• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.1-18
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• 1995

We had tested the effect of amino propane sulfonic acid(APSA) on the human skin with non-invasive technique. It was tested with four parameters that were hydration, elasticity, color and skin wrinkles. In vitro culture systems, APSA stimulated the proliferation of fibroblasts bolt it didn't stimulate that of keratinocyte. Also we obtained the similar effects in the raft culture method. So we concluded that APSA affected the dermal region than the epidermal region. In clinical tests, APSA changed the skin color, pbiomechanical properties(especially elasticity) and reduced skin wrinkles of the volunteers. And we could get the better results of skin wrinkle improvement by use of Skin Visiometer than Silflo Image analysis systems.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.33 no.7
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• pp.555-564
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• 2023

In this study, the anti-oxidant activity, elastase inhibitory activity, and skin moisturizing effect of mixed extracts of Acanthopanax senticosus and Citrus unshiu fermented with Bovista plumbea (B-MEAC) were evaluated to verify the availability as a material for inner beauty. The DPPH radical scavenging activity of B-MEAC was showed in a dose-dependent manner (SC₅₀=156.1±0.82 ㎍/ml). Also, B-MEAC inhibited the elastase activity in a concentration-dependent manner (p<0.001). To study the effect of B-MEAC on mouse skin hydration, skin moisture content and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measured. As a result, skin moisture content increased (p<0.001) and TEWL decreased (p<0.01) compared to the dry-induced control group. The effect on the change of collagen fibers in the dry-induced mouse skin was examined through Masson's trichrome staining. In the group administered with B-MEAC, the amount of collagen relatively increased compared to the control group, and the intensity of blue color increased. The effect on the moisturizing function of the dry-induced mouse skin was examined by Western blot method. In the group administered with B-MEAC, the expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) protein decreased compared to the control group. In addition, the expression level of collagen1A1 (COL1A1), hyaluronan synthase-2 (HAS2), filaggrin, and aquaporin-3 (AQP3) recovered (p<0.001). Therefore, these results suggest the potential of B-MEAC as a skin hydration agent for inner beauty.

• Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
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• v.40 no.3
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• pp.237-242
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• 2012

In this study, the skin moisturing effect and stability of cream containing L. cuneata G. Don extract (ethyl acetate fraction) were evaluated. The skin hydrating effect of the cream containing extract was 1020% higher than the placebo cream, and the TWEL of the cream containing extracts was decreased to $7.7g/m^2h$ compared to the control ($10.2g/m^2$) and placebo cream ($8.9g/m^2$). The pH, viscosity, and absorbance were measured under the 4, 25, 37, $45^{\circ}C$ and the sun light during the 12 weeks. The pH change between cream containing extract and placebo cream did not show the significant difference under the 4, 25, 37, $45^{\circ}C$ except for the sun light. Both creams showed high decrease (about 59%) of viscosity at $45^{\circ}C$. However, there was no significant change under other conditions. The absorbance of the cream containing the extract and the placebo cream was decreased similarly at all conditions. This decrease in absorbance was relatively small compared to the decrease of absorbance of the extract in ethanol solution under the sun light (Fig. 7). In addition, any change in color or smell of the cream was not observed during the 12 weeks. Also physical changes as creaming and cohesion were not shown. These results indicate that the cream containing L. cuneata extract has the skin moisturizing effect and is relatively stable. Therefore, it is suggested that the ethyl acetate fraction of L. cuneata extract could be applicable to cosmetics as a new cosmetic material with its antioxidative and antibacterial activities reported previously.

• Journal of Food Hygiene and Safety
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• v.36 no.1
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• pp.77-85
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• 2021

Glucosylceramides (GluCer) are known to play an important role in both water retention and epidermal permeability barrier function in the mammalian stratum corneum. In this study, we investigated the effects of pineapple fruit extract containing glucosylceramides (PFEG) on the maintenance and recovery of skin barrier function using atopic dermatitis-induced animal models. Five-week-old male Hos:HR-1 mice were divided into four groups fed on standard diet, unsaturated fatty acids-deficient (HR-AD) diet, and HR-AD diet supplemented with 0.01% or 0.1% pineapple-GluCer. Skin barrier function was evaluated by transepidermal water loss (TEWL), dermal moisture content, moisture content of the stratum corneum and wrinkle formation. The control group (HR-AD administration group) showed increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL), while the epidermal moisture content and the moisture content of the stratum corneum slowly decreased. However, in the PFEG groups (with 0.1% or 0.01% glucosylceramide), the TEWL levels were significantly reduced at 2 weeks. The PFEG also helped maintain skin moisturizing function by significantly suppressing the decrease of the epidermal moisture content and the moisture content of the stratum corneum. These results show that the PFEG is effective for maintaining and improving the function of the skin barrier. Therefore, this study suggests that PFEG is a potential candidate material for skin functional foods.

