• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.38 no.6
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• pp.1383-1392
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• 2021

It has been reported that emodin, a major pharmacologically active ingredient of herbal medicines such as Polygonum cuspidatum, Polygonum multiflorum, Rheum palmatum, and Aloe vera, is effective in antioxidant, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, anticancer, and liver protection. In this study, to investigate the potential of emodin to be used as a skin disease and functional material, the activity related to the improvement of inflammation and skin barrier function was confirmed. To observe the anti-inflammatory effect on HaCaT cells, which are human keratinocytes, cytokine inhibition was confirmed by ELISA kit and protein expression by western blot. In HaCaT cells activated with TNF-α (10 ng/mL)/IFN-γ (10 ng/mL), emodin was treated with each concentration (5, 10, 20, 40) µM. As a result, It was confirmed that the production amount of TNF-α, IL-1β and IL-6 decreased as the concentration of emodin increased. In the experimental results on the expression levels of inflammation-related proteins iNOS and COX-2, it was confirmed that 48% of iNOS and 29% of COX-2 were inhibited compared to control at a concentration of 20 µM of emodin. As an indicator of skin barrier function improvement, the mRNA expression level of filaggrin, involucrin, and loricirn and the production amount of filaggrin, involucrin, and loricirn were confirmed. and excellent results were obtained with an emodin concentration-dependent increase. In particular, filaggrin, which was produced twice as much as the control at a concentration of 20 µM, is a protein involved in the formation of NMF, a natural moisturizing factor, and is known to play an important role in moisturizing the stratum corneum. In conclusion, it was confirmed that emodin can be used as a material for improving inflammation and improving skin barrier function, which is part of the potential for use as a skin disease and functional material. It is believed that if additional research is performed in the future, the scope of its application can be further expanded.

• Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.183-189
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• 2013

This study was performed to investigate the whitening effects of Lactobacillus rhamnosus in addition to its antioxidative activities. The cytotoxicity of the Lactobacillus rhamnosus was 7.6% at 10.0% (v/v) concentration. Its cytotoxicity was lower than 3.2% of Lactobacillus casei when adding the same concentration. Lactobacillus rhamnosus exhibited high antioxidative activities at 14.9% of DPPH radical scavenging activity, and a lower reducing power was measured. Lactobacillus casei exhibited relatively lower antioxidative activities at 13.4%. The tyrosinase inhibition activity of Lactobacillus rhamnosus was observed at 31.3% when adding 10.0% (v/v), as compared to 17.7% for Lactobacillus casei. Lactobacillus rhamnosus demonstrated strong inhibition activity for melanin synthesis at 58.6% when adding 10.0% (v/v), while Lactobacillus casei increased to 80.6%. It was also observed that the high antioxidative activities of Lactobacillus rhamnosus were strongly correlated to whitening activities, due to the inhibition of both tyrosinase and melanin synthesis. These results support the expanded use of lactic acid bacteria as a functional bioresources in the cosmetics industry.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.46 no.3
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• pp.231-241
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• 2020

In this study in order to develop new approaches we investigated using high voltage pulsed electric fields (PEF) technology to reduce the risks, protect the phyto-constituents and improve skin biological activities. After preparing a Chaga mushroom (Inonotus obliquus) extracts pretreated with PEF, components measurement and skin efficacy evaluation were performed. As a result of the content measurement, the content of polysaccharide and polyphenol were higher in the order of extracts treated with 50 Hz and 25 Hz at 0.5 kV/cm, and the content of protein was the highest in extracts treated with 25 Hz at 0.5k V/cm. Similar to the results of the polyphenol measurements, extracts treated with 25 Hz and 50 Hz at 0.5 kV/cm showed leading DPPH scavenging ability. The cell protection effect against sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) and UVB was finest in extracts treated with 25 Hz at 0.5 kV/cm, which had the highest protein content. And the hyaluronic acid synthesis was leading in extracts treated with 50 Hz and 100 Hz at 0.5 kV/cm. Therefore, the active ingredient of the high-voltage PEF pre-treatment Chaga mushroom extract can be developed as a functional material with cell protection and moisturizing effect, and such green technology is expected to be used in various fields of cosmetics and material development.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.43 no.2
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• pp.137-147
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• 2017

