• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.117-126
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• 2011

This study investigates the physical properties and manufacturing method of shape memory fabric for emotional garment made by polypropylene. For this purpose, polypropylene(PP) POY and SDY were texturized using low temperature and constant length heat treatment texturing technologies, respectively. The shape memory fabrics made using these texturized PP yarns were woven with two kinds of PET and PTT shape memory yarns on the air-jet loom and the various physical properties of four kinds of shape memory fabrics were measured and discussed. The tenacity and breaking strain of PP texturized yarns treated by low temperature and constant length heat treatment showed high weaving efficiency and the wet thermal shrinkage of PP textured yarns was shown less than 1.5%, dry thermal shrinkage was ranged between 3% and 5%, which means thermal stability compared to the PTT textured yarn with high thermal shrinkage, 5~8%. The shape memory characteristics of PP shape memory fabrics measured by Toray method showed five grade as same value as PTT shape memory fabric. The heat keeping property of the PP shape memory fabric showed 56% higher value than that of PTT shape memory fabric. The water repellency of PP shape memory fabric measured by spray method showed five grade as same value as PTT shape memory fabric treated with water repellent agent. Especially, shape memory properties of PP shape memory fabric measured by 3-D image and camera measurement methods showed similar characteristics to the PTT shape memory fabric.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.137-147
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• 2010

This research was designed to compare the subjective evaluation of texture image and preference by structure and sensible characteristics of women's suits fabrics between on- and off-line. 78 subjects who majored in fashion design evaluated the sensibility image and preference of 15 various kinds of specimens on- and off-line. Factor analysis, t-test, Pearson correlation and regression were used for a statistical analysis by SPSS WIN 13.0. The results of this study were as follows: 1. Women's suits fabrics were classified according to five sensibility image factors: 'classic', 'sophisticated', 'natural', 'characteristic', and 'practical'. 2. The results of the t-test showed that there were no differences between the on- and off-line evaluation of sensibility images. 3. The analysis of correlation indicated that the 'classic'-'sophisticated' and 'natural'- 'practical' sensibility images show a significant correlation between the two kinds of evaluation. 4. The results of regression revealed that 'sophisticated', 'characteristic' and 'practical' sensibility images had an effect on the purchase preference of women's suits fabrics. 5. 'Sophisticated', 'characteristic' and 'classic' sensibility images had an effect on the tactile preference of women's suits fabrics. 6. The structural characteristics of fabrics: thickness, weave and weight had an effect on the 'classic' sensibility image. Thickness had an effect on the 'sophisticated' sensibility image and fabric count had an effect on the 'characteristic' sensibility image.

• (The)Study of the Eastern Classic
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• no.54
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• pp.183-211
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• 2014

This article is to search the aspects of realization and the characteristics of Gasa, Sijo, Japga among the Korean poetry genre based on Chohan-gosa. Chohan-gosa is a basic literary and historic discourse for the medieval intellectuals. The story had been realized its own literary value at almost every genres such as Chinese literature, novels, Gasa, Japga and Sijo etc. I focused on Gasa, Sijo and Japga among the genres in this article. First of all, I subjected to Wumiin-ga enjoyed in a area of boudoir culture from Gasa based on Chohan-gosa. I catch the meaning that the text has a characteristic that popularized history and normative ideology are mingled in through it. In the case of Sijo, I focused on the Sijo which Xiang Yu is appeared in because Xiang Yu has been most quoted person from people of Chohan-gosa. Xiang Yu was described as a strong man[hero] or a man who part with the beauty Wu. I understand that this point is caused by the theatricalized characteristic of the place where Sijo have been played. For the last time, Japga is played with the characteristic of stimulative reediting of the familiar normative ideology. Chohan-ga is based on contexts of former discourse eohan-yeonui but it was not plagiarized. Chohan-ga was organized for the way which attracted the interest of the public and stimulated the emotion of the public through using popular imagery or intensifying the sorrow.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.12
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• pp.1837-1847
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• 2008

