• Title/Summary/Keyword: 서양복식

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A Study on the Decoration of Men's Western Costume (서양복식사에 나타난 남성복 장식에 관한 연구)

  • Jeong, Hwa-Yeon
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.9 no.2
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    • pp.31-48
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of the this study is to make a historical review of changes in the structural decorations of men's costume from ancient times to modern times and to provide basic materials for developing handicraft decoration techniques and sewing methods in contemporary fashion. Their gorgeousness of collars and sleeves reached its peak along with the exaggerated expression of the human body during the Renaissance when people were free from Christian traditions of the Middle Ages and pursued human pleasures. Huge and decorative collars gave great dignity and formality to the wearer. Sleeves were slim and cuffs were small or nonexistent after the French Revolution. Various decorated pockets had been developed since pockets began to be attached to coats in the 17th century. Pockets were at the bottom of coat in the late 17th century, but they were gradually placed much higher on the coat. Buttons began to be used as the tool for sticking fast body to clothes in the 12th century and became extremely sumptuous accessories in the $16th{\sim}18th$ centuries. Men's clothes were simpler and more practical after the French Revolution. The result was that decorative buttons begun to disappear and metal buttons came out for practical purpose. The number of buttons worn on sleeves was also noticeably reduced. This research suggested the possibility that various decoration techniques could create the unique details in the each part of clothes. In order to develop high value-added products, we need to study various decoration-sewing methods and put to practical use them for creative fashion design.

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An analysis of symbols of animal patterns in oriental and occidental clothing - focusing on comparison of Buddhism- Confucianism and Christian cultural area - (동.서양의 복식에 표현된 동물문양의 상징성에 관한 비교 연구 - 유교적 불교문화권과 그리스도교 문화권과의 비교를 중심으로 -)

  • Lee, Yun-Jung
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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    • v.15 no.3
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    • pp.469-480
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    • 2006
  • Patterns in clothing symbolize some specific meaning that differs across cultures and religions, although patterns have been mostly used to realize human desires to overcome natural hazards in every culture or religion. This research aims to compare animal patterns of Korea (Confucian/Buddhism culture) with those of Byzantine (Christian culture), based upon a research method of literature survey. It is found through the research that both cultures used common patterns, such as dragon, butterfly, bat, honeybee, peacock, fish, and chicken. In the case of dragon patterns, Korea used it to symbolize emperor, dignity, or authority, while Byzantine used it for devil. Bat patterns had different symbolic meanings in both cultures: they mean happiness, longevity, prosperity or many off-springs in Korea while they mean misfortune or unhappiness in Byzantine. On the other hand, the rest of animal patterns, including butterfly, honeybee, peacock, chicken, had quite a similar symbolic meaning. Butterfly means change of life or beginning of new life in Korea, whereas it means resurrection in Byzantine. Honeybee symbolizes diligence, order, and cooperation. Many animal patterns were used in both cultures at the same time. Another difference can be found in terms of the kind of animals; for example, Korea used wild goose, pheasant, giraffe, deer, mandarin duck & turtle, while Byzantine used eagle, snake, pigeon. Of course, each and every animal has its own meaning, mostly positive. Except dragons and bats, both cultures have a similar meaning in most of animal patterns. Generally speaking, Korea used imaginary animals to pray for human happiness, but Byzantine used real animals to pray for resurrections.

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The Recognition of teachers and students on clothing department education in vocational high school (전문계 고등학교 의상과 교육에 대한 교사와 학생의 인식)

  • Jang, Ja-Kyung;Shin, Hye-Won
    • Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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    • v.21 no.4
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    • pp.71-89
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    • 2009
  • The purpose of this paper was to suggest effective management of clothing department in vocational high schools. Bibliographic research on ten vocational high schools' clothing departments was done. Also a survey was done to figure out what students and teachers think of clothing department education. The results were as follows. There are ten clothing departments in vocational high schools countrywide. 1493 students are enrolled in the department and they are taught by 51 teachers. Each school has two to seven laboratories. Professional subject time assignment of clothing department varies from 82 to 112 hours. Students chose clothing department in order to enter the university and their satisfaction on the department was "fair." Students' satisfaction level of professional education courses was "fair" and they felt difficulties both in theory and practice. Students answered that Embroidery/Knitting courses should be closed and Fashion Coordination be opened. Students were "fairly" satisfied with facilities for practice and felt job training was necessary. Most of them wanted to enter university after high school graduation. Teachers answered professional education curriculum was "fair." They found it necessary to improve the textbooks and felt both theory and practice difficult. They wanted Embroidery/Knitting courses to be closed and Fashion CAD course to be installed. From the teachers' view, students' prospect was better to enter university than to get a job. Teachers suffered from too much teaching-unrelated workload and wanted the number of teachers to be increased. Considering the above results, vocational high schools should concentrate their efforts on making students continue to study by extending the way to enter the same department of university as department of vocational high schools. In addition, they should develop various practice programs through field practice and educational-industrial relationship to help students get jobs. Both teachers and students think that the clothing department curriculum is difficult now. Therefore, the level of the curriculum should be adjusted. Finally, it was necessary to increase the number of teachers and to carry out teachers' training to raise quality in education.

