• Title/Summary/Keyword: 전단 후장형 치마

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A Study of the Style Type and Formative Properties of Short Front and Long Back Skirts in the Early Joseon Dynasty (조선 전기 전단후장형 치마의 스타일 유형과 조형적 특성 연구)

  • Yi Ji Hwang;Sohee Kim
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.47 no.2
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    • pp.215-231
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    • 2023
  • This study classifies short front long back skirts from the Joseon Dynasty by style type, identifies their formative characteristics based on their external morphological properties and internal composition, and examines their correlation with Korean thought. A literature review and empirical research were conducted for this study. The style of short front long back skirts is classified as inverted "b"-shaped, lower lip, wavy, trapezoid with a raised center hem, or half-circle. As such, this skirt possesses the formative properties of imbalance, variability of shape, intentional three-dimensionality, and confluence. In other words, with an imbalance resulting from the difference in length between the front and back, these skirts are characterized by variability in shape created by intentional three-dimensionality expressed as intentional three-dimensional beauty, the confluence of planes and dimensions, as well as of materials and colors. These properties are correlated with Korean ways of viewing the world. This study contributes to the development of Korean designs.

The formative characteristics and wearing pattern of front-bloused-type skirts from 15th to 16th century (15-16세기 전단후장형(前短後長形) 치마의 조형적 특징과 착용양상)

  • Kim, Eun Jung;Lee, Ho Jung;Cho, Woo Hyun
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.22 no.4
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    • pp.1-16
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    • 2020
  • This study focused on front-blouse-type skirts from the 15th and 16th centuries and aimed to investigate their formative characteristics and wearing patterns. Previous studies, literature, records, paintings, and excavated clothing items were used as research materials. The researcher categorized front-blouse-type skirts into three types based on the construction method. The first has the front-center portion of the skirt folded up, the second has the center portion cut short, and the third has horizontal dart pleats on either side. An examination of 48 items from 18 excavation sites of front-blouse-type skirts showed that only the front-center portion folded up type appeared in the 15th century, and it was only in the 16th century that the other forms of skirts were worn. Finally, based on the analysis, the pattern of wearing front-blouse-type skirts and their changing factors was deduced. Front-blouse-type skirts were identified as ceremonial skirts that were popular in the 15th and 16th centuries among the types of long skirts available. The popularity and usage of this type of skirt began to spread gradually in the 15th century. In the 16th century, various types of front-blouse-type skirts were brought into vogue by the royal family and the external register. It can be inferred that the popularity of front-blouse-type skirts gradually declined in the 17th century as other types of long skirts, folding skirts, and Sran type skirts emerged.