• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.105-112
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• 2017

A string wallcovering is a kind of textile wallcovering which is made of cellulose fiber yarn laminated on base paper. Compared with normal paper or PVC wallpaper, a string wallcovering is preferred continually in the interior design market, as it is not only environmentally friendly but it also has less cost on mass production without the weaving process and has a natural visual effect, excellent functionality such as thermo keeping, permeability, sound absorption. However, in the dyeing process, it is not appropriate to use plenty of energy such as water, electricity, steam or chemicals considering the environmental trend and the government policy plenty of energy such as water, electricity, steam or chemicals. Currently, a string wallcovering is made of raw white yarn and padding with direct dye or pigment which includes toxic elements, especially the use of direct dye is restricted in a part of the developed country due to inclusion of azo. In this study, we researched dyeing based on cold pad batch dyeing of a string wallcovering with reactive dyestuff. The peel strength and bending depth test confirmed that the optimum adhesive type and spread amount improved the water resistance of the string wallcovering. Also, pad batch dyeing with optimum reactive dyestuff enhanced the color fastness to light and rubbing in dry and wet conditions. Additionally, for improvement of color fastness to rubbing in a wet condition, the additional treatment finishing without soaping process which is used water. The results of this study can be used as basic data for environmentally friendly and energy saving of the textile wallcovering.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.92-101
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• 2007

This research was carried out following the preceding research on natural cellulose fabrics dyed with extract of fresh african marigold petals. Dyeability on fabrics was tested by dyeing with wool and silk which are natural protein fibers. Dyeing tests were carried out under different pH of the dye solution and mordants, examining the changes in the surface color, K/S value, and maximum absorption wavelength. The probability of improving dyeability was investigated by pre-mordanting with pre-treated chitosan. Wool fabrics showed color tone of medium or less saturation and brightness, in dark yellow color series. An orange color of high saturation was only obtained by tin mordanting. Wool showed higher K/S value than cellulose fibers. In summary, marigold dye has more affinity for protein fibers. It showed better dye effect in wool than silk. The chitosan pre-treatment and pre-mordanting lowered the K/S value of wool, which showed that chitosan pre-treatment does not improve dye uptake. However, different from the dyeing carried out by pre-mordanting without pre-treatment with chitosan, more diversified colors could be obtained by mordants. Therefore, for the dyeing natural protein fibers with marigold extract, post-mordanting does not require chitosan pre-treatment. However, pre-mordanting with chitosan pre-treatment could implement diverse colors. Considering its dyeing behaviors which are similar in both natural cellulose and protein fibers, african marigold extracts can be evaluated as a stable and highly practical dye.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.15-28
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• 2020

The purpose of this study was to develop and propose creative smart bags in emotional e-textiles using LEDs that inform smartphone users of motion-induced luminescence and ringing of cell phones. The LED light-emitting operation tasks produced in the study were applied to each of the three design smart bags, setting the five cases of luminance by a call initiated, absent phone, rejecting answering phone, texting, and motion-induced luminescence. In the male laptop bags of LED luminous images using wappen, 10 LEDs could be separated by a total of three pins to display the luminous mode, and all 10 LEDs became a total of five luminous patterns, including all that illuminate and those that illuminate randomly. E-wappen rendered the motif a strong sense of visibility and performed six roles on phone rings and texting. To develop a women's tote bag, we did a laser cut and attached the leather strips and placed 10 triangular LEDs to form a geometric LED e-textile. It provides the possibility of transforming simple design from traditional fashion into a more interesting and various smart designs. An entertainment smart bag using graphic design was constructed by applying a tilt sensor to look like a light in the night sky by shaking and moving the bag. The graphic design and composition of LEDs indicate that LEDs and fashion item are applied in harmony rather than heterogeneous, enabling them to be applied as fashion-oriented wearable smart products.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.108-118
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• 2003