The goal of this study is to express the image of chameleons-that change their colors by light, temperature and its mood-into the sexy styles of corresponding coquettish temperamental people in Wearable Art. The method used in this study was experimenting various production mediums, including creating the textured stretch fabric, in the process of expressing the conceptual characteristics of the chameleon in Wearable Art. The concept of the work was a concoction of 'tempting', 'splendid', 'brilliant', 'fascinating', etc. that highlighted the real disposition of the chameleon. The futuristic preference of the researcher was also implicated. "Comfortable" and "enjoyable" concepts via motions were improved with the its completeness. The point of the design and production is to express symbolically the chameleon in real life, analyzing its sleek body lines, conditional colors changing, outer skins and the cubic textures. The coquettish temperamental image, the conceptual image of the chameleon, was also expressed by implication into the whole work. The entire line of this work is body-conscious silhouette. It was symbolically selected to image the outline of the chameleon that has the slim and sleek body. The exposed back is intended to express symbolically the projected back bones of the chameleon. The hood of gentle triangle line expresses the smooth-lined head part. The irregular hemlines represent the elongated chameleon's tale. The chameleon with its colors of vivid tones is characterized the colors changing by its conditions. This point was importantly treated in the working process by trying the effects that the colors are seen slightly different according to the light and angles. The material was given the effect that its surface colors are seen different in lights and angles because of the wrinkles protruded lumpy-bumpy. The various stones of red and blue tones are very similar to the skin tones of the real chameleon, and their gradation makes the effect that the colors are visibly changed with each move. The textures of the chameleon were produced via the wrinkle effect of smoke-shape, which is the result of using the elastic threads on the basic mediums stitched with 50/50 chiffon and polyester along with velvet dot patterns. The stretching fabric by the impact of the elastic threads is as much suitable for making the body-conscious line. The stones are composed of acrylic cabochon and gemstone. They are symbolically expressed the lumpy and bumpy back skin of the chameleon and produced the effect of the colors visibly different. The primary technique used in this dress is the draping utilizing the biased grains. The front body piece is connected to the hood and joined to the back piece without any seam. For the irregular hemline flares, leaving the several rectangular pieces with bias grains, they were connected by interlocking. What defines the clothes is the person in action. Therefore, what decides the completeness of clothes might be its comfortable and enjoyable feeling by living and acting people. The chameleon dress could also reach its goal of comforting and pleasing Wearable Art in the process of studying the techniques and effects that visibly differentiate the colors. It is considered as a main point of the Wearable Art, which is a comfortable enjoyable clothing tempered with the artistic beauty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.12
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• pp.1727-1738
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• 2002

세계화, 국제화, 개방화 시대에 살고 있는 우리가 통과의례나 전통 명절과 같은 특별한 행사에 의례복으로 한복을 애용하는 것은 한복이 한국의 문화적 이미지를 강하게 간직하고 있는 한국적 조형물 중의 하나이기 때문이다. 더우기 의례복은 특별한 행사 자체를 위해 착용되었던 만큼 당시대의 내 적 가치를 가장 현저하게 표출하고 있는 복식으로 인정 할 수 있기 때문이다. 본 연구의 목적은 시대 적으로 현대 전통 한복의 기본 형 식을 제공한 조선시대와 그 이후의 복식 중에서 특히 분명한 착용동기와 목적, 복식을 통해 나타내고자 하는 상징성 등을 함축하고 있는 아동용 의례복을 대상으로 복식의 형태, 색채, 문양, 소재 등의 조형 요소를 고찰하는 것이다. 또한 양식적 특성을 살펴보고, 그러한 조형적 특성을 형성시킨 당시대의 사상적 가치를 추론해 보는 것이다. 구체 적인 연구 방법은 먼저 관련된 문헌 고찰을 통한 이론적 배경을 토대로 하여 아동용 의례복의 범주를 설정하고 현재 보전중인 실물과 또는 사진, 풍속화에 나타난 복식 자료들을 수집하였다. 그리고 당시대의 사상적 배경에 대한 고찰을 병행하여 이들에 내재된 문화적 가치를 추출해 보았다. 연구 결과 양식적 특징으로는 남아의 두루마기나 전복 그리고 쓰개류 등에서 기능성을 고려한 변형적 양식이 나타나고 있었다. 색채 역시 음양 보색이나, 오행색을 바탕으로 한 기본색의 구성 이외 에도 소매나 섶에 응용된 색의 배열이나 맞깃 전복의 깃에 나타난 색의 조화는 다양한 색의 조형미를 표현하고 있었다. 특히 색동 등에 나타난 오행색의 배열, 안감과 겉감, 상의와 하의, 외의와 내의에 사용된 색의 조화는 미의식에 관한 문화적 가치를 추론해 볼 수 있다. 더우기 장식 표현에 주로 쓰인 자연물 문양이나 글자 문양은 당시의 지배 사상이 지향하는 덕목 이외에도 전통적으로 내재된 수명과 복록, 부귀와 영화에 대한 내적 가치들을 반영하는 조형적 상징들이라 할 수 있다. 소재는 비교적 계절을 고려하여 사용되고 있었지만 의례적 성격을 지닌 외의나 쓰개류의 경우 계절적 구분을 고려하지 않은 경우도 많이 나타나고 있었다. 장신구의 경우는 많이 사용되는 것은 아니나 역시 상징적 인 가치를 표현하는 실물들을 미적으로 재구성한 사례들이 나타나고 있었다. 이상의 연구를 통해 아동용 전통 의례복은 형태, 색채, 문양, 소재, 장신구 등에서 양식의 다양성과 변형들을 알 수 있었다. 또한 적극적인 내적 가치의 상징들을 복식을 통해 표현하고 있었음을 알 수 있었다. 현대 복식의 디자인에 있어 아동용 의례복에 나타난 창조적인 양식의 변형과 다양성 그리고 복식을 통한 내적 가치의 반영 등이 현대 사회와 조화를 이룬 실질적인 복식 디자인 제시 및 창작에 작은 영감으로 작용하길 바란다.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.667-673
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to obtain drape information and objective texture of fabrics easily and quickly by using a constructed fabric database. For the construction of the fabric database, 287 woven fabrics were examined by using the CLO fabric kit, KES-FB system, and drape test system. The k-means cluster analysis method was used to classify the fabrics into 7 grades. After correlation analysis of the fabric properties for each experiment, similar properties of the CLO fabric kit and KES-FB system were chosen, which were then designed to extract similar fabrics from the database. It was confirmed that inferring the drape information and objective hand feeling of fabrics was to some extent possible by extracting similar fabrics from the database. In this study, the primary hand and total hand value(THV) of KES-FB system, which was constructed by Kawabata and other experiments, were used to quantify the objective hand feeling, because they are the most widely used. However, these standards can be changed over time; in order to be applied within the clothing industry, these standards may have to be changed to some extent. Moreover, it is notable that although objective hand feeling cannot be expressed in the 3D virtual costume program, it can be easily derived from the constructed database. Additionally, it is expected that the existing 3D virtual costume program will express the costumes more realistically by improving these results.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.12 s.148
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• pp.1554-1561
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• 2005

