• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.9
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• pp.1645-1654
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• 2001

패션은 지속적으로 변화하며 이는 새로운 패션 트렌드의 출현을 의미한다. 특히 지난 1990년대 패션은 사회, 과학, 경제, 문화 등 사회환경의 급격한 변화로 새롭고 다양한 가치의 추구로 패션분야에서도 새로운 것에 대한 욕구가 급증하였다. 따라서 본 연구는 1990년대 패션 트렌드를 분석하여 패션의 특성을 파악하여 미래의 패션을 예측하고 대응하기 위한 자료를 구축하는 것을 목적으로 하였다. 패션트렌드는 향후 예측되는 유행테마, 스타일, 색채 , 소재 , 디테일 등을 제시하고 있는데 , 본 연구에서는 시대상을 보다 심층적으로 파악하기 위하여 패션테마만을 집중적으로 분석하고 고찰하였다. 일반적으로 패션테마로 제시되는 개념 이 나 용어들은 동시대의 사회현상과 패션 분야에서 요구될 것으로 예상되는 내용이 비교적 자유분방하게 제 시 하고 있으므로, 패션 테마의 분석과 고찰은 패션의 실체를 이해하는데 매우 유용하다 하겠다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 패션테마로 제시된 용어들을 수집하고 분석하여 , 패션경향는 물론 패션의 실체를 파악하고자 하였다. 연구 대상은 1990년대 10년간의 패션트렌드로 설정했으며, 분석자료는 구체적으로 국내패션정보사인 K·F·S와 S· F·I에서 제시한 트렌드지를 사용하였다. 연구결과 1990년대 패션은 종래의 상식적인 디자인 개념을 넘어서서 여러 가지 다채로운 스타일들이 역사적 시간과 여러 문화의 공간을 오가며 교류되는 포스트모더니즘적 인 특성을 강하게 나타냈으며 , 이러한 경향은 매우 깊고 광범위하게 1990년대 의 패션트렌드에 반영되어 나타났다. 최근의 첨단 과학 기술의 발달과 이에 반하는 자연으로의 회귀욕구와 인간의 본질을 추구하는 인식의 전환 또한 패션 트랜드에 영향을 주었다. 이들을 포용하는 패션 주제는 크게 자연주의, 세계주의, 미래주의, 복고주의 등으로 분석되었다. 이 와 같은 패션 테마들은 각각 독립 적 이 기보다는 서로 상호 보완하고 조화를 이루는 가운데 1990년대 패션으로 형상화되었다. 이러한 1990년대 패션 경향의 분석 결과는 동시대의 사회상을 반영하는 동시에 패션의 특징인 주기성과 반복성을 그대로 보여주고 있었다. 이러한 연구 결과는 패션의 특징을 파악하고, 21세기 패션 경향을 보다 정확하게 예측하고 제시할 수 있는 중요한 자료로 사용될 수 있을 것으로 기대한다.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.60-74
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• 2004

The purposes of this study are firstly to considered nudism of the sociocultural context, secondly to consider the cultural meaning of the nudism fashion expressed in the 2000's and thirdly to clarify formative characteristics of nudism fashion style in the 2000's. For these purposes, documentary studies about nudism in social science and psychology were analyzed and then objective studies with fashion magazine after the 2000 and clothes released at various collections were performed for studies about nudism fashion in the 2000's. The results of this study were as follows: 1. Nudism of the sociocultural context was divided into Naturalism, Counteracting culture, Eroticism and Narcissism. 2. Fashion, influenced by nudism, tended to express the beauty which emphasizes the functional aspects of nude and includes the decorative characters. 3. Nudism in the 2000’s fashion was summarized as Eroticism nudism fashion, Primitivism nudism fashion and Futurism nudism fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.63-75
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to identify purchasing behavior and attitudes toward naturalistic cosmetics according to women's LOHAS lifestyle. Self-administered questionnaires were distributed to 500 women aged 19-59. SPSS was used for data analysis. The results were as follows: 1. Factors of LOHAS lifestyle were social consciousness, reduce resources, family centered, individuality & environmental consciousness, healthy food life, and information search. Women were clustered into bad-being group, environmentalists, LOHAS group, well-being group, and individualists. 2. Most women had a bit of knowledge and experienced naturalistic cosmetics. Over 85% of women had intention to use naturalistic cosmetics. 3. Bad-being group and individualists included university women and had little knowledge and experiences of naturalistic cosmetics. LOHAS group and well-being group included more career women with higher education, had more knowledge and experiences. 4. Knowledge and experiences of naturalistic cosmetics were the most effective factors on the use intention of naturalistic cosmetics.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.149-158
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• 2005