The human skin is an ecosystem that provides habitat to various microorganisms. These comprise the skin microbiome and provide numerous benefits in addition to maintaining a symbiotic relation with the host. Various metabolites generated by the skin microbiome exert beneficial effects such as strengthening the skin barrier, and anti-aging and anti-inflammatory functions. In this study, we isolated a novel bacterium, designated Sporichthyacae strain K-07, from the human skin. Analysis of 16S rRNA gene sequences showed that the newly found bacterium shares 93.4% homology with the genus Sporichthya, thus corroborating the discovery of a novel genus. We further analyzed the effect of the novel strain in vitro, by treating HaCaT cells with bacterial metabolite products. Treatment resulted in changes in the mRNA expression levels of filaggrin, claudin1, claudin4, SMase, CERS3, HAS3, aquaporin3, IL-6, TNF-${\alpha}$, TSLP, and TARC. Specifically, the levels of filaggrin, claudin1, claudin4, SMase, CERS3, HAS3, and aquaporin3 were higher in strain K-07 metabolite product-treated cells than in control cells. These results showed that metabolite products of the novel strain K-07 enhanced the skin barrier and exert anti-inflammatory effects. Therefore, these metabolite products could be potentially used for treatment of skin conditions.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.993-1000
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• 2023

Recently, enviromentally friendly natural substances derived from plants have been attracting attention as cosmetic materials, and research on various physiological activities of natural substances is being actively conducted. This study investigated the antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, and antibacterial effects of three types of extracts of mixtures containing different mixing ratios, Polygala tenuifolia, Angelica dahurica, and Elsholtzia splendens, known to have various physiological activities. The mixing ratio is 7 conditions (M1, 1:1:1; M2, 0.5:1.5:1; M3, 1.5:0.5:1; M4, 0.1:0.95:0.95; M5, 0.5:0.5:2; M6, 0.95 :1.95:0.1; M7, 1.45:0.1:1.45), and the optimal mixing ratio was confirmed for use as a cosmetic material. DPPH and ABTS radical scavenging activities showed scavenging abilities of 75.37% and 99.19%, respectively, at 1,000 ㎍/mL of M6. At a concentration of 200 ㎍/mL of M6, it showed 50% of nitric oxide production inhibition compared to the lipopolysaccharide-treated that induced an inflammatory response. It was confirmed that M3 and M6 produced hyaluronic acid 1.47 and 1.49 times higher than the control at a concentration of 50 ㎍/mL, respectively. Through the disc diffiusion test, the clear zone was 9.75 mm at 8 ㎍/mL of M6, confirming the inhibition of growth of staplylococcus aureus strain. Based on the above results, it is believed that the mixed extract of Polygala tenuifolia, Angelica dahurica, and Elsholtzia splendens can be used as a functional natural material for cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.15-31
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• 2012

In our previous studies, the antioxidant, anti-aging, and antibacterial activities of Persicaria hydropipier L. extract, and the moisturizing effect of cream containing P. hydropipier extract were investigated. In this study, the cellular protective effects of P. hydropipier extract and isoquercitrin, main component from P. hydropipier in $^1O_2$-induced photohemolysis of human erythrocytes and ultraviolet B (UVB)-exposed HaCaT cells were investigated. Liposomes such as ethosome and elastic liposome for enhanced transdermal delivery were prepared. Size, loading efficiency, stability, and cumulative permeated amounts of ethosomes and elastic liposomes were evaluated. P. hydropipier extract and isoquercitrin showed more prominent cellular protective effect than (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol, known as lipid antioxidant at $5{\mu}g/mL$. P. hydropipier extract didn't show any characteristics of cytotoxicity at $50{\mu}g/mL$. When HaCaT cells were exposed to a single large dose ($400mJ/cm^2$) of UVB, the extract protected the cells against UVB radiation in a concentration dependent manner ($12.5{\sim}50{\mu}g/mL$). Cell viability of HaCaT cells exposed to UVB $400mJ/cm^2$ was increased by treatment with P. hydropipier extract or isoquercitrin from 36 % (cell viability of positve control groups) to 90 % (cell viability of P. hydropipier extract or isoquercitrin- treated groups). The size of 0.04 % P. hydropiper extract loaded ethosomes was 173.0 nm and the loading efficiency was 55.58 %. 0.04 % P. hydropiper extract loaded ethosomes were stable with as monodisperse particles for 1 week. The ethosome exhibited more skin permeability than general liposome and ethanol solution. The optimal ratio of lipid to surfactant ($Tego^{(R)}$ care 450) of 0.1 % P. hydropiper extract loaded elastic liposomes was observed to be 95 : 5. Vesicle size of 0.1 % P. hydropiper extract loaded elastic liposome was 176.5 nm. The deformability index of the elastic liposome was 16.4. The loading efficiency was 68.8 %. The elastic liposome containing P. hydropiper extract showed more skin permeability than liposome without surfactant ($Tego^{(R)}$ care 450).