This study aims to analyze modern hairstyle and fashion in the collections in the late 1990s, based on the concepts and characteristics of Minimalism, a buzzword of the art field in the 1960s. This study used qualitative research method, in other words, presenting an analysis framework by studying domestic and foreign books and dissertations on Minimalism and then applying the Internet or visual image to the analysis framework. The result indicates that Minimalism design in modem hairstyle and fashion has four characteristics: simplicity, unity, repetition and spatiality.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.225-236
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• 1996

Computer simulation methods for three area of textile design, wearing, and design were developed by using CAD system, and its results were applied to pattern design simulation. Textile design created by using the CAD system was applied to T-shirt schematization. Created wearing, printing, and knitting design respectively were applied to women clothing, children's wear, and men sweater. In this rearch, several equipped since various color working, materials, pattern development and swift intention decision of goods direction are possible on the moniter. Third, many goods order are rushed within short time because spot direction are possible on the moniter. Third, many goods order are rushed within short time because intention decision of buyer could be induced and embodied design almost reflection the buyer's will on the spot before production of goods and samples. Forth, time and expense were saved to get the information in terms of design information systematically and could be managed annually. Fifth, creative design development can be not only availed but saved the service expense of outside orders and the traffic expense.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.209-216
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• 1998

The results of the study of diving the 21st century's Korea fashion market into consumer market, fashion market, and a new marketing strategy are as follows. The 21st consumer market is First, a fashion democracy phenomenon. As many people try to leave unconditional fashion following, consumer show a phenomenon to choose and create their own fashion by subjective judgements. Second, a phenomenon of total fashion pursuit. Consumer in the future are likely to put their goals not in differentiating small item products, but considering various fashion elements based on their individuality and sense of value. Third, world quality-oriented. With the improvement of life level, it accomplishes to emphasize consumers' fashion mind on the world wide popular use of materials, quality, design and brand image. Fourth, with the entrance of neo-rationalism, consumers show increasing trends to emphasize wisdom, solidity in goods strategy pursuing high quality fashion and to demand resonable prices. Fifth, concept-oriented. Consumers are changing into pursuing concept appropriate to individual life scene. Prospecting the composition of the 21st century's fashion market, First, sportive casual zone will draw attention more than any other zone. This is because interest in sports will grow according to the increase of leisure time and the expasion of time and space in the 21st century, and also ecology will become the important issue of sports sense because of human beings's natural habit toward nature. Second, the down aging phenomenon will accelerate its speed as a big trend. Third, a retro phenomenon, a concept contrary to digital and high-tech, will become another big trend for its remake, antique, and classic concept in fashion market with ecology trend. New marketing strategy to cope with changing fashion market is as follows. First, with the trend of borderless concept, borders between apparels are becoming vague, for example, they offer custom-made products to consumers. Second, as more enterprises take the way of gorilla and guerrilla where guerrillas who aim at niche market show up will develop. Basically, they think highly of individual creative study, and pursue the scene adherence with high sensitiveness. However this polarization becomes mutually-supplementing relationship showing gorilla's guerilla movement, and guerilla's gorilla high-tech. Third with the development of value retailing, enterprises pursuing mass merchandising of groups called category killers are expanded and amplified to new product fields, and expand business' share. Fourth, using outsourcing, the trend to use exterior function leaving each enterprise's strength by inspecting its own work is gradually strong. Fifth, with the expansion of none store sale, the entrance of the internet and the CD-ROM sales added to communication sales such as catalogues are specified. An eminent American think tank expect that 5-5% of the total sale of clothes and home goods in 2010 will be done by none store sale. Accordingly, to overcome the problems, First international, global level marketing, Second, the improvement of technology, Third, knowledge-creating marketing are needed.

