• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.321-328
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• 2012

A $SO_2$ gas acceleration test was carried out on four textile groups (silk, cotton, ramie cloth, hemp cloth) which were categoried in five categories by the dyeing materials (undyed, red, yellow, blue, black) and the relation between the concentration of $SO_2$ and deterioration rate was evaluated. The textiles were exposed to 0.01, 0.12, 1, 10, 100, 1000, and 5000 ppm of $SO_2$ for 24 hours and the optical, physical, and chemical deterioration rates were studied. An optical change was identified as the color difference and grey scale rating (colorfastness) enhanced with the increase of gas concentration while there was little physical change. Chemical damage was caused by the acidification of the textile material due to the trapped sulfate ion concentration. The result of optical, physical, and chemical deterioration rates shows that 1 ppm/day $SO_2$ is a critical level of deterioration of traditional textiles.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.14
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• pp.13-22
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• 2013

The Nectar Ritual Painting(Jeung7551) in National Museum of Korea is estimated to have been produced in the 16th century. Ezimagodo who is the head priest of Ruganji in Kyoto, Japan donated this painting in 2010. Overall, damages were serious, such as missing, staining, folding, insects of the face and mounting silk, therefore, it need to conservation treatment. The treatment of conservation in painting was removing surface stains and repairing missing area. It was mounted by following the original form. The analysis result of textile in mounting and support fiber used silk and hemp in microscope. Pigments in paint were divided into six color types. This painting was used that vermilion(cinnabar) and red lead for red color, litharge(massicot) and gold for yellow color, lead white for white color, malachite for green color, azurite for blue color, and carbon black(chinese ink) for black color.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.353-364
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• 2014

Formaldehyde(HCHO) may have a damage effect on Korean traditional textiles, because concentration is high and occurrence frequency is frequent at the exhibition room and storage area. Total 20 specimens were prepared using 4 different materials (silk, cotton, ramie, hemp) after dyeing with 5 colors (undyed, red, yellow, blue, black). The specimens were exposed to HCHO gas in the test chamber. The gas acceleration test was conducted to identify the deterioration of Korean traditional textiles according to HCHO concentration(0.5, 1, 10, 100, 500ppm), to temperature-humidity condition at HCHO 500ppm, and deterioration conditions at HCHO 500ppm. Optical, chemical, and physical evaluation was carried out after the exposure. The results, color difference, grey scale rating, formate($HCO_2{^-}$) of some textiles increased at 500ppm, while pH decreased at 500ppm. Also, color difference, grey scale rating, formate($HCO_2{^-}$) of some textiles increased double damage at high temperatures & humidity, high humidity condition. But, damages of accelerated degradation textiles were slight, because of degradation degree and degradation products. The results suggest that determined the damage to the korean traditional textile, damage level, damage-weighted condition, damage to accelerated degradation textiles. In addition, formaldehyde damaged to yellowing of red textiles, bleaching of accelerated degradation textiles, formic acid damaged to bleaching of total 20 specimens.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.3 s.151
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• pp.447-457
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to document and preserve an unidentified textile purchased at a flea market. This study object is important because it is one of the very rare silk insert series from 1930s which were created for commercial use(as inclusion in cigarette packages). The investigation was conducted by researching the limited publications that discuss silk inserts, visiting many sites on the internet that offer such inserts for sale or catering to the collectors of these silk inserts, and especially visiting the collection of silk inserts, named the J.R. Burdick Collection, at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Several pieces matched the patches used in the study piece. But Buidick's description on time frame(1912-1915) did not indicate the full range of production of silk inserts. After the identification of object, the conservation treatment was carefully done using adhesives. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. The silk inserts of the study object were included as promotions by some company owned by the American Tobacco Company, probably at some time between 1934 and 1939. 2. The initial stage in the conservation treatment was mechanical surface cleaning using a vacuum cleaner. After vacuuming, humidification was conducted to reduce creases in the top of the object. The damaged areas were backed with stabiltax coated with a solution of Elvace 45675 since the fiber of this object was too deteriorated. 3. Adhesive treatments using Elvace showed satisfactory results: flexibility, strength, no damaging effects on the study object, removability without damaging the object.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.12
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• pp.9-17
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• 2011

This study examined non-destructive UV-Vis spectrophotometry as well as 3-D fluorescence spectrophotometry of textile that made use of red dye such as Sappan wood, madder, Safflower, Gromwell. The authors produced two textile specimen that were dyed by not only two kinds of textile (cotton and silk) but also three kinds of mordanting (no-mordanting, alumen and iron), and they investigated effects of each dye material upon investigation results. At analysis with UV-Vis spectrophotometry of dyed textile specimen, dyeing made by sappan wood, madder and gromwell had significant difference depending upon mardant regardless of kinds of textile, and safflower had no significant difference depending upon textile and mordant. At analysis with 3D-fluorescence spectrophotometry, specimen dyed with sappan wood had difference with mordants, and with madder, there were difference with textiles, and safflower had inherent fluorescence spectrum regardless of textiles and mordants, while gromwell had no fluorescence spectrum.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.809-819
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• 1999

