• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.902-910
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• 2008

A view of the Orientalism that sees the Orient as the inferior Other, characterized by the heterogenic, eccentric, backward, and passive features, has been internalized in the unconsciousness of Westerners. 'Orientalism' which is the cultural device and the system of discourse to put Asia in the fixed frame of dominance was the West European centered term, designating Southwest Asia including South Europe and North Africa as Orient, and contained the idea that non-Western society could progress only with the acceptance of Western civilization. Accordingly, it is need to use this term deliberately. In addition, even though the Asian Look of the West, borrowing the images and costume styles of Asia has lost the original mentality of Asia, it was not initiated from the perception that sees Asia as the inferior Other. Since the Asian Ethnic Look is the Western costume, borrowing the image of Orient and style by being fascinated by Oriental Aesthetics, the attributes of it are different from those of Orientalism. Therefore, it is not appropriate to designate the Asian Ethnic Look as 'Orientalism Fashion' or 'Oriental Look' except for some eccentric manipulation of Asia costume and image. Instead, it is desirable to exchange the term 'Asian Look', 'Asian Fashion', and 'Asian Ethnic Look' upon occasions or the name of individual nation or region can be referred to as preferred alternatives. Today, Asia including Korea is taking the initiative in the World Fashion as one of central axes of World Fashion Industry, and cannot be interpreted from the perspective of West Centrism. Now, it's time to dissolve the dichotomous prejudice of the West centrism on Asia's own strength.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.799-810
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• 2012

A girdle is a body-shaping article of clothing. The garment pressure of the girdle is considered an indispensable factor. The purpose of this study was to identify changes in body size and distribution of garment pressure after donning the girdle. The changes of body size and garment pressure were analyzed by body types. Korean women (n=19) in their 20s participated in the experiment. Their body types were classified according to four factors: the index value(hip girth-waist girth), and waist, hip, and thigh girths. The garment pressure was measured at 12 points. The results of this study showed that the hip and thigh girths were reduced mostly after donning the girdle. These values were 2.0~2.8cm and 1.7~2.3cm, respectively. The garment pressure was high at the waist band, the hip joint, and the gluteal furrow region at the back. The subjects whose waists, thighs, or hips were well developed showed great garment pressure in the hip area, but their hip girth decreased very little. The subjects with less developed or slim thighs or hips showed a slimming effect, with moderate pressure in the hip and thigh regions. These results show that the hip and thigh can be slimmed with moderate pressure by donning a thigh-length girdle. High garment pressure is not necessary for the girdle's body shaping effect. The hip area is hard to get body slimming effect with high garment pressure. The current girdle sizing system needs to be revised in order to lower garment pressure in the hip region. The researchers suggest using 3cm size intervals rather than 6cm size intervals for hip girth.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.4 s.103
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• pp.15-32
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to research on the actual condition of production and selling in silver apparel market. For the questionnaire, 19 women's wear brands which were in higher ranking of sales in boutiques and madame-zone of department stores were selected. Pattern makers of each brand were questioned about 40 items for this research. The results of the questionnaire were as follows: 1) According to the result of the survey on the made-to-wear production of 19 ready-to-wear manufacturers, there was the gap was in ages between the target and the real consumer. Consumers of these brands were older and aged more broadly than their target ages. 2) Most of the consumers of silver-zone has thick waists, common heights, fat shapes. Custom-made clothes are ordered in many cases because of the big abdomen(50.0%) and H-shape(58.3%) of a somatotype. The body size variation of user population is needed for a good fit. 3) All brands(100%) of this research are using KS standards in the label of clothing, but they don't use these data in their production by reason of unawareness and distrust about these data. These inconsistency between the label and the real size of products may cause a confusion when consumers buy ready-to-wear. 4) Silver apparel manufacturers have need of anthropometry information and dummy(78.6%) suitable for their target consumers to increase their satisfaction about their apparel fit.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2001.04a
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• pp.49-49
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• 2001

