• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.561-568
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• 2020

Wave measurements using X-band radar have many advantages compared to other wave gauges including wave-rider buoy, P-u-v gauge and Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP), etc.. For example, radar system has no risk of loss/damage in bad weather conditions, low maintenance cost, and provides spatial distribution of waves from deep to shallow water. This paper presents new methods for estimating significant wave heights of X-band marine radar images using Artificial Neural Network (ANN). We compared the time series of estimated significant wave heights (Hs) using various estimation methods, such as signal-to-noise ratio (${\sqrt{SNR}}$), both and ${\sqrt{SNR}}$ the peak period (TP), and ANN with 3 parameters (${\sqrt{SNR}}$, TP, and Rval > k). The estimated significant wave heights of the X-band images were compared with wave measurement using ADCP(AWC: Acoustic Wave and Current Profiler) at Hujeong Beach, Uljin, Korea. Estimation of Hs using ANN with 3 parameters (${\sqrt{SNR}}$, TP, and Rval > k) yields best result.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2019.05a
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• pp.119-120
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• 2019

In order to verify the accuracy of wave measurement of the wave instrumentation system using X-band navigation radar, The validity of the results was obtained by analyzing the significant wave height around Ulleungdo. Especially, The correlations between the radar, wave height buoy and marine buoy for wave measurements were analyzed in season.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.1-19
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• 2018

In order to compare significant wave height (SWH) data from multi-satellites (GFO, Jason-1, Envisat, Jason-2, Cryosat-2, SARAL) and SWH measurements from Ieodo Ocean Research Station (IORS), we constructed a 12 year matchup database between satellite and IORS measurements from December 2004 to May 2016. The satellite SWH showed a root mean square error (RMSE) of about 0.34 m and a positive bias of 0.17 m with respect to the IORS wave height. The satellite data and IORS wave height data did not show any specific seasonal variations or interannual variability, which confirmed the consistency of satellite data. The effect of the wind field on the difference of the SWH data between satellite and IORS was investigated. As a result, a similar result was observed in which a positive biases of about 0.17 m occurred on all satellites. In order to understand the effects of topography and the influence of the construction structures of IORS on the SWH differences, we investigated the directional dependency of differences of wave height, however, no statistically significant characteristics of the differences were revealed. As a result of analyzing the characteristics of the error as a function of the distance between the satellite and the IORS, the biases are almost constant about 0.14 m regardless of the distance. By contrast, the amplitude of the SWH differences, the maximum value minus the minimum value at a given distance range, was found to increase linearly as the distance was increased. On the other hand, as a result of the accuracy evaluation of the satellite SWH from the Donghae marine meteorological buoy of Korea Meteorological Administration, the satellite SWH presented a relatively small RMSE of about 0.27 m and no specific characteristics of bias such as the validation results at IORS. In this paper, we propose a conversion formula to correct the significant wave data of IORS with the satellite SWH data. In addition, this study emphasizes that the reliability of data should be prioritized to be extensively utilized and presents specific methods and strategies in order to upgrade the IORS as an international world-wide marine observation site.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.42 no.5
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• pp.524-535
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• 2021

Rapid climate change and oceanic warming have increased the variability of oceanic wave heights over the past several decades. In addition, the extreme wave heights, such as the upper 1% (or 5%) wave heights, have increased more than the heights of the normal waves. This is true for waves both in global oceans as well as in local seas. Satellite altimeters have consistently observed significant wave heights (SWHs) since 1991, and sufficient SWH data have been accumulated to investigate 100-year return period SWH values based on statistical approaches. Satellite altimeter data were used to estimate the extreme SWHs at the Ieodo Ocean Research Station (IORS) for the period from 2005 to 2016. Two representative extreme value analysis (EVA) methods, the Initial Distribution Method (IDM) and Peak over Threshold (PoT) analysis, were applied for SWH measurements from satellite altimeter data and compared with the in situ measurements observed at the IORS. The 100-year return period SWH values estimated by IDM and PoT analysis using IORS measurements were 8.17 and 14.11 m, respectively, and those using satellite altimeter data were 9.21 and 16.49 m, respectively. When compared with the maximum value, the IDM method tended to underestimate the extreme SWH. This result suggests that the extreme SWHs could be reasonably estimated by the PoT method better than by the IDM method. The superiority of the PoT method was supported by the results of the in situ measurements at the IORS, which is affected by typhoons with extreme SWH events. It was also confirmed that the stability of the extreme SWH estimated using the PoT method may decline with a decrease in the quantity of the altimeter data used. Furthermore, this study discusses potential limitations in estimating extreme SWHs using satellite altimeter data, and emphasizes the importance of SWH measurements from the IORS as reference data in the East China Sea to verify satellite altimeter data.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.101-109
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• 2021

Wave observations using a marine X-band radar are conducted by analyzing the backscattered radar signal from sea surfaces. Wave parameters are extracted using Modulation Transfer Function obtained from 3D wave number and frequency spectra which are calculated by 3D FFT of time series of sea surface images (42 images per minute). The accuracy of estimation of the significant wave height is, therefore, critically dependent on the quality of radar images. Wave observations during Typhoon Maysak and Haishen in the summer of 2020 show large errors in the estimation of the significant wave heights. It is because of the deteriorated radar images due to raindrops falling on the sea surface. This paper presents the algorithm developed to increase the accuracy of wave heights estimation from radar images by adopting convolution neural network(CNN) which automatically classify radar images into rain and non-rain cases. Then, an algorithm for deriving the Hs is proposed by creating different ANN models and selectively applying them according to the rain or non-rain cases. The developed algorithm applied to heavy rain cases during typhoons and showed critically improved results.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.296-306
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• 2020

