• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.233-240
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• 2010

Derivatives of a novel natural compunds, melanostatin (PLG-$NH_2$) were prepared by solid phase synthesis[1,2] and assayed to evaluate their melanogensis inhibitory activity. Also, a small library (natural compound-XLG-$NH_2$, natural compound-X LG-OH) was prepared with same method for increasing synthetic yield and cost-reduction. PLG-$NH_2$ (Proline-Leucine-Glycine-$NH_2$) was well-known tripeptide as its $\alpha$-MSH release-inhibiting activity and tyrosinase inhibitory activity[3-5]. In order to choose best candidate for peptide derivatization, various natural compounds were screened by their tyrosinase inhibitory activity. As a result, caffeic acid and coumaric acid were selected. Most of these derivatives showed better activities than the parent natural compound, melanostatin.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.39 no.3
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• pp.205-213
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• 2013

This study was to improve cosmetical activity of thiamine di-lauryl sulfate (TDS) by encapsulation of nanoparticle with lecithin. Results showed that most of the nanoparticles containing the TDS were well formed in round shape with below 150 ~ 200 nm diameter as well as they were fairly stable in various pH ranges by measuring zeta potentials. The nanoparticles of TDS resulted in 85% cell viability of human normal fibroblast cells (CCD-986sk) when added at the highest concentration (1.0 mg/mL). The nanoparticles of Acer mono sap showed highest free radical scavengering effect as 88.1% in adding sample (1.0 mg/mL), compared to TDS solution of non-encapsulation (81.6%). The nanoparticles of TDS reduced the expression of MMP-1 on UV-irradiated CCD-986sk cells down to as 41.4%. The TDS solution and nanoparticles showed significant anti-microbial activities agaionst the salmonella typhimurium and listeria monocytogenes at 5 and 6 days as compared with control. Anti-microbial activities of TDS nanoparticles were similar to positive control. These results indicated that TDS nanoparticles may be a source for functional cosmetic agents capable of improving cosmetical activity such as antioxidant, whitening, and anti-wrinkling effects and can be further developed as natural preservative in cosmetics.

• Food Science and Preservation
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.307-314
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• 2024

Broussonetia kazinoki twig extract (BKT) is recognized for its antioxidant and anti-cancer effects and natural whitening properties. So, it is used as a raw material for cosmetics. B. kazinoki twig is also an edible raw material. B. kazinoki has been used in Asia for paper production and oriental medicine, has anti-diabetic effects, and contains various flavonoids and alkaloids. In this study, to evaluate the efficacy of BKT on allergic skin inflammatory responses, we investigated its effects on factors related to skin inflammation in HaCaT keratinocytes and allergic responses in RBL-2H3 cells. There was no cytotoxicity of the 70% ethanol extract against HaCaT and RBL-2H3 cells. In HaCaT cells, stimulation with tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-𝛼) and interferon-gamma (IFN-𝛾) increased the production of several chemokines, including thymus and activation-regulated chemokine (TARC), macrophage-derived chemokine (MDC), and regulated on activation, normal T cell expressed and secreted (RANTES). However, it was observed that this elevation was notably mitigated in a concentration-dependent manner upon treatment with BKT. Furthermore, BKT treatment demonstrated a significant reduction of 𝛽-hexosaminidase and inflammatory cytokines TNF-𝛼 and IL-4 in IgE-sensitized RBL-2H3 cells. Thus, it is expected that BKT can be used as a natural cosmetic and food ingredient that effectively suppresses allergic inflammatory reactions.

• Food Science and Preservation
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.393-401
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• 2016

The phenolic compounds extracted from Aster scaber were examined for their biological activities owing to their potential use in health and beauty food products. The phenolic content in water and 60% ethanol extracts were $11.1{\pm}0.11$ and $4.18{\pm}0.05mg/g$, respectively. The DPPH radical scavenging activities of the water and ethanol extracts were 87% and 91% at $50{\mu}g$ phenolics/mL, respectively. At the same phenolics concentration, the respective extracts showed 84% and 95% for ABTS radical decolorization activities and 95% and 97% for TBARs. The antioxidant protection factors for the water and ethanol extracts at $200{\mu}g$ phenolics/mL were 1.87 and 2.22 PF, respectively. Enzyme inhibitory activities of the water and ethanol extracts ($50{\mu}g$ phenolics/mL) were 50.8% and 69.4% on angiotensin converting enzyme, 91% and 80% on xanthine oxidase, and 24% and 89% on ${\alpha}$-amylase, respectively. The tyrosinase inhibitory activities indicating skin-whitening were 47% and 25% for the water and ethanol extracts, respectively. Anti-wrinkle effect of the water extract was relatively higher than that of the ethanol extract. These results suggest that the water and ethanol extracts of Aster scaber can be used as an ingredient in health and beauty food products.

