Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.13
no.2
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pp.103-119
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2011
This study set out to analyze the solid shapes of knit flared skirts, which are best represented in a 3-dimensional shape for all knit skirts, according to the seamed and seamless production method and to estimate the silhouettes of knit flared skirts based on the results. It also aimed to help with the introduction and spread of seamless weaving by revising and supplementing potential problems and provide findings that would be put to active use as basic data, thus contributing to the development of original knitwear and offering fundamental materials for the development of the knitting industry. A number of experimental knit flared skirts were made according to skirt angle ($90^{\circ}$ and $180^{\circ}$), gauge (7G, 12G, and 15G), and grain (bias, wale, and radial), including 12 kinds of seamed knit flared skirts and 6 kinds of seamless knit flared skirts. Using a three-dimensional shape measurement system, the investigator measured the cross-sectional shapes of their hemlines. The SPSS 12 Version program was used for statistical processing, and descriptive statistics such as mean and standard deviation were used to compare the seamed and seamless knit flared skirts in the measurements (measurement items) of their solid shapes according to the width, gauges, and grain directions. The central grain direction of seamless knit flared