• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권7호
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• pp.997-1007
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• 2005

The textile finishing methods utilizing chitosan have been mostly focused on the applications in the improvement of the dyeing of cotton fabrics, or the improvement of hand of the cotton or wool fabrics. On the other hand, it Is difficult to find the application examples in the synthetic fiber fabrics including polyester and nylon fabrics. The aim of this study is to improve the stiffness and the poor wash fastness of the fabrics treated only with chitosan. We tried to improve the softness by employing chitosan and polyurethane mixture solution and to prevent the detachment of the chitosan from the fabric. The treatment was applied to cotton, polyester, and nylon fabrics. The change of the properties of the treated fabrics were investigated. The optimum finishing condition was sought by changing the mixture ratio of the chitosan/PU(polyurethane) solutions. The adjusted ratios of the chitosan/PU solutions were 1 : 0, 1 : 0.25, 1 : 0.5, and 1 : 2 during the mixture solution preparation. Using the KES(Kawabata Evaluation System), the physical and mechanical properties of the finished fabric specimens were analyzed, and hand values of the specimens were calculated through the use of translational formulas. According to the chemical composition of the fibers, chitosan solution or chitosan/PU mixture exhibited wide range of coating effect. Since the chitosan acid solution has high polarity, the bonding force with the cotton fibers is high. By the appropriate addition of PU in the chitosan treatment of cotton, KOSHI and HARI values of the fabric improved. The air permeability of the chitosan/PU treated cotton fabric specimen improved, resulting in the highest value at the mixture of chitosan : PU=1:0.25.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.898-908
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• 1999

This paper was aimed to identify the hand and sensibility of silk woven fabrics for neckties to find their relationships to the hand and purchasing preferences and to make their image scale. 56 male and female students evaluated 20 specimens with semantic differential scale of 21 hand and 25 sensibility adjectives. Data were analyzed through factor analysis pearson correlational coefficient t-test using PC SAS package. the hand adjectives were grouped as 4 surface property thermal property flexibility and dryness. The sensibility adjectives were modern classic character and natural,. The flat fabrics with warm hand displayed 'modern' sensibility but those with col hand show 'classic' The rough fabrics with warm hand showed 'natural' but those with cool hand showed 'character' The fabrics rated as high hand preference and purchasing preference showed soft and flat hand occuring 'modern' and 'classic' sensibility.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제23권8호
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• pp.1139-1148
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• 1999

This paper discussed the assessment of hand of denim fabrics finished by enzymatic hydrolysis. The semantic differential scale established using the database collected from university students. Analyzing the subjective rating by common factor analysis with oblimin rotation five factors expressing the hand were induced. Factor one was the surface property related to the surface roughness or softness Factor two was the durability which was related to the compactness and bearing strength Factor three was the sense of weight which was related to the thickness and weight. The moisture related properties and the sense of shape recovery were the forth and fifth factors respectively. the evaluations on the surface property weight and moisture related properties were similar by men and women However the shape recovery and the durability were evaluated differently. Surface and weight related properties were important factors judging the hand of fabrics by both group.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.445-451
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• 2005

Up to the present, fabric finishing methods have been mainly employed for the application of chitosan. However, the coated chitosan acid salt is prone to be detached from the fabric during the laundering process. In order to improve the wash fastness, chitosan treated fabrics are being subjected to thermal curing. In this study, chemical crosslinking reaction by epichlorohydrin was introduced to improve the problem of the thermal curing. An improvement of the wash fastness is expected since the coated chitosan component on the fabric become insoluble by the introduction of the crosslinking. The demerit of the single chitosan treatment (inferior handle due to the excessive stiffness, etc.) was supplemented by the application of chitosan-polyurethane mixture solution. The mixture ratios were adjusted to 1 : 0, 1 : 0.25, 1 : 0.5, 1 : 1, and 1 : 2 for the chitosan/PU mixture. Physical and mechanical properties of the finished fabric specimens were measured using the Kawabata Evaluation System(KES), and hand values were calculated accordingly based on the translational formulas.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권8호
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• pp.883-891
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• 2003

In this study, a change of hand of fabrics dyed with persimmon juice was measured using Kawabata Evaluation System. Using various cotton fabrics, linen fabric and silk fabric used frequently for persimmon juice dyeing, we examined the changes of physical properties and hand according to persimmon juice dyeing and washing. The dynamic characteristics of hand were measured tensile, shear, bending, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight. Linearity of load-extention and tensile resilience were increased in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. Tensile energy decreased in cotton fabric 2(gauze), cotton fabric 3(muslin) and linen fabric. Shear stiffness and hysteresis of shear increased in most of fabrics. Bending rigidity of the bending property and hysteresis of bending, linearity of compression of the compression property, compression energy and compression resilience increased in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. Thickness and weight increased much in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. In the primary hand value, stiffness and anti-drape stiffness increased in all kind of fabrics after dyeing. The fullness and softness, crispness, scrooping feeling and flexibility with soft feeling decreased. As the stiffness after persimmons dyeing increased, it was suitable for clothes material of summer.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제23권2호
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• pp.317-328
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• 2014