• Applied Chemistry for Engineering
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.93-99
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• 2012

In this study, the evaluation of antioxidative activity and componential analysis of C. obtusa leaf extracts was carried out. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of C. obtusa leaf extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The ethyl acetate fraction ($OSC_{50}$; 0.22 ${\mu}g/mL$) and aglycone fraction of C. obtusa leaf extracts (0.20 ${\mu}g/mL$) showed about 7 times more prominent ROS scavenging activity than L-ascorbic acid (1.50 ${\mu}g/mL$). The cellular protective effects of fractions obtained from C. obtusa leaf extracts on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction and aglycone fraction of C. obtusa leaf extracts showed the cellular protective effects in a concentration dependent manner (5~25 ${\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effect ($IC_{50}$) of ethyl acetate fraction and aglycone fraction on tyrosinase exhibited 74.43 and 53.80 ${\mu}g/mL$, repectively. The aglycone fraction showed four times higher tyrosinase inhibitory effect than arbutin (226.88 ${\mu}g/mL$), known as a whitening agent. The aglycone fraction of C. obtusa leaf extracts showed three bands in TLC chromatogram and three peaks in HPLC chromatogram (360 nm). Three compounds were identified as taxifolin, quercetin and kaempferol. These results indicate that the fractions of C. obtusa leaf extracts can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against reactive oxygen species. The fractions of C. obtusa leaf extracts can be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antioxidan and whitening effects.

• Journal of dental hygiene science
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.176-182
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• 2016

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the in-vitro efficacy of the active ingredients of dentifrice following treatment time. The whitening effect was evaluated by a change in lightness value relative to the contact time of hydrogen peroxide, by using artificially stained hydroxyapatite discs. The anti-calculus effect was assessed based on the amount of calcium eluted from the human dental calculus by sodium pyrophosphate. Remineralization was evaluated by the Vickers hardness test following the application of sodium fluoride to bovine enamel. In order to view dentinal tubules occlusion, the formation of insoluble calcium salts by bovine dentin specimens was observed using scanning electron microscopy. Change in lightness value (${\Delta}L$) was $5.50{\pm}1.51$ after 1 min of treatment, $5.73{\pm}0.43$ after 3 min, $8.64{\pm}0.24$ after 10 min, $18.93{\pm}0.76$ after 30 min, and $27.35{\pm}0.54$ after 60 min. The amount of calcium eluted from the human dental calculus was $4.23{\pm}0.14ppm$ after 1 min of treatment, $4.51{\pm}0.04ppm$ after 3 min, $12.12{\pm}0.16ppm$ after 10 min, $17.85{\pm}0.81ppm$ after 30 min, and $25.15{\pm}0.32ppm$ after 60 min. The Vickers hardness change value (${\Delta}VHN$) was $1.96{\pm}1.44$ after 1 min, $1.52{\pm}1.06$ after 3 min, $9.06{\pm}0.15$ after 10 min, $10.83{\pm}5.13$ after 30 min, and $12.55{\pm}2.09$ after 60 min. Partial dentinal tubules occlusion was observed at 10 min and complete occlusion was evident at 60 min. In summary, the use of patch type dentifrices for 10, 30, or 60 min were 1.57 to 8.26 times more effective than using the paste type dentifrices for 1 to 3 min. Based on these findings, it is reasonable to expect that the use of patch type dentifrices for 10 min would lead to remineralization, anti-calculus and dentinal tubules occlusion effects, and that use for 30 min would result in a whitening effect.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.197-201
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• 2007

Oil soluble licorice extract(licorice extract) is an officially approved cosmetic component as a whitening ingredient in Korea. The durability of licorice, during which the whitening effect can be maintained in optimum condition, must be accurately defined. Since the cosmetics durability under real condition is relatively longer than its development time. It is needed to predict the real durability interval from the experimental measurement under simulated operating conditions. We analyzed the relationship between the licorice lifetime and the high temperature condition by using Arrhenius equation. We have established the constant stress test with temperature of $50^{\circ}C$, $55^{\circ}C$, and $60^{\circ}C$ condition, within which no formulation change of licorice products is expected for the accelerated stress test. In this paper, the lifetime of licorice in cosmetics was defined as time period for its 10% contents reduction. We observed that the lifetime of licorice is 580 h at $50^{\circ}C$, 319 h at $55^{\circ}C$ and 166 h at $60^{\circ}C$. Using the above experimental data, we obtained the equation for the relationship between the licorice lifetime and temperature as follows; log(lifetime)=-35.0243 + 1.15322$\times$(11604.83/temperature). From this equation, the lifetime of licorice at $25^{\circ}C$ can be estimated as 26 months. The estimated result was verified by measuring full lifetime of licorice. In fact, there was no significant difference between the estimated lifetime and real measurement within 95 % significance level. This study can be applied to other useful cosmetic components for the fast estimation of the exact durability.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.259-268
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• 2008