Surface properties, including the texture and the luster, of cotton fibers and yarns thereof play an important role in textile technology. The convolutions and the cross-sectional shape of the cotton fiber affect the fabric texture and the luster accordingly. Mercerization of the cotton fabric affects the luster, strength, and other properties of the fabric. In this study, the effect of mercerization was examined on the luster of the cotton fabric, together with the effect of polishing treatment. One of the traditional methods determining the fabric luster is the use of glossmeter or goniometric glossmeter. The use of glossmeter gives successful results in determining the gloss of rather flat and continuous surface such as plastic sheet, painted surface, or paper products. Since the textile fabrics have diverse surface structures and textures, these could be regarded as having three-dimensional surface. Such complexity imposes some difficulties for differentiating subtle surface luster properties of diverse textile fabrics. The advancement in the area of imaging technologies has enabled the micro-scale analysis of the surface textures and the fabric luster recently. Using a CCD camera, the surface luster images were taken at various incident illumination conditions. Microscale analysis, including the blob analysis, of the images could differentiate the subtle luster properties present in a group of cotton fabric samples comprising mercerized cotton fabric, non-mercerized cotton fabric, polished cotton fabric, and a 'standard' cotton fabric. The glossmeter measurement gave satisfactory but limited differentiation among the samples, whose luster differences are easily recognizable with visual observation, except for the mercerized cotton fabric sample and the non-mercerized cotton fabric. The microscale analysis of the fabric luster could, therefore, help understand the nature of diverse textile fabric luster.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.159-173
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• 2021

This study attempted to investigate the perspective of the skirts of male and female students by analyzing the differences in image evaluation according to the constituent elements (type, length, and wearing method) of men's skirt designs in modern fashion. The study included 109 male and female college students from Generation Z residing or whose life center was in Gwangju Metropolitan City, to evaluate 12 images depicting types of men's skirts. First, the constituent image evaluation factors according to the constituent design elements of men's skirts were analyzed. Second, the differences in each constituent image evaluation factor based on the constituent design elements of men's skirt designs were analyzed. Third, the gender-based differences in image evaluation by men and women concerning the constituent design elements of men's skirt designs were analyzed. The analysis included relatively more women than men. The results of the image recognition dimension included the following categories: "attractive image," "evaluable image," "gender image," and "personality image." In modern fashion, skirts are used to express the diverse personalities of men's fashion. Thus, they are used beyond the stereotype of women's clothing, toward expanding and diversifying the image of men's clothing through mixing and creating a dichotomous image of men and women. It can be used as a design that suggests a gender-fluid image.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.59-69
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• 2022

Vyshyvanka, the embroidered folk costume shirt of Ukraine, originated during the early reign of the Slavs, and currently, it is also called Ukrainian embroidery. In cases of Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel elements, it is necessary to research formative characteristics for expanding the visual aspect through the diversification of techniques, but also the aspect of the psychological meaning to Ukrainians. This study aims to consider Vyshyvanka as a unique embroidery technique, and also analyze the formative characteristics expressed in apparel elements. The study of Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel elements can present meaning to understanding the Ukrainian fashion. The image materials for the analysis of Vyshyvanka design, included work photos contained in literary materials and foreign online visual materials. The results of formatively analyzing the Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel are as follows. First, the Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel elements held an incantatory meaning, protecting wearers from getting easily invaded by evil spirits. Second, the Vyshyvanka patterns utilized symbolism that implied the incantatory meaning. Third, a single color was used for the embroidery. Lastly, materials like cotton, that are easy to embroider, were mostly used. The formative characteristics of Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel elements implied the community spirit, nature worship, and folk beliefs. As an attempt to understand the Ukrainian fashion, this study is significant in the aspect of expanding, widely utilizing, and expanding the range of understanding of Ukrainian fashion. Therefore, there should be more active researches on Ukrainian fashion, so Vyshyvanka can be more widely used as a design element.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.6
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• pp.1052-1062
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• 2021