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.315-324
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• 2015

In this study, we prepared liquid crystal emulsion composed of amphiphilic substance $C_{14-22}$ alcohol, $C_{12-20}$ alkyl glucoside, behenyl alcohol and studied liquid crystal emulsion of properties and in vitro skin permeation. The results of formulation experiments, the clear liquid crystalline structure was observed in the ratio of $C_{14-22}$ alcohol 0.8%, $C_{12-20}$ alkyl glucoside 3.2%, behenyl alcohol 4% in the formulation. The results of physical property measurements, the viscosity of liquid crystal emulsion and O/W emulsion applied as a control group was respectively $1871.26{\sim}1.15Pa{\cdot}s$, $1768.69{\sim}1.14Pa{\cdot}s$ and the shear stress of O/W emulsion was 178.68 ~ 909.18 Pa, that of liquid crystal emulsion was 190.45 ~ 919.38 Pa. The storage modulus of O/W emulsion was 3428.53 ~ 9157.45 Pa, that of liquid crystal emulsion was 4487.82 ~ 8195.59 Pa. The tan (delta) value of O/W emulsion which means a ratio of viscosity to elasticity was 0.43 ~ 0.19, and that of liquid crystal emulsion was 0.23 ~ 0.25. The water content value on the skin for liquid crystal emulsion was significantly higher from 1 h to 6 h compared with that of O/W emulsion and the transepidermal water loss on the skin was significantly superior in skin moisture loss suppression from 30 min to 4 h compared with that of O/W emulsion. The results of skin permeation using glycyrrhizic acid, the result of skin permeation amount of liquid crystal emulsion for 24 h was $64.58{\mu}g/cm^2$, that of O/W emulsion was $37.07{\mu}g/cm^2$, that of butylene glycol solution was $41.05{\mu}g/cm^2$. Hourly permeability results, it is showed that skin penetration effect of the liquid crystal emulsion increases after 8 h. These results suggest that liquid crystal emulsions are effective for skin moisturizing effect and function as potential efficacy ingredient delivery system for the transdermal delivery.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.263-278
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• 2004

