• 패션비즈니스
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• 제26권5호
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• pp.36-48
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• 2022

This study aims to analyze the patterns made with knitted jacquard and intarsia techniques to provide essential data to help plan different knitwear designs using the techniques and patterns. Based on approximately 3,000 jacquard and intarsia knitwear published in the four significant womenswear collections over the past decade, eight main pattern types were classified, and each characteristic was analyzed. Firstly, it is a logo and symbol type pattern that appears mainly as a means of emphasizing a brand. Secondly, it is a traditional pattern with settled patterns from the past to the present. Third, it is a geometric pattern that appears both typically and atypically in various forms. Fourth, an abstract pattern type does not show a precise form or motif. Fifth, it is a colorful and diverse flower and plant pattern. Sixth, it is a landscape pattern that expresses nature and living space. Seventhly, it is an animal pattern type that expresses the appearance of an animal or the shape of the. Finally, it is a caricature pattern type using characters and various cartoonish motifs. Based on the analysis results of this study, creative and diverse design development of Jacquard and Intarsia knitwear and development of the knitwear market will take place.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권8호
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• pp.828-836
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• 2012

This study provided the data for the planning of knit apparel by analyzing structural effects of intarsia and jacquard knit on mechanical properties, subjective hand measurements, and preference. Intarsia and 7 types of color jacquard (floating jacquard, normal jacquard, bird's eye jacquard, tubular jacquard, ladder's back jacquard, blister jacquard, and transfer jacquard) were used. The samples (with a gauge of 14) were knitted using 100% wool 2/48's yarn by a Shima Seiki SIG computer knitting machine. Mechanical properties and hand values were measured by a KES-FB system. Subjective hand and favorable images were surveyed based on women in their 20s and 30s. The data were analyzed by a factor analysis, ANOVA and correlation analysis using SPSS 12.0. The subjective hand of intarsia and jacquard knits was categorized into 'thermofeeling', 'weight/flexibility', and 'durability'. The results of the favorable image survey for F/W outer knitwear showed that tubular jacquard was most favorable; however, the transfer jacquard was least favorable. Among the three factors that explain the subjective hand, thermofeeling had a strong influence on the favorable image of consumers. Bird's eye jacquard and tubular jacquard turned out to be most suitable for suits, intarsia and floating jacquard were suitable for cardigans and sweaters, ladder's back jacquard was suitable for hats or mufflers, and transfer jacquard was suitable for home fashion rather than garments.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권8호
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• pp.968-981
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• 2011

This study examines the effect of the structure of Intarsia and Jacquard knit on mechanical properties of knit fabrics to suggest data for knit design. Intarsia and 7 types of Color Jacquard (Floating Jacquard, Normal Jacquard, Bird's eye Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard, Ladder's back Jacquard, Blister Jacquard, and Transfer Jacquard) were used. The samples with a gauge of 14 were knitted using 100% wool 2/48's yarn by Shima Seiki SIG computer knitting machine. The Objective Hand was measured by KES-FB system and HV and THV were calculated by the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-winter respectively. The results showed that Intarsia and Floating Jacquard are thin, flexible and light, Bird's eye Jacquard is slick, flat and slim, Tubular Jacquard is stiff and undrapable, Ladder's back Jacquard is difficult in shearing deformation and relatively bulky, Blister Jacquard is thickest and transfer jacquard is uneven in surface contour. The selection of proper structure is important for the knit apparel production since the thickness and weight of knit determine the amount of yarn needed and consequently the production cost. The hands of Ladder's back Jacquard and Tubular Jacquard are superior to those of other structures. Intarsia and Floating Jacquard which are thin, light and flexible seem to be good structures for designs showing a body silhouette whereas, Bird's eye Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard and Blister Jacquard (which are thick, heavy, and stiff) are suitable for a boxy silhouette.

• 경영과학
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• 제32권1호
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• pp.35-47
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• 2015

The purpose of this paper is to find an optimal weaving connection method of sweater threads while weaving intarsia sweater by the genetic algorithm. The objective function was devised to minimize labor cost and lessen the amount of thread usage. In order to create the parental population group in the genetic algorithm, we developed five thread connection methods. Besides, elite chromosome screening methods for the offspring group was selected both to the whole chromosome thread elite and to a color-coded elite thread chromosome. Commonly used diamond pattern in Intarsia sweater manufacturing was applied to the experiments. The experimental results showed that thread system saved the labor and material costs than woven method under the existing software. When weaving Intarsia sweater in the field, we can apply the developed genetic algorithm to improve productivity of weaving connection method.