• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2003년도 춘계학술대회
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• pp.33-33
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• 2003

우리 민족의 고유 의복인 한복은 민족의 의생활 정서를 그대로 담아낸 우리의 전통 복식으로서 오랜 역사성을 가지고 있으나, 현대에 이르러서는 일상복이라기보다 예복 및 행사용 의복으로 입혀지고 있다. 이처럼 한복이 우리 일상생활에서 착용 빈도가 줄기는 하였으나 과거 경험과 눈대중에 의했던 한복제작에도 보다 체계적이고 과학적인 방법제시가 필요하게 되었다. 따라서 이러한 상황을 반영하듯, 실제로 한복구성을 위해 출간된 교재들은 최근까지 수십 종에 이르고 있으며, 이론과 실습을 겸한 패턴 제시와 함께 자세한 바느질 방법까지 설명되어 있어, 우리 옷의 구성에 문외한이던 학생들에게도 좋은 안내서가 되고 있는 것은 사실이다.

• 복식
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• 제58권9호
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• pp.1-17
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• 2008

One of features of fashion in Joseon period is culture of overlapping of several clothes. This culture appeared with Hapbong(合縫:sewing of several clothes as one) at late Joseon period and developed into simpler and more practical fashion culture. Hapbong is mainly identified at men's official uniform such as Jaebok(祭服), Jobok(朝服), Kwanbok(官福), Gugunbok(具軍服), and women's formal dress such as Wonsam(圓衫) and Dangeui(唐衣) which formed several clothes get to be a set. Such fashion was designed to maintain dignity and power while simple to wear. And It has the trace of overlapping visually on the collar, sleeve, breast-tie and others. Hapbong is attributable to thoughts of practical science, post-toadyism, modernization, renovated the system of clothing, and advanced sewing technique.

• 복식
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• 제60권7호
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• pp.74-87
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• 2010

Jeokgwan(翟冠, crown decorated with pheasant motifs) is a queen's ceremonial headdress during the early Joseon dynasty. It originated from Bong-gwan(鳳冠, crown decorated with phoenix motifs) worn by the Chinese empress. Bong-gwan(鳳冠) was originally various types of hairpins worn with the topknot hair style, such as Bongchae(鳳釵) Hwasu(花樹) Bakbin(博鬢), but during the Sung dynasty(宋, 960-1279) these ornamental hairpins were combined with the crown worn by the empress. Bong-gwan(鳳冠) worn during the Ming dynasty(明, 1368-1644) varied according to the wearer's social status and it was worn both by the empress and other court ladies. Jeokgwan(翟冠), one type of Bong-gwan(鳳冠) worn by the queens and princesses of Ming dynasty, was given to those of the Joseon dynasty as a gift until the early 17th century. According to the portraits and remains of China, when women wore the Jeokgwan(翟冠), they were supposed to place the crown onto the hair, and then, fix the crown to the hair by putting on gorgeous hairpins. The lower edge of the crown was wrapped around with Gu-gwon(口圈), which was decorated with kingfisher's feathers. There are several flowery decorations on Gu-gwon(口圈), and this style is similar to Daeyobanja(大腰斑子), a queen's ceremonial hairband during the late Joseon dynasty.

• 복식
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• 제63권7호
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• pp.176-188
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• 2013

This research examines embroidery panels of Hwarot belonging to the Victoria and Albert Museum (the V&A). There are a total of seven objects and are all disassembled into clothe pieces. They were classified into two groups according to their acquisition year. One group, four objects, was acquired by the Museum in 1920. Considering their materials, embroidery threads, techniques and formative characteristics of patterns, it can be assumed that the objects formed an original dress, Hwarot. Although they look very similar to the embroidery patterns of Hwarot belonging to National Folklore Museum of Korea, they are more finely embroidered with very thin embroidery thread that uses the Jarisu technique. There are some differences in used embroidery threads and embroidery skills between Hwarot artifacts of the National Museum of Korea and the V&A. The embroidery of the National Museum of Korea used thicker threads and longer (approximately 0.7cm) Jarisu stitch techniques. With these details, they would have been made in different time periods. Comparison of the V&A and Changdeok Palace' Hwarot objects show that their patterns' motifs are almost similar but the pattern units, expressions and embroidery techniques are different. Regarding the colors of their patterns, it is noticeable that the peonies are generally expressed in reddish and the lotus patterns are expressed in either bluish or purplish color. It seems that they are contrasted with red-colored flowers and show harmony between yin and yang symbolically. Three artifacts of another group were acquired in 1925. Two of them show patterns almost the same as those of the sleeves of Hwarot (no.33156, no.33158) in Chicago Field Museum collection. The pattern of the remaining object is very similar to Hansam of Hwarot (no.33158).