• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.320-333
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• 2019

In this study, a physics-based 3D morphology model for the estimation of an erosion rate of nourished beach is newly proposed. As a hydrodynamic module, IHFOAM toolbox having its roots on the OpenFoam is used. On the other hand, the morphology model comprised a transport equation for suspended sediment, and Exner type equation derived from the viewpoint of sediment budget with the bed load being taken to accounted. In doing so, the incipient motion of sediment is determined based on the Shields Diagram, while the bottom suspended sediment concentration, the bed load transport rate is figured out using the bottom shearing stress directly calculated from the numerically simulated flow field rather than the conventional quadratic law and frictional coefficient. In order to verify the proposed morphology model, we numerically simulate the nonlinear shoaling, breaking over the uniform beach of 1/m slope, and its ensuing morphology change. Numerical results show that the partially skewed, and asymmetric bottom shearing stresses can be successfully simulated. It was shown that sediments suspended and eroded at the foreshore by wave breaking are gradually drifted toward a shore and accumulated in the process of up-rush, which eventually leads to the formation of swash bar. It is also worth mentioning that the breaker bar formed by the sediments dragged by the back-wash flow which commences at the pinnacle of up-rush as the back-wash flow gets weakened due to the increased depth was successfully duplicated in the numerical simulation.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.65-70
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• 2009

The hybrid numerical model is developed by combining BEM that can calculate the wave motion rapidly under the potential theory and CADMAS-SURF that solves Navier-Stokes equations for the free surface variation near the structure, In the hybrid model the calculation of wave motion in a wide field of wave reflection for deep water area is conducted by BEM but for shallow water area by CADMAS-SURF. Especially the hybrid model can calculate random wave motions for long term period more rapidly with almost similar accuracy than the calculation of wave motion which was carried out by CADMAS-SURF only. In this study the coupling model was applied to the calculation of the strong nonlinear wave motion such as wave runup and overtopping at the coastal structure on the mild-slope bottom and the results of numerical model were compared with the Toyosima's experiments of regular wave runup and Goda's design diagram of ramdom wave overtopping, respectively.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.527-537
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• 2003

The characteristics of ship induced waves caused by navigation become widely different from both ship's speed and water depth condition. The ship induced waves specially generated in coastwise routes frequently give rise to call unforeseen danger for swimmers and small boats as well as shoreline erosion or sea wall destruction in coastal zones. The main concern of ship induced wave study until now is either how to reduce ship resistance or how to manoeuvre the ship safely under a constant water depth in the view point of shipbuilding engineers. Moreover, due to the trends for appearance of the high speed ships at the shallow coastal water, we are confronted with the danger of damages from those ship induced waves. Therefore, it is necessary to examine the development of ship induced waves and the influence of their deformation effects according to its propagation ray. In present study, in order to predict the development of the ship induced waves and their propagation under the conditions of complicate and variable shallow water depth with varying ship's speed, we constructed a computer model using Boussinesq equation with a fixed coordinate system and verified the model results by comparison with experimental results. Additionally, the model was applied under the variable water depth based on actual passage and we then confirmed the importance of the variable water depth consideration.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.409-422
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• 2019

In this study, we carried out the 3D numerical simulation to investigate the hydraulic characteristics of Synchronous Edge wave known as the driving mechanism of beach cusp using the Tool Box called the ihFoam that has its roots on the OpenFoam. As a wave driver, RANS (Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes equation) and mass conservation equation are used. In doing so, we materialized short-crested waves known as the prerequisite for the formation of Synchronous Edge waves by generating two obliquely colliding Cnoidal waves. Numerical results show that as can be expected, flow velocity along the cross section where waves are focused are simulated to be much faster than the one along the cross section where waves are diverged. It is also shown that along the cross section where waves are focused, up-rush is moving much faster than its associated back-wash, but a duration period of up-rush is shortened, which complies the typical characteristics of nonlinear waves. On the other hand, due to the water-merging effect triggered by the redirected flow toward wave-diverging area at the pinacle of run-up, along the cross section where waves are diverged, offshore-ward velocity is larger than shore-ward velocity at the vicinity of shore-line, while at the very middle of shoaling process, the asymmetry of flow velocity leaned toward the shore is noticeably weakened. Considering that these flow characteristics can be found without exception in Synchronous Edge waves, the numerical simulation can be regarded to be successfully implemented. In doing so, new insight about how the boundary layer streaming occur are also developed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.269-282
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• 2006

