• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 2009.05a
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• pp.235-238
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• 2009

최근 생활수준의 향상으로 의복의 기능성이 중시되면서, 건강, 감성, 쾌적 등에 대한 욕구를 충족시킬 수 있는 건강 소재 개발에 대한 연구와 니트에 관한 선호도 및 감성연구는 활발히 진행되고 있다. 그러나 현재까지 건강 니트 소재의 감각 및 감성이미지에 관한 연구는 부족한 실정이다. 본 연구는 키토산 섬유와 서스 섬유의 니트 소재를 편성한 다음 최종 소비자의 감각과 감성이미지에 미치는 영향을 연구하여 실제 건강 니트 소재를 기획하는데 필요한 정보를 제시하고자 한다. 본 연구에서 키토산 섬유와 서스 섬유를 회색계열로 변화를 주어 10 게이지의 컴퓨터 자동 횡편기로 5 종의 평편 시료를 편성하였고 20 대 남녀 대학생 69 명을 대상으로 5 종의 시료($20\;cm{\times}15\;cm$)를 랜덤한 순서로 제시하여 눈으로 시료를 보고 직접 만지면서 평가하도록 하였으며, 감각 18 개와 감성 22 개, 선호도 3 개의 총 43 개 형용사로 이루어진 7 점 척도를 사용하였다. 건강 니트 소재의 감각 및 감성 이미지를 요인 분석한 결과, 감각요인은 '부피감', '요철감', '신축감', '현시감', 변형감'의 5 가지 요인, 감성요인은 '온유감', '안정감', '고급감', '활동감'의 4 가지 요인으로 분류되었다. 색 속성 중 명도 수준별 감각요인 및 감성요인 중 '요철감'과 '안정감'의 매우 유의한 차이가 나타났다. 고명도, 저명도 수준은 울퉁불퉁하고 오톨도톨하지만 안정적이고 깨끗한 이미지로 느끼는 것으로 나타났고 중간 명도수준은 '요철감'과 '안정감'이 감소되었다. 차콜색의 키토산 100%와 연회씩의 서스 100%의 경우 울퉁불퉁하고 오톨도톨하지만 안정적이고 깨끗한 이미지로 느끼는 것으로 나타났고, 차콜색 키토산섬유와 연회색 서스섬유를 혼방하여 편성한 경우 '요철감'과 '안정감'이 감소되었다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.12
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• pp.1981-1989
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• 2008

Different people buy the same or similar products for different reasons. Benefit segmentation attempts to understand these differences by grouping together people who assign a similar level of importance to the same attributes. We focused on identifying market segments for knit fabrics by comparing the relative attribute preference for knit fabrics according to segmented clusters, and testing to establish if there were significant differences between the preferences of clusters. Three consumer segments emerged, and there were three clusters with different ideal knit profiles: a preferred wool group, a preferred acrylic group, and a preferred long stitch length group. The preferred wool group and the preferred acrylic group rated the mixture ratio as the main attribute that determined their preference, followed by the stitch length. The preferred long stitch length group considered stitch length as being the most important attribute, followed by the mixture ratio. The difference in the preferences for the mixture ratio and stitch length of knit fabrics was the highest between the three clusters, The preferred wool group preferred a knit fabric that has a greater wool mixture ratio and a short stitch length, and the preferred acrylic group and long stitch length group preferred a knit fabric that had a higher acrylic mixture ratio and a short stitch length.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2009.11a
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• pp.155-156
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• 2009

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.6 s.154
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• pp.870-879
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• 2006

In this study, the difference in the mechanical properties of silver and cotton weft knitted fabrics was studied. Six silver fabrics for the summer ladies' knit outwear were knitted varying knit structure and fabric density. Two commercial cotton knitted fabrics were selected to compare the properties. subjective sensation of hand of the fabrics was also studied. Mechanical properties of the fabric samples were measured by KES-FB system. From these, primary hand values(HV) were evaluated by the conversion equation (KW-403-KTU) and the total hand value(THV) was carried out according to the KW-304 Summer. The result of the research show that silver weft knitted fabrics had lower LT, RT, G, 2HG and higher EM, W, LC, WC, RC than cotton weft knitted fabrics. The use of silver yam contributed to increase in surface roughness of knitted fabrics. As the silver knitted fabrics became thicker compressional energy increased. The use of silver yarns contributed to much better fabric handle compared with the use of cotton yam only. It appeared that coefficient of friction of tuck stitch was larger than that of plain and interlock stitch. KOSHI and FUKURAMI values of the tuck samples were significantly higher than those values of the plain and interlock samples, while SHARI values were low in general. The total hand value of tuck stitch was higher than those of interlock and plain stitch.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2012.03a
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• pp.93-93
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• 2012