• Korean Journal of Food Science and Technology
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.399-407
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• 2021

Wrinkle formation and dryness are the most well-known symptoms of skin aging. This study investigated skin anti-aging and moisturizing effects of Mugunghwa (Hibiscus syriacus L.), the national flower of Korea. The effect of H. syriacus L. flower extract was examined in skin cells originating from humans in vitro and in hairless mice exposed to UVB in vivo. The in vivo study results showed that skin hydration-related factors such as involucrin, filaggrin, HAS1, HYAL1, and matrix metalloproteinase-I (a primary skin photoaging factor) were regulated by H. syriacus L. Additionally, epidermal thickness and collagen disruption, which resulted in wrinkle formation and skin dryness, were ameliorated by oral administration of H. syriacus L. These results indicate that H. syriacus L. flowers can play important roles in preventing aging and promoting skin moisturizing.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.6-22
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• 1999

Chitosan oligosaccharide having physiological activity, such as cell proliferation and wound healing, was prepared by NaNO$_2$ oxidation-NaBH$_4$ reduction from natural chitosan. After deamination by NaNO$_2$ oxidation, the reducing-end residue from NaBH$_4$ was converted to alditol unit, and the reduction was checked by MBTH reagent. The resulting chitosan oligosaccharide had a degree of polymeration of 2-6 from HPLC analysis. From moisture absorption test at relative humidity of 43% and 81%, the moisture absorption ability was 63% and 57%. Moisture retention ability at relative humidity of 43%, silica gel emvironment, was 98% and 97% respectively. Cell proliferation was showed In the range of 0.000032~0.01%, wound healing effect was also appeared in the concentration of 2% and 20%. Antioxidative effect ($SC_{50}$/) was 3213 ppm. Chitosan oligosaccharide was compatible with most of ingredients used in cosmetic products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.4
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• pp.331-339
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• 2023

In this study, in vitro and clinical studies were conducted to assess the anti-inflammatory effects and skin improvement effects, including moisturizing, sebum secretion-regulating, skin barrier function enhancing, and soothing of Helianthus annuus (Sunflower) seed oil. In in vitro study using cultured human epidermal keratinocytes induced with inflammation by lipopolysaccharide, significant decreases in inflammatory cytokines interleukin-6, interleukin-8, and tumor necrosis factor alpha was revealed, indicating the anti-inflammatory effects of H. annuus (Sunflower) seed oil. Additionally, the results of clinical study on subjects with sensitive skin demonstrated improved skin hydration, regulation of sebum secretion, enhanced skin barrier function, as well as amelioration of skin redness and acne, indicating positive effects on overall skin conditions after application of H. annuus (Sunflower) seed oil containing test product for 4 weeks. Results of this study demonstrated the potential of H. annuus (Sunflower) seed oil as an ingredient for cosmetic, targeting consumers with sensitive skin.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.1
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• pp.43-50
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• 2008

Ceramides, a constituent of stratum corneum lipids, play a crucial role in the formation and maintenance of the epidermal permeability barrier. As in many other skin disorders, atopic dermatitis and psoriasis show decrease and transformation of the ceramides. The application of ceramide has been demonstrated to be efficient in the repair of these skin disorders. Nevertheless, natural ceramides are still too expensive and small in quantity to be used as a cosmetic ingredient. Although a lot of pseudo-ceramides have been developed and on the market until now, those pseudo-ceramides did not fully meet the consumer's needs, therefore, there is still a demand for a novel pseudo-ceramides. We synthesized a novel pseudo-ceramide BPC-16 from 2-(2-amino-ethylamino)-ethanol(AEEA), which was characterized by structures having both amide bonds and hydroxyl groups as hydrophilic units, as well as two long alkyl chains. We formulated emulsion with BPC-16, cholesterol, stearic acid, and other components to make an emulsion. These emulsion showed a typical optical anisotropy on cross-polarized microscopy. This 'Maltese cross' appearance is a characteristic figure observed in concentric lamellar emulsion under cross-polarized microscopy. In cytotoxicity assay using MTT in monolayer and three dimension(3D) cell culture, a BPC-16 showed only negligible cytotoxicity up to the effective concentration for barrier repair and moisturization(less than 10 mM). In the measurement of TEWL, this BPC-16 showed significant recovery of water-retaining properties when it was topically applied to either SDS-induced dry skin or normal skin compared to that of base cream. This novel pseudo-ceramide BPC-16 showed as effective in skin barrier repair and moisturization as natural ceramides.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.3
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• pp.219-226
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• 2021

