• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.12 s.159
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• pp.1723-1729
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• 2006

Drapability is an important factor determining the end-use of fabrics. In this research, characteristics of drapability of men's and women's suit fabrics were analyzed. The hand and the preference for suit fabrics were measured by the subjective and objective evaluations. To find out the details of the drapability characteristics of suit fabrics, the drape was measured by using Cusick drape tester and was processed by image analysis software. Seasonal difference was obvious both in men's and women's fabrics. The average drape ratio of women's S/S suit fabrics showed the highest value, 0.724, then decreased in the order of men's F/W> men's S/S> women's FW. Wave amplitude showed the same order to the drape ratio. Men's fabrics were more drapable in spring and summer season rather than in fall and winter season. Women's fabrics showed the opposite trend, in other words, S/S suit fabrics were less drapable than F/W fabrics. There was also a significant difference in drape ratio between men's and women's fabrics regardless of season. For S/S, men's fabrics were more drapable than women's ones, whereas, for F/W, women's fabrics were more drapable.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.111-121
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• 2012

This study focused on the plane and side drape coefficients of weft knitted fabrics as a function of knit structure, stitch density, and stiffness. Fifteen weft knitted fabrics are produced with five different structures (interlock, single pique, royal interlock, cross miss interlock, and mock royal interlock) and three different gauges (7G, 10G, and 12G). Five knit structures were the application of knit, tuck, and miss stitch on the basis of interlock of the double knit fabric For this purpose, three-dimensional shapes of the draped sample were obtained by using a drapability tester which can record the contour line coordinates of a projected plane drape. Then, projected shapes of the plane and side drape were derived from those three-dimensional ones to review the relationship between plane drape coefficients and side ones. It was found that the theoretical values of plane and side drape coefficients depending on the change of deflection angles fit to their experimental ones. A5 a result of a regression analysis of the relationship between plane and side drape coefficients, the relationship could be expressed as $y=0.5838x-0.0065x^2+9.03{\times}10^{-5}x^3$. In case of mean of drape coefficient, it was increased according to the rule of that the more tuck and miss stitch overlap. A high degree of correlation was found between stiffness and drape coefficient. The regression equation of drape coefficient($y$) can be represented by $y=y=\sqrt[3]{Stiffness}-10.72$.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.252-258
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• 1999

The aims of this study is to classify the lower somatotype of adult women and appearance analysis on the shape of flare skirts by using the image processing. Also We have made skirts in order to analyze the various types of appearance of flare skirts by using the image processing. The subjects for our wear test lower somatotype, who were controlled in their waist, abdomen and hip shapes. The flare skirts used for wear test were 112 types(combinated 14 fabric type and 8 lower somatotype). The effect of lower somatotype on the shape of flare skirts was determined by the horizontally hem line section shape and the silhouette of flare skirts with image processing. The data were analyzed by using analysis of variance and Turkey, Duncan multiple range test. The results obtained are summarized as follows: It is shown that the fabric weight elongation differs in fabrics properties, in direction of textures. The shape horizontal section of flare skirt hem line has differed with the number of nodes, wave-height of nodes and breadth of silhouette by fabrics properties and lower somatotype. It is noticed that the breadth of flare skirts by the silhouette has high correlation with the drape ability of fabrics and lower somatotype. Results for our flare skirts show changes in amplitude and mean with fabrics, somatotype. Therefore we can say that gray-level histograms are correlated with changes in appearance, differences in drape spacing and related fabric properties and their somatotype.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.519-526
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• 1996

To investigate the relationship between plane and side drape coefficient, the drape tester designed in which coordinate of projected outline of draped specimen could be recorded. By using this drape tester, the three dimensional shape, plane and side drape coefficient were obtained from coordinate of plane projected shape, and furthermore examined the tendency in changes of drape coefficient in terms of diameter of specimen, deflection angle, and bending rigidity. The side drape coefficients were constant regardless of changes in diameter of specimen. The plane drape coefficients, however, made a little difference according to changes in diameter of specimen. The experimental drape coefficient agreed well with the theoretical drape coefficient according to deflection angle. In the meanwhile, when the plane drape coefficients were regressed with the side drape coefficents, regression equation was $y=0.375x-0.002x^2+6.9\times10^{-5}x^3$. When the $\overline{\theta_s}$ is mean of deflection angle of selected points which have the longest and shortest distance from center point in the node, the theoretical drape coefficient calculated from $\overline{\theta_s}$ has high correlation with experimental drape coefficient. The plane and side drape coefficient changed linearly with increasing the bending length, $\sqrt[3]{EI/w}$.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.139-148
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• 1998

This study was performed to develop the flare skirt pattern in CAD system by each of the textile's test. 1 made 28 flare skirts(360$^{\circ}$, length of 60 cm, straight gram at front ST side seam, 28 kind of textiles) and found the changes of skirt length. And I measured thickness, weight, density, drapability and bending in these textiles. Therefore, It analyzed these data and found it regression.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.191-196
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• 2011

