• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.552-563
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• 2019

Jackets are regarded as an element used to judge ideas and fashion trends for the age in which they are presented. This article analyzed recent tailored jacket fashion trends by categorizing jackets according to design elements. For this, design elements of tailored jackets were categorized into silhouette, collar and lapel, shoulder and sleeve, and decorative elements. We collected and categorized the changes of 491 jackets that have appeared in collections over the past 5 years. The results showed shoulder and sleeve changes (36.25%), silhouette changes (33.4%), lapel and color changes (12.6%), decorative element changes (11.2%), and no changes (6.5%). Jacket forms with changed shoulders and sleeves appeared as styles that have laterally or vertically expanded the shoulder and arm hole with the production of various sleeve forms. Silhouette changes were expressed through forms such as exaggerated silhouettes of oversized-clothing, silhouettes made through cutting or layering, and the polarization of length. Forms with a changed collar and lapel appeared with polarization trends in which lapels dramatically grow larger or narrower, diverse frontal adjustments using no-collar designs, and the utilization of shawl-collars; in addition, forms with changed decorative elements were expressed with layered decorations such as pockets or collar add-ons, adjustment changes using buttons, ribbons or zippers, and various trimmings. The analysis results show that modern female tailored jackets are being made to realize an exaggerated physical beauty of shoulder, sleeve and torsos to maximize decorative effects through new attempts in design.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권6호
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• pp.849-864
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• 2021

This study analyzed product conditions in terms of "size system," "clothing construction depending on fit," "details," "colors," and "prices," with an emphasis on young contemporary brands for spring/summer 2021, in order to provide basic data for the development of small-sized women's jackets. Out of 96 domestic and foreign brands, the study analyzed 254 small-sized jacket products from 23 brands that produce size-XS jackets. First, when examining the sizes for women's jackets, we found that 8 out of the 23 brands offer a size-XXS option. After conducting tree analysis to analyze the factors affecting the production of size-XXS, the study found significant results in the areas of "distinction between domestic and foreign brands" and "product price." Second, after categorizing small-sized women's jackets into 3 categories-fit-slim, basic, and straight-the study analyzed clothing construction elements depending on fit. This seasons mainly feature straight-fit's hip-line length jacket, a 4-panel pattern, and a panel without a waist dart. Third, the study, through the analysis of the colors of small-sized women's jackets, found a higher frequency of colors in the order of black (23.0%), white (13.3%), and beige tones (10.1%), with additional colors such as sky blue, rose pink, and aquamarine in production, which exhibit the senses of the seasons. Price analysis revealed that small-sized jackets constituted a price range at the mid-to-low end, as in ₩50,000-100,000 (30.3%), ₩100,000-150,000 (19.3%), and ₩150,000-200,000 (11.8%).

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.249-261
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• 2004

This research proves the ROM method (Range Of Motion), which has already been used in other countries, that measures the capacity of exercise and the adaptation of movement of functional garments for special purpose due to change of the height of basic sleeve sloper. Basically, the ultimate goal of the research is to improve the functional pattern design. Firstly, this research proves the proper application of ROM that is used for the evaluation of fitting test. Therefore, according to this research, the company is able to produce the sample that is appropriate to the various purpose for women garments and betters the evaluation of function of garments. Moreover, it suggests that the evaluation of fitting test satisfies the consumers who desire to try better garments and contributes to the competitions among the companies that bring more improvements to the fashion design.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제23권5호
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• pp.645-653
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• 1999

본 연구의 목적은 미국 신속대응시스템의 요소별 사용현황을 조사하고 도입업체와 미도입업체의 신속대응시스템의 요소별 수준을 비교하며 신속대응시스템 도입업체와 미도입업체의 기업규모 제품종류를 비교분석하였다 조사방법은 미국의 103개 의류업체를 대상으로 설문조살르 하였고 자료분석은 기술통계와 t-test Fisher's Exact test를 사용하였다 신속대응시스템의 4요소는 상품기획, 재고관리, 정보공유, 유연한 생산체계이며 각 요소는 단위기술의 조합으로 측정되었다 신속대응시스템을 도입하고 있는 업체들은 미도입업체보다 모든 4요소의 도입수준이 유의적으로 높았다. 신속대응시스템을 도입업체들은 유연한 생산체계 요소에 대한 도입수준이 가장높게 나타났고 재고관리 요소에 대한 도입수준은 상대적으로 낮게 나타났다 신속대응시스템 도입업체는 종업원 500명이상인 대기업규모에 여성복업체에 가장 높은 비율을 나타내었고 미도입업체는 종업원이 10-19명 정도인 중소규모에 유아동복에 가장 높은 비율로 나타났다.

