• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2003년도 춘계학술대회
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• pp.19-19
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• 2003

服飾文化의 일부분으로 染色과 織造에 대한 연구의 중요성은 크지만 染織 실물이 없는 현 상황에서 고대 한국의 染織文化를 이해하는 것은 어려운 일이다. 지금까지 고구려 복식문화에 대한 연구는 주로 古墳壁畵에 표현된 극히 한정된 시각자료를 통해 형태적 측면에 관한 것이 주를 이루고 있으며, 염색이나 직물에 관한 것은 그림 자료의 한계로 인해 충분한 연구가 이루어지지 않고 있다. 더욱이 고대 복식에 대한 공백을 메워주는 중요한 자료로서의 역할을 해온 고분벽화 복식은 해석 여하에 따라 오히려 왜곡된 사실을 강화해 온 듯하다.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.213-223
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• 2000

현대산업의 주 구성요소인 컴퓨터 자동화는 섬유디자인 분야에 커다란 변화를 가져왔다. 패턴을 디자인할 때 수작업에만 의존해 왔던 디자이너들은 디자인과 색채의 다양성과 제작시간의 단축하기 위해 CAD를 디자인 도구로 하여 패턴을 창조하고 그것을 구매자에게 프리젠테이션하는 등 컴퓨터 활용이 보편화되고 있다. 당초무늬는 어느 특정식물을 소재로 패턴화 시킨 것이 아니라 이집트에서 발견된 인동문을 모체로 하여 발전된 공상적인 식물덩굴무늬로서 세계적인 무늬이다. 당초무늬는 줄기를 기준으로 꽃이나 잎이 서로 얽히어 연결됨으로서 아름답고 유연한 선을 나타내고 있으며 이 같은 선은 단순하면서도 장식적인 요소가 잘 표현되어 있다. 한국에서 당초문양은 장수와 다남을 상징하는 상서로운 문양이기 때문에 예로부터 우리 조상들이 즐겨 사용했으며 생활 속에 깊숙이 자리잡고 있다. 본 연구는 당초문양을 패턴의 모티브로 하여 CAD를 이용하여 패턴 디자인함으로써 디자인 개발의 다양성을 제시하였다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.49-61
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• 2012

This study focuses on looking at the influence of silhouette in the 1930s on fabric pattern design by comprehending how differently flower-pattern design were found according to clothing silhouette. The period scope of research was limited to 1930s, and the research object was set as the flower patterns seen in the designer's high-fashion and the women's daily apparel as well as the clothes for sports and leisure activities. Based on the above research scope, the researcher investigated the clothing silhouette and the textile patterns in 1930s by reviewing the literature about domestic and foreign books, research papers, domestic and foreign fashion magazines, information on the Internet. A glance at the women's clothing in the 1930s reveals that they emphasized something inactive, elegant, feminine and that great popularity was given to feminine silhouette that closely fitted the body and long and slim, as skirts became longer and longer. Like this, silhouette refused traditional methods in the technique of expressing flower patterns that were on-trend in that period, pursued the freedom of line and form, used shadowing technique by means of free pens and brushes and the effect of watercolors. It also arranged in a semitransparent way and painted contours alone, too. Flower patterns fell into two categories: amorphous abstract patterns and standardized abstract patterns. The patterns expressed themselves, divided into small-scale irregular patterns and abstract geometric patterns that filled the entire textile.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제35권6호
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• pp.612-620
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• 2019

서울공예박물관에 소장된 모담방장(毛毯房帳)은 경사에 면사를 두고 위사에 모사를 두어 평직(平織)으로 짠 것이다. 문양 부분은 타피스트리(Tapestry)로 제직하고, 안료를 덧칠하였다. 색도를 측정하고, X선 형광분석에 의한 성분 분석 결과 진한 붉은 색의 문양에서는 수은(Hg)이 검출되어 주사(Cinnabar)나 합성안료인 주(Vermilion)로 추정하였다. 직물의 경사와 위사, 선단 및 후면 직물 등 총 7개의 직물 시료에 대한 분석을 실시하였다. 그 결과 모담방장의 경사는 섬유단면에 가운데 중공(루멘)이 있는 면섬유로, Infrared 피크도 마찬가지로 O-H 결합과 C-O 결합이 나타난다. 위사인 모섬유는 원형과 타원형의 단면이 확인되며, Infrared 피크는 N-H/O-H Stretching, Amide(-CONH-)을 보였다. 모섬유에 사용된 동물종을 확인하기 위해 문화재청의 동물털 시료와 대조분석 결과, 산양이나 염소털을 사용한 것으로 추정되며, 방적에 용이한 삽살개 털도 사용했을 가능성도 배제할 수 없다.

