• 제목, 요약, 키워드: 복식조형

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고려불화를 통해 본 현실세계 인물의 복식에 표현된 선의 특성 (The Characteristics of Seon as Expressed in the Costumes of Worldly Figures Illustrated in Koryo Buddhist Paintings)

  • 옥명선;박옥련;이주영
    • 복식
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    • v.58 no.10
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    • pp.52-64
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of Seon that was expressed in the costumes of worldly figures illustrated in Koryo Buddhist paintings. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. Out of the above mentioned costumes, except those for Buddha and Bodhisattava, most were actually worn by people of Koryo. Shown in the paintings, the patterns and decorations of Seon are more brilliant and diverse in part of worldly figures than in that of Buddhist figures. For men, Seon was mainly used to robes for Buddhist priest while, for women, costumes for the queen and noble women. Seon was applied to costumes for both men and women, especially Po for ritual purposes. Besides, it was sometimes used to Buddhist priests' robes and women's Banbi and chima. The patterns of Seon were usually single in composition style and scattering in arrangement style. Whether applied to costumes for men or women, Seon usually had complementary colors that were harmonized.

아시아 전통 복식의 조형적 특성과 미적 가치 비교 연구 - 불교권, 힌두권, 이슬람권 복식을 중심으로 - (A Comparative Study on Characteristics and Aesthetic Value of Asian Traditional Costumes - Emphasis on Buddhist, Hindu and Islamic Costumes -)

  • 서봉하
    • 복식
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    • v.64 no.6
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    • pp.47-64
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    • 2014
  • A variety of traditional costumes have been developed in Asia due to different natural and cultural environments and they are still worn by people in many areas. Traditional costumes in Asia have been formed under the influence of various ideologies, as well as technology and social structure. Three Asian religions(Buddhism, Hinduism and Islam), which have undeniably strong influence on traditional Asian cultures, have great effects on the styles of traditional costume in each region of Asia. The purpose of this study is to compare the characteristics and aesthetic values of traditional Asian costumes. To do this, the author used images of traditional costumes, which were taken in person by the author, in each region of Asia as reference. Unlike the traditional costumes in the West, which expose the body shape, traditional Asian costumes have nonstructural features in construction, form and wearing rules. They are also decorated with religious symbols and other ornaments, which is different from functional and non-decorative modern clothes. Each traditional Asian costume has unique characteristics. The costume under the influence of Buddhism shows the beauty of concealment that features trans-spatiality and abundant silhouette. On the other hand, the Hindu costume shows the beauty of symbolization represented by very colorful and complex ornaments, while costume in the Islam regions shows the beauty of restraint with clothes that wrap up the body in accordance with its strict religious discipline. Asian religions also represent philosophy, culture as well as an ethnic group. They have influenced entire Asian cultures including the arts, aesthetics and social structure and decided the style of costumes.

앙드레 꾸레쥬의 패션 디자인에 나타난 건축양식 특성연구 (A Study of the Architectural Characteristics Depicted on Andre Courrs Fashion Design)

