• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.773-786
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• 2017

The current study aims to analyze the process of fabric production planning in Dongdaemun Market, which is a successful model case industrial integration in South Korea. We followed the changes in perception among fabric experts, regarding their recognition of fashion trends, and the following planning and process of fabric production. We used the purpose sampling method to select participants for interview in the Dongdaemun Market, then we carried out one-to-one interviews. Our analysis reveals 4 points of importance. First, the fabric planning stage either employed the trend book swatch, or simply reused the model fabrics already available. Even though the experts felt the need to accept the latest fashion trends, very few considered the trends as positive influences in fabric planning. Whereas trend was a key element in identifying the flow of the fashion industry, there were obstacles in carrying out the study. Second, experts frequently participated in domestic fabric seminars, but not in textile exhibitions. Third, domestic and overseas market research has been performed typically at department stores, and typically at Japan. Fourth, the influx of Chinese fabrics has both positive and negative influences, such as low price, and low reliability. In conclusion, experts were less amenable to accepting the latest fashion trends. pre-requisites in real life to meet the use of the current trend of each company. More studies on the Dongdaemun Market from perspectives of practitioners are warranted.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.52 no.2
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• pp.142-171
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• 2019

The dragon is an imaginary animal that appears in the legends and myths of the Orient and the West. While dragons have mostly been portrayed as aggressive and as bad omens in the West, in the Orient, as they symbolize the emperor or have an auspicious meaning, dragons signify a positive meaning. In addition, as the dragon symbolizes the emperor and its type has been diversified considering it as a divine object that controls water, people have tried to express it as a figure. The records related to dragons in the Goryeo dynasty appeared with diverse topics in 'History of Goryeo' and are generally contents related to founding myths, rituals for rain, and Shinii (神異), etc. The founding myth emphasizes the legality of the Goryeo dynasty through the dragon, and this influenced the formation of the dragon's descendants. In addition, the ability to control water, which is a characteristic of the dragon, was symbolized as an earth dragon related to the rainmaking ritual, i.e., wishing for rain during times of drought. Since the dragon was the symbol of the royal family, the use of the dragon by common people was strictly restricted. Furthermore, the association of a bronze dragon mirror with the royal family is hard to be excluded. The type and quantity of bronze double dragon mirrors discovered to have existed during the Goryeo dynasty is great, and the production and the distribution of bronze mirrors with double dragons seem to have been more active compared to other bronze mirrors, as bronze mirrors with double dragons produced during Goryeo and bronze mirrors originating in China were mixed. Therefore, in this article, the characteristics of diverse bronze mirrors from the 10th century to the 14th century in China were examined. It seems that the master craftsmen who produced bronze mirrors with double dragons during the Goryeo dynasty were influenced by Chinese composition patterns when making the mirrors. Because there were many cases where a bronze mirror's country of origin could not easily be determined, in order to identify the differences between bronze double dragon mirrors produced during the Goryeo dynasty and bronze mirrors produced in China, meticulous analysis was required. Thus, to ascertain that Goryeo mirrors were not imitations of bronze mirrors with double dragons originating in China but produced independently, the mirrors were examined using the bronze double dragon mirror type classification system existing in our country. Bronze mirrors with double dragons are classified into three types: Type I, which has the style of the Yao dynasty, includes the greatest proportion; however, despite there being only a small quantity for comparison, Types II and III were selected for the analysis of the bronze mirrors with double dragons made in Goryeo because they have unique composition patterns. As mentioned above, distinguishing bronze mirrors made during Goryeo from bronze mirrors made in China is challenging because Goryeo bronze mirrors were made under the influence of China. Among them, since the manufacturing place of the bronze mirrors with double dragons found at the nine-story stone pagoda in Woljeongsa Temple in Pyeongchang is questionable and the composition pattern of the bronze mirror is hard to find on bronze mirrors with double dragons made in China, the manufacturing place of those bronze mirrors were examined. These bronze mirrors with double dragons were considered as bronze mirrors with double dragons made during the Goryeo dynasty adopting the Yao dynasty style composition pattern as aspects of the composition pattern belonged to Type I, and the detailed combination of patterns is hard to find in mirrors produced in China.

• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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• no.23
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• pp.105-158
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• 2011

Due to the system of sending selected hyanggi(local entertaining woman) to the government office in Seoul after the abolition of the system of gyeonggi(entertaining woman in capital area) during the reign of King Injo(1595~1649), the kyobang-jeongjae(local dance performed for the provincial government office) had gotten into the court to be performed at the royal banquet as gungjung-jeongjae(court dance), one of which was seonyurak(dance of boating). It used to be performed for finale of the royal banquet in the late Joseon Dynasty and appeared in several uigwes(record for royal banquet) since its first appearance in the wonhaeng-eulmyo-jeongri-uigwe, documented in 1795, the 19th year of the reign of King Jeongjo. Considering that the yeoggi(female entertainer) responsible for the court dance, seonyurrak was the seonsanggi(selected entertaining woman from provinces) from the northwestern provincial villages such as Euiju, Ahnju, and Seongcheon etc., we can assume that the baettaragi, one of kyobang-jeongjaes whould have been getting into the court to become the seonyurrak as court dance. The baettaragi, kyobang-jeongjae of northwestern province that affected the development of the court dance, seonyurak was created as performance executed by entertaining women of kyobang(local supervisory office for entertaining women) on the basis of the fact that the envoy of Joseon dynasty to the Ming dynasty could not help but taking a sea route when Amaga Aisin Gurun had a grip on the northeastern area of China during the shift of power from Ming to Qing. There had been a lot of banquets for envoys in the northwestern province because of its geographical feature as gateway to trip to China and the baettaragi used to be performed by entertaining women belonged to local provincial office to consolate the sadness of separation with those who destined to depart to China and to hope for their safe return. The kyobang-jeongjae, baettaragi of northwestern province is recorded as performance with sorrowful song to put the pain of parting into work, according to many related documents. It puts together painted boats as props, the march of a couple of dancer dressed up as soldier with marching music called gochiak, the song and musical accompaniment before getting on boat, the dramatic expression of sailing, and the farewell song praying for safe return etc. It turns the situation of dispatching envoys for China by sea into performance with combination of music, song and dance. Created in this way, the kyobang-jeongjae, baettaragi had been performed at the various banquets for envoys departing for China and it affected the formation of court dance or gungjung-jeongjae called seonyurak through the activities of selected local entertaining women. It also exerted influence on other similar performance in provincial area because of the returning home of the selected local entertainers who finished their performance in Seoul and it had been performed with different variation at local banquet including locality in it.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.83-92
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• 2019

This study aims to examine at the garden characteristics of salt merchant in Yangzhou, China during the Ming and Qing Dynasties, I looked at the background of garden formation through the literature. In addition, analyzed the garden design method and components of salt merchants. The results were as follows; First, the Yangzhou area in the past has achieved cultural and economic development with the establishment of the ancient Grand Canal. Salt merchants accumulated wealth through trade, and created many gardens under the background of securing materials for create garden through trade, forming political forces through the cultivation of students, and inflow of foreign cultures. Second, salt merchants in Yangzhou asked garden experts to design and create the garden as a place for exchange and relaxation. Also, through the production of landscape changes using Gasan(假山) and a long corridor(長廊), clear classification of spaces using architectural elements, and the placement of buildings in scenic areas adjacent to the water, the gardens with practical and aesthetic functions were owned. Third, the gardens of Yangzhou Salt Merchants have a building-oriented commercial space on the front, and a garden-centered design characteristic on the back. The garden of the commercial zone was built in a simple form using pots, oddly shaped stone, bamboo and fence patterns in the remained space, focusing on the front of the building. The garden at the back formed a curved waterway connected to the canal is refracted across the garden. The garden also features piled stones(疊石), stone bridges and ship-shaped stone building(石舫). In addition, the design reflected the introduction of trees that take into account the climate and color contrast of Yangzhou province, pavement of various materials and patterns.

• (The)Study of the Eastern Classic
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• no.33
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• pp.437-470
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• 2008

Woo-Suk Hwang Jong-Ha(友石, 黃宗河 1887-1952), Woo-Chung Hwang Sung-Ha (又淸, 黃成河, 1891-1965), Gook-In Hwang Kyung-Ha (菊人, 黃敬河, 1895-?) and Mi-San Hwang Yong-Ha(美山 黃庸河, 1899-?) were not only renowned writers and painters but also brothers spaced four years apart The Hwang brothers were not specially trained by educational institutions, but studied on their own, relying on picture books from China and the artpieces of masters. Even though brothers each born only four years from the next, they preferred different techniques, and the subjects they were proficient at drawing were all different to some extent: Tiger Painting by Hwang Jong-Ha, Finger Painting by Hwang Sung-Ha, Ginseng Painting by Hwang Kyung-Ha and Painting of Four Gracious Plants (plum, orchid, chrysanthemum, bamboo) by Hwang Yong-Ha are an example of this. They also showed differences in their manner of holding various exhibitions. They did, however, forge strong familial ties by holding the Exhibition by Four Brothers or by producing joint paintings. In particular, they established an art school called the Song-Do Society for the Research of Writings and Paintings in Gaesung, North Korea as a means to nurture young artists and to offer opportunities to introduce their own artwork. They were both friends and artists, as they spent their childhood together and share their thoughts and hobbies as well as their own individual and unique works of art. Moreover, they went the through ups and downs of Korean history from the end of the Joseon Dynasty through the Japanese occupation however, they strove to keep the tradition of Korean paintings alive, and even persevered in writing and drawing countless artwork with paper, brush and Chinese ink until the day they each died.