Gastrodia elata has a very low pollination rate in natural state, and even in artificial cultivation, there are very few individuals that bloom due to the degeneration, so little studies have been conducted. This study confirmed that the potential as a cosmetic ingredient by evaluating the antioxidant activity through the evaluation of DPPH radical scavenging activity, anti-inflammatory activity through the inhibitory effect on nitric oxide production, and the moisturizing activity through the effect on promoting hyaluronic acid production by artificially flowering G. elata flower. It was also confirmed that the appearance rate and flowering rate of G. elata harvested in spring were high, and the content of gastrodin was 0.36%. The IC50 value of G. elata flower extract was 0.045% and it was confirmed that G. elata flower extract had higher radical scavenging activity than G. elata root extract. The NO production inhibitory activity against the flower extract showed a significant inhibitory effect from 1% to 83.2%. Hyaluronic acid production promotion efficacy was not confirmed in the G. elata root extract, but the production rate increased with concentration dependence in the flower extract, and it was the highest at 46.9% when 0.02% treatment was performed. Based on the above research results, it is judged that G. elata flower extract has high potential for use as an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin moisturizing cosmetic ingredient.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.60-69
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• 1996

3-APPA는 생체내 물질 Υ-amino butyric acid와 유사한 구조를 갖는 물질로서 human fibroblasts 3-dimensional culture system 등의 in vitro 시험에서 collagen 합성촉진 효과, 세포증식 효과를 나타내며, hairless mouse를 이용한 동물시험에서도 collagen 합성이 증가되는 것으로 보고된 바 있다. 또한 피부 안정성에서도 우수한 결과를 보여줌으로서 화장품 분야에서 새로운 노화억제 물질로서 주목을 받게 되었다. 본 시험에서는 180명의 피검자를 대상으로 3개월간의 임상시험을 통하여 새로운 노화억제 물질인 3-APPA의 효능을 기존의 GABA 유사물질, aminopropane sulfonic acid와 비교하였다. 본 시험은 double-blind, randomized, vehicle-controlled clinical study로서 180명의 피검자를 APSA군, 3-APPA군, vehicle군으로 분류한 후 3개월간 매일 저녁 취침 전, 안면에 시험제품을 사용하도록 하였으며, 사용 전, 사용 1주후, 2주후, 6주후, 12주후 5회 설문지를 통하여 피부상태를 조사하였다. 각 설문내용은 피부 건조도, 피부 탄력도, 피부 주름량, 피부 윤기도, 피부 거칠기 정도에 대한 5개 질문으로 구성된 효능에 관한 질문과 흡수정도, 끈적임, 매끄러움, 보습력, 보습지속성, 전체적인 사용감에 대한 6개 질문으로 구성된 사용성에 관한 것이었다. 각 질문에 대하여는 매우 좋음 1점, 좋은 2점, 보통임 3점, 나쁨 4점, 매우 나쁨 5점 사이에서 답할 수 있도록 하였다. 시험 결과 APSA군은 6주와 12주후 피부 건조도, 피부 거칠기 항목에서 사용전에 비하여 유의한 차이를 나타내었다. 3-APPA군은 6주후 피부 건조도, 피부 거칠기, 피부 탄력도 항목에서 시료사용전에 비해 유의한 차이를 나타내었으며 12주후에는 피부 건조도, 피부 탄력도, 피부 윤기도, 피부 거칠기 항목에서 유의한 차이를 나타내었다. 12주후 APSA군은 피부 주름, 피부 탄력도 항목에서 vehicle 사용 피검자군에 비하여 유의적인 차이를 나타내었으나 3-APPA군은 피부 탄력도, 피부 주름량, 피부 윤기 항목에서 vehicle군에 비하여 유의적인 차이를 나타내었다. 결론적으로 3-APPA와 APSA 사이에 유의적인 차이가 있지는 않았으나 3-APPA군은 APSA군에 비하여 6주, 12주에서 사용전과 유의한 차이를 나타내는 항목이 많았으며 12주에서 vehicle과 유의적인 차이를 나타내는 항목도 많으므로 3-APPA가 APSA 보다 광범위한 피부노화 억제 효과를 갖는 물질이라고 할 수 있다.