• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.36 no.3 s.134
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• pp.413-422
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• 2003

Numerical analysis for the Bragg reflection due to sinusoidally varying seabeds tying on a sloping beach was performed by using a couple of ordinary differential equations derived from the Boussinesq equations. Incident waves were wane groups generated by two short waves with slightly different phases. Effects of the slope of a seabed to the reflection were investigated in detail. It is shown that the reflection of long waves enhanced by increasing the slope of a seabed. This phenomenon caused by increase of wave amplitude due to increase of nonlinearity and shoaling.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.1-7
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• 2002

In the past, safety assessment on the site of Ulchin Nuclear Power Plants against tsunamis was carried out with probable maximum earthquake magnitude and related tsunamigenic fault parameters. Recently, however, based on the seismic gap theory, some seismologists warned about earthquakes of larger magnitudes than had been expected. In this study, we revaluated tsunami risk with a finite difference model based on linear and nonlinear shallow water equations. Firstly, we simulated the\`83 tsunami and compared the calculated water surface profile with the observed wave heights. Secondly, we evaluated the rise and drop of sea water level at the site of Ulchin Nuclear Power Plant with fault parameters of the past '83, '93 tsunamis and some dangerous faults. Finally, we showed that the cooling water intake facility of Ulchin Nuclear Power Plants would be safely operated in disastrous tsunamis.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.44-51
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• 2008

The planning and design of coastal structures against wave attack is required to accurately predict wave transformation, wave run-up, and fluid. particlevelocities an a slope. On tire other hand, in tire swash and surf zones of a natural beach, where coastal erosion and accretion occur at tire land-sea boundary, hydrodynamic analysis is essential. In this study, a RBREAK2 numerical model was created based on the nonlinear shallow water equation and laboratory measurements were carried out in terms of tire free surface elevations and velocities for tire cases of regular and irregular waves on 1 : 10 and 1 : 5 impermeable slopes. The data were used to evaluate tire applicability and limitations of tire RBREAK2 numerical model. The numerical mode1 could predict tire cross-shore variation of the wave profile reasonably well, but showed more accurate results for slopes that were steeper than 1 : 10. Except near tire wave crest, tire computed depth averaged velocities could represent tire measured profile below tire trough level fairly well.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.95-106
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• 1999

A numerical model is represented to calculate the wave fields such as the reflected waves, the transmitted waves and the depth-averaged velocities over submerged breakwaters for the normally incident wave trains of nonlinear mono-chromatic wave and solitary wave. The finite amplitude shallow water equations with the effects of bottom friction are solved numerically in time domain using an explicit dissipative Lax-Wendroff finite difference method. The numerical model is verified by comparisons with the other numerical results and the measured data. It is found that the submerged breakwater may be more useful for protecting the energies of monochromatic waves rather than solitary waves. Finally, the armor stability on submerged breakwater is indirectly analyzed using the hydrodynamic characteristics of flow fields.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.369-381
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• 2017

It has been presumed that highly nonlinear skewed waves frequently observed in a surf zone could significantly influence the transmission behaviour via a porous wave breaker due to its larger inertia force than its nonlinear counterparts of zero skewness [Cnoidal waves]. In this study, in order to confirm this perception, a numerical simulation has been implemented for 6 waves the skewness of that range from 1.02 to 1.032. A numerical simulation are based on the Tool Box called as the ihFoam that has its roots on the OpenFoam. Skewed waves are guided by the shoal of 1:30 slope, and the flow in the porous media are analyzed by adding the additional damping term into the RANS (Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes equation). Numerical results show that the highly nonlinear skewed waves are of higher transmitted ratio than its counterparts due to its stronger inertia force. In this study, in order to see whether or not the damping at the porous structure has an effect on the wave celerity, we also derived the dispersive relationships of Nonlinear Shallow Water Eq. [NSW] with damping at the porous structure being accounted. The newly derived dispersive relationships shows that the phase lag between the damping friction and the free surface elevation due to waves significantly influence the wave celerity.

