• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.44
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• pp.235-247
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• 1999

The influences of Art nouveau and Art Deco are as follow: The first, in the side of silhouette, hourglass style and bell shaped skirt influence on mordern fashion chiefly and S-curve style was mollified. Empire style, hobble style in art deco age are all showed diversely, in these styles especially boyish style give an outstanding trasts to modern fashion. The second, the color of art deco, characterized by pastel in art nouveau's color tone, original color and black and gold was reflected on the textile design and showed diversely in the color fo modern fashion. The third, in the field of textile and pattern, flower and plant which was a motive of art nouveau style, organic curve and geometrical pattern and exotic motive was seperately used with motive in the pattern and design of mordern. Textile of goldish and silver tone, metal stuff, lace embroidery, fur, artifical flower, feather etc. showed up on the many parts of clothing. Like this Art Nouveau and Art style not only had a great effect on the costume but also decorations and formative arts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.37
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• pp.149-162
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• 1998

This study is thed Embroidery, Cross-stitchery, Weaving, Wax-Printing of technique and design appeared in textile of Miaos dwells in south-west among the minority people of china. The study is as follows. First, the technique of textile1) satin stitch, couching stitch, french-knot stitch, etc. using anther silk thread or cotton thread color 2) cross-stitchery 3) hand-weaving technique which is shaped other warp or weft using simple loom 4) the technique of dyeing of pattern using effect with wax. These methods are singly used mixing together, therefore doubled beauty. Second, these technuque of ornament have other independence, specially ornament apron, sling, sleeve borders, slack borderss, edge of upper garment, take off and put on easily, heighten effect of various ornament, can preserve many years. Third, Maker, female born in this country fashion by need of herself, used liberal method shown in unique creativity of life. This texture make standards capable female proud of intelligent and skill of herself. Fourth, Design appeared in textile like as pattern flying bird in the sky, strolling beast in the field, lion rolling gem, laughing dragon winding snake at gem, birks, flowers, fish, butterfly is used as the wish of long life, a lucky sign. They expressed creativity and unique conception using formation : the technique transform other shape using by omitting or adding or overestimating. Geometric pattern of tartan, revealing, Fifth, composition structure having balance and symmetry or contradiction towards center and circumstance of the center harmonized repeatedly method, expressed unique artful attraction by full composition.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.505-512
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• 2006

Today a new culture called fusion has been forming. And it is spreading at an alarming rate in our society. When people talk about the character of Korean beauty and Korean culture, they speak taking pottery as an example. We can speak that the pottery is a core of culture which represent our people. And I think its pattern can be a good material for fusion. Also, among many Western artists, Mondrian is an unique painter who is to do with our culture. So, in this study, I chose the patterns described in Buncheong pottery and the Mondrian's works for the development of fusion textile design. Patterns expressed on Buncheong pottery are, for the most part, abstract patterns simplified the shape of object. And the Mondrian's works is the geometrical abstract painting be made by vertical and horizon. Using those I intend to develop the fusion textile designs which mixed Oriental culture and Western culture. Also, I intended to simulate them on ties and clothes and present the possibility of culture merchandise development. The reasons for doing so to let other peoples of the world, know about our excellent culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.4
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• pp.107-122
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to investigate the changes and developments that occurred as a result of the exchanges of gyeong-geum(經錦), a warp-faced compound weave of East Asia, and wie-geum(緯錦), a weft-faced compound weave of West Asia. In order to maximize the efficiency of this research, topics were narrowed down to the weaving skills and patterns, and the period was limited to the Tang dynasty. The systematic characteristics and differences of gyeong-geum and wie-geum were compared and contrasted through different works of literature. Then the excavated remains of geum-textiles were analyzed and the characteristics of the geum-textiles were defined in chronological order. The origin of wie-geum is traced back to the time when West Asia started to imitate the weaving style of the East Asian gyeong-geum. When combined with the weaving skills of the West Asian, gyeong-geum, which broke through the West and developed into the weft-faced compound twill silk, or samite. The exchange of geum-textiles took place as the techniques of gastric filament woven geum-textiles returned to the East. Along with the pearl roundel motifs of Sassanian Persia, mythical animals and western motifs of hunter patterns were used for the patterns of wie-geumin during the early Tang dynasty. This tendency is related to pa-sa-geum(波斯錦), ho-geum(胡錦), beon-geum(番錦) according to the recorded literature. The 8th and 9th century are periods when the West Asian Persian style was abandoned and the East Asian style, samite, was established. Not only did S twist silk threads replace Z twists, but also the repetition of patterns unfolded along with the weft and the warp. As this tendency was strengthened after the 9th century, the expression of patterns became more vividly colorful and showed both elements of naturalism and realism. The characteristics of the Bosangwha(寶相花) pattern in the Tang period were established with the rampantly repeated rosettes with birds often holding auspicious branches, that fly amid floral compositions.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.54 no.2
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• pp.78-97
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• 2021