It has been reported that the wave heights measured by Wave and Tide gauges (WTG) have been underestimated, and thus it is important to improve its measuring accuracy for enhancing estimation of harbor tranquility. In this study, the significant wave heights from WTG were calibrated using measured data from AWAC and Waverider buoys moored at the same four locations with the WTG. It was observed that the product of significant wave height and peak wave period, HT, was not underestimated but linearly proportional between the measurements by two instruments. This linearity was applied to develop 3^rd order polynomial functions that best represented the relationship between HT and significant wave heights measured by WTG. These functions were then applied to calibrate the WTG significant wave heights that were lower than 0.7 m, the critical value established for the low waves in this study. The results showed that the linearity between the AWAC (or Waverider buoy) and calibrated wave heights were improved, and the magnitude of underestimated WTG wave heights were increased to be more realistic. The results of this study are expected to be effectively applied for other data sets obtained by WTG only, to increase the observation accuracy of WTG and to improve the estimation of harbor tranquility.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2022.05a
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• pp.233-233
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• 2022

최근 기후변화로 인해 집중호우 및 돌발홍수의 증가로 침수피해가 빈번하게 발생하고 있다. 마찬가지로 해안지역의 피해 또한 증가하고 있으나, 해안지역의 특성을 고려한 연구가 미비한 실정이다. 따라서 본 연구에서 해안지역의 특성을 고려해 폭풍해일로 인한 월파뿐만 아니라 강우도 고려하여 해안지역의 범람 양상을 확인하고자 하였다. 본 연구에서는 국내 해안지역에 대한 빈도별 폭풍해일과 강우로인한 범람 모의를 진행하였다. 우선, 수치해석 모형의 경계조건을 산정하기 위해 EurOtop(2018)의 경험식을 이용하여 월파량을 산정하였다. EurOtop의 월파량 산정 시 암석 옹벽이 아닌 콘크리트 옹벽으로된 경사식 단면으로 고려하여 계산하였고 산책로와 벽까지 고려하여 계산하였다. 경험식 계산을 위해 매개변수(유의파고, 여유고, 구조물의 조도계수, 구조물의 기울기 및 경사 등)를 조정하여 계산하였다. 이 중, 계산에 사용된 유의파고는 시나리오별 강우에 대해 SWAN(Simulating WAves Nearshore)으로 계산된 값을 활용하였고, 해안선을 두 부분으로 나누어 해안지역 각 지점별 파고값의 평균을 사용해 월파량 계산을 진행했다. 이때, 파고의 종류로 5% 확률의 파고, 평균 파고, 중앙값 파고, 95% 확률의 파고로 분류해 월파량 계산을 진행했고, 그 중, 평균 파고를 이용해 계산한 월파량을 수치해석 모델의 입력자료로 활용하였다. 시나리오별로 계산된 월파량만을 이용해 2차원 침수모형인 FLO-2D의 경계조건 입력값으로 사용하여 침수 양상을 표출하기 위해 Mapper와 ArcGIS를 이용하여 침수와 범람 양상을 확인하였다. 또, 다른 조건으로 시나리오별 계산된 월파량, 연구유역 해안 반대편에 위치한 산으로부터 유입되는 물의 양 그리고 해안지역 전체에 내리는 강우를 입력자료로 사용해 모의를 진행한 후 Mapper와 ArcGIS로 표출하여 침수 및 범람 양상을 확인하였다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.87-95
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• 2000

Spectral wave models are applied to the area of Kyung-gi bay with two different combinations. One combination assumes a constant tidal elevation over the whole region when applying the wave model to the area. In this case no tidal currents exist in any place. The other combination employs tide model as well as wave model so that tidal condition is defined at every computation time when wave modelling is carried out. Significant wave heights and wave directions are shown for these two cases. With these two different constraints of tidal variation, the results are checked and compared with each other. Both results are found significantly different from each other.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.178-189
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• 2004

For designing a reliable harbor, a methodology for estimating design waves of 97.5% operable harbor condition is suggested using long-term wave data. For a practical application of the methodology, a marine police harbor was selected as a site. Wave data used were collected from February 1993 to December 2003 at Jodo wave gage station in front of Pusan harbor. Joint distributions of significant wave height and significant wave period for specified wave directions were obtained and used to feed as input waves for parabolic mild-slope wave model. Results showed that input waves with significant wave height of 1.75 m, significant wave period off sec and wave direction E yield design waves height of 1.06 m at the site of interests, which is a 97.5% operable harbor condition. Wind waves generated inside harbor showed to be no effect on the design wave condition. Swells propagated from deep water into harbor are shown to be dominant effects on the design waves of operable harbor condition.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2013.06a
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• pp.118-119
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• 2013

마리나 시설 내 계류된 선박 및 레저장비를 악천 후 해상상태와 선박 운항에 의해 발생된 파로부터 장비 및 인명의 안전을 위한 파 제거 장치가 필요하다. 본 연구에서는 국내 각 지자체의 수요에 부응하고 시설 및 인명의 안전을 위한 소파 시스템개발을 목적으로 시제품 제작(설계, 해석, 수조시험 등 수행완료)하였다. 실해상 성능시험에서 항주파의 발생을 위해 시험선박 선정하였으며, 소파장치 전후의 파고계측 등을 위해 부가물을 계측하여 파고를 촬영 및 계측하였다. 개발된 소파장치의 실해상 시험임을 감안해 해상 주위의 조류, 풍속, 인근 해역에서 오는 파랑변형 등에 따른 파랑요소를 고려하여 시험하였다. 부소파제는 약 40~80% 의 에너지 감소율을 보였으며, 유의파고 조건에서 42%의 에너지 감소율을 보였다.