These Study for meaning of Skirt Exhibition of Prada who has originality about minimalism, anti design. Her special characteristics of modern design world is very trendy. The latest trend which is deconstruction, nonos tribe, techno-functional of Prada style showed her exhibition. It was very meaningful about Prada fashion and modern design and culture. The various fused fashion items and genres are normally observed in the skirt exhibition. Besides interpretation of light and movement, novelty of modern design would be guided to the exit of modern culture and art, which haver to answer to th e continuous questions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.137-151
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• 2003

Fashion photographs from leading monthly fashion magazines in 1990s were analyzed. The types and the formative feature characteristics and the aesthetic values of domestic retrospective fashion were studied. The major conclusions of the study are as follows 1. The types of domestic retro fashion were historicism, ethnic, ecology. Retro fashion was expressed through applying and reappearing silhouette, detail. fabric and image of the costumes of the past. 2. Renaissance. Baroque, Rococo styles and the costumes and styles of 1960s and 1970s were mainly applied in domestic fashion. 3. Orientalism was emphasized and Korean traditional styles and Chinese costumes were expressed mainly in domestic fashion. Fashion trends recurrent and intimate to the nature were expressed in patterns, fabrics, dyeing and silhouettes of nature. 4. The formative feature characteristics of domestic retro fashion were recurrence, purity. tradition and decoration. As retro fashion applies costumes of the past newly, it supplies unlimited possibilities to the present fashion which seeks versatility.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2001.04a
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• pp.41-41
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• 2001

본 연구는 1990년대 밀리터리 패션에서 성적 이미 지의 표현양상을 살펴보고 각각의 미적 특성과 형성 요인을 분석하여 현대 여성의 다양한 미적 가치와 미의식을 이해하고자 한다. 1, 2차 세계대전을 계기로 자연스럽게 등장한 밀 리터리 패션은 20세기 초반에 여성의 사회참여와 지 위 향상으로 인해 실용성과 기능성을 추구하였고 중 반에 들어서면서 히피와 젊은 세대들에 의해 반전운 동의 일환으로 입혀져 안티패션의 의미를 내포하게 되었으며 후반에는 포스트모더 니즘으로 인해 다양성 을 추구하는 복고풍의 패션 트랜드로서 각종 컬혜션 에서 부각되었다. 그 결과 밀리터리 패션은 기존의 남성적 이미지뿐만 아니라 여성적 이미지도 표현하 게 되었다. 이러한 밀리터리 패션에 나타난 성적 이 미지는 권위적 이미지와 공격적 이미지의 남성적 이 미지와 보수적 이미지와 과시적 이미지, 관능적 이미 지의 여성적 이미지로 표현되어 나타났다. 남성적 이미지는 자유주의 페미니즘과 관련하여 남성 중심적 사고 방식에 도전하고자 하는 여성들의 자아의식이 한층 강하게 작용한 일종의 반 패션 현 상으로 권위적 이미지와 공격적 이미지로 특정지을 수 있다. 첫째, 권위적 이미지는 주로 고전적 군복과 제복의 이미지를 차용해 군복이 가지는 권위와 위엄을 표출 하였으며 남성 우월주의에 기초한 영웅주의를 가시 적으로 표현하였다. 이는 떳떳하게 자신의 위치를 세 우고자 하는 여성들의 욕구를 대변하였으며 영웅주 의와 가부장제도가 그 형성요인으로 작용하였다. 둘째, 공격적 이미지는 권위적 이미지에 대한 저 항과 기존의 성 정체성에 대한 저항으로써 전위적인 형태와 해체적인 표현으로 본래의 위엄있는 군복의 이미지를 무너뜨려 남성다웅의 표면적인 메시지를 약화시키고자 하였으며 반체제 정신, 성 정체성에 대 한 저항, 해체주의가 그 형성요인으로 작용하였다. 여성적 이미지는 급진주의 페미니즘과 관련하여 여성 본래의 성을 부각시키고 여성이 주체가 된 여 성중심적 사고로 여성의 감성적 심리를 패션을 통해 표현하고자 하였으며 보수적 이미지, 과시적 이미지, 관능적 이미지로 특징 지을 수 있다. 첫째, 보수적 이미지는 남성적 영역이라고 믿어왔 던 군복에 여성성을 강조하여 가늘고 유연한 실루엣 과 곡선적인 라인, 색채. 심플한 디테일만으로 밀리 터리 패션을 표현하여 남성중심의 이데올로기에서 벗어나 여성도 사회의 중심이 될 수 있음을 시사하 였으며 남성 권위의 추락이 그 형성요인으로 작용하 였다. 둘째, 과시적 이미지는 전통적 군복이 과거의 상 류층 엘리트들만의 아이템이었듯이 현대의 여성들은 신분과 매력의 과시를 표현하고자 금속 단추나 벨트 등 기타장식을 부각시킨 밀리터리 패션을 착용하였 으며 엘리트층에 대한 동경이 그 형성요인으로 작용하였다. 셋째, 관능적 이미지는 신체의 간접적인 노출과 직접적인 노출을 통해 여성의 신체에 의한 에로틱한 관능미를 부여하고자 하였으며 나르시시즘과 보이고 자 하는 욕구, 성적 유희가 그 형성요인으로 작용하였다. 그러므로 밀리터리 패션에 나타난 성적 이미지에 관한 연구는 패션을 통해 자아를 표현하고 미적으로 자기완성의 방편을 삼으려고 한 현대 여성들의 가치 관과 미의식을 이해하며 이를 충족시키고자 하는 패 션 트랜드와 디자인 개발에 도움이 될 것이다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.4
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• pp.37-51
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• 2000

