• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Computer Information Conference
• /
• 2021.07a
• /
• pp.295-296
• /
• 2021

본 연구는 신한복 저고리에 대한 선호도 조사를 통해 추출된 신한복 저고리 디자인을 기본으로 하여 신한복 저고리 원형을 개발하고자 한다. 이를 통해 신한복 저고리 생산에 기본이 되는 패턴에 관한 정보를 제공하고자 한다. 연구에 사용된 프로그램은 CLO 3D와 DC Suite 5.1 프로그램이며, 분석에는 SPSS 26.0을 활용하였다. 1차 외관평가를 통해 낮게 평가된 부분을 수정하여 어깨폭, 소매길이, 소매통, 앞단의 겹침 분량에 대한 수정이 이루어졌다. 2차 외관평가결과 저고리길이, 소매길이, 밑단둘레에 대한 수정이 요구되었다. 최종 신한복 저고리 패턴은 앞면, 뒷면, 옆면의 모든 항목에서 4.60이상으로 높은 평가를 받았다. 개발된 신한복 저고리 패턴은 20대 전반 여성의 체형에 맞추어져 있고 소재에 대한 고려 없이 3D 시뮬레이션 상에서의 일반적인 Physical parameter값에 맞추어 제작되었다. 따라서 향후 발전된 연구에서는 소재별, 저고리의 길이별, 연령별 신한복 저고리 패턴에 대한 연구가 이루어져야 할 것으로 생각된다.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
• /
• 2001.04a
• /
• pp.37-38
• /
• 2001

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
• /
• v.26 no.8
• /
• pp.113-125
• /
• 2021

This study aimed to develop a new Hanbok Jeogori prototype based on design extracted through a preference survey on new Hanbok Jeogori. This study was conducted based on K-patterns selected as excellent patterns in prior research and utilized the SPSS 27.0 program for analysis of appearance evaluation. As a result of the first appearance evaluation and garment pressure evaluation, the shoulder area was required to be modified, so the shoulder end point was moved within 1cm to rearrange the armhole line. Modification of sleeve length and circumference was also required, reducing sleeve length by 1.5cm and sleeve circumference by 0.5cm at both ends. As a result of the second evaluation, the length of Jeogori, hem circumference, and sleeve length were required, reducing the length of the front and back Jeogori by 1 cm and reducing the sleeve length by 1cm. The hem circumference was reduced by 0.2cm each in the princess line, which was highly evaluated in the final evaluation. In future research, it is thought that pattern studies by material, length, and age should be conducted and corrections should be derived through actual wear experiments.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.8 no.4
• /
• pp.22-32
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this research is to know the pattern of Hanbok Jegory with measuring Jegory and studying manufacturing method of the Jegory used currently. It is a purpose to find constitutional problem caused by the character of the bending somatotype and, to study the standard model of the Jegory for bending somatotyped women in old age, by comparison of this fitness for bending-somatotyped women in old age. The results obtained are as follows; 1. The kinds of measurements considered in manufacturing process are Hwajang Length, Bust girth, and the skirt length. The length of Jegory and width of Neck are also considered. 2. Manufacturers consider somatotype the most important thing when they make Jegory for women in old age. Front length, Back length and Width of the Jegory are considered secondly important. 3. The results of the comparison show that the Standard Hanbok drafting method is not suitable for drafting Jegory for bending somatotyped women in old age. 4. The suitability test for the model designed by the above methods shows that it fits in bending somatotyped women in old age better than standard drafting method. The results show the superiority of the above methods especially in the breast width, the Godae length, and the adaptedness to the body.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.25 no.2
• /
• pp.13-23
• /
• 1987

The present study is undertaken to utilize the computer in pattern making of Jeugo-ris for women. The results are as follow: 1. Basic points which can be connected to depict basic pattern are represented with the numerical expreession and the curved lines consist of three types of arc. 2. The patterns of Jeugo-ris were automatically depicted by inputting the standard size(large, medium and small) and body measurements for bodice(bust girth, center back length, sleeve length). 3. This program includes the function of expressing the specific parts of patterns and of extending the patterns with or without standard lines.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.51 no.7
• /
• pp.147-165
• /
• 2001

The objective of this study was to develop the Jeogori Pattern for 9 to 10 year-old boys To determine the measurement items for the Jeogori Pattern making, applied factor analysis, correlation analysis and regression analysis to the 37 measurement items of the 9 to 10 year-old boys classified as a standard somatotype. To understand the shape and variation of the body surface, analyzed the replica of the upper body surface that was obtained by the method of using surgical tape. Be based on the results of the above studies, designed the Jeogori Pattern. The designed pattern was evaluated by the sensory test. The drafting methods of Jeogori Pattern obtained are as follows. $\circled1$ The measurement items are Bust Girth, Center Back Waist Length, Neck Width, and Hwajang Length. $\circled2$ Jeogori Length Center Back Waist Length$\times$4/3 $\circled3$ Front Body Girth(1/2) : B/2 + 1.5cm Back Body Girth(1/2) : B/2 + 3.5cm $\circled4$ Jin-Dong : B/4 + 3cm $\circled5$ Back Godae Width(1/2) : Neck Width/2 + 1.7cm Front Godae Width(l/2) : Back Godae Width(1/2) - 2cm $\circled6$Back Godae Point is 1.5cm higher than shoulder line, and Front Godae Point is 1.5cm lower than shoulder line. $\circled7$ Back Godae Depth: 1.2cm + 1.5cm = 2.7cm The Jeogori Pattern designed by the above method Is as (fig. 8) The results of the sensory test of the new pattern are as fellows. Except for 2 items, every mark of 24 test items has over 5.0 point and a total average mark is 5.25 point. Witch is a good mark. Therefore the new pattern is valid. Especially, the parts of Git, sleeves and back face have a high mark, so the appearances of those parts are excellent.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.32 no.1
• /
• pp.211-228
• /
• 1994

