• 한국감성과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국감성과학회 2007년도 춘계학술대회 및 국제감성 심포지엄
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• pp.109-113
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• 2007

본 논문은 칼라 패턴의 감성 평가를 위해 러프 집합 이론이 효과적으로 사용될 수 있음을 보여준다. 우리는 주어진 랜덤 칼라 패턴을 보여주고 사람들로 하여금 감성 평가를 하게 하여 수집된 심리학적 실험 데이터를 기반으로 VPRS(Variable Precision Rough Set) 이론을 적용, 관련 규칙들을 추출하였다. 이러한 규칙들은 벽지 등의 컬러 패턴들에 대한 근사적인 감성 평가 뿐만 아니라, 이미지 속성 공간을 언어적 이미지 스케일로 표현된 감성 공간으로 매핑 시키기 위한 적응 퍼지 시스템 등의 초기 조건으로도 사용할 수도 있다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권2호
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• pp.167-180
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• 2011

The portraits created in the age of Queen Elizabeth I show a very exquisite description about the ruff collar and cuffs representing the notable evolution of periodical costumes from a detailed viewpoint. This thesis analyzes the ruff collar and cuffs of the portraits of Queen Elizabeth I. The method used selects 32 pieces from the portraits of Queen Elizabeth I that are considered excellent depictions of a ruff collar and cuffs, to investigate size, form and decorations. Conclusively, the ruff collar tends to be extremely enlarged and thickened (coinciding with the development of glue) while the cuffs denote the aspect of double cuffs coupled with the turn-back cuffs without a change in size. These traits were widely shown from 1585 to 1587, while after 1588 the ruff cuffs completely disappeared in the portraits of Elizabeth I. At the same time, the change of a ruff collar was remarkable, the collar being in the erect position behind the head (with the use of supporters), of a consistent thickness and decoration of elaborate lace. During the transition period from the $16^{th}$ century to the $17^{th}$ century the earliest change was in cuffs followed by collars. This research is a helpful guide to detect the relatively exact date of portraits not definitively identified in the latter part of the $16^{th}$ century and to observe the microscopic evolution of costumes in the latter part of the $16^{th}$ century.

• 자연과학논문집
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.153-174
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• 1998

95년이후의 FASHION TREND를 보면 단일 지향에 머물지 않고 다양한 상상력이 기초가 된다. 특히 여성복에 있어 여성들의 사회진출과 확실한 위치를 차지하면서 여성스러움으로 돌아가려고 한다. 그 중에서도 특히 르네상스 패션의 경향은 다음과 같은 현대복식의 장식미를 보여주고 있다. ${\cdot}$ 러프칼라모양의과장된 칼라 ${\cdot}$ 과장된소매나 스토마커등의 실루엣 ${\cdot}$ 디프하며 리치한 칼라, 벨벳소재등이 많이 표현되어진다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권4호
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• pp.32-45
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is, to renew understanding the aesthetic value of a ruff collar and to expand the border of creation in designing as the source of inspiration being applied to an retro style by inquiring various ruff collars re-illuminated in the present-day fashion trend. The ruff collar investigated through the above historical contemplation became the source of inspirations in the current retro trend and was variously modified in modern fashion. In the 1980s, we can find a dignified and feminine image in graceful and exquisite suits or dresses. Especially, the spanish round ruff of the 2st period appeared on works by a lot of designers. From the application by designers like John Galliano in the latter half of the 80s, we can be well aware that the meaning of decoration was newly altered. In the 1990s, the ruff collar was shown in various fashion style, but it was what was reborn as a factor of modern fashion through a liberal compromise and harmony. Various style was shown from exaggeratedly swelling one to smaller one, which were more diversely applied than that of the 80s. A Medici collar and a Queen Elizabeth collar were also displayed being fitted to a modern sense by Vivienne Westwood and Louis F raud. A ruff in the 2000s was settled as a factor of modern fashion, exposing on works of designers more often than in the 1980s and 90s. The spanish round ruff appeared on garments, while a Medici collar and a Queen Elizabeth collar went out of sight. A new form of the ruff was regenerated by extreme magnification and simplification, and several designers like Issey Miyake and Alexander Mcqueen brought forward a new way in materials and technical skills. According to this research, a ruff collar developed as a fashion factor which characterizes a certain period of time, reflecting the aesthetical sense of Renaissance and turning into various and distinct forms. Afterwards, it exerted influence on modern fashion. This is offering the source of inspiration to contemporary designers.