In this study, New Orientalism represened in modern fashion is defined a new idea that harmonized with factors of eclecticism, traditionalism, naturalism, and futurism and these characteristics are examined. First, as these features, it is the phenomenon of eclecticism presented beyond regions and sex. Second, it is the phenomenon of traditionalism newly expressed traditional images in a modern sense by using and changing of a oriental dress image of the of the past. Third, it is the phenomenon of naturalism revealed an unalloyed recurrent instinct about nature and a desire for yearning. Fourth, it is the phenomenon of futurism which is come out the factor of oriental images whithin a minimal and cyber environment. This paper might be the foundation for Korean Orientalism which could be not a just pastiche but a cultural commodity and s main fashion current with a cultural identity especially in the year of 2000, "New Arts Year", declared by Ministry of Culture and Tourism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.3 s.151
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• pp.412-424
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• 2006

This paper starts out with a review of the concepts of naturalism and natural clothes. Based on these concepts, the paper aims to create nature-friendly and high-value modem designs by grafting natural images from butterflies into human bodies. The images of butterflies are combined to show distinguished luxury and diversity with natural materials such as denim. As for the design technology, Adove Illustrator 10, Photoshop 7.0, and Prima Vision Textile Design System are used since they are very popular in the CAD system. The followings are the main findings of our research. Naturalism displays its objectivity based on its inherent interest in human nature and its factual description in scientific approaches with an intention to find a true meaning of human life in nature. Natural clothes can be defined as the clothes of natural silhouette which are made of pure materials in natural colors and dyes from natural motifs such as animals, plants or natural phenomena. We have realized that the visually distinguished looks of butterflies are indeed far more luxurious than those of any other insects and this visual distinction can be utilized to attract the attention from designers. Lastly, it turns out that the digital printing technique can create more variety in colors and design forms than the manual printing, thereby providing designers with more options and practicality.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.15-27
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to perform research of ecology concepts expressed in fashion and to propose a new ecology fashion design based on the results. As a specific research method, first, to determine the concept of ecology, the contents related to ecology were extracted and organized through literature research, and then a fashion collection research was conducted to acquire basic design data, such as silhouettes, materials, details, and colors. From WGSN, and a total of 57 images were selected and used as basic data for the design suggestions. As a result of collecting the collection images, it was found that cotton or denim fabrics were mainly used, and in particular, the frequency of use was high mainly for bright tones. The use of chambray, lace, and wrinkles, was also frequent, and the use of expression techniques using burn-out, bleach, and bleaching effects or parts, or entire dyeing was often noticeable. The colors showed neutral and pastel-toned characteristics, and the silhouette was mainly composed of long silhouettes centered on maxi, such as a top or calf based on the knee, rather than a mini. Fabrics for the final designs were linen and sappan wood, and they were used for the dye and red was used as the overall color. The silhouettes were simplified, and care was taken to prevent unnecessary waste, such as paper or materials, from being generated during the production stage. We tried to achieve the purpose of eco-logy by refraining from excessive trimming, except for essential subsidiary materials, such as zippers.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.1259-1271
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• 2011

This study investigates and compares the changes of naturalism in fashion presented over a 30-year period to understand the diversity of naturalism in fashion. Data were collected from 59 volumes of the "Vogue" magazine for January and July in each year from 1980 to 2009. The data used for content analysis consists of 440 words and these were condensed into three periods according to decade(1980~1989, 1990~1999, and 2000~2009). The selected words were classified into four sub-themes according to the previous research definitions such as primitive look, natural look, eco look and handcrafted look. The results are as follows. First, naturalism of fashion was highly presented in the 1980s but the percentages of naturalism in three decades were all more or less similar. Especially, natural look appeared more in the 1980s and eco look was in the 1990s, while natural look, eco look and handcrafted look were found all together in the 2000s. Second, naturalism of fashion showed higher frequency of F/W seasons in the 1990s, while S/S seasons in the 1990s and 2000s. In particular, natural look was presented more at S/S seasons. The sub-themes coexistence were presented in the 24 seasons out of 59 seasons and showed more variously in the 2000s. Third, the words selected from sub-themes of naturalism in fashion demonstrated the differences by decade.