Seojangdaeyajodo is a drawing of military night training on February 12th (lunar leap month), 1795. Focusing on the Seojangdaeyajodo, the characteristics and of the costumes worn by various types of officials were examined. There were 34 officials located near King Jeongjo in and around Seojangdae, with 27 Dangsanggwan and 7 Danghagwan. They wore three types of costumes, including armor, yungbok, and military uniforms. All of the twelve armor wearers and the five officials wearing yungbok were dangsanggwan, and the military uniform wearers included eleven dangsanggwan and six danghagwan. For the shape of the armor, the armor relics of General Yeoban, suitable for riding horses, and the armor painting of Muyedobotongji were referenced, and the composition of the armor was based on practicality. The armor consists of a helmet, a suit of armor, a neck guard, armpit guards, arm guards, and a crotch guard. The color of the armor was red and green, which are the most frequently used colors in Seojangdaeyajodo. The composition of yungbok was jurip, navy cheollik, red gwangdahoe, socks made of leather, and suhwaja. The composition of the military uniform was a lined jeolrip, dongdari, jeonbok, yodae, jeondae, and suhwaja. There were differences in the fabrics used in dangsanggwan and danghagwan military uniforms. Dangsanggwan used fabric with depictions of clouds and jewels, and danghagwan used unpatterned fabric. Moreover, jade, gold, and silver were used for detailed ornamental materials in dangsanggwan. The weapons included bows and a bow case, a sword, a rattan stick, wrist straps, and a ggakji. In the records of the King Jeongjo period, various colored heopsu were mentioned; the colors of the dongdari and jeonbok of dangsanggwan and danghagwan were referenced in various colors. It was presented as an illustration of costumes that could be used to produce objects accurately reflecting the above historical results. The basic principle of the illustration was to present the modeling standards for 3D content production. Samples of form, color, and material of the corresponding times and statuses were presented. The front, the side, and the back of each costume and its accessories were presented, and the colors were presented in RGB and CMYK.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.57 no.1
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• pp.126-144
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• 2024