This study aims to confirm the possibility of Ultra-Violet (UV)-printed 3D printing materials using thermal polyurethane (TPU) with CMYK colors by applying an eco-friendly UV digital printing process. A UV-printed 3D printing TPU material was prepared with cycles of UV printing and CMYK colors. Dyeability of the 3D TPU samples with cycles of UV printing and CMYK were analyzed for thickness, weight, surface roughness, reflectance, colorimetry, and K/S values. The thickness and weight of 3D-printed TPU samples with cycles of UV printing are increased with overprints from 1 to 5. The surface roughness of 3D-printed TPU samples with increasing UV prints were decreased, meaning that the surface of TPU samples becomes gradually smoother. The reflectance spectra of CMYK UV-printed TPU samples showed the surface reflectance within each characteristic wavelength of CMYK. The 3D-printed TPU samples, subjected to UV printing twice or more, showed low surface reflectance. After examining the L^*a^*b^* of the 3D-printed TPU samples by the cycles of UV printing, the study found that the more UV got printed more than 2 times, the closer the color to each CMYK.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.93-107
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• 2023

This study aimed to design a knee brace with dry electrode EMS (Electrical Muscle Stimulation) for elite badminton players suffering from knee pain and assess its effectiveness in relieving pain and improving mobility. The assessment measured knee joint range of motion (ROM), Sargent jump height, and pain perception using a visual analog scale (VAS). Four experimental groups were established: stability, pain induction after 100 squats, muscle soreness induction with a regular knee brace, and muscle soreness induction with the EMS knee brace. The most suitable knee brace was selected from four samples to design the EMS knee brace. The conductive fabric was integrated into the inner surface of the knee brace to enhance EMS conductivity for the quadriceps muscles. Tensile strength tests showed that the dry electrode did not significantly affect the physical functionality of the knee brace.Regarding knee joint ROM and Sargent jump height, the EMS knee brace outperformed muscle soreness induction with a regular knee brace and wearing a standard knee brace. VAS measurements demonstrated that the EMS braces effectively alleviated pain perception in most cases. The results indicate the potential for developing EMS braces to alleviate pain and prevent injuries for athletes across various sports.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.93-106
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• 2023

The study is to develop and present a leggings pattern that is suitable for the human body by using a standard body type avatar for a female in her 30s. As a research method, the average body type was selected from adult women in their 30s, and the appearance was evaluated using the CLO software program. The data analysis of this study compared the dimensions and shape of each part by legging. The leggings pattern suggested based on the above research results was determine to be a total length of 80.6cm and hip length of 24cm, and the knee length was set by dividing the legging in half from the waist to the hem and then adding 5cm. These figures were evaluated higher than Company D in terms of the adequacy of the upper part of the front and rear plates of Company A as well as the adequacy of the knee lines. Company A's figures were applied and corrected. For the front plate, the waist circumference was divided by 4, and 3.5cm was removed, and the hip circumference was set by dividing the hip circumference by 4, and 3.8cm was removed. In the appearance evaluation results Company D was highly evaluated in the suitability evaluation of the waist and hips, and the waist and hips were set using the pattern of Company D. The length of the front panel was modified by dividing the hip circumference by 4 and adding 1.8cm to the length, and the length of the back panel was modified by dividing the hip circumference by 3 and adding 8cm after dividing the hip circumference by 0.8cm.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.232-246
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• 2024

This study examines options to revitalize a B2B textile trading platform, exploring user satisfaction and perceptions of the importance of several website features. Between June 8 and June 21, 2023, fashion studies majors and domestic fashion brand product planners were asked to use the website of an open B2B textile platform for 30 minutes and then evaluate its features by responding to a survey. The final sample for analysis wad comprised of 150 questionnaires. To analyze the key textile website features, a paired t-test, Importance-Performance Analysis (IPA), and multiple regression analysis were utilized. The analysis classified the key textile website features related to user importance and satisfaction into the following categories: convenience, appearance, product information, and uniqueness. An analysis investigation of the differences in importance and satisfaction for each website evaluation attribute found significant differences in 12 attributes. The IPA analysis revealed that attributes such as product reliability, quality, a convenient search function, and convenient page movement are highly important to users and garner high user satisfaction; these findings demonstrate the importance of maintaining these elements. Images on the main screen, the latest trend information, and product prominence attributes also garner high importance ratings, but result in low user satisfaction, which signifies extensive revision is required. Finally, user evaluation of the convenience, appearance, and product information of the website was found to affect user recommendation intention.