• 복식
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• 제62권8호
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• pp.1-18
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• 2012

The purpose of the study was to offer in-depth understanding of the women's wear research trend in South Korea and thus to provide insights from the findings throughout the study to set appropriate directions for further development of women's wear related researches in the clothing and textile study area. The study considered research papers published by the 6 major apparel related journals listed on the KCI(Korea Citation Index) i.e. journals of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles(KSCT), the Korean Society of Costume(KSC), the Costume Culture Association (CCA), the Korean Society of Fashion Business(KSFB), the Korean Home Economics Association (KHEA) and the Korean Society for Clothing Industry(KSCI). A total of 380 research papers that were related with women's wear published from 2001 to 2010 were selected for the study and analyzed in the form of descriptive statistics using the SPSS Software ver. 18.0. The analysis was categorized according to the journals, years and research theme. The research themes were divided into various categories such as, clothing construction, textile science, fashion aesthetics and design, costume history and culture, apparel psychology and fashion marketing. The results derived from the research were: (1) the ratio of the research papers on the women's wear to the total papers published from 2001 to 2010 by the 6 subject journals was 380 to 6,815, i.e. 5.6% of the total papers; (2) journal of KSCT published the most women's wear research papers (N=149, 39.2%) and then the rest in order were the journal of CCA (N=69, 18.2%), the journal of KSC (N=68, 17.9%), the journal of KSFB (N=52, 13.7%), the journal of KHEA (N=39, 10.3%) and the journal of KSCI (N=3, 0.7%); (3) the proportions of the research themes for the women's wear study were in the order of the case study in marketing (N=135, 35.5%), body measurements and sizing systems in clothing construction (N=88, 23.2%), fashion design and aesthetics (N=83, 21.8%), pattern-making (N=63, 16.6%), and color study (N=11, 2.9%) and so on.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.5-17
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• 2002

This study aimed to investigate the relationship between ideal images of women and women's clothing fashion England between 1820s and 1850s. The age was divided into two periods, which were 1820-1836 and 1837-1850. During the first period, the ideal images of women were those of fairy, spirit, and angels, which were expressed by tight waist belt, wider and shorter skirt, top expanded sleeve, wide and flat pelerine collar, feather decoration, elaborate and curly hair style, narrow and light ballerina shoes etc.. During the second period, the ideal images for women were those of lady with modesty, quietness, and weakness. They were expressed by long and full skirt, tight or bulge over the lower arm sleeve, dropped sleeve, poke bonnet, body wrapping large shawl and sober color etc.. The result shows that the ideal images of women in 19th century England were concretely expressed by various clothing fashion including hair style, shoes, and decoration. This study sheds light on psychological, historical, and theoretical approaches to clothing.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.40-54
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• 2009

Many studies make us difficult for understanding the specific concept of NOW avant garde by misusing avant garde or by using the over wide-ranging concept. The purpose of this study is to define the concept of NOW avant garde fashion by analyzing its fashion and its paradigm characteristics, after considering modern avant garde fashion history. This study was used with bibliographic research as well as internet search of qualitative method for analyzing fashion show clothes since 2005 women's wear. The characteristics of NOW avant garde fashion are classified into plural deconstructivism, econonism that integrates the last avant garde factors with logical economics, and the aesthetic of Tech-Human. To conclude, the concept of NOW avant garde fashion is defined as the fashion expressing either the digital-hybrid images or the deconstructive images meaning elimination, unification or confinement, being pilled up one on another, bizarre connection, transposition, and distortion.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권5호
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• pp.655-659
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to investigate the somatotype variation & satisfaction with the fit of ready-to-wear for American women. For this study, questionnaires were administered to 192 American women in Louisiana State areas. Employing a sample of 127 data were analyzed by using F-test. The results were as follows: In the satisfaction with the somatotype variation of American women, height items were increased and width items were decreased with aging. At neck, bust, waist, hip and sleeve circumferences, in the satisfaction with the fit of ready-to-wear, were decreased with aging, Correlation for somatotype variation & satisfaction with the fit of ready-to-wear was significantly positive. With aging, the satisfaction with the somatotype & fit of American women's ready-to-wear for sizing system was generally decreased.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제23권8호
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• pp.1131-1138
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• 1999

The objective of this study was to investigate the relationship between women's clothing westernization and the economic development in Korea. The data were obtained for the Korean women's clothes and analyzed by the linear regression method. The results were as follows: First western clothing style was adopted first for the street wear and then for the casual home wear. Second the per capita GNP as a proxy of the economic development was shown to affect the weaternization of Korean women's clothing significantly. The Korean treditional clothing was disappeared as the per capita income went up. These results support previous anthropological studies on the westernization and the economic development following industrialization. Also this quantitative study shows one way to prove Bell's hypothesis and will be of use to the economists as well as the clothing researchers.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.634-646
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• 2007

The aim of his study is to understand the developed aspect and proportions of the exotic images. Thus, this analyzed the exotic images in domestic fashion brand items as an relevance with fashion trend information. The exotic images are in the order of 'ethnic', 'retro', artistic', 'elegance', 'primitive', 'seductive', 'folklore', 'extreme hybrid', 'romantic', 'natural', 'splendid', 'bohemian', 'classical', 'kidult', 'modern', 'traditional', 'vintage' expressed in domestic fashion goods by the categories of its key-words expressed fashion trend information, and suitable for the fashion trend in 21C and fashionable for goods in the domestic fashion market by expressing the racial costume images and retro look, the maximized women's elegance, the difference images with an humor and unfamiliarity.