• 복식
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• 제55권5호
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• pp.78-86
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• 2005

Marek(말액) is the headgear, which is a form of hempen hoods[Geon(건)] and the origin of it is Pa(파) of band form. A history book of an old Chinese country Post-Han $\ll$ History of HouHan (후한서)$\gg$ had recorded that a soldier wore a red band around his head that was called Pa(파). In the Han dynasty(한대), Pa had been transformed into Chaek(책) or a kind of a hemp rap(건) while e headgear had still remained as the band form and called Marek from e Tang era(당). The literatures of the Tang era had referred the red Marek of soldiers, and other literatures of the later period had recorded that of the previous headgears of the band form were related with Marek. Since the Tang era, white or yellow Marek except red one fer soldiers had been were by soldiers, musicians, dancers and singers in Yuan(원) and Ming(명) of China. The colors was recorded in red on documents mostly, this red implicated soldiers for symbol of terror. This fart was documented in an old history book $\ll$The history of 25 Eras(이십오사)$\gg$, On the other side, a wall painting in Princess Jeonghyo(정효공주)'s tomb of the Parhae(발해) period described the portraits of twelve persons, and among them, two Siwui(시위) put on the red Marek. Quoted from the record of a history book of the Tang era system , a history book of Three Kingdoms(삼국시대) of ancient Korea $\ll$Samguksaki(삼국사기)$\gg$ described that four dancers of Kogryo(고구려) wore Marek on their heads with the costumes of Koguryo, one of those Kingdoms. In consideration that the book of $\ll$Tongjun$\gg$ was the literature of the Tang era so that Marek mentioned in this book was followed by their name, the Marek of Koguryo dancers shown in the history book $\ll$Samguksaki(삼국사기)$\gg$ might be a kind of Koguryo style hemp cap[Geon(건)]. The Marek of Parhae had succeeded to the headgear of Koguryo and the identity was on Koguryo.

• 복식
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• 제58권5호
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• pp.13-34
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• 2008

In Headgear and Ornaments for Diadem in the Period of the Three States there was Conical Cap(or Pointed Cap), Feathered Cap(Trim), and Crown[Tree-typed Diadem and Tree and Antler-typed Diadem] was excavated from the tombs. Feathered Trim is 5 types, Feathered Trim I-A, Feathered Trim I-B, Feathered Trim II-A, Feathered Trim II-B, Feathered Trim II-C in according to upper part of central insert plate style. Feathered Trim I-A, I-B, II-B type was general style that was found in most of the old tombs in ancient Silla, Gaya. Feathered Trim II-A type was excavated from the only Silla tombs and II-C type was excavated from Gaya tombs. The Ornaments for Diadem in Baekje was excavated from the tombs is adorned with a arranged leaf-stems on either sides and the flower-shaped. They were distinguished with the original mode of Goguryeo and ancient Silla at the time. Tree-typed Diadem is five part in according to the Mountain(;山)-typed piled up. Only one Mountain(;山)-typed one in three stand-up ornament(I-1 type), and three step one in three stand-up one(I-2 type), modification one (I-3 type), three step one of four and five stand-up ones(I-4 type), and four step one of four and five stand-up ones (I-5 type). Tree and Antler-typed Diadem is three part in according to the step of Mountain(; 山)-typed and cross-shaped of the upper part. Three one of three step one of Mountain(;山)-typed and two Antler- typed (II-1 type), cross-shaped one(II-2 type), four step one(II-3 type).

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.127-143
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• 2001

This thesis looks into the characteristics and compares the clothing styles between the Three Kingdom to the Unified Shilla era. The purpose of this study is to see what common themes exists between the foundation of Korean clothing and how it has evolved and through see to what extent the Chinese influence has been to Korean clothing culture. Also by explaining the originality and creativity of Korean clothing, we will be able to make clear the status of Korean culture. These findings include the following; 1. The Korean strait line Gik-ryong Kyo-im can also be found at the Gochang region in the west. 2. The Ban-ryong-ui, worn by the aristocrats of the Three kingdom and Unified Shilla era, began to appear from the nobles from the Nam-Buk cho(South-north era). This combined with a Bokdu(headwear) became a part of casual dress wear. 3. Go(pants) became a traditional part of clothing for Unified Shilla and the west. 4. Ban-bi and Bae-dang, all forms of Bansu-ui ( short sleeve), came from Chinas Kucha and Hotan and came to Korea. 5. Chinas Pae-baek and Pae-za (Shawl) which is the same as Unified Shillas Peo was also to be found to have come from the west. 6. The way a different color line was added to clothing both can be found in Korean and western clothing. Similarities to material used are; First, expensive wool was used and mostly originated from the west. From far away Rome came the O-saek-gae (Five-color wool). Secondly, Kong-gak me (peacock feather) and Bi-chi mo were all originated from the west. Third, Sil-sil is stated in the Sam-kuk Sa-ki (Three Kingdom records) as being prohibited to be worn by Jin-gol women (Highest nobility during Shilla era) as headwear or comb (pin) or as a comb(pin) for yuk-doo poom ( 6th class nobility) women. Suggesting that it existed and other sources tell us that it came from Tashkent region of Russia and was a jewelry of some sort. From what we have seen above, we can see the similarities between Korean and western clothing cultures and that these interactions not only occurred with China but with many other nations. We can see that our ancestors were creative and original that when importing foreign cultures that they transformed them into a Korean style. That these foreign cultures were transformed into our own style is good evidence to these facts.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.13-22
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• 2007

