• 복식
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• 제62권1호
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• pp.90-103
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• 2012

Felt, is one of the Korean traditional woolen fabrics, that is thermally excellent and durable, so it has been widely used for various living goods from the ancient time to the modern society. Felt makes various changes in colors and shapes, does not change easily even after a long-term use, and is easy to clean. In this study, the origin and history of felt were researched. Also, different kinds and shapes of felt and the currently used manufacturing technique, and how the Korean traditional pattern-applied cultural products were developed using felt were examined as well. The method of this study were as follows. First, felt manufacturing techniques used after investigating the precedent studies, books, records and literatures of museums, the existing relics of felt were examined. Second, the conditions of the traditional pattern-applied cultural products were found out through the precedent studies after examination of kinds and symbols of the Korean traditional patterns. Third, patterns that were applied to cultural products were selected and designed with new patterns. Fourth, the past techniques were conducted with the following three methods by referring to the range of cultural products manufacturing; )color felt made with one color, pattern felt, and pattern-embroidered felt. Fifth, the following products combined with decoration and practical application by applying felt techniques were used. This study was aiming at the development of practical cultural products made with the traditional wool, felt, which can receive a good response from all age groups. It is allegedly required to develop various cultural products through studies and the rediscovery of the national traditional materials. In the future, it is necessary to study in such a way that diversification and differentiation are made through approaches and attempts with various techniques.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권10호
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• pp.1559-1570
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• 2008

Since brought into from the economic life of nomads, the felt, the target of this study, has been developed in various ways of giving the functions of class symbol as well of protection against the cold and of ornamentation. Therefore, the study on how the felt was developed in Joseon Dynasty and how different culture from nomadic tribes it formed is significant in comprehensively under,;landing the economic, social and natural environmental factors in the Dynasty. The felt named "Jeon" has been constantly appearing in Korea from the ancient time, but it was not produced actively in the early part of Joseon Dynasty. That's why it was not a climatic condition suitable for sheep-breeding, and the government managed sheep-breeding but it aimed primarily at not producing clothing materials but having memorial ceremonies. Since sheep-breeding was not widely spreaded, production of Jeon was limited and some part was imported from China, so it was one of rare valuable goods. Therefore, the felt of wools named "Yangmojeon", the colored felt named "Chaejeon", etc. were used as liking items in the high-class society, and their materials and components were a little different depending on the official post. On the other hand, people in the low-class society used to wear the felt hats made of cattle feathers and miscellaneous fur, named "Jeonlip" and "Beougeoji". Since the middle of Joseon Dynasty, use of the felt was divided into two groups according to the users and the function, along with successful spreading of cotton and development of market economy. The function of Jeon to protect against the cold was replaced by cotton, but the felt hats of Beongeoji, Jeonlip, etc. were worn by common people continuously. As seen above, it is considered that the felt culture in Joseon Dynasty was formed very differently from the nomadic culture, because of its historical and sociocultural characteristics, and it had unique developing progress among all available fabrics.