섬유산업은 그 제조 스트림이 높은 오염 부하와 에너지 다소비를 특징으로 하여 환경규제에 따라 기존 시장의 위축 가능성이 상존하고 있다. 특히 섬유산업의 주요 스트림 중의 하나인 염색가공 공정은 섬유에서 불순물을 제거하고 심미한 색상과 사용 목적에 적합한 성능을 부여하는 단계로 섬유제조 공정에서 가장 높은 부가가치를 부여하는 단계이나 고온의 물과 다양한 화공약품을 많이 사용하고 그 처리온도가 비교적 높아($100^{\circ}C$ 이상) 대표적인 폐수 발생 공정이자 에너지 다소비 공정이다. 섬유의 염색 방법 중 반연속방법인 CPB(Cold Pad Batch)염색은 반응성 염료와 알칼리의 혼합액으로 구성된 염액에 원단을 패딩한 후 상온에서 수 시간 배칭하고 수세 및 후처리하여 염색하는 방법으로 작업공정관리, 설비관리가 간편하고 에너지소비량 절감, 높은 생산성의 장점이 있다. CPB염색법은 주로 직물에 적용되어 보편화 되었으며, 작업공정 중 장력의 영향을 많이 받는 니트 소재에 적용되는 사례는 드물다. 직물류의 CPB 염색가공법은 대구 경북을 중심으로 연구진행이 활발히 이루어지고 있어 국내 100대 정도의 CPB 관련 장비가 직물제품에 한정되어 가동되고 있는 반면, 니트 CPB 관련 염색 가공 업체는 1곳에 불과한 실정이나 니트류에 대한 지속적인 수요 증가를 고려하면 니트 소재에 대한 CPB염색 적용은 시의적절한 필수요소라고 판단된다. 니트 소재에 대한 CPB염색가공 적용 시 나타나는 문제점은 작업원단의 변부 말림현상 발생, 전폭 상태에서의 색상차이인 listing현상, 원단의 첫도입부분과 끝부분의 색상차이인 tailing현상이며, 반복되는 작업 시 염색재현성을 확보하는 것으로 나타난다. 본 연구에서는 CPB염색 시 CPB Head 장치의 Padding 방식 즉, trough와 Nip type에 따른 염색 시 알칼리와 염료 투입에 따른 염색 재현성(Build up, Ending, 알칼리 안정성)을 비교해 보았으며, 이에 따른 염색제품의 물성 및 견뢰도를 확인하여 보다 효율적인 방식을 선별하였다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.651-658
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• 2008

Conjoint analysis estimates how much each of the attributes is valued on the basis of the choices consumers make among product concepts that are varied in systematic ways. The purposes of this research were to evaluate the relative importance of each fabric constituent characteristic for the consumer's utility or preference, to compare with the relative importance between the trained and the untrained panelists, and to identify the combinations of the constituent characteristic of knit fabric which offer consumers greater utility. Conjoint analysis was conducted using data taken from 54 trained and 54 untrained panelists, who rated preference for 12 different knit fabrics. The stitch length had a greater effect on knit fabric preference than the mixture ratio of fiber. There was no difference on effect of knit constituent characteristics for preference between the trained and the untrained panelists. Total, trained and untrained group preferred a knit fabric that had a higher acrylic mixture ratio and a short stitch length.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.10
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• pp.1611-1620
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• 2010

