• 건축사
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• 통권608호
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• pp.14-15
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• 2019

• 건축사
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• 통권640호
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• pp.120-121
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• 2022

• 한국화예디자인학연구
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• 제40호
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• pp.45-61
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• 2019

본 논문에서는 공간을 이루는 모든 것을 보여주는 '메종 & 오브제' 전시회의 최근 경향을 알아보고 이러한 '그린어메너티'가 적용된 사례를 찾아보았다. 형태적 측면에서 미니멀한 공간을 곡선의 형태로 채웠고 점차 자연을 재현하는 디자인이 제작되었다. 점차 새롭게 맥시멀리즘이 대두되어 디자인에 장식적인 요소가 가미되어 공예적인 제품이 많이 나타났다. 재료적 측면에서는 자연주의 감성이 대세로 자연적인 목재소재가 주로 사용되었다. 이러한 재료는 다양한 이질재료와 결합하여 새로운 디자인을 완성하며 자연적 요소를 공간 안에 형상화하였다. 색채적 측면에서는 2016년은 테마가 '와일드 (Wild)'로 야생자연을 체험할 수 있는 공간을 볼 수 있었다. 나무의 갈색과 초록색을 중심으로 자연의 다채로운 색채를 보여주었다. 2017년의 '사일런스 (Silence)'는 핑크 컬러의 특징이 돋보인다. 또한 따뜻한 느낌의 적갈색 계열의 가구가 제작되었다. 예전엔 황동이나 로즈 골드가 유행이었다면 2017년은 골드나 실버 색상의 제품이 더 대세를 보였다. 2018년은 '쇼룸(Show-Room)'이 테마로 대표 색채는 초록색으로 노랑, 분홍과 함께 새롭게 디자인에 영향 주었다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.173-182
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• 2022

As consumption pattern and fashion communication become digitalized, fashion houses are being inherited by creative directors owing to their expanding role. While the roles and responsibilities of creative directors have been changing extensively along with the dynamic nature of the fashion industry, researches on creative directions have mostly focused on luxury brands. This study examined the creative direction of John Galliano for Maison Margiela, a conceptual brand to be maintained by a creative director. To analyze this, the authors established a creative direction analysis model constituting five elements: brand heritage, trend, democratization, brand status, and persona, drawing on the luxury brand architecture by Kapferer and Bastien. Thus, Galliano has maintained anonymity as a heritage of Maison Margiela, expanding the existing Replica lines, and introduced fashion shows focusing on current issues or social phenomena. As a democratization strategy, he directed the brand to associate with more popular brands or expanded diffusion lines to secure broader customer base, while demonstrating couturier-like showmanship in the media and establishing his own persona. His direction for Maison Margiela recreates and expands brand heritage by transforming the brand philosophy. Therefore the new creative direction communicates with the wider public and diversifies customer bases through democratization strategies, while building Galliano's own persona.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.1302-1319
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to investigate the means by which designers communicate their philosophies and messages through fashion exhibitions, which are one of the communication methods that use visual images, by focusing on the aesthetics of fashion exhibition design. For this study, previous studies related to design exhibitions were analyzed, in addition to the related theoretical background, by examining the existing literature and conducting an illustrative study on fashion exhibitions. Our illustrative study focused on the aesthetic meanings of exhibitions held by the fashion brand Maison Martin Margiela over the past 10 years. According to our analyses, the fashion philosophy of fashion designer Martin Margiela's was reflected by Maison Martin Margiela in the exhibition design. After studying the features of Maison Martin Margiela's exhibition design, the inner values of deconstructivism and mysticism and appearance techniques of trompe-l'oeil, white spirit and assemblage were observed. This study aims to supply basic data for an active research on consilience and communication conducted in fashion communication field through a fashion exhibition designed to be seen as a work, an objet of the exhibition. In-depth studies on the cultural and aesthetical aspects of fashion exhibitions should be carried out, not only based on the sense of sight but also the senses of touch and hearing. Next, theories should be established on fashion scenography, to consider the use of the space design of fashion shows, presentations and advertising and movies to communicate fashion.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.17-30
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to consider and analyze the VM's characteristics of Maison Herm$\grave{e}$s which has tried continuously space presentations through the sensibility and differentiated strategy focusing on the flagship store window displays of Herm$\grave{e}$s. The framework for analysis of this study is established by related precedent studies. The results of this study were drawn through qualitative analysis of experts' group. The results of this study are as follows. Maison Herm$\grave{e}$s window displays have been unfolded a total of 57 times for 10 years, and have introduced a variety of themes by cooperating with 40 artists in various fields. Herm$\grave{e}$s set up eight types of themes in order to show the window displays, and these themes have been developed by the method of display presentation such as surrealistic, symbolic, mood, realistic, information. A majority of the participating artists was the Japanese. In addition, the display components such as the materials that can be easily accessible in everyday life, the object productions that were embodied the tangible and intangible image, the nostalgia, the child's world, good, colors, etc., were most frequently utilized for an effective display presentation of the themes that have been set according to each season. The most frequently used development techniques applied Herm$\grave{e}$s windows' VP were the 'd$\acute{e}$paysement', 'the descriptive narrative', and 'scene of dramatic contrast'. It turned out that a majority of the primary colors to make up Herm$\grave{e}$s window displays were analyzed by the red-orange and white color.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.135-152
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to explore the role of deconstruction and creative destruction in Maison Margiela’s fashion design code, which has opened the door to a new wave of innovative design since 1988. Using a combination of theoretical analysis, precedent research, and a review of existing literature, five years of Maison Margiela's works (2010-2014) were evaluated. The analysis shows that Maison Margiela’s Design Code consists of the following key elements: Addition, Extension, Asymmetry, Elimination, Deconstruction, Complanation, and Inversion. Addition refers to act of attaching additional pieces of fabric or clothing on the existing piece. Extension refers to the act of extending the design elements, such as their position or features. Asymmetry means the irregular positioning of left-to right and front-to-back length and features. Deconstruction could be seen in intentionally frayed sleeves, open seams, and tears in the cloth. The element of Elimination was evident in the removal of key pieces of clothing such as a coat, pants, blouse, and a jacket. Complanation refers to the reversion to a two dimensional contemplation of the human form rather than the more obvious 3-dimensional form. Finally, Inversion was used by displaying an inner layer of clothing on the outside or exposing seams or zippers in a way that people are not accustomed to seeing. It also meant that the order of wearing clothes was sometimes inverted, so external layers would be worn within clothing that are traditionally underneath. Maison Margiela’s creations represented a break

• 복식
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• 제53권2호
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• pp.57-70
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• 2003

Modern Haute Couture represents artistic views through its image. symbol, and originality. Haute Couture's original art has been kept as a design technics which is the fusion of timely, original Maison's concept, plastic beauty as designer's personality. Christian Dior's maison continued by Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferr'e and John Galliano who emphasize elegant image which has avant-garde trends came from post modernism. Christian Dior Haute Couture's design which can be symbolized by the feature of timely variation and new feeling of continuing designers has the following originalities. 1. Christian Dior Haute Couture's design has been affected by the timely art-trends. 2. Christian Dior Haute Couture's design concept is represented as Nobly Chic Elegance. Feminine Elegance. Sophisticately Chic Elegance, Fantastically humourous Elegance therfore, the traditional concept of Elegance are maintained. 3. Christian Dior Haute Couture's design technic not only emphasizes the details of collars and up side of clothes or trimming but also persuits the total beauty of balanceness with the harmony of the evenness between other factors.