• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.40-54
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• 2009

Many studies make us difficult for understanding the specific concept of NOW avant garde by misusing avant garde or by using the over wide-ranging concept. The purpose of this study is to define the concept of NOW avant garde fashion by analyzing its fashion and its paradigm characteristics, after considering modern avant garde fashion history. This study was used with bibliographic research as well as internet search of qualitative method for analyzing fashion show clothes since 2005 women's wear. The characteristics of NOW avant garde fashion are classified into plural deconstructivism, econonism that integrates the last avant garde factors with logical economics, and the aesthetic of Tech-Human. To conclude, the concept of NOW avant garde fashion is defined as the fashion expressing either the digital-hybrid images or the deconstructive images meaning elimination, unification or confinement, being pilled up one on another, bizarre connection, transposition, and distortion.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권4호
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• pp.62-82
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate the Avant-garde's aesthetic values and expressoinal characteristic, and to find out(analysis) the design characteristic of Avant garde fashion since 1995. Expressoinal characteristics of Avant garde with the anti-aesthetic, radically pursuing newness, and open mind, are revealed dynamism, hostile innovation, and experimentalism. Futuristic images expressed in dynamism represent space style, body conscious style, cyborg style, kinetic style, and primitive style. And deconstructional images related to hostile innovation show punk style, grunge style, humor style, and abstractive style. Also surreal images related to experimentalism hold erotic style, depasemant style, deformation style, and collage style. The proper usage of newness offers the escape, the vividness, and the humour from the fatigue of the life and so, it is expected to offer the chance of transfering the active individuals and societies directly or indirectly By analyzing the instances for the images of avant-garde fashion since 1995, the contribution about the expectation of the design trends of the present and future is expected.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2004년도 The 21st International Costume Congress
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• pp.374-375
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• 2004

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.970-980
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• 2011

As a type of intimate architecture, fashion has always mediated the dialogue between clothes and the body, or fashion and figure. This study seeks to inquire the current aesthetic consciousness of the body and dress in Japanese avant-garde fashion and intends to research the features and meanings in the pastiche of Western sartorial convention in Japanese avant-garde fashion in order to examine the changing aesthetic attitude in postmodern fashion. The study investigates subjects of the fashion collections of the turn of the twenty-first century, when pastiche strategies frequently appeared in Japanese avant-garde fashion, through the methodology of literature research and case analysis. The results of the study are as follows: by developing the strategy of pastiche, Japanese avant-garde fashion exposes the defectiveness of the Western idea of the idealized and standardized body for mass productions, thus freeing design from its traditional confinement to the human body. Drawing on the re-conceptualization of the sartorial convention of Western tradition, Japanese avant-garde fashion designers tend to experiment with extreme exaggeration in form, refusing to subscribe to the traditional Western values built on the balance and symmetry of the body. Through the combination of the past and the present as well as the inner-wear as outerwear strategy, the historical pastiche challenges convention and symbolism, which results in the discord between signifiant and signifi$\acute{e}$ of clothing.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.1-20
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• 2017

Fashion film has become a significant communication medium in the $21^{st}$ century. Fashion film, that tells unique quality stories, is a means of communicating brand value emotionally. To examine characteristics of storytelling according to types of fashion film, this study categorizes fashion film and investigates storytelling elements in terms of content, form, and communication. For methodology, a literature review was conducted to examine the concept of storytelling and types of fashion film storytelling. Empirical research was conducted on 32 fashion films from 2007 to recent years of 2017. Results are as follow. First, theatrical fashion film, based on linear narrative structure and closed-ending, is characterized content-based storytelling. Second, avant-garde fashion film, based on unconventional and experimental cinematic techniques, is characterized form-based storytelling. Finally, documentary fashion film that minimizes distortion and reproduces reality of designers' originality, refers to interactive communication-based storytelling which using digital technologies.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.41-52
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• 2022

Since the dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991, the Russian public has been rapidly adapting to belated globalization, consistent with the ever-changing market economy. The purpose of this study was to investigate the social background and modern fashion of Russia after the collapse of the Soviet system and consider the characteristics of modern Russian fashion that have emerged in various ways amid the social changes. This study has significance in expanding the breadth of understanding the rapidly growing modern Russian fashion by considering modern Russian fashion and preparing the foundation while filling the need for research on the Russian fashion market, which has great potential. In the scope of the study, we investigated fashion from the post-2000s, when consumption began in earnest after Russia suffered a period of social and economic turmoil and switched to a liberalistic economy in 1991, to the present. In addition, we conducted an analysis focusing on the works of fashion designers who came from Russia and actively participated in work activities in Russia or abroad. Russian fashion designers reflect the unique cultural characteristics of Russia in their designs and incorporate Russian art into their designs to represent new fashion. Through continuous attempts for creative fashion design, modern Russian fashion will be developed in more diverse ways in the future. Thus, a follow-up study using various approaches to Russian fashion is needed.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.540-551
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• 2019

