• 디지털융복합연구
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.265-275
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• 2022

본 연구의 목적은 최근 여성 패션 컬렉션에 나타난 밀리터리 룩의 전환적 디자인 발상 사례를 분석하여 유형화하고 특성을 도출하는 것이다. 연구 방법은 밀리터리 룩에 관한 이론적 고찰과 패션 컬렉션 사례 분석의 순서로 진행하였다. 연구 결과는 사례 분석을 통해 총 6개의 전환적 디자인 발상 유형으로 분류되었다. 디자인의 구조 변화로 탈중심 유형, 확장과 축소의 유형, 소재 전체 변화, 혹은 일부 소재의 전환, 마지막으로 스타일링에 해당하는 이질적 조화와 유기적 결합에 따른 유형이다. 분류된 유형을 분석한 결과 총 3개의 특성이 도출되었는데, 첫째 구조적 요소의 재구성, 둘째 믹스매치의 매터리얼 확장, 셋째 스타일링의 감성적 융합이다. 뉴 밀리터리 룩의 전환적 발상 유형 연구를 통해 창의적인 디자인 발전의 원동력이 되며, 패션디자인 전반에 걸친 시대적 현황과 변화를 읽을 수 있는 기초 연구가 되기를 바란다.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2003년도 춘계학술대회
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• pp.35-35
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• 2003

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.1-20
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• 2010

The purposes of this study were to understand the military look in contemporary fashion by analyzing it based on the theory of Baudrillard, who offered explanations about images with the phenomenon of simulation, and provide basic data for the use of images in fashion by presenting new perspectives of images in fashion. The period from ancient times to the Renaissance does not belong to any of the three orders in Baudrillard's simulacra. In other words, there was no simulacrum created in the period according to his image changes. In the military look, however, the simulation phenomenon is different from his argument. To be specific, there is a "hyperreal" one as well as the simulacrum of "generalized image" as the simulacrum of a "transmuted image." It is because fashion exists only when it is worn widely by the imitations of others and in an inseparable relationship with imitation. In fashion, simulacra can always be found, which is one of the special qualities of fashion.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.381-393
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• 2007

This study was intended to analyze and investigate a diversity of aesthetic values expressed in the military look of the Milan collections by using content analysis method to find what design characteristic and image emerged concretely in the later 20th century. A total of 334 military look works shown in fashion magazines such as Vogue and Collezioni Donna over the period between 1996 and 2000 were collected as research data, which were classified into 5 categories such as item, silhouette, color, color coordination, fashion image. The results were summarized as follows: first, it was found that coat was the most preferred item in expressing the military look image. Second, it was found that the straight line was the most preferred silhouette, which indicates that it was the most suitable silhouette in expressing the bisexual image of the military look. Third, in the colors of the military look, achromatic colors such as black and white were found to be of the highest frequency, which shows that achromatic colors continued to be proposed as fashionable colors around 1996 and this influence was reflected in the military look. Finally, in terms of the item of color coordination, monochromatic coordination accounted for more than half of the military look, through which it could be explained that designers utilized it greatly to make an effective expression of the masculine image.

• 복식
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• 제61권3호
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• pp.83-96
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• 2011

It will be very effective in studying fashion images that reflect society to investigate the process of the images of military uniforms becoming fashion with the images as the original or image changes in the military look in relation to The hyperreal of the Simulation phenomenon. The foundation of the study was set up by studying simulation and simulacra. Studying the simulation phenomenon in fashion was followed by explaining the aspects of simulacra and the hyperreal in image changes in fashion to study and analyze the simulation phenomenon of the military look based on the findings. The study examined the military look from the Industrial Age to modern times through simulation and the hyperreal in the military look of modern fashion through the changes of images that started with military uniforms. Those research efforts led to the following conclusions: Looking into fashion through the military look reveals that The hyperreal made its appearance in most cases with few cases of the 1st and 2nd simulacrum. And hyperreality was closely related to media in fashion under the influence of media. In short, fashion and copy are in an inseparable relation, and the hyperreality phenomenon has always been present in modern fashion.

• 복식
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• 제62권1호
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• pp.62-75
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to analyze the color and color coordinations and their aesthetic values expressed in the military look designs from 1996 to 2000. The research data were gathered from Vogue and Collezioni Donna from this period. Total of 1004 works were collected and used for this study. The results were summarized as follows. In the colors of the military look, achromatic colors such as black and white were found to be of the highest quantity, which indicates that achromatic colors continued to be proposed as fashionable colors since 1996, and this influence was reflected in the military look. In terms of color coordination, monochromatic coordination accounted for 52.7% of the military look, through which it could be presumed that designers utilized it greatly to make an effective expression of the masculine image of the military designs.