• Korean Journal of Environmental Biology
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• v.39 no.1
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• pp.119-135
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• 2021

Korea has stepped up efforts to investigate and catalog its flora and fauna to conserve the biodiversity of the Korean Peninsula and secure biological resources since the ratification of the Convention on Biological Diversity (CBD) in 1992 and the Nagoya Protocol on Access to Genetic Resources and the Fair and Equitable Sharing of Benefits (ABS) in 2010. Thus, after its establishment in 2007, the National Institute of Biological Resources (NIBR) of the Ministry of Environment of Korea initiated a project called the Korean Indigenous Species Investigation Project to investigate indigenous species on the Korean Peninsula. For 15 years since its beginning in 2006, this project has been carried out in five phases, Phase 1 from 2006-2008, Phase 2 from 2009-2011, Phase 3 from 2012-2014, Phase 4 from 2015-2017, and Phase 5 from 2018-2020. Before this project, in 2006, the number of indigenous species surveyed was 29,916. The figure was cumulatively aggregated at the end of each phase as 33,253 species for Phase 1 (2008), 38,011 species for Phase 2 (2011), 42,756 species for Phase 3 (2014), 49,027 species for Phase 4 (2017), and 54,428 species for Phase 5(2020). The number of indigenous species surveyed grew rapidly, showing an approximately 1.8-fold increase as the project progressed. These statistics showed an annual average of 2,320 newly recorded species during the project period. Among the recorded species, a total of 5,242 new species were reported in scientific publications, a great scientific achievement. During this project period, newly recorded species on the Korean Peninsula were identified using the recent taxonomic classifications as follows: 4,440 insect species (including 988 new species), 4,333 invertebrate species except for insects (including 1,492 new species), 98 vertebrate species (fish) (including nine new species), 309 plant species (including 176 vascular plant species, 133 bryophyte species, and 39 new species), 1,916 algae species (including 178 new species), 1,716 fungi and lichen species(including 309 new species), and 4,812 prokaryotic species (including 2,226 new species). The number of collected biological specimens in each phase was aggregated as follows: 247,226 for Phase 1 (2008), 207,827 for Phase 2 (2011), 287,133 for Phase 3 (2014), 244,920 for Phase 4(2017), and 144,333 for Phase 5(2020). A total of 1,131,439 specimens were obtained with an annual average of 75,429. More specifically, 281,054 insect specimens, 194,667 invertebrate specimens (except for insects), 40,100 fish specimens, 378,251 plant specimens, 140,490 algae specimens, 61,695 fungi specimens, and 35,182 prokaryotic specimens were collected. The cumulative number of researchers, which were nearly all professional taxonomists and graduate students majoring in taxonomy across the country, involved in this project was around 5,000, with an annual average of 395. The number of researchers/assistant researchers or mainly graduate students participating in Phase 1 was 597/268; 522/191 in Phase 2; 939/292 in Phase 3; 575/852 in Phase 4; and 601/1,097 in Phase 5. During this project period, 3,488 papers were published in major scientific journals. Of these, 2,320 papers were published in domestic journals and 1,168 papers were published in Science Citation Index(SCI) journals. During the project period, a total of 83.3 billion won (annual average of 5.5 billion won) or approximately US $75 million (annual average of US $5 million) was invested in investigating indigenous species and collecting specimens. This project was a large-scale research study led by the Korean government. It is considered to be a successful example of Korea's compressed development as it attracted almost all of the taxonomists in Korea and made remarkable achievements with a massive budget in a short time. The results from this project led to the National List of Species of Korea, where all species were organized by taxonomic classification. Information regarding the National List of Species of Korea is available to experts, students, and the general public (https://species.nibr.go.kr/index.do). The information, including descriptions, DNA sequences, habitats, distributions, ecological aspects, images, and multimedia, has been digitized, making contributions to scientific advancement in research fields such as phylogenetics and evolution. The species information also serves as a basis for projects aimed at species distribution and biological monitoring such as climate-sensitive biological indicator species. Moreover, the species information helps bio-industries search for useful biological resources. The most meaningful achievement of this project can be in providing support for nurturing young taxonomists like graduate students. This project has continued for the past 15 years and is still ongoing. Efforts to address issues, including species misidentification and invalid synonyms, still have to be made to enhance taxonomic research. Research needs to be conducted to investigate another 50,000 species out of the estimated 100,000 indigenous species on the Korean Peninsula.