  • Kyoung-Hee Cho
    • 복식
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    • v.23
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    • pp.25-43
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    • 1994
  • 앙드레 꾸레쥬는 자신의 디자인에 건축적 조형미를 표현한 대표적인 디자이너이다. 그의 디자인들은 라인 뿐 아니라 색채, 소재, 액세서리에 이르기까지 건물을 짓듯이 설계, 구성되어 있다. 최근 복식미의 건축적 조형성이 강조되고 있는 것을 감안할 때, 60년대 이미 선구자적인 역할을 하면서 자신의 건축가적인 기호를 유감없이 발휘해온 꾸레쥬를 연구한다는 것은 21세기를 향한 패션의 발전 측면에서 조금이라도 의미가 있지 않을까 생각한다. 본 연구에서는 앙드레 꾸fp쥬가 가장 활발히 활동했던 1974년에서 1970년까지 그의 디자인들을 집중 연구하였는데, 그의 패션디자인에 건축양식의 특징들이 어떻게 나타났는지에 연구의 초점을 맞추었다. 본 연구의 대상으로 사용된 실제의 옷 샘플들은 뉴욕 메트로폴리탄 예술박물관내의 Costume Institute Storage 에 있는 의복과 액세서리들을 직접, 관찰 , 분석한것이고 그 박의 사진들은 패션과 건축에 관한 서적과 잡지, 박물관내의 Slide Library , 그리고 Costume Institute Library Collection에서 발췌 , 비교 연구한 것이다. 일찍이 엔지니어링과 건축을 공부했던 앙드레 꾸레쥬는 50년대의 패션 디자이너의 거장 발렌시아가 밑에서 10년 넘게 일하다가 독립하였는데 그의 디자인 세계는 줄곧 여성들이 입고 편히 활동 할 수 있는 기능성을 강조하면서 단순하고 편안한 의복 구성에 중점을 두었다. 그리고 그는 이러한 자신의 패션 철학과 의복제작 과정들은 현대건물이 갖는 단순성, 기능성의 특징과 일치한다고 믿었다. A. 라인(Line) 앙드레 꾸레쥬는 패션 디자인에서의 비레는 건축에서구조를 쌓아가는 것과 같은 것이라고 생각하고 옷에서의 기본 구성을 기하학적인 라인에 두었다. 그래서 그의 옷들은 A-라인, 사각형, 사다리꼴,,, 등의 분명한 실루엣을 이루고 있는데 이러한 기본라인을 뒷받침이라도 하듯 소매가 아주 짧거나 없는 것이 특징이다. 황금분할이 아닌 1 : 1 구성은 그가 독특하게 사용한 비례방법의 하나인데 그것은 자켓과 스커트의 길이비례, 요크와 몸판간의 면적비례 등에서 잘 나타나고 있다. 그리고 그는 , 의복구성의 비례를 강조하기 위해 사용한 강한 색상의 대비를 현대건물의 인테리어에 빛을 사용하는 것과 같은 이치라고 설명한다. B.색상(Color) 흰색은 그러한 그의 비례강조 의복에 가장 적절한 색으로 사용되었다. 그는 빨강, 오렌지, 녹색, 분홍등 강렬한 원색을 사용하였는데도 불구하고 흰색은 그의 건축양식 발상의 Ideo를 완성시키는 완전한 색이었다. 뜨거운 날씨에 흰색이 가장 기능적인 색인 것처럼 강한 원색 대비를 통해 비례강조를 하면서 동시에 그것을 뒷받침하는 가장 합리적이고 기능적인 색은 흰색이라고 믿었다. C. 소재 (Material) 앙드레 꾸레쥬는 건물을 짓듯이 사람위에 옷을 건축한다고 믿었기 때문에 자연히 둔탁하고 딱딱한 소재가 많이 사용되었다. 비닐, 금속류, 시퀸스처럼 광택나고 투명한 재료 선호는 그 당시 현대 건축에서 선풍적으로 많이 사용되었던 유리, 금속류, 크리스탈 등 비치고 광택나는 건축재료와 일맥상통하는 것이다. 그러한 선국적인 내료 사용결과로 보여진 괴상하고 선정적인 그러면서도 아주 단순한 패션은 미래 지향적인 건축양식 구조의 " Simple", "Plain" 느낌과 정확하게 같은 것이다. 이상과 같이 앙드레 꾸레쥬는 옷을 디자인 했다기 보다는 건축했다. 주목할만한 점은 60년대 말 당시 발표되었던 그의 건축 구조적인 디자인의 특징들이 21세기를 앞둔 90년대에 다시 크게 유행하고있다는 점이다. 꾸레쥬 역시, 최근 자신의 디자인을 통해 건축적 조형미와 미래지향적 이미지를 더욱 강조하고 있는 것을 볼 수있다. 단순하면서 우주공간을 선회하는 듯한 입체적인 라인, 흰색을 비롯한 자연에 가까운 색을 중심으로 하되, 밝은 색조의 하이라이트, 플라스틱, 금속류와 같이 딱딱하고 광택나며 비치는 재료 사용,, 등등이 바로 그것이다. 그리고 이러한 그에 미래 지향적이고 조형적인 디자인들은 앞으로 어떻게 더 모험적인 모습으로 선보일지 우리 모두가 주목할만한 일인 것이다.

