• Title/Summary/Keyword: 일방향 불규칙파

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Calculation of Wave Deformation and Wave Induced Current around an Underwater Shoal by Boussinesq Equation (Boussinesq 방정식을 이용한 수중 천퇴에서의 파랑변형 및 파랑류 계산)

  • Chun Insik;Seong Sangbong;Kim Guidong;Sim Jaeseol
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.17 no.3
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    • pp.202-212
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    • 2005
  • In the design of an of offshore structure located near an underwater shoal, the same amount of attention given to the wave height may have to be put to the wave induced current as well since some of the wave energy translates to the current. In the present study, two numerical models each based on the nonlinear Boussinesq equation and the linear mild slope equation are applied to calculate the wave deformation and secondly induced current around a shoal. The underwater shoal in Vincent and briggs' experiment (1989) is used here, and all non-breaking wave conditions of the experiment with various monochromatic and unidirectional or multidirectional spectral wave incidences are concerned. Both numerical models clearly showed wave induced currents symmetrically farmed along the centerline over the shoal. The calculated wave heights along a preset line also generally showed very nice agreements with the experimental values.

Theoretical Prediction of Dynamic Elastic Moduli and Attenuation Properties of Fiber-Reinforced Composite Materials (섬유강화 복합재료의 동탄성계수 및 감쇠특성의 이론적 예측)

  • 김진연;이정권
    • Transactions of the Korean Society of Mechanical Engineers
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    • v.16 no.12
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    • pp.2328-2339
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    • 1992
  • The propagation of coherent time-harmonic elastic L-and SV-waves is studied in a medium with random distribution of cylindrical inclusions. The purpose of the research is to characterize the dynamic elastic moduli and the attenuation properties of fiber-reinforced composite materials. The cylindes representing the fibers are assumed to be distributed in parallel with each other and the direction of incident waves are normal to the cylinder axes. A multiple scattering formula using the single scattering coefficients in conjunction with the Lax's quasicrystalline approximation is derived from which the dispersion relation for such medium is obtained. In order to formulate the multiple scattering interaction between cylinders, the pair correlation functions are generated by the Monte Carlo simulation technique. From the numerically evaluated complex wavenumbers, the propagation speed of the average wave, the coherent attenuation and the effective elastic moduli are presented as functions of frequency and fiber volume fraction.

Variation Characteristics of Irregular Wave Fields around 2-Dimensional Low-Crested-Breakwater (2차원저천단구조물(LCS)의 주변에서 불규칙파동장의 변동특성)

  • Lee, Kwang-Ho;Choi, Goon Ho;Lee, Jun Hyeong;Jung, Uk Jin;Kim, Do-Sam
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.31 no.6
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    • pp.356-367
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    • 2019
  • This study evaluates the variation characteristics of irregular wave fields for two-dimensional Low-Crested Structure (LCS) by olaFlow model based on the two-phases flow by numerical analysis. The numerical results of olaFlow model are verified by comparing irregular wave profile of target wave spectrum and measured one, and their spectra. In addition, spacial variation of irregular wave spectrum, wave transmission ratio, root-mean square wave height, time-averaged velocity and time-averaged turbulent kinetic energy by two-dimensional LCS are discussed numerically. The time-averaged velocity, one of the most important numerical results is formed counterclockwise circulating cell and clockwise nearshore current on the front of LCS, and strong uni-directional flow directing onshore side around still water level.

Calculation of Expected Sliding Distance of Concrete Caisson of Vertical Breakwater Considering Variability in Wave Direction (파향의 변동성을 고려한 직립방파제 콘크리트 케이슨의 기대활동량 산정)