• 복식
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• 제57권8호
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• pp.137-151
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• 2007

This study was aimed to analyze and investigate a diversity of aesthetic values expressed in the military look designs of the Paris collections by using content analysis method to find what design characteristic and image emerged in the later 20th century. A total of 267 military look works shown in fashion magazines such as Vogue and Collezioni Donna over the period between 1996 and 2000 were collected as research data, which were classified into 5 categories such as item, silhouette, color, color coordination, fashion image. The results were summarized as follows: first, it was found that coat was the most preferred item in expressing the military look image. Second, the straight line was the most referred silhouette, which indicates that it was the most suitable silhouette in expressing he bisexual image of the military look. Third, achromatic colors such as black and white were found to be of the highest frequency, which shows that achromatic colors continued to be proposed as fashionable colors around 1996 and this influence was effected in the military look. Finally, monochromatic coordination accounted for more than half of the military look, through which it could be explained that designers utilized it greatly to make an effective expression of the masculine image.

• 복식문화학회:학술대회논문집
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• 복식문화학회 2003년도 추계학술발표대회
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• pp.63-64
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• 2003

세계화의 물결은 자본운동의 자유를 극대화시키려는 ‘신자유주의’의 영향을 받아 탈규제화, 유연화, 개방화, 자유화의 특징을 보이고 있다. 신자유주의는 현 시기의 세계자본주의 체제의 가장 중요한 이데올로기적, 정치적 조류를 가리키는 개념으로써 시장적(市場的) 가치만을 절대시 한다. 이는 곧 ‘시민사회 가 활성화되는 속에서 시민사회가 실질적으로 소멸하는 현상’이 생겨남으로써 시민 사회적 전체주의에 이르게 만드는 신자유주의적 파시즘 체제를 일컫는다. (중략)

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.862-873
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of the Military style in the 20th century and the images of the Military look shown in recent collections. The results of this study are as follows; 1) The aesthetic values of the Military style includes authority, functionality, resistibility and bisexuality. Authority is represented in suits and coats attaching details such as epaulets, flap pockets, gold buttons and badges. Functionality is represented in pants suits and skirts suits which are comfortable and simple. Resistibility is represented in wrinkled, dirty-old and torn military items. Bisexuality is shown on the military pants suits that a skirt or a mink coat is draped over. 2) The Military look in collections are expressed in classic, romantic, sexual, sporty, avant-garde and ethnic images. Classic images are appeared in suits and coats attaching details such as epaulets, flap pockets, gold buttons and badges. Romantic images are represented in the military items made of pastel-tone lace or splendid colored silk. Sexual images are appeared in designs to expose or to focus in women's body. Sporty images are represented in the military items made of new materials such as cotton-fleece, cotton-jersey and tencel. They have camouflage prints, melange-gray and fluorescent colors. Avant-garde images are appeared in the deformed suits and outer made of special materials with camouflage prints, khaki, gray and black. Ethnic images are represented in wearing military and ethnic items at the same time or military items made of ethnic colors, prints and handmade details.

• 디자인학연구
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• 18호
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• pp.87-96
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• 1996

본 연구에서는 청색을 대상으로 하여, 청색이 전달하는 이미지의 색채표현 특성을 파악한 후, 색채관련 문헌자료의 고찰을 통하여 상징적 측면에서 청색이미지를 분류하였다. 또한, 20세기 이후의 복식 룩(look)을 중심으로 하여 복식에 나타난 청색이미지를 고찰하였고 국내 의류제품에 사용된 청색의 색채경향을 파악하여 복식에 주로 사용된 청색과 그 이미지를 분류하였다. 연구결과, 청색은 한색, 후퇴 색, 진정 색이라는 청색의 색채표현 특성에 의하여 긍정적인 이미지로서는 신성함, 고귀함, 무한함, 정신, 낭만, 깨끗함, 차가움의 이미지를 전달하였고 부정적인 이미지로 우울함, 반항, 악마 등의 이미지를 전달하였다. 현대 서구 여성복식에서는 회색 띤 색조를 제외한 다양한 청색 조가 사용된 것으로 나타났으며, 특히 복식에서는 클래식 룩과, 워크웨어 룩, 밀리터리 룩, 마린 룩 등에서 어두운 청색이 주요한 이미지 요소로 작용하여 전통적인, 보수적인, 남성적인, 딱딱한, 절제된 이미지를 나타내거나 흰색과 배색되어 산뜻한 이미지를 나타내었다. 최근 국내 의류제품에 사용된 청색의 색채경향 분석결과에서는 보라 띤 청색의 주로 연하거나 어두운 색조가 많이 사용되는 것으로 파악되었다. '97/'98 F/W까지의 유행 예측 색으로서의 청색에서는 녹색 띤 청색과 보라 띤 청색의 연하고 밝고, 탁한 색조가 제시된 것으로 나타났다.