The chrysanthemum vine pattern box from the Goryeo Dynasty expresses in great detail the representative features of Goryeo Dynasty lacquerware with mother-of-pearl, such as engraving patterns on the surface of fine mother-of-pearl, expressing vine stems using metal wires, and twisting metal wires to form the boundaries of each patterns. While the lacquerware with mother-of-pearl that remains today from the Goryeo Dynasty has the form of a sutra box and a box with lid, the chrysanthemum vine pattern box that is the subject of this study is in the shape of a box with a separate lid and body, making it difficult to estimate the purpose of production or the stored contents. In this study, we attempted to confirm the formative characteristics of the chrysanthemum vine pattern box in order to confirm its original form, and to investigate its structure and production technique through X-ray transmission. In addition, we attempted to identify the use and production purpose of the box by classifying and comparing the previously known lacquerware with mother-ofpearl from the Goryeo Dynasty by type. As a result of the investigation, fabric was confirmed the bottom of body and inner box through X-ray images. Through this, it was confirmed that the 'Mogsimjeopichilgi'(wooden core grabbing fabric technique) of wrapping the object with fabric was used. And through wood grain, it was possible to confirm the wooden board composition of the part presumed to be the restored part and the part presumed to have had existing Jangseog. In addition, it was confirmed that the joints were connected in a Majdaeim(part to part). Based on the survey results, a total of 14 pieces, including 9 Sutra boxes, 3 boxes, and 2 small boxes, that remain from the Goryeo Dynasty were classified by type and examined for similarity. Among them, there is a "Chrysanthemum Vine Pattern Sutra Box" from a private collection in Japan, a "Black Lacquered Chrysanthemum Arabesque Bun Sutra Box" from the Tokugawa Art Museum, a "Sutra Holder" from the British Museum, and a "Small Box with a Mother-of-Pearl Chrysanthemum Vine Pattern" from a private collection in Korea. The pattern composition of five points was most similar to the subject of this study. As a result of comparing the damage pattern, formative characteristics, and structural features of each part, it is presumed that the sutra holder in the British Museum was transformed into its current form from the original the chrysanthemum vine patterned box. Lastly, in order to confirm the purpose of production, that is, the use of this box, we investigated examples of Tripitaka Koreana printed version produced at a time similar to the social atmosphere of Goryeo at the time. Following the Mongol(元) invasion after the Goryeo military regime at the time, sutras appeared to pray for the stability of the nation and the soul of an individual, and with the development of domestic printing and paper in the 13th century, it gradually coincided with the transition from a scroll to a folded form, and the form of a box changed from a box. It is believed that the storage method also changed.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.7
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• pp.133-162
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• 1995

Paderborn's companies, Wameling and Cassau, produce the liturgical vestments, which have much traditional artistic merit. And Kevelaerer Fahnen + Paramenten GmbH, located in Kevelater which is a place of pilgrimage of the Virgin Mary, was known to Europe, Africa, America and the Scandinavia Peninsula as the "Hidden Company" of liturgical vesments maker up to now. Paderborn and Kevelaer were the place of the center of the religious world and the Catholic ceremony during a good few centries. The Catholic liturgical vestiments of these 3 companies use versatile design, color, shape and techniques. These have not only the symbolism of religion, but also can meet our's expectations of utilization of modern textile art, art clothing and wide-all division of design. These give the understanding of symbolic meanings and harmony according to liturgical vestments to the believers. And these have an influence on mental thinking and induction of religious belief to the non-believers as the recognition and concerns about the religious art. The liturgical vestments are clothes which churchmen put on at the all ceremonial function of a mass, a sacrament, performance and a parade according to rules of church. These show the represen-tation of "Holy God" in silence and distinguish between common people and churchmen. And these represent a status and dignity of churchmen and induce majesty and respect to churchmen. Common clothes of the beginning of the Greece and Rome was developed to Christian clothes with the tendency of religion. There were no special uniforms distinguished from commen people until the Christianity was recognized officially by the Roman Emperor Constantinus at A.D.313. The color of liturgical vestments was originally white and changed to special colors according to liturgical day and each time by the Pope Innocentius at 12th century. The color and symbolic meaning of the liturgical vestments of present day was originated by the Pope St. Pius(1566-1572). Wool and Linen was used as decorations and materials in the beginnings and the special materials like silk was used after 4th century and beautiful materials made of gold thread was used at 12th century. It is expected that there is no critical changes to the liturgical vestments of future. But the development of liturgical vestments will continues slowly by the command of conservative church and will change to simple and convenient formes according to the culture, the trend of the times and the fashion of clothes. The companies of liturgical vestments develop versatile design, embroidery technique and realization of creative design for distinction of the liturgical vestments of each company and artistic progress. The cooperation of companies, artists and church will make the bright future of these 3 companies. We expect that our country will be a famous producing center of the liturgical vestments through the research and development of companies, participation of artists in religeous arts and concerts of church.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.141-148
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• 2007