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase and elastase and components of Castanea crenata leaf were investigated. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$) of extract / fractions of Castanea crenata left was in the order: 50% ethanol extract ($13.6{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate fraction (6.2) < aglycone fraction (2.1). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$ of extract / fractions from Castanea crenata leaf extract / fractions on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activity was in the order: aglycone fraction (0.8) < 50% ethanol extract (0.5) < ethyl acetate fraction (0.3). The scavenging activity ($IC_{50}$ for ${O_2}^{{\cdot}\;-}$ (superoxide anion radical) generated by NBT method was in the order: ethyl acetate fraction (145.5) < aglycone fraction (65.5). The protective effects on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction exhibited the most prominent cellular protective effect (${\tau}_{50}$, $191.9{\pm}12.2\;min$ at $10{\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction ($9.1{\mu}g/mL$) on elastase was higher than oleanolic and ($13.7{\mu}g/mL$). And the inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction ($21.6{\mu}g/mL$) on tyrosinase was higher than arbutin ($226.2{\mu}g/mL$). But 50% ethanol extract rarely exhibited the inhibitory activity on tryosinase and elastase. Flavonoids were contained in Castanea crenata left (96.3 mg / 100 g dried Castanea crenata leaf). And flavonoids contained in ethyl acetate fraction were kaempferol, quercetin, quercitrin, and so on. Quercitrin is the most abundant component. These results indicate that extract / fractions of Castanea crenata can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging free radical and ROS, Castanea crenata leaf extract/ fractions could be used as new cosmeceutical for whitening and anti-wrinkle products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.175-182
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• 2010

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase of Cedrela sinensis extracts were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction of extract ($3.54\;{\mu}g/mL$) and aglycone fraction of extract ($2.15\;{\mu}g/mL$) showed more excellent free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$) than the activity of (+)-$\alpha$-tocopherol ($8.98\;{\mu}g/mL$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of Cedrela sinensis extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The ethyl acetate fraction of extract ($0.15\;{\mu}g/mL$) and aglycone fraction of extract ($0.12\;{\mu}g/mL$) showed 10 times more excellent ROS scavenging activity than activity of L-ascorbic acid ($1.50\;{\mu}g/mL$). The protective effects of fractions of Cedrela sinensis on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction of extract and aglycone fraction of extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner ($5{\sim}25\;{\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effect of Cedrela sinensis extracts on tyrosinase was investigated to assess their whitening efficacy. Inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$) on tyrosinase were determined with ethyl acetate fraction of Cedrela sinensis extract ($48.00\;{\mu}g/mL$) and aglycone fraction of extract ($5.88\;{\mu}g/mL$). The aglycone fraction showed 40 times more remarkable tyrosinase inhibitory effect than whitening agent, arbutin ($226.88\;{\mu}g/mL$) These results indicate that fractions of Cedrela sinensis can be used as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. The fractions of Cedrela sinensis can be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antioxidant and whitening.

• Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.61 no.3
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• pp.267-273
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• 2018

Matricaria chamomilla L. has been used as a bath agent in Europe because of its sterilization effect on the skin. Flowers contain terpenes, flavonoids are effective in relieving inflammation. Matricaria chamomilla L. has been reported to have various drug efficacies such as sedation, anti-diabetic effect and anti-arthritic effect, but there is little research on the scientific efficacy of whitening effect. The purpose of this study was to examine the whitening effect of Matricaria chamomilla L. extract and to investigate the mechanism of inhibition of melanogenesis. The extracts were used to determine tyrosinase inhibitory activity. The tyrosinase inhibitory activity of extracts was ineffective for water extract but in 60% ethanol extract was shown in a concentration-dependent manner. B16F10 melanoma cell was measured using a powder obtained by lyophilization of 60% ethanol extract. The toxicity was observed at a concentration of $75{\mu}g/mL$. And concentration range was selected to be at most $50{\mu}g/mL$. The effect of tyrosinase, MITF, TRP-1 and TRP-2 on the expression of melanin protein was investigated in melanoma cells of B16F10 melanoma cells. As a result, it was confirmed that as the concentration of the extract increased, the melanogenesis level decreased and the protein expression level also decreased in a concentration dependent manner. Therefore, it was concluded that Matricaria chamomilla L. extract inhibited melanogenesis in cells. Based on the above results, it is expected that it will be used as a useful basic data for industrialization of whitening functional food of Matricaria chamomilla L.