We numerically studied tsunami propagation characteristics through Korean Straits based on nonlinear shallow water equation, a robust wave driver of the near field tsunamis. Tsunamis are presumed to be generated by the earthquake in Tsuhima-Koto fault line. The magnitude of earthquake is chosen to be 7.5 on Richter scale, which corresponds to most plausible one around Korean peninsula. It turns out that it takes only 60 minutes for leading waves to cross Korean straits, which supports recently raised concerns at warning system might be malfunctioned due to the lack of evacuation time. We also numerically obtained the probability of tsunami inundation of various levels, usually referred as tsunami hazard, along southern coastal area of Korean Peninsula based on simple seismological and Kajiura (1963)'s hydrodynamic model due to tsunami-generative earthquake in Tsuhima-Koto fault line. Using observed data at Akita and Fukaura during Okushiri tsunami in 1993, we verified probabilistic model of tsunami height proposed in this study. We believe this inundation probability of various levels to give valuable information for the amendment of current building code of coastal disaster prevention system to tame tsunami attack.

• Journal of Convergence for Information Technology
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• v.10 no.10
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• pp.115-122
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• 2020

Due to the climate change, torrential rain downpours unprecedentedly, and urban areas repeatedly suffer from the inundation damages, which cause miserable loss of property and life by flooding. Two major reasons of urban flooding are river inundation and inland submergence. However, most of previous studies ignored the comprehensive mechanism of those two factors, and showed discrepancy and inadequacy due to the linear summation of each analysis result. In this study, river inundation and inland flooding were analyzed at the same time. Petrov-stabilizing scheme was adopted to capture the shock wave accurately by which river inundation can be modularized. In addition, flux-blocking alrotithm was introduced to handle the wet and dry phenomena. Sink/source terms with EGR (Exponentially Growth Rate) concept were incorporated to the shallow water equations to consider inland flooding. Comprehensive simulation implementing inland flooding and river inundation at the same time produced satisfactory results because it can reflect the counterbalancing and superposition effects, which provided accurate prediction in flooding analysis.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.468-477
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• 2019

The numerical model of Boussinesq approximation, which is mainly used for evaluating the port calmness due to the irregular waves, has a limit of applicability of lattice size in ports such as marinas with narrow port openings of around 30m. The SWASH model controls the partial reflection according to the depth, porosity coefficient and structure size when applying the reflected wave incident on the structure and terrain. In this study, the partial reflection evaluation at the front of the structure according to the bottom shape and the shape of the structure are examined. In order to evaluate the reproducibility of the model due to the diffraction waves entering the term, the area of incidence at right angles and inclination of the structure is constructed and compared with the diffraction theory suggested by Goda et al. (1978). The experimental results of the sectional structure reflectances calculated as the depth mean show reflectances similar to the approximate values of the reflectances presented by Stelling and Ahrens (1981). It is considered that the reflected wave is well reproduced according to the control of the reflected wave at the boundary and the shape and topography of the structure. Compared with previous studies to examine the diffraction of the wave incident from the breakwater opening, the wave incidence angle and the shape of the diffraction wave are very similar to the theoretical values, but both oblique and rectangular incidence In the case where the direction concentration is small, the diffraction degree is underestimated in some sections with the crest ratio of 0.5 to 0.6.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.335-347
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• 2013

In February 2008, high storm waves due to a developed atmospheric low pressure system propagating from the west off Hokkaido, Japan, to the south and southwest throughout the East Sea (ES) caused extensive damages along the central coast of Japan and along the east coast of Korea. This study consists of two parts. In the first part, we estimate extreme storm wave characteristics in the Toyama Bay where heavy coastal damages occurred, using a non-hydrostatic meteorological model and a spectral wave model by considering the extreme conditions for two factors for wind wave growth, such as wind intensity and duration. The estimated extreme significant wave height and corresponding wave period were 6.78 m and 18.28 sec, respectively, at the Fushiki Toyama. In the second part, we perform numerical experiments on wave-structure interaction in the Fushiki Port, Toyama Bay, where the long North-Breakwater was heavily damaged by the storm waves in February 2008. The experiments are conducted using a non-linear shallow-water equation model with adaptive mesh refinement (AMR) and wet-dry scheme. The estimated extreme storm waves of 6.78 m and 18.28 sec are used for incident wave profile. The results show that the Fushiki Port would be overtopped and flooded by extreme storm waves if the North-Breakwater does not function properly after being damaged. Also the storm waves would overtop seawalls and sidewalls of the Manyou Pier behind the North-Breakwater. The results also depict that refined meshes by AMR method with wet-dry scheme applied capture the coastline and coastal structure well while keeping the computational load efficiently.