• 복식
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• 제54권8호
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• pp.113-128
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• 2004

This study examined textiles used for ancient costumes of the $16{\cdot}17th$ century in Joseon period, focusing on fabric types and patterns of the costumes from tombs. The purpose of this study was focused on investigating the relationship between fabrics and social backgrounds, especially change in using fabrics through the war from Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592. Since the war must have had an effect on the life of people's. The result of the study is that silk occupies $69{\%}$ of all textiles, and cotton, linen follow The weaving method of silk was primarily Plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo Period, were considerably decreased in Joseon Period. Types excavated fabrics in the $16{\cdot}17th$ century Joseon period can be said various. Of this, silk was the most remarkable one till Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592, when the ratio of patterned silk dramatically decreased. Contrarily, the ratio of cotton and plain fabric increased rapidly in Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592. It is supposed that the result is largely due to unusual condition of the war time. After the war, it is estimated that use of pattened fabric as well as silk was decreased. Patterns of textile fabrics in $16{\cdot}17th$ century were various. In result of surveying a trend of increment and decrement, it is known that the ratio of patterned textile fabrics decreased dramatically in Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592 and Manchu war of 1636. Tendency of textile use by social Position is more notable. It is appeared that a lot of silk fabrics were used in High hierarchy. The excavated remain and ratio of silk were the highest in Kyonggi Province including Seoul.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.733-744
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• 2008

In this research, we investigated the university students' consciousness and preference for the jacquard fabrics and developed the evaluation scale of the sensibility of jacquard fabrics appied by Korean traditional motives. 23 jacquard fabrics were assessed subjectively by 466 consumers using the 7-point scale of 23 descriptors of texture sensibility and 50 descriptors image sensibility. The percentage of students who were interested in jacquard fabrics was similar as that of students who were uninterested. 75.3% of students were shown to think that it was necessary to apply Korean traditional motives to the jacquard fabrics. Through cluster analysis, the hierarchy of the image sensibility was examined. The tactile sensibility of jacquard fabrics were classified into 9 sub-clusters, image sensibility of them were classified into 14 sub-clusters. The dimensions evaluating the image sensibility of jacquard fabrics were developed using multi-dimensional scaling method. A 3-dimensions and 6-axes system were determined, which consisted of 'classic-modern', 'splendid-plain', 'abstract-realistic'. It was shown that preference of jacquard fabrics was increased, as image sensibility such as 'various', 'gorgeouse', 'beautiful', 'mild', 'dim', 'traditional', 'orderly', 'comfortable', 'dignified', 'abundant', 'fantastic', and 'vague' were increased and those such as 'intense', 'old', 'stuffy', 'exotic' and 'static' were decreased.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.908-922
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to develop design for daily hanbok with Jacquard textile design developed by using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. This study will also develop Jacquard textile design that has elaborate and luxurious patterns and abundant expression of colors using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. Developing daily Hanbok design for woman's casual and formal occasion will contribute to fashion business significantly by popularization of daily hanbok as one of the important fashion genre. The "Texpro Design CAD V8.21" program was used for the textile design. A total of 3 designs were developed as the Jacquard textile design with traditional patterns using lotus flower motifs. One type of fabric was produced for each of the textile design with a color selected from "Pantone Color Chips". And finally, three woman's daily Hanbok design for either casual or and formal style were developed and these daily Hanboks were consisted of Durumagi, one-piece dress, and one set of jacket and trouser. And the actual garments were constructed and the design procedure and the photos of these works were presented. This study showed the possibility of producing highly sensible daily hanbok that suits the fashion trend of middle aged women and the widening of consumer range and the creation of new market by developing Jacquard textile design.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.126-144
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• 2015