Ursolic acid (UA) and Oleanolic acid (ONA), known as urson, micromerol and malol, are pentacyclic triterpenoid compounds which naturally occur in a large number of vegetarian foods, medicinal herbs, and plants. They may occur in their free acid form or as aglycones for triterpenoid saponins, which are comprised of a triterpenoid aglycone, linked to one or more sugar moieties. Therefore UA and ONA are similar in pharmacological activity. Lately scientific research, which led to the identification of UA and ONA, revealed that several pharmacological effects, such as antitumor, hepato-protective, anti-inflammatory, anticarcinogenic, antimicrobial, and anti-hyperlipidemic could be attributed to UA and ONA. Here, we introduced the effect of UA and ONA on acutely barrier disrupted and normal hairless mouse skin. To evaluate the effects of UA and ONA on epidermal permeability barrier recovery, both flanks of 8-12 week-old hairless mice were topically treated with either 0.01-0.1mg/mL UA or 0.1-1mg/mL ONA after tape stripping, and TEWL (transepidermal water loss) was measured. The recovery rate increased in those UA or ONA treated groups (0.1mg/mL UA and 0.5mg/mL ONA) at 6h more than 20% compared to vehicle treated group (p < 0.05). Here, we introduced the effects of UA and ONA on acute barrier disruption and normal epidermal permeability barrier function. For verifying the effects of UA and ONA on normal epidermal barrier, hydration and TEWL were measured for 1 and 3 weeks after UA and ONA applications (2mg/mL per day). We also investigated the features of epidermis and dermis using electron microscopy (EM) and light microscopy (LM). Both samples increased hydration compared to vehicle group from 1 week without TEWL alteration (p < 0.005). EM examination using RuO4 and OsO4 fixation revealed that secretion and numbers of lamellar bodies and complete formation of lipid bilayers were most prominent (ONA=UA > vehicle). LM finding showed that thickness of stratum corneum (SC) was slightly increased and especially epidermal thickening and flattening was observed (UA > ONA > vehicle). We also observed that UA and ONA stimulate epidermal keratinocyte differentiation via PPAR Protein expression of involucrin, loricrin, and filaggrin increased at least 2 and 3 fold in HaCaT cells treated with either ONA (10${\mu}$M) or UA (10${\mu}$M) for 24 h respectively. This result suggested that the UA and ONA can improve epidermal permeability barrier function and induce the epidermal keratinocyte differentiation via PPAR Using Masson-trichrome and elastic fiber staining, we observed collagen thickening and elastic fiber elongation by UA and ONA treatments. In vitro results of collagen and elastin synthesis and elastase inhibitory activity measurements were also confirmed in vivo findings. These data suggested that the effects of UA and ONA related to not only epidermal permeability barrier functions but also dermal collagen and elastic fiber synthesis. Taken together, UA and ONA can be relevant candidates to improve epidermal and dermal functions and pertinent agents for cosmeseutical applications.

• Korean Journal of Food Science and Technology
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• v.49 no.2
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• pp.173-180
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• 2017

This study evaluated the characteristics of rice cookies with varying amounts (0, 250, 500, and 750 mg) of dandelion complex powder. Dandelion powder is considered a functional food with skin-moisturizing and atopic skin improvement effects by KFDA. Quality characteristics of AF343 and rice cookies were measured by determining antimicrobial activities, physical characteristics, sensory evaluation values, and antioxidant activities. An antibiotic susceptibility test of the powder showed positive activities in Escherichia coli (O157:H7), Staphylococcus aureus, Bacillus cereus, and Listeria monocytogenes. Rice cookie containing 250-500 mg powder showed significantly increased antioxidant activities compared to controls (p<0.05). However, sensory intensities between the two sample groups were not significantly different. Thus, rice cookies containing 250-500 mg dandelion complex powder were successfully developed to improve antioxidant and antimicrobial qualities. These products may attract the attention of health-conscious consumers in the highly competitive cookie industry.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.157-165
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• 2010

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase and elastase of Rhododendron brachycarpum D. Don extracts were investigated. And the moisturizing effect of cream containing R. brachycarpum D. Don extract were investigated by clinical trial. The ethyl acetate fraction of R. brachycarpum D. Don extract (1.83 ${\mu}g/mL$) showed the most prominent the free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The 50 % extract fraction (0.064 ${\mu}g/mL$) showed the most prominent ROS scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of R. brachycarpum D. Don on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner (1 ~ 10 ${\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$) of R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts on tyrosinase were determined with ethyl acetate fraction of R. brachycarpum D. Don extract (70.5 ${\mu}g/mL$) and aglycone fraction of extract (122.40 ${\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$) on elastase were determined with ethyl acetate of R. brachycarpum D. Don extract (43.50 ${\mu}g/mL$) and aglycone fraction of extract (20.73 ${\mu}g/mL$). The cream containing the ethyl acetate fraction of R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts was formulated for skin hydration effect and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The cream containing R. brachycarpum D. Don extract was applied to the right lower arm. After 180 min, the water contents in skin were increased by 1 ~ 4 % than the placebo cream. And TEWL of parts was decreased as 7.7 $g/m^2h$ (experimental cream) and 8.9 $g/m^2h$ (placebo cream) respectively. These results indicate that extract/fractions of R. brachycarpum D. Don can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. And inhibitory activity on tyrosinase of the aglycone fraction could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for whitening and anti-wrinkle products. Also the increase of skin hydration of the cream containing extract could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antiaging.