This study analyzes a new fashion phenomenon for critical fashion. Critical fashion is a message-centered fashion that delivers consciousness and sociocultural issues for contemporary society. The research method for this study combined literature reviews and case studies along with a research scope, that reviewed aspects of critical fashion through works, presentations, and images of collections, various media, and joint projects from the 2000s to the present day. This study indicates that critical fashion exhibits a conceptual pattern that metaphorically expresses the message of designers' perspectives on society and the fashion system. Critical fashion designers' socially critical messages began to emerge in avant-garde fashion influenced by avant-garde art movement that then developed into a conceptual fashion heavily influenced by conceptual art movement before it evolves into concepts of critical fashion. Critical fashion has been influenced by community-oriented critical art, which signifies that the characteristic of criticism of an art system is expressed through the language of fashion. In conclusion, critical fashion resists the idea of the integration of a cultural industry whose homogeneity is continuously collapsing the differences for the purpose of consumption and challenges to the established fashion system.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제44권3호
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• pp.413-426
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• 2020

This study researches the association between associative vocabulary and fashion image language in order to extract ideas that can be used as basic data for design ideas. Classic - avant-garde imaged language were chosen as theme words and each 70 questionnaires per a final image word were used for analysis. We obtained the following results by researching keywords that explained classic image words through a word cloud technique. It was found to have high central representation in the order of suit, classical, basic, music, Chanel, black and traditional. The core key words explaining avant-garde image language were found to have a central representation in the order of : peculiar, huge, Comme des Garçons, artistic, creative, deconstruction and individuality. We extracted the necessary idea dimensions needed for design ideas through associative network graph analysis. In the case of classical image language, it was named as the Mannish Item, Music, Modern Color, and the Traditional Classicality dimensions. In the case of avant-garde image language, it was named as the Key Image, Artistic Aura, Key Design and Designers dimensions.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제45권4호
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• pp.727-739
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to present the objective evaluation semantic scale of avant-garde design. Apparel majors were asked to express associative vocabulary, design development, and final design intentions for the avant-garde, and the final 70 copies were used for analysis. The results found the item style was shown often in the order of dress, coat, and combination of shirt and pants. In order, the silhouettes appeared as atypical, complex, square, and triangular; the decorations appeared as feathers, frills, and round sculptures; and the idea method appeared as extreme, association, and removal method. In examining the relations of associative words and idea designs, the dress had relations with associative words such as 'peculiar,' 'futuristic,' 'fancy,' 'Comme des Garcons,' and 'deconstruction.' As for the relationship between the idea design and the expression image vocabulary, it was found that 'one piece' recalled 'huge,' 'volume,' 'abundant,' 'peculiar,' and 'unknown,' while 'coat' recalled 'huge,' 'big silhouette,' and 'padding.' In conducting the word cloud technique, the overall design showed the central keywords were 'huge,' 'big silhouette,' 'unbalance,' 'feather,' 'structural,' 'unknown,' and 'frill,' in order.

• 복식
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• 제56권1호
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• pp.106-120
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• 2006

Using aesthetics of Rosencranz as the basis, this study contains the peculiarities of 'ugliness' and the obscured conceptual meaning of 'avant-garde', 'grotesque', and 'decadence' that are being utilized under ambiguous significance are defined through modern fashion and fashion of online game characters. Forms of 'ugliness' expressed in modern fashion and in games characters display distortion of form through incongruity, unbalance, disproportion and disharmony, and with this lack of form and expressional imprecision, both contain the elements of comical characteristics of vulgarity and repugnance. The difference in 'ugliness' between modern fashion and game character fashion is, the significance of 'ugliness' being expressed in modern fashion challenges new concepts by refusing tradition and recovering the human nature that has become turbid. On the other hand, 'ugliness' in game character fashion complements the story of the game that uses legends, fantasies or novels as its basis. Opposed to the significance of recovering human nature that is displayed in modern fashion, in order to terminate the opposing game character, the fashion of game characters exaggerates the form of modern fashion with added brutality. In addition, with the advantage of virtual reality that allows a more flexible expression than in the real word, images created are more sensational and excessive use of grotesque images are being expressed.