We consider the irrational part of the basic pattern drafting of the Geo-Ko-ri so that we want to design it more scientically. So there are problems which is found after we considered with comparison about the existingly basic pattern drafting of Geo-go-ri. (1) there is a difference between the practical and Calculation. (2) The part of the curved line was mad indistinctly There is a difference betweence the calculating expression and calculating value. (4) There are some parts which lack objectivity about the reference size. (5) The calculating method of Collar-width and Neck-Nidth are not formative and rational. These are items that we must consider and study further. Especially if we can make up of the scientific form in consideration of the formativeness focused on "git" I think it will make a great contribution to not only the standardization of the basic pattern of Geo-go-ri and the use of the use of education but also the manufacture of individual clothing the production by Auto CAD. Auto CAD.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.14 no.4
• /
• pp.607-613
• /
• 2012

This study develops a Hanbok Jeogori pattern for middle-aged women with a 3D virtual-twin and virtual-garment simulation system. The including criteria for subjects in this study was a focus on women in their 50s, and a total of 345 females satisfying them were enrolled for 3D virtual model. Comparative Jeogori pattern, Baik & Choi's(2004) pattern, was selected for the development of Jeogori pattern. The results were: first, a new Jeogori pattern considerate of middle-aged women was developed. The basic numerical formula were: Front and back bust girth B/4+1.5, armhole depth B/4, sleeve width B/4, goedae width B/10-1.5 and git width 5.5. Second, according to the results of the new Jeogori patterns appearance evaluation, the new Jeogori pattern scored higher than the existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, this confirmed that the new Jeogori pattern is appropriate for middle-aged women. Virtual models of production through data from 3D body scan, pattern draft, and virtual garment digital program were applied to a prototypic design method to enhance the fitness of ready-made Hanbok garments. This study serves as important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D Virtual Garment Simulation System with 2D patterns and for the future 3D Pattern Production Program development of Hanbok patterns.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.23 no.6
• /
• pp.1191-1204
• /
• 2014

Even though a Han-bok, or traditional Korean costume, should be inherited since it is invaluable part of our culture, research on Han-bok is scarce. Since the development of a Jeogori pattern, the upper garment of Korean traditional clothes, is done mostly based on the chest size, the design does not completely consider on wearer's body shape. Moreover, unless made by an expert, trial and error is almost always necessary to improve the fit of the clothes. In this research, a Jeogori pattern was suggested that improves the fit based on the shape of the upper back(straight or bent) of a female in her late 20s who often wears a Han-bok and is comfortable when moving. Using a 3D virtual clothing system, the optimum pattern was selected based on the body shape. The final selection was made, and each subjects tried the garment on to evaluate the comfort when moving, along with its appearance, based on a seven point Likert scale. As a result, for a straight body shape, the optimum ease for the front bust width was 2.5cm, and that for the back bust width was 2.0cm. The optimum center back dart was 1.0cm. The optimum Geodae width was 7.6cm, and the optimum back Geodae point was 2.0cm. For the bent body shape, the optimum ease for the front and back bust was 2.0cm. The optimum Geodae width was 8.4cm, and the optimum back Geodae point was 1.5cm. Furthermore, if the Hwajang slope was set at half of the vertical distance between the laterals of the neck and shoulder, a fitted silhouette appeared, which is preferred nowadays. In the appearance evaluation, the final pattern designed in this research received higher scores than the original design(straight; p<.001, bent; p<.05). The results of the evaluation of the comfort when moving also showed higher scores for the final pattern that was designed.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.45 no.3
• /
• pp.11-21
• /
• 2007

So far, the graphics of Korean clothing have focused on maintenance of forms without specific improvement. In particular, in the archetypal design of a Jeogori, ambiguous standards on the overlapping of left and right collars and collar strips cause problems in the teaching and teaming of Korean traditional clothing. As a result, the graphics of men's Durumagis based on a Korean Jeogori have the same problems as Jeogoris and the connection between them has not been sufficiently studied. Design of "Moo" in respect to graphics of men's Durumagis has its own calculation equation or measures, but they can not be generalized. This study therefore considers the existing graphics of men's Durumagis or approaches of Moo in different angles by reviewing the connection between Durumagis and Jeogoris. Therefore, archetypal forms of Durumagis are designed with a radius of a circle using one's height and the girth of one's chest, which contributes to symmetry of the collars and teaming effects through scientific graphics of "Moo." It is further expected that can be mass-produced through archetypal design of overcoats and graphics of "Moo" of Durumagis that can be standardized as well as connection between graphics of Jeogoris and Jeogoris.