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한국경찰모자의 형태개발에 관한연구 (A STUDY ON THE FORMAL DEVELOPMENT OF KOREAN POLICEMAN'S HEADGEAR)

  • 강병석
    • 복식
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    • v.27
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    • pp.173-188
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    • 1996
  • The purpose of this study is to present the form of Korean policeman's headgear which is endowed with traditional Korean characters and a creative property that has distinctive from other headgears. The investigation was carried out through the researh of policeman's headgears in foreign countries such as United Kingdom France Belgium Italy germany and Japan. The dom-estic investigation was carried out through the Focused Group Interview and analysis on the domestic policeman's service and headgear. Lastly the research into the characteristic of Korean traditional headgear's from was carried out. Consequently two types of policeman's head-gear hat and cap were newly developed and the system of practical use was suggested. The results of this study were as follows: 1. Through the use of traditional and formal elements of Korean ancient headgears korean policeman's headgears were improved in distinc-tion and dignity. 2. Through the use of unisexual form police-man's headgears were improved in uniformity. 3. Through the use of transformal accessories policeman's headgear were improved in simplified system. 4. Through the use of newly formed and lighten weighted materials policeman's head-gears were improved in functionability.

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한국 경찰제복의 개선방향에 관한 연구 (A Study on the Improvement of Korean Policeman's Uniform)

  • 강병석
    • 복식
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    • v.25
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    • pp.85-104
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    • 1995
  • The purpose of this study is to suggest the way of reformation of the korean policeman's uniform through the precise investigation and analysis both at home and abroad. The domestic investigation was carried out through the research into the concerned documents on how to emprove the policeman's uniform, the investigation into the focused group interview not only for the policeman but also for policeman's uniform, the analysis on the domestic policeman's service in general and the similar uniforms inside the country. The overseas-research was accomplished by visiting six different countries such as United Kingom, France, Belgium, Italy, Germany and Japan while interviewing and analyzing on their own uniforms respectively. The result of thes survey indicates that Korean Policeman's Uniform is comparatively lacking in dignity, functionability, uniformity and symbolic representation of Korea. In conclusion, this study suggests the way how to improve Korean Policeman's Uniform as follows : 1. To pursue the simplification and the uniformity 2. To give the functionability and flexibility by seasons and functions. 3. To inspire the symbolic character and the dignity of policeman's own.

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Elsa Schiaparelli의 작품세계에 관한 연구(II) (A Study on Elsa Schiaparelli's Work(II))

  • 김일
    • 복식
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    • v.20
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    • pp.179-190
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    • 1993
  • In the history of fashion, few designers have interpreted the background of the time more accurately and energetically than did Elsa Schiaparelli. She understood the new role of women and believed clothes should suit one's life style. Schiaparelli begun with sportswear, later included suits and dresses. She produced them of great elegance and extreme chic. Simplicity of line was the key to her distinctive and elegant silhouette. Even her simplest designs had elegance. Her concept of clothes was architectual : the more the plane of the body were respected, the more the garment acquired vitality. Schiaparelli combined her knowledge, timing, and sense of daring in the presentation of her designs, colors, fabrics, and embroideries. For V, the garment was not only the medium for the couturier's craft but also the place for artistic expression. Her self-conscious equation of designer's objectives with that of artist is at the heart of her work. Schiaparelli's work is an expression of desire, not merely of design.