Fabric extraction force measured through nozzle tester reflects a comprehensive fabric handle. Nozzle tester takes advantage of low cost, and simple and fast operating procedure compared with KES system. The paper is to develop the semi-emprical equation for assessment of the fabric handle measured with nozzle tester on the basis of friction law. The variables considered in the equation arc fabric's frictional coefficient and drape coefficient which is determined in terms of fabric bending length and shear strain. The experiment of 12 different cotton and polyester fabrics and comparisons between experimental and theoretical results were conducted. Fabrics of high frictional coefficients, high bending length, and low shear strain showed high fabric handle forces (low handle values). The handle forces predicted from the equation agreed well with those measured, which indicates that the equation can be used to objectively evaluate fabric handle with respect to fabric's own properties and also provide an information for fabric design to improve the handle performance.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.103-114
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• 2011

During a wearer's movement, the apparel fabric layers collide each other in a highly complicated manner. The collision involves cloth-cloth, and cloth-body collision. The diversity of the textile fabrics, including silk, wool, cotton, and other synthetic fibers, together with the complex details of the apparel construction, makes the collision and other calculation procedure involved in the 3-dimensional clothing software system much more complicated. Therefore, there is a need to measure the behavior of the fabrics during the fabric collision cycles. In this study, as a first step, static measurements pertinent to the factors governing the appearance of the apparel fabrics were implemented. The drape profile, stiffness(Sd and Sf), tensile properties, thickness, and the air permeability were measured. The correlation between the parameters were calculated and reviewed. It is found that there is a high correlation of 0.97 between the actual fabric drape parameters and the 3D virtual fabric drape parameters. The measured drape coefficients of the fabrics show relatively good correlation with the measured fabric stiffness.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 1999.03a
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• pp.219-219
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• 1999

마직물은 통기성, 흡수성, 투습성이 좋고 건조가 빠른 편이므로 여름철 직물로 많이 사용되어 왔다. 마직물은 또한 뻣뻣하며 몸에 감기지 않고 촉감이 깔깔하여 시원한 느낌을 주며 다른 직물에 비해 강직하고 표면이 거칠고 드레이프성이 떨어지는 등의 독특한 태를 가지고 있다. KES-F 시험기에 의해 여러 물성량들을 종합적으로 계측할 수 있게 됨에 따라 의복의 착용감에 만족을 주는 소재의 성능에 대한 연구가 종래의 주관적평가에서 KES-F 시스템을 이용하여 객관적으로 태를 예측하는 방법으로 진행되고 있다. 그러나 태를 평가하는 객관적 방법에서는 일반적으로 Kawabata와 Niwa에 의해 만들어진 평가식들이 주로 사용되나 이런 식들은 주로 모직물이나 합성섬유직물들을 평가하기에는 적합하지만 마직물의 독특한 태를 평가하기에는 부족하다고 생각된다. 마직물의 태가 기존의 객관적 평가방법만으로는 규명되지 않기 때문에 주관적 태평가방법을 아울러 실시해야 할 필요가 있다고 생각된다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 마직물의 태를 평가하는 방법의 하나로 주관적 평가척도를 개발하고 이 척도를 사용하여 마직물의 주관적인 태 특성을 살펴보았다. 그리고 KES-FB 시스템을 사용한 객관적인 태를 측정하여 주관적 평가치와 객관적 측정치로부터 태 평가의 산출식을 유도하였다. 실험에 사용된 직물은 혼방률, 밀도, 두께 등이 다양한 암, 저마 그리고 마혼방직물과 한산모시, 중국마, 신합섬 직물 등 총 54종을 사용하였다. 마직물의 주관적 태 평가를 위해 26문항의 형용사쌍으로 구성된 9점의 의미미분척도를 개발하였으며 이 척도를 사용해 주관적 평가를 실시하였다. 또 객관적 평가를 위해 KES-FB 시스템을 통해 역학적 특성치를 구하였다. 주관적 평가를 실시한 결과 마직물의 태에 영향을 미치는 7개의 요인이 추출되었다. 이 요인들은 표면성질, 신축성/드레이프성, 중량감, 강연성, 회복성, 수분특성, 밀도감이었으며, 요인들로 설명되는 누적분산값은 67.18%였다.주관적 평가의 결과와 객관적 평가 결과를 이용해 마직물의 태를 평가하는 산출식을 제시하였다. 태 평가치의 경우 16가지 특성치를 모두 넣는 방법과 stepwise 방법, 또 Kawabatark 사용한 순차적 군 회귀법의 세가지 방법의 회귀식 중 16가지 특성치를 모두 넣는 방법의 결정계수가 가장 높았다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.5
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• pp.881-891
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• 2021

This study proposes a simple drape measurement method for the 3D virtualization of garments. The proposed method uses angles or disks of different diameters to evaluate the drape properties easily. We divided 710 fabrics into ten groups based on the drape coefficient, of which 49.6% had drape coefficients of 30 or less. The drape properties were measured to classify the groups into smaller clusters using the angle formed when the center of the fabric was fixed. Accordingly, three clusters were formed for 60° and 100° angles. A method was devised using ten disks of different diameters to classify the remaining two clusters, except the cluster containing only the D10 group (D1-D5 and D5-D9). Three criteria-grade match, a sum of deviation, and standardization of deviation-were used for the classifications. The discriminative ability between groups was high for D1-D5 with disks with 24.0 and 25.5 cm diameters. Furthermore, a disk with a diameter of 16.5 cm was effective for D5-D9. The three-dimensional drape shapes were unique for the ten groups, which can be utilized as fundamental data for 3D virtualization.