In this study, differences of texture image and preference for men's suit fabrics according to mechanical properties, hand and fabric information were investigated. 55 subjects evaluated texture image and preference of 12 kinds of wool blended fabrics. For statistical analysis, t-test and pearson correlation coefficients were used. The results were as follows: Most of mechanical properties effected on texture images, and bending property and shearing property were effected on tactile preference and purchasing preference. For hand, objective hand values showed correlations with subjective texture images and preferences, but THV had almost no correlations. In sensory images according to presence of fabric information, fabrics were evaluated thinner, lighter, more pliable and smooth by cognition of wool blending ratio. For sensibility images, fabrics were evaluated more refined, intellectual, dignified and less practicable after recognize of wool blending ratio. In preferences, tactile preference was increased and purchasing preference was decreased after recognize fabric information. Therefore, significant differences of texture image and preference were observed according to presence of fabric information.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제31권4호
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• pp.312-322
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• 2019

The mechanical properties of developed fabrics which were composed of soluble yarns and stretch fibers were analyzed using the Kawabata Evaluation System. The following findings were obtained from this investigation. Fabrics woven with lightweight yarns can be easily deformed by external forces. But when the fabric were woven using thick lightweight yarns reduced the slippage between the fibers, which makes it difficult to deform due to external force, thereby maintaining a certain space from the human body. As for the weight of the fabric per unit thickness, it was found that fabrics were compose of lightweight spun yarn was lightweight relatively. Lightweight yarns were more flexible than regular yarns because of the reduced bending and shear properties that greatly affect the lattice pattern. smoother, more flexible, and the better the bend was recovered. As fabrics increased content of using of lightweight spun yarn was increased flexible and smooth, and bending recovery.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.537-543
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the comfort and fabric hand characteristics of selected lining fabrics made of acetate and polyester. The comfort of the linings was determined by human subjects wearing suit blazers constructed with different lining materials in an environmental chamber controlled at $30.6^{\circ}C$ air temperature and 50% relative humidity. The hand characteristics of the lining fabrics were determined by five trained panelists using standard fabric reference samples. The effect of lining fabrics on the subjects' thermal sensations was not statistically significant. But the subjects voted warmer when wearing the polyester surah lined blazer or the polyester taffeta blazer than wearing the acetate blazers. The results of the subjective comfort evaluation indicated that, in general, the subjects rated the acetate linings significantly less sticky, clammy, damp, and non-absorbent than the polyester linings. Acetate surah was rated a little higher than the other acetate fabrics on these comfort descriptors. The results of the subjective hand evaluation indicated that the lining fabrics rated low on the geometric and mechanical hand characteristics and rated moderate on noise. Acetate surah scored the highest on most of the hand characteristics, whereas, polyester taffeta scored the lowest.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.9-16
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• 1986

In this research, we tested the fertile physical and the sensory properties and the handle of the domestic polyester fabrics were treated with the varying alkaline concentrations and temperatures were tested. The tests were conducted to determine the effects of the alkaline treatment on the changes of the physical and the sensory chrateristics of the domestic polyester fabrics. The results were as follows; 1. When treated with the varying alkaline concentrations from $7.5\%$ to $15\%$ at temperatures from $60^{\circ}C$ to $90^{\circ}C$, the weight decreasing phenomena were shown to as a linear equations increase in that range. 2. As the weight loss increased, the softness and the smoothness were increased but the fullness and the tightness were decreased. 3. The positive correlations were found between the sensory and the physical properties, and the fullness ana the tightness, while a negative correlation was found between softness and the smoothness. 4. The regression equations obtained by the sensory chrateristics related with the physical chracteristics were as follows ; Softness: y=84.01-0.74x Fullness : y=0.06+0.78x Smoothness: y=88.67-0.82x Tightness : y= 0.34+0.79x

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권2호
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• pp.355-363
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate how the weave type, yarn twist fabric count and fiber content of the worsted fabrics affect the subjective sensation of the hand. Thirty worsted fabrics that were mainly used for the spring and fall ladies'suits at national brands were selected. Variables were such as four different kinds of weave types, plain, twill, satin and decorative; two levels of yarn twist, normal and high; various fabric counts; two different fiber contents, pure wool and Lycra contained. Image analysis and wavelet transform techniques were used to quantify the surface fiber, For surface characteristics, MIU, MMD and SMD were measured by KES-FB system. The Questionnaires with 23 adjectives were used for the subjective hand evaluation. Panels were So specialists of fashion or fabric designers and merchandizers. By Factor Analysis, six factors that represent the subjective hand were extracted. The relationship between these factors and structural variables were analyzed. Yarn twist was significantly related to the surface characteristics and resilience. Weave structure affected surface characteristics, volume/warm-cool feeling and resilience. Fabric counts showed relations with volume/warm-cool feeling and the fiber contents with volume/warm-cool feeling, resilience and elastic properties. MIU, MMD and SMD showed no relations with the surface fibers. Subjective sensation of surface characteristics was affected by SMD and surface fibers.