The object of this study is to develop textile designs and fashion products based on the cultural resource of Jeju Bangsatop, which means a stone tower preventing misfortune and driving out evil spirits. The field surveys of 32 Bangsatops located at 17 villages in Jeju were conducted. As a result, unlike stone towers located in other regions, Jeju Bangsatops made with basalt. In addition, wood and stone birds, Dolhareungbang, and other sculptures are built on the tops. Jeju Bangsatops were classified into four types based on the body form of the tops: Conical, truncated conical, trapezoid, and irregular shaped Bangsatops. Jeju Bangsatops located in a area or a village are symmetrically arranged in direction of south and north, left and right, east and west, or face to face. The conical, truncated conical, and irregular shaped Jeju Bangsatops which are designated as folk cultural properties or which have the unique sculptures of stone birds and the statues of Dolhareungbang built on the tops were selected as motifs for textile pattern design. The 4 basic patterns of Jeju Bangstops were designed. The six creative textile designs were developed by the various repeat arrangements of the basic patterns and were printed on oxford cotton fabrics by digital textile printing (DTP) method. The sixteen products of wallets, bags, hats and shoes were actually made with the DTP fabrics, the DTP fabrics which were naturally dyed in gray and blue colors, or the DTP fabrics which were redesigned with textile crayon. Therefore, it is confirmed that Jeju Bangsatop could be very useful as a motif for the development of cultural products focusing on Jeju tourism souvenir market.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.372-385
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• 2022

In this study, the patterns expressed on nineteenth-century blue and white porcelain among Joseon white porcelain were selected as the material for the development of the car seat fabric design. It was intended to be applied to car seat design by incorporating Korea's own traditional patterns to fit modern sensibility. First, seven pieces of nineteenth-century blue and white porcelain were selected through the literature, and motifs were produced using adobe illustrator, a computer graphic program. Seven car seat fabric designs were developed according to the construction method and development method of the produced motif. Work 1 was designed to elicit a soft and feminine atmosphere using the peony pattern shown in Table 1-1. Work 2 aimed to express a luxurious atmosphere using the image of the mountain expressed in Table 1-2 as a design material. Works 3 was designed by freely arranging the letters of luck expressed in Table 1-3 to form a free and dynamic image. Work 4 was intended to express a stable and rhythmic atmosphere by horizontally arranging the images of the gently curved wings, tail, and rhythmical tail feathers of the phoenix expressed in Table 1-4. Work 5 was designed in a vertical arrangement using the patterns and silhouettes of the tiger's back expressed in Table 1-5. Work 6 was designed using the wave pattern expressed in Table 1-6 to replicate the rhythmic atmosphere. Work 7 was designed using the images of rocks, waves, and the sun in Table 1-7 to express a calm and antique atmosphere.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제48권2호
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• pp.193-210
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• 2024

The portrait featuring Jo Ban(1341-1401), a scholar-official from the late Goryeo and early Joseon period, and his wife is the oldest surviving couple portrait in Korea. It is of great value in uncovering the clothing culture of the period given the limited number of historical artifacts and records. This study examines the historical clothing and textile patterns of Jo Ban's wife and reproduces them using 3D fashion design software program CLO. She wears jokduri, chima, and baeja over layers of jeogori, a mixture of traditional Korean and Chinese styles. Her clothing illustrates eight patterns-one flower, five geometric, and two cloud. Records and relics of similar periods show that flower and geometric patterns in her clothing follow the prevailing styles of Goryeo, while the cloud patterns are representative of early Joseon. These details are used to reproduce six different styles of Jo Ban's wife with CLO tools. Various visualizations of textile patterns are applied to materials, generating a more realistic look than her existing 3D character created with the portrait. Results of this study are expected to help promote the use of Goryeo clothing and patterns in numerous designs and enhance intuitive understanding of Goryeo clothing based on 3D visualization.