As the world has been forming the global village and the cultures of each country are exchanged, the unique cultural specialty of each country high been merged with the generality in the world. The increasing interest on the oriental world and the globalization recently brings the fusion form of oriental and occidental cultures. In such a global trend, it is our challenge to find out the traditional beauty and the design factors of Korea for the new challenge and development of Korean fashion and to develop the most Korean and global design by interpreting them in a modem sense. It is the Era of the Three States when an of official hat among the personal ornaments of Korea was firstly described on the literature, including the literature of ancient China and Chronicles of Three States and Heritage of Three States of Korea. Those literatures clarified that the people in Goguryeo Baekje, Silla and Gaya decorated themselves with gold, silver and jade. Furthermore, since various kinds of ornaments have been excavated, they shown the development of metal craft in the Era of Three States. This study aim to exploit the design motives among the gold crown elements among the ornaments during the Era of Three States, interpret them in a modem expression, develop the textile design using the Adobe photoshop and suggest the application approaches by applying them to the clothing design.

• 감성과학
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.83-100
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• 2019

본 연구의 목적은 오래전부터 한국인이 애용해 온 기본 도형을 분석하여 의미와 상징성을 밝히고 그 유형을 분류하는 것이다. 선조들은 원, 네모, 세모 형태를 선호하였는데 한글에 'ㅇ, ㅁ, ㅅ'가 존재하는 사실이 이를 뒷받침한다. 이를 위해 고조선부터 삼국시대에 이르기까지 복식과 유물 등에 나타난 기본 도형을 고찰하였다. 연구방법으로는 도서, 인터넷 및 사진자료 등을 분석하였으며 도자기, 청동기, 복식 등 다양한 곳에 나타난 도형의 연결고리를 찾았다. 그 연구결과 첫째, 원은 하늘, 해, 달, 별, 청동거울, 얼굴 등을 상징하는데 일찍이 천문관측이 발달했던 사실과 원형제단이나 제사장의 표징인 원형 청동거울이 이를 뒷받침한다. 둘째, 땅(地)을 상징하는 것은 네모라고 보았다. 하늘과 땅신에게 모두 제사를 지냈었고 네모는 부족 공동체의 안녕과 풍요를 담은 현실을 의미하는 형태이다. 마름모형이 더 많이 애용되었는데 이는 힘을 상징하는 세모가 두 개나 들어있는 형태이기 때문이라고 추측한다. 셋째, 빗살무늬 토기에서도 나타나지만 뫼 '산(山)'과 사람 '인(人)' 및 모자나 마늘의 형태 또는 나 '사(?)' 등으로부터 세모가 파생되었다고 보는데 하늘, 땅 다음으로 사람이 중요하다는 고대인의 사고에서 발생한 것으로 본다. 아름다운 유산인 기본 도형의 연구를 통해 한국역사의 오랜 전통과 정신을 이해하고 새로운 창조문화로 이어지길 기대한다.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제46권3호
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• pp.94-113
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• 2013

동관왕묘(東關王廟)는 중국 촉(蜀)나라의 장수 관우(關羽)를 모신 사당이다. 이러한 사당이 우리나라에 세워지기 시작한 것은 1598년 정유재란 때부터이다. 당시 조선에 파병된 명나라 장수들은 관우의 힘으로 일본의 침략을 막아내길 염원하면서 그들의 주둔지마다 관왕묘를 세웠다. 임진왜란이 끝난 후 중국 명나라 황제와 조선의 국왕은 외세를 물리치려는 의지로 관왕묘를 세우고자 하였다. 1599년 8월 조선 정부는 '동관왕묘조성청' 이라는 관청을 임시로 설치하고 인력과 물력을 총동원하였다. 명나라 기술자의 감독 아래 연 2,400명의 조선 장인과 역군(役軍)들이 중국 제저우(解州) 관제묘(關帝廟)를 본으로 삼아 영건하여 3년 뒤인 1602년 봄에 동관왕묘를 완공하였다. 한 중 기술자가 협력하여 세웠기 때문에 관왕묘의 정전 건축과 내부 구조 및 조각상에는 양국의 양식이 반영되어 있다. 이를 요약하면 다음과 같다. 동관왕묘 내부에는 7기의 조각상이 서 있다. 관우상 1기는 금동상이며, 나머지 6기는 소조상 위에 채색한 것이다. 이들 조각상들은 1602년에 만들어졌고, 관우와 그를 배위하는 관평(關平) 주창(周倉) 조루(趙累) 왕보(王甫)는 삼국시대에 실존했던 인물들의 초상조각이었다. 하지만 그들의 복식은 관우를 추숭하던 당송대에 확립된 도상을 따르고 있었으며, 세부적으로는 명대적 요소와 조선적 배치가 절충되어 있었다. 이로 미루어 송대 이후 확산된 <의용무안왕(義勇武安王)> 판화의 도상이나 명나라 만력황제가 1593년 조영한 제저우 관제묘의 명대 관우 도상이 동관왕묘를 제작할 때 직접 영향을 끼쳤을 것으로 여겨진다. 하지만 현재 동관왕묘와 비교되는 중국 제저우 관제묘의 경우 건축과 조각상이 모두 청대 18~19세기에 중건된 것이기 때문에 직접적인 비교는 어렵다. 오히려 그렇기 때문에 동관왕묘의 조각상은 17세기 초 한 중 관왕묘 중에서 제작시기가 가장 이른 예로서 당시의 원형을 지니고 있다는 점, 한 중 기술자의 합작으로 규모가 매우 크다는 점, 금동으로 만든 관우상은 유일하다는 점, 문무 배위상을 각 1쌍씩 마주 배열하여 조선왕릉의 석인 배치와 친연성이 있다는 점 등 여러 면에서 미술사적 가치가 매우 크다고 할 수 있다.