The scientific analysis of buried fabrics from the 16th century tomb of Kim HeumJo was conducted focusing on the conservation of fabrics, In order to find out the appropriate cleaning solvent and detergent for historical textiles physical chemical and biological analysis was conducted. The following results are obtained from this study : 1, The buried fabrics from the tomb of Kim HeumJo were composed of cotton silk and ramie. Most of fabrics had lost their original colors faded to brown. It was revealed variations in weaves and patterns were very developed at that times. 2. The chemical components of soils are hydrocarbons alkyl alcohols nitrogen compounds aromatic organic acid which is supposed to be from a human body microorganisms and their by-products. 3. Seven kinds of fungi Actinomycetes Corynebacterium spp Micrococcus luteus Bacillus Clostridium were isolated from the fabrics. The most common fungus was Bacillus.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.7
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• pp.987-997
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was finding out the appropriate cleaning method for buried fabrics from old tombs focusing on the conservation of textiles. Cleaning effects and physical properties change depending on cleaning method have been analysed, The following results were obtained from this study : 1. Wet cleaning showed better effect on the cleaning of fabrics compared to solvent cleaning which meant more water-soluble soils existed than oily soils. 2. All the cleaning methods used did not cause any distorsion or shrinkage to the fabrics because fabrics had been stabilized for a long time 3. Addition of detergent to cleaning system decreased the friction of fiber during cleaning rocess so that the damage of fabrics could be minimized., 4. Ironing is an undesirable process because heat remarkably weakened fibers.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.321-331
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• 2016

Textiles damage caused by acetaldehyde($CH_3CHO$) is not clear as compared to other materials. Total 20 specimens were prepared using 4 different materials (silk, cotton, ramie, hemp) after dyed with 4 colors (undyed, red, yellow, blue, black). The specimens were exposed to $CH_3CHO$ gas in the test chamber. First, textile specimens' damage by differert concentration of acetaldehyde(0.1, 0.5, 1, 10, 100, 500, 1000 ppm) was tested. Second, accelerared damage to the textile specimens were tested according to the temperature and humidity conditions at the damage levels. Third, damage of deliberately degraded textile specimens were examined at the damage levels. After the exposure, optical, chemical, and physical evaluation was carried out. As a result, at 1000 ppm/day, the color difference of cotton_yellow has increased. At the condition of $25^{\circ}C-80%$, $30^{\circ}C-50%$, $30^{\circ}C-80%$, the color difference of yellow specimens has increased and grey scale rating has decreased. At $30^{\circ}C-80%$, acetate of cotton_undyed increased and the pH of silk_undyed decreased. In the case of deliberately degraded textile specimens, actetate concentration of black specimens increased. In conclusion, damage to the traditional fabric by acetaldehyde is not impact. However, it is expected that yellow specimens will be bleach and black specimens' actetate concentration will be increase.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.2
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• pp.9-17
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• 2000

This is a case study of conservation treatment of the textiles and costumes excavated from Soonchun Park's tomb in Eumsung, North Chungcheong province. When excavated, the objects were found fairly wet and badly smelled since they decayed in wooden coffin. They were wet-treated with deionized water to remove dirt and dried at room temperature, during which the objects were blocked and flattened to keep them in shape. Silk crepeline was under-layed and stitched to the damaged areas with silk-hair threads. Each costume was individually stored in a tray made of paulownia wood and flat textiles were rolled up in paper cylinders with 6 and 10 cm in diameter. Thymol was used to prevent microorganisms.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.14
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• pp.81-89
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• 2013

This study concerns UV-Vis spectrophotometry and 3D-fluorescence spectrophotometry analysis of textile parts of blue and green tones dyed with indigo of blue tone and turmeric, gardenia, goldthread and amur cork tree of yellow tone. In order to verify whether the kinds of textiles affected analysis result of each dye, silk and cotton textile samples were produced. According to the analysis of the degree of reflection of UV-Vis spectrophotometry, unique reflection spectrum of indigo appeared regardless of the kinds of textiles when they were dyed with indigo. As for textiles of green tone, the 3D-fluorescence spectroscopic analysis result showed that unique spectrums of yellow dyes, turmeric, goldthread and amur cork tree appeared regardless of the kinds of textiles but the fluorescence spectrums of gardenia and indigo did not appear.