SP(sales promotion)전략을 지향하는 백화점은 강 한 개성으로 다양하게 변화해 가는 소비자의 욕구충 족을 위해 대 고객차원의 편의성 및 쾌적한 쇼핑환 경을 마련하며 아이디어는 항상 특별하고 새로워야 한다. SP 전략으로서의 VMD (visual merchandi sing)는 상품의 시각화계획 등 통일된 시각(visual identity) 연 출을 통해 고객의 그룹이나 개인의 취향에 맞는 타켓 마케팅 (target marketing) 으로 백 화점 은 고객 의 중심에서 그들의 삶을 윤태하게 하며 아름답고 즐거 운 소비문화를 주도해갈 수 있는 환경을 제공해야 할 것이다. 1999년 말 IMF 이후 최근 막강한 자금력과 경쟁 력을 가진 대형 외국 할인 업체의 부상과 계속되는 장기적인 경제위축으로 백화점의 마케팅활동은 기존 고객과 관련된 단기적 욕구만을 충족시키는 점에서 벗어날 수 없었다. 이렇게 심각한 경기불안과 유통환 경의 급변으로 인해 소비자의 구매력이 약화되고 매 출이 감소하는 등 백화점의 한계성과 업태간의 경쟁 이 심화되어 갈수록 진정한 서비스개념의 합리적 목 적을 띤 VMD가 SP전략의 실질적인 형태로써 존재 되어야 한다. VMD는 이러한 불경기에 대응하는 백화점의 생존 고용식 전략으로서 좀더 강하고 적극적인 글로벌 마인드 ( (global mind)를 갖고 보다 넓은 시장에 대한 장기적 안목을 필요로 한다. 특히 대 고객 감성의 글로벌화 로 광범위한 상품의 장르와 감각적인 투자로써 신 고객창출을 도모하는 한편 고객에 대한 세심한 배려 와 구체화된 전략을 통해 불황을 극복하는 등 국내 유통문화의 선진화를 가속시켜 나갈 수 있는 것이다. "손쉬운 장사벌이"라는 무책임한 사고를 버리고 철저한 고객친화의 중심에 서서 그들에게 즐거웅을 주고 풍요로운 문화의 장(場)을 마련하는 등 지금의 무한경쟁 시대에 가장 감성적인 경쟁력으로서 고객에게는 쇼핑을 통한 즐거움과 여유로움, 풍성한 정보 와 화제성, 독특한 서비스와 볼거리 등이 지속적으로 제공되어야 하며 상품의 시각화 계획인 VMD는 세 련된 드라마처럼 감동적 연출로 그 이야기가 전개되 어야한다. 고객의 구매행동을 기초로 유통시장의 무한 자유 경쟁이란 현 시점에서 판매촉진의 전략에 대한 체계 적 접근과 합목적성을 가진 VMD의 전개 방향 및 향후 백화점업계의 차별화 방안과 전략은 단순한 행 위의 출발이 아닌 주변환경과의 밀접한 연관 속에서 지극히 창조적인 예술적 자극이 요구되며 그 과정에 따른 결과적인 "반응"을 기대한다.quot;반응"을 기대한다.기대한다.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2003.05a
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• pp.34-34
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• 2003