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A Study on the African Image Expressed in 2005 S/S Collections (2005 S/S 컬렉션에 나타난 아프리카 이미지 연구)

  • Lee, Keum-Hee;Kim, Wan-Joo;Kim, So-Ra
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.31 no.6 s.165
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    • pp.911-922
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    • 2007
  • In this study, for the purpose of correct viewing on the image of Africa and understanding of modem fashion, African image and art, the general characteristics of African costume, the background of fashion subjecting African image, and the trend according to ages were examined based on theoretical background. Then the researcher drew African image by analyzing the works in four 2005 S/S major fashion collections to designers and design factors. The ten voted designers' and brands' works in 2005 S/S collections had four concepts of African image; 'Wild Erotic', 'Abstract Primitive', 'Natural Elegant' and 'Sporty Romantic'. The viewpoint of modem fashion on African image from the aspect of design, designer and fashion trend can be examined as below. First, African costume, which was religious and ceremonial, appeared to emphasize its esthetic side with decorative details in modem fashion design and designers competed to choose a method to harmonize tradition and modem style and by adopting these from occult to decorative meaning, Second, fashion designers presented city unpolished beauty of modem women to a special style and made african image to be recognized as a code of fashion culture by integrating it with modem people's mind to go back to the past and admiration for the purity of nature. Third, thanks to the instinctive vitality hidden in the primitive life, inspiration for creative design that is found in the esthetic mind of the Indians, foreign taste emphasizing ethnic trend, and admiration to naturalism due to the increase of concern over ecology, 'African image' led the beginning of 21C trend by being settled as a in fashion trend.

A study on Yang Shi Tai Chi Chuan in Bartenieff Fundamentals Perspectives (바티니에프 기본원리를 통해 본 양식 태극권에 관한 연구)

  • Wang, Zhiquan
    • Trans-
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    • v.8
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    • pp.95-127
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    • 2020
  • This research is based on using Bartenieff Fundamentals to analyze the fundamentals of Tai Chi Chuan's movements in order to develop the methods of relaxation from Tai Chi Chuan's principle movement movements It also shows that the two techniques have commonalities in many ways. First of all, taking a philosophical approach on the body movements of Tai Chi Chuan and Bartenieff, for both methods the ultimate goal is the integration of mind and body. In other words, there is a thread of connection between the East's body and mind monism and the west's Body Awareness. Secondly, looking at it from a Breath Support standpoint as used in the Bartenieff method, the two methods both use the breathing to naturally move the body and relax the body. In Tai Chi Chuan the Breath is the basis of life and the strength of the Body. So the breathing of Tai Chi chuan is what makes body and mind communicate, harmonize and integrate. In other words, Breathing in Tai Chi is realized through mental fusion and affects the movements. This is the same as the Breath Support of Bartenieff. It is said that in every aspect the Breath Support of Bartenieff influences the movement and changes both the inner and outer form of the body. Thirdly, looking at the Core Support used in the Bartenieff method, both methods emphasize core. At the same time of moving and being conscious of one's core, the usage of muscles can be deeper rather than superficial and this enables strong and flexible movement. In Tai Chi Chuan abdominal muscles used when one coughs are consciously engaged through abdominal breathing and so strength is collected in the core. When one exercises like that the core becomes more stable and breathing becomes more smooth. Fourthly, analyzing the Rotary Factor used in the Bartenieff Fundamentals, they both use rotary movement to reach the goal of physical relaxation. The rotation factor of Bartenieff allows movement to be easier and more free because of the characteristic of joint exercise where the center axis moved in three dimensions, this is the same in Tai Chi chuan. According to Tai Chi chuan's circle and Spiral Movements, it can achieve the relaxation through switching into a seamless flow and access space as much as possible. Finally, when looking at Developmental Patterning through Bonnie Bainbridge Cohen's Body-Mind Centering Work theory, presented from Bartenieff developmental model are similar with the developmental process of Tai Chi chuan Breath, Core-Distal Connectivity/Navel Radiation, Head-Tail Connectivity/Spinal Movement, Upper-Lower Connectivity/Homologous, Body-Half Connectivity/Homo-Lateral Connectivity, Cross-Lateral Connectivity/Contra-Lateral Connectivity. They are all similar. In other words, in Tai Chi Chuan energy is gathered in the core through breathing, upper and lower body are connected through the spine, not only homo-laterally but also cross-laterally. Through this study the expression of the dance movements can be more natural. Additionally based on the Body Awareness balance usage of the central axis, joints and body can develop the relax technique.

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