As Backje(B.C. 18-A.D. 600) is the whole area of Chungcheong, Jeonra, Kangwon and Gyeongsang provinces, the son of the founder of Goguryeo, King Onjoe, making the castle Wu'irae capital of the nation, founded Backje. The capital was transferred to Hansung by B.C. 5 and then to Gongju by A.D. 475. Backje governed the east of China and the northeastern coast. Due to the effect of Chinese culture there are remarkably Chinese cultural elements in dress and its ornament of Baekje. Therefore on the side of cultural part, the noble culture was formed more polished than that of Goguryeo, which affected the culture of dress and ornament. And also there were class differentiation noticeably. Baekje created splendid culture and affected the culture development of Shinra and Japan. The motive of culture creation could be the top of three countries in the foreign trade because there were geographically the widest vast plain and coastline which stretches out from north to south. Although there haven't been many materials about the cultural heritage and records more than other countries, through the modern visual point its design is fresh and more elegant those of other countries. But the fact is that there are few materials related to Baekje. What is worse, there rarely remains all original form and most of them are broken and lost. According1y, we cannot understand not only an original form of Baekje culture and but also the meaning included in it. It goes without saying that there are few materials about the clothes and fabrics. As understanding the culture of Baekje itself is insufficient, a culture enterprise utilizing it - to improve both the added value and economical achievement while combining the latest culture resources with other fields - hasn't been successful. In this study, the purpose is to improve economic power through commercialization and industrialization of the sources of the culture of Baekje. By reanalyzing a form and an image of Baekje relics, it is designed with new motif and modem preference on the condition of our peculiar cultural heritage. And while using this motif with Jacquard pattern, we made it possible to be applied to real life such as interior trinkets, etc.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.129-140
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• 2023

Following ISO 20471, in this study, first, two sets of safety clothes and safety vests were made by designing and attaching animal and bird patterns preferred by children to retroreflective films and black fabrics on those fluorescent fabrics and retroreflective materials prescribed by international standards. Second, by mounting a smart photonic device on the safety clothing so that the body can be recognized from a distance even without an ambient light source at night, children can emit three types of light depending on the situation with just one-touch of the button. From a result of comparison with visibility a day and night by dressing a mannequin in the made smart safety clothing, the difference in visibility was evident at night, it was confirmed that we can see the figure of a person even at a distance of approximately 70 m. Therefore, it is expected to contribute to the prevention of traffic and other accidents on the road, as the drivers driving at night or in bad weather can recognize a person from a distance. Third, in case of the energy is exhausted and cannot maintain the stability of the light-emitting function of the optical faber, we can use energy harvesting device, and the light-emitting time will be extended. As a result it comes up to emit light stably for a long time. And this prove that smart photonic safety clothing can also be used for night workers. Therefore, optical fiber safety clothing is expected to be highly wearable not only in real life but also in dark industrial sites due to stable charging by applying the energy harvesting provided by solar cells.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.4 s.94
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• pp.95-106
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to research the design methods to express jacquard design using CAD. For this study, two design patterns were divided; in addition, each design pattern is applied to two different weaving types, single woven fabric and double well cloths. As a result, 16 samples were produced by applying 4 design methods (warp shrunk as half size design/weft shrunk as half size design - A, warp shrunk as half size design/weft original size design - B, warp original size design/weft shrunk as half size design - C, warp original size design/weft original size design - D) to the two design patterns with the two weaving types. The result of this study can be summarized as follows. 1. The most delicate design method was Method D. However, Method B which took half the time less than Method D was almost as delicate as the Method D on the surface. 2. Method B was judged as a considerably efficient method for time and cost. 3. Method D was considered as most suitable for elaborate parts and delicate lines. However, it was considered uneconomical since it took the longest time. 4. Mettled A took 2.5 times less time than Method D. Therefore, Method A was more applicable to producing high density design. 5. Method C is not considered as a useful method as it showed rough surface and took long time by applying high design zoom except intentional design.