities were increased gradually as were increased dye concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and dyeing repetition. The dyeaffinity was increased at pre-mordanted condition, and color difference was increased distinctly at post mordanted condition. The hues of mordanted silk fabrics were RP, P, PB, BG where as non mordanted silk fabric was R. Lightfastness was the best at pre-Sn mordanted and the worst at Post-Al mordanted. Washing and perspiration fastnesses were improved on pre and post-Sn mordanted.