본 연구는 체형의 특성이 현저히 나타나는 40~50대의 Plus-size 여성을 대상으로 체형의 특징이 고려된 치수체계에 대해 맞음새가 우수한 재킷을 개발하고, 이 원형을 토대로 하여 체형의 단점을 보완할 시각적 효과를 연구하기 위해 Plus-size에 해당하는 여성을 선정하여 수트(suit)를 제작한 후 착의 평가하여 Plus-size에 적합한 수트를 제안하는데 목적을 두고 있다. 결과를 요약하면 다음과 같다. 1. Plus-size 여성의 착용실태를 파악하기 위해 실시한 착용실태 조사는 판매자의 측면의 심층면접과 소비자 측면의 착장조사로 구분하여 조사하고 분석하였다. 착용실태조사 결과, Plus-size 여성은 의복구매시 맞음새와 편안함을 중시하고 상완부와 어깨의 두께, 가슴둘레와 복부의 비만등의 체형단점을 갖게 되므로 판매자측에서는 의복제도 시에 등품, 앞품, 상완부, 복부의 여유분을 고려하고 있었다. 시각적 효과로는 세미피트 스타일의 프린세스 라인과 허리선+20, 30cm의 재킷길이, 그리고 테일러드 칼라, 스테인 칼라, 라운드 네크라인이 판매자과 소비자의 양측면에서 선호되고 있었다. 2. Plus-size 여성의 체형에 맞음새가 우수한 재킷원형을 개발하기 위해 Plus-size 여성복의 재킷 원형 중 4종의 기존원형을 선정하고, 착의 피험자 3인을 대상으로 3차에 걸친 착의실험을 통해 연구 원형을 개발하고 평가단을 구성해 객관적인 평가 33문항에 대한 외관 관능검사를 실시하였다. 1) 가슴둘레 여유분을 8~9cm, 허리둘레 여유분을 6~7cm, 엉덩이둘레 여유분을 6~8cm로 적용하여 맞음새를 향상시켜 날씬해 보이는 효과를 높였다. 2) 진동깊이 계산식은 (B/10+10.5)+2cm 적용하고, 진동두께 계산식은 (B/8-1.5)+2cm를 적용함으로써 진동깊이와 진동두께의 편차가 작아짐으로 인해 소매부위와 진동부위의 맞음새를 향상시켰다. 3) 가슴둘레의 증가에 따라 등길이에 앞길이 치수를 증가시키는 계산식을 설정하여 앞가슴둘레의 맞음새를 향상시켰다. 4) Plus-size여성의 경우 허리부분의 신체적합성을 높이기 위하여 사이드 판넬(side panel)의 재킷원형으로 하였다. 앞 허리와 배 부분의 지방 침착이 크므로 앞 허리둘레 다아트 폭과 앞판 사이드 판넬(side panel) 솔기 다아트 폭을 작게 설정하고, 뒤판 사이드 판넬 솔기 폭을 크게 설정하였다. 5) 어깨끝점 사이길이는 다른 부위의 체지방 침착과 같이 비례적으로 증가하지 않으므로 표준체형에 비해 좁게 설정하였다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.5
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• pp.62-75
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• 2014

The importance of VMD operation strategies in fashion business is growing, and this study analyzed the difference in consumers' VMD cognition of the two VMD operation systems: VMD specialist employment system and VMD outsourcing system. Two SPA brands were selected as the representative cases of the two VMD operation systems. A statistical analysis was performed using data collected from a total of 206 university and graduate students from an experimental study. Paired t-test and independent t-test were used for the analysis. The results are as follow: First, consumers' VMD cognition of the two VMD operating systems were different, and the VMD specialist employment system was valued higher than the VMD outsourcing system in all cognition dimensions. Second, the VMD specialist employment system was valued generally higher than the VMD outsourcing system regardless of gender, clothing involvement, and VMD interest of consumers. Third, the VMD specialist employment system was valued higher than the VMD outsourcing system in the following aesthetic aspects: harmony, attractiveness, and fashionable dimensions by the male, low involvement, and the VMD interested consumers. Fourth, the VMD outsourcing system was valued higher than the VMD specialist employment system in the appropriateness and the functionality dimensions by females and the high-involvement consumers, It also scored higher in the fashionable and attractive dimensions by the VMD interested consumers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.6
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• pp.200-217
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• 2012