This research compares the difference of each preference segments' subjective hands and sensibilities in order to analyze the correlations among preference, subjective hands, and sensibilities. Preference segments were classified into wool, acrylic, and long stitch length-preferred clusters in previous research. To evaluate the subjective hands and sensibilities of knit fabrics, the 20's and 30's women rated twelve knit fabrics by touching, using a questionnaire with a seven-point semantic differential scale. These twelve knit fabrics were differentiated by controlling the mixture ratio and stitch length using a computer-controlled automatic flat knit machine. The difference of each preference segments' subjective hands and sensibilities was determined using the conjoint analysis. The clusters perceived the subjective hands and sensibilities differently according to preferred constituent characteristics. There was no correlation between surface unevenness and preference in wool-preferred cluster, while there were negative correlations in other clusters. The acrylic-preferred cluster had a preference in coolness compared to other clusters; in addition, the long stitch-preferred cluster preferred flexibility/bulkiness and extensibility than the others. All clusters preferred modem and natural sensibilities that were caused by different constituent characteristics of knit fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.8 s.145
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• pp.1158-1167
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to examine the effect of structural properties of plain knit fabrics on the subjective textures and sensibilities of consumers. We investigated the relationship of subjective textures and sensibilities according to fiber contents of wool/rayon and stitch loop length. We made 20 plain knit fabrics, as specimens, with a combination of 5 kinds of fiber contents and 4 kinds of stitch loop length. A factor analysis showed that subjective textures are classified into 3 categories with $R^2=70.32\%$: 'surface-rough', 'drapable', 'bulky' and 'elastic' and subjective sensibilities into 3 categories with $R^2=68.12\%$: 'stable/neat', 'feminine/elegant' and 'natural/comfortable'. The fiber contents of wool/rayon had a positive and linear relation with 'surface-rough', but had a relatively non-linear one with 'bulky' and 'elastic' categories of textures, and 'feminine/elegant' of sensibilities. The stitch loop length had a linear influence on 'drapable' and 'stable/neat', but had a non-linear influence on other subjective textures and sensibilities.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.6
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• pp.1050-1059
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• 2017

Drying processes often cause knitted fabrics to shrink. This study obtains proper drying conditions for in the dryer use that can minimize knitted fabric shrinkage by investigating changes in shrinkage according to drying conditions. The experiment samples were all machine washable plain, mesh, and lacoste knitted fabrics made of 100% cotton. Samples were first washed in a washing machine on a normal cycle. They were then layered on a flat surface in an artificial climate chamber and dried for 24 hours at $20^{\circ}C$ and $40^{\circ}C$, respectively. Shrinkage was measured for 180 minutes at 30 minute intervals after washing. The comparison results of the shrinkage in the washing and drying process indicate that 80.0% and 23.0% shrinkage of plain knitted and lacoste knitted fabrics occurred during the washing process. As the samples dried, the shrinkage of the plain and lacoste knitted fabrics then rapidly increased after approximately 30.0% moisture content. The highest air drying shrinkage occurred over one cycle with insignificant changes in shrinkage after repeated treatments.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.17-25
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• 2006

We performed the objective sensibility evaluation on knitted fabrics by the following procedures: setting acrylic fabrics with knitted fabrics as basis, knitted five kinds of blended spun yarns and four kinds of twisted filament yams made by different twisting methods(the amount and direction of twist) then, measuring mechanical properties in the use Kawabata Evaluation System, obtaining hand values and total hand values. The results are as follows: First, A(F)/W acrylic/wool spun knits obtain high scores in bending, compressing, shear properties, MMD, and thickness among five kinds of acrylic-blended knit fabrics. A(S)/W acrylic/wool blended knit represented prominent values at compressing properties and thickness and so wool-blended yams demonstrated superior characters comparing other blended yarns. To contrast, acrylic/rayon blended knits showed low scores in bending properties, shear properties and thickness, so that it affects to total hand values. On the one hand, among the four kinds of acrylic filament knitted fabrics, they do not exhibit any notable dynamic differences such as tensile properties of knitted fabrics by the twist number and direction of filament yarns, bending, shear, compressing properties, weight and thickness except surface properties. Second, fabrics showed the most high score at FUKURAMI (fullness and softness) among the hand values. A(S)/W acrylic/wool blended knits obtaining the lowest values at SAHRI (crispness) outrank at total hand values, so that it was the predominant knitted fabric in objective sensibility evaluation. In total hand values, five kinds of acrylic blended knits got a higher score than four kinds of acrylic filament knits, and the amount and direction of twist did not influence on total hand values among the four kinds of acrylic filaments.