• Journal of the Earthquake Engineering Society of Korea
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.41-55
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• 2003

A dynamically-interfaced multi-grid finite difference model for simulation of tsunamis in the East Sea(Choi et al.) was established and further applied to produce detailed feature of coastal inundations along the whole eastern coast of Korea. The computational domain is composed of several sub-regions with different grid sizes connected in parallel of inclined directions with 16 innermost nested models. The innermost sub-region represents the coastal alignment reasonably well and has a grid size of about 30 meters. Numerical simulations have been performed in the framework of shallow-water equations(linear, as well as nonlinear) over the plane or spherical coordinate system, depending on the dimensions of the sub-region. Results of simulations show the general agreements with the observed data of run-up height for both tsunamis. The evolution of the distribution function of tsunami heights is studied numerically and it is shown that it tends to the log-normal curve for long distance from the source.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.384-395
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• 2020

Breaking waves generated by wave shoaling in coastal areas have a close relationship with various physical phenomena in coastal regions, such as sediment transport, longshore currents, and shock wave pressure. Therefore, it is crucial to accurately predict breaker index such as breaking wave height and breaking depth, when designing coastal structures. Numerous scientific efforts have been made in the past by many researchers to identify and predict the breaking phenomenon. Representative studies on wave breaking provide many empirical formulas for the prediction of breaking index, mainly through hydraulic model experiments. However, the existing empirical formulas for breaking index determine the coefficients of the assumed equation through statistical analysis of data under the assumption of a specific equation. In this paper, we applied a representative linear-based supervised machine learning algorithms that show high predictive performance in various research fields related to regression or classification problems. Based on the used machine learning methods, a model for prediction of the breaking index is developed from previously published experimental data on the breaking wave, and a new linear equation for prediction of breaker index is presented from the trained model. The newly proposed breaker index formula showed similar predictive performance compared to the existing empirical formula, although it was a simple linear equation.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.28 no.3B
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• pp.261-270
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• 2008

Even though there is a great deal of progress in a numerical method of high caliber like SPH, it is very rarely deployed in a water resources community. Despite the great stride in computing environment, depth averaged approach like a nonlinear shallow equation is still efficient tool for flood routing in large watershed, but it can give some misleading information like the inundation height of flood. In this rationale, we numerically simulate the flow into the dry channel, dry channel with an obstacle triggered by the collapse of a two dimensional water column using SPH (Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics) in order to boost the application of numerical method of high caliber like SPH in a water resources community. As a most severe test of the robustness of SPH, we also carry out the simulation of the flow through a clearance into the wet channel driven by the rapid removal of a water gate. As a hydrodynamic model, we used the Navier-Stokes equation, a numerical integration of which was carried out using SPH. To verify the validity of newly proposed numerical model, we compare the numerically simulated flow with the others in the literature mainly from VOF and MAC, and hydraulic experiments by Martin and Moyce (1952), Koshizuka et al. (1995) and Janosi et al. (2004). It was shown that agreements between the numerical results in this study and hydraulic experiments are remarkable.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Hazard Mitigation
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.145-152
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• 2008

The initial wave lengths of tsunamis can be several tens to hundreds kilometers. Thus, the importance of the frequency dispersive effects in proportion to variation of the wave length, and should be properly considered in numerical simulation of tsunami propagation for a better accuracy. Recently, a practical dispersion-correction scheme has been developed by adding dispersion-correction terms(Cho et al., 2007). The new model employing the numerical technique has been verified by comparing numerical results with available analytic solutions, however, the new model has not yet been applied on a real topography. In this study, the new model is applied on a real topography and its applicability is examined. To study the applicability of the new model, two historical tsunami events are simulated for Sokcho, Mukho and Pohang harbors, with the tide gage records. Numerical results, the arrival time and the maximum water level at the tidal stations, are compared with observed data at each harbor.

• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.1-12
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• 1996

Hydrodynamic characteristics of shipping water on deck are investigated by using a simplified two-dimensional model. Formulation of the shipping water on deck leads to a nonlinear hyperbolic system of equations based on the shallow-water wave theory. Time-domain solution of these equations are obtained numerically using a finite difference method which adopts predictor-corrector method for time-marching and 2nd upwind differencing method for convection term calculation. To confirm the validity of the present numerical method, we calculated some shallow-water wave problems accompanying a bore and compared the obtained results with the analytic solutions. We found good agreements between them. Though the calculation results of shipping water on deck, we show that the shipping water flows into the deck as a rarefying wave arid grows into a bore after colliding with a deck structure. Also we examined the effects of acceleration and slope of deck and found that they have significant influences on the flow of shipping water.