  • 홍수영;서경덕;권혁민
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.16 no.1
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    • pp.27-38
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    • 2004
  • In this study, the reliability design method developed by Shimosako and Takahashi in 1999 for calculation of the expected sliding distance of the caisson of a vertical breakwater is extended to take into account the variability in wave direction such as directional spreading of waves, obliquity of the deep-water design principal wave direction from the shore-normal direction, and its variation about the design value. To calculate the transformation of random directional waves, the model developed by Kweon et al. in 1997 is used instead of Goda's model, which was developed in 1975 for unidirectional random waves normally incident to a straight coast with parallel depth contours and has been used by Shimosako and Takahashi. The effects of directional spreading and the variation of deep-water principal wave directions were minor compared with those of the obliquity of the deep-water design principal wave direction from the shore-normal direction, which tends to reduce the expected sliding distance as it increases. Especially when we used the field data in a part of east coast of Korea, considering the variability in wave directions reduced the expected sliding distance to about one third of that not considering the directional variability. Reducing the significant wave height calculated at the design site by 6% to correct the effect of wave refraction neglected in using Goda's model was found to be proper when the deep-water design principal wave direction is about 20 degrees. When it is smaller than 20 degrees, a value smaller than 6% should be used, or vice versa. When we designed the caisson with the expected sliding distance to be 30㎝, in the area of water depth of 25 m or smaller, we could reduce the caisson width by about 30% at the maximum compared with the deterministic design, even if we did not consider the variability in wave directions. When we used the field data in a part of east coast of Korea, considering the variability in wave directions reduced the necessary caisson width by about 10% at the maximum compared with that not considering the directional variability, and is needed a caisson width smaller than that of the deterministic design in the whole range of water depth considered (10∼30 m).

Experimental Study on Energy Transmission Rate of Horizontal Dual Plate by Random Wave System (수평형(水平型) 이열(二列) 조합판(組合板)의 투과율(透過率) 산정(算定)을 위한 실험적(實驗的) 연구(硏究))

  • Kweon, Hyuck-Min;Kim, Young-Hak;Kee, Sung Tae
    • KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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    • v.28 no.4B
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    • pp.421-428
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    • 2008
  • For last decades, the rapid coastal erosion process spreading along Korean peninsular has become a nuisance especially for tourism and local economy. Global warming and sea-level rise demand persistently new coastal protection strategies against the conventional methods using armored structures. In a view of this, Kweon et al. (2007) has proposed a new type of horizontal steel plates for an ideal candidate as eco-friendly detached breakwater systems for global warming era. The breakwater is composed of piles and horizontal porous plates that was devised for the optimized blockage effects and wave energy dissipations. This system provides outstanding performances as wave barrier and added advantages such as a rapid installation, an easy relocation, a perfect water circulation for the stagnation of pollutions in sheltered regions. The present experimental study focuses on the performance evaluations of the proposed system in wind wave conditions as a wave dissipator and reflector. The reflection, transmission, and energy dissipation of the random waves has been discussed in detail based on a newly proposed relation between wave steepness and a plate width normalized by wave length that are major factors affecting the wave transmission.

Numerical Study on a Dominant Mechanism of Rip Current at Haeundae Beach: Honeycomb Pattern of Waves (수치모의를 통한 해운대 이안류의 주요 메커니즘 연구: 파랑의 벌집구조)

  • Choi, Junwoo;Park, Won Kyung;Bae, Jae Seok;Yoon, Sung Bum
    • KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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    • v.32 no.5B
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    • pp.321-329
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    • 2012
  • Two regular progressive wave trains, the directions of which are slightly different from each other, develop a honeycomb pattern of wave crests due to their nonlinear interaction. In the honeycomb pattern of wave crest, the nodal line area, which has very low wave energy, is formed. When the honeycomb pattern is developed near the beach area, rip current evolves through the nodal line area formed in the cross shore direction. In this study, to confirm that the formation of honeycomb pattern of waves near the beach area is a dominant mechanism of rip current occurred at Haeundae beach, we performed a numerical simulation of nearshore circulation at Haeundae beach under an unidirectional and monochromatic wave condition by using a nonlinear Boussinesq equation model. As a result, wave refraction due to topographical characteristics (i.e., submerged shoal) of Haeundae gave rise to several wave trains propagating with slightly different directions toward the beach, and consequently rip currents well developed through the nodal line area of honeycomb patterns of wave crest. In addition, we found that a narrow-banded spectral wave condition (i.e., a swell spectrum) increases more likelihood of rip current than a broad-banded spectral wave condtion based on the simulations employing various wave spectra with an equivalent wave height and period.