The purpose of this research is to examine the specificity of grids to define the characteristics of clothes styles in the Joseon Dynasty period. The significance of examining of the specificity of grids is to find out arbitrary types of the features of grids involved in structuring the Jeogori in the Joseon Dynasty period one by one. The Visual Linguistic Theory was introduced as a methodological tool to exquisitely analyze the characteristics of grids in deep structures of Jeogori in the Joseon Dynasty period. This theory strives to examine sample distribution, the distribution of samples by quality and the distribution of the types of ploidy features. Through the examination, the results are as follows. The grid systems of the Jeogori consisted of diverse proportion systems reaching 86 cases, that is, sequence systems composed of multi-functional, multi-combined bodies. Most ornamental grids had feature angles distributed in a range of $2-20^{\circ}$ that showed a common preference for low sloped diagonal lines or small curvature. Although the preference for certain feature angles were prominent, the feature angles that were used were generally distributed evenly among diverse feature angles to show the characteristics of separation. Therefore, Jeogori makers in the Joseon Dynasty period can be considered as having experimented with many proportion systems to show their aesthetics. In conclusion, based on the results of the examination of feature distributions and related methods to allocate ploidy features, O-type accounted for 66% and thus it was identified that the Jeogori was characterized by O-type. Therefore, it was identified that the characteristic of the Jeogori in the Joseon Dynasty period consisted of O-type fractal structures which are formative structures unique to our nation.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.876-887
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to determine the fundamental foot measurement data that is essential for a shoes size system of women in their 20~30s according to a survey of Korean hand-made shoes companies. This research on the current situation of shoes companies was done by interviewing and surveying employees of these companies. The subjects for this study were 407 women in their 20s~30s who lived in a metropolitan area, and who wanted to enhance their foot health and prevent injury with a proper shoes size system. They were measured with the 3D scan method in use of 6th Size Korea. The result of this study showed that there is considerable dissatisfaction related to women's shoes and the current foot size system using foot length. The Korean hand-made shoes companies assessed here did not use the KS system, but they recognized the necessity of measuring the foot width and circumference, understanding that doing so properly can decrease the return and repair rate. And current target age for shoes bye the hand-made shoes companies was reported to be approximately 5 years. There were significant results according to ANOVA, factor and cluster analyses according to the age range pertaining to the foot length, circumference and height. Each element was significantly correlated with user's satisfaction. There were 5 factors and 3 clusters represented, and foot circumstance and width were as important as foot length with a range of 5 years.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.849-864
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• 2021

This study analyzed product conditions in terms of "size system," "clothing construction depending on fit," "details," "colors," and "prices," with an emphasis on young contemporary brands for spring/summer 2021, in order to provide basic data for the development of small-sized women's jackets. Out of 96 domestic and foreign brands, the study analyzed 254 small-sized jacket products from 23 brands that produce size-XS jackets. First, when examining the sizes for women's jackets, we found that 8 out of the 23 brands offer a size-XXS option. After conducting tree analysis to analyze the factors affecting the production of size-XXS, the study found significant results in the areas of "distinction between domestic and foreign brands" and "product price." Second, after categorizing small-sized women's jackets into 3 categories-fit-slim, basic, and straight-the study analyzed clothing construction elements depending on fit. This seasons mainly feature straight-fit's hip-line length jacket, a 4-panel pattern, and a panel without a waist dart. Third, the study, through the analysis of the colors of small-sized women's jackets, found a higher frequency of colors in the order of black (23.0%), white (13.3%), and beige tones (10.1%), with additional colors such as sky blue, rose pink, and aquamarine in production, which exhibit the senses of the seasons. Price analysis revealed that small-sized jackets constituted a price range at the mid-to-low end, as in ₩50,000-100,000 (30.3%), ₩100,000-150,000 (19.3%), and ₩150,000-200,000 (11.8%).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.2
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• pp.35-49
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• 2014

In cases of fashion businesses operating by consignment, base estimate on quantity of sales is the most essential part of merchandising. This study classified factors influential to sales into factors with systematic influence and factors with unsystematic influence. In order to find out influence of each factor on sales, non-linear regression was used with SPSS package on the basis of actual data on sales for 5 years for sport shoes brand. Major findings of this study are as follows. First, price level had significant negative(-) influence on sales. Second, price expectation effects had significant negative(-) influence on sales. Third, competitor's price effect showed significant negative(-) value. Fourth, day-of-the-week effect showed significant positive(+) effect. The theoretical marketing implications of this study are as follows. First, study on price leads to expansion of the researches from apparels to sport shoes. Field of study on price was enlarged through expansion of variable of study from price level and price expectation effect to promotion, day-of-the-week effect and rainfall effect. Second, quantitative scale of day-of-the-week effect was found and it could be confirmed that there was seasonal differences with day-of-the-week effect. Implications of above findings on marketing managers are as follows. First, it was found that an increase in competitiveness of brand power and a decline in absolute value of competitor's price effect can be realized when new product groups are developed to meet the unsatisfied needs in the market. Second, it was possible to find out the parameters scales of the price response function, making it possible to estimate sales for the next season, and in turn realize increase in rate of sales and profit rate. This research is based on the dynamic price response function, which is rare to find in the apparel business and it academic significance due to its expanding response model which was focused on price in conventional researches to non-systematic variables.