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천연염색을 이용한 제품디자인 개발 (Design development through natural dyeing)

  • 박영선
    • 복식문화연구
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    • v.21 no.3
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    • pp.394-400
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    • 2013
  • At a time when the demand for environmentally friendly products is soaring, the fashion industry is following suit. The industry is showing particular interest in natural-dyed products. Against this backdrop, this study conducted a literature review on the history of natural dyeing for textiles and on the types of natural dyes. In addition, this study identified recent trends in the fashion industry and applied the findings from the literature review to those trends. Through this process, possibilities for new designs were suggested. This study proposed designs for various items-t shirts, one-piece dresses, blouses, skirts, and knitwear-by using threads and textiles dyed from mugwort, Polygonum indigo, safflowers, Lithospermum erythrorhizon, and Sophora japonica flowers. This study is also meaningful in that it broadens the boundaries of design for natural-dyed fashion products. To that end, various designs were attempted by combining natural-dyed textiles or knits with leather, denim, and fur.

영화의상 "매트릭스 2 - 리로디드"에 나타난 포스트모던 패션 이미지 연구 (A Study on Post-modern Fashion Image Expressed in the "Matrix2-Reloaded" Costume)

  • 김현숙
    • 복식
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    • v.53 no.7
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    • pp.125-137
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    • 2003
  • This study is to explore the Post-modern fashion image appeared in the costumes of the movie $\ulcorner$Matrix2-Reloaded$\lrcorner$, which is believed to adapt successfully the Postmodernism ideas on screen. From this study, we can find that the movie costumes express certain formative characteristics considerably affected by the contemporary fashion trends such as Minimalism, Formalism, Futurism, Ethno-eclecticism, Asexualism. These are mostly common tendencies aroused in the complex and pluralistic circumstances of Postmodernism where many diverse values are equally regarded. Finally, the 5 trends lead to represent the following symbolic meanings with entanglement in multiplex ways, that is Virtual Reality, Mechanic Artificiality, Human Dignity, Mysticism, Multi-Culturism, and Nonsexuality to create a strong unified imagery and style in that Post-modern movie.

현대패션에 나타난 타이포그래피에 관한 연구 (The Study of Typography Expressed in Modern Fashion)

  • 서현수
    • 복식
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    • v.54 no.2
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    • pp.135-148
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    • 2004
  • The purpose of this thesis is to examine how typography, which has become apparent in many areas of modern society, is expressed, portrayed and how its value, function and significance in fashion can be understood. In order to undertake this study, the concept of typography was examined in detail, the verbal and formative function of typography carefully considered, and the different types of typography were analyzed and categorized in to the below areas : - Typography for the increasing of brand logo recognition - Typography as a social slogan - Typography for the increasing of collective belongingness - Typography as an image - Typography as a symbol. As a result, the typography plays an important role of a verbal tool in modern fashion design. Through typography, fashion was able to explain in much detail the overstatement of society criticizing character and functionality of information conveyance. However, the role of typography will continue to change and evolve according to the constant changes of fashion

시대정신과 복식조형성과의 상관성(제1보) -르네상스와 포스틈던시대의 유사성을 중심으로- (Correlation between the Spirit of Times and Characteristics of Clothing -Similarity between Renaissance and Post-modern Period-)

  • 박숙현
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • v.25 no.4
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    • pp.673-684
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    • 2001
  • The purpose of this study was to find out the correlation between the \"spirit of the times\" and the characteristics of each eras clothing in Renaissance and Post-modern Period. Theoretical studies about the \"spirit of times\" and the characteristics of clothing about each time were preceded. The results were as follows: Similarities of \"Spirit of times\" were 1) emphasis on humanity 2) anti-centralization 3) destruction of social status 4) deconstruction of christianity in Renaissance and modernism in Post-modern Period. Similarities of \"characteristics of clothing\" were 1) emphasis on erotic aspects of female body 2) emphasis of erotic aspects on clothing 3) tendency to revert to the old fashion 4) popularization of certain social groups fashion 5) tendency of deconstructionism in fashion 6) tendency of \"No match mix\" 7) androgynous style.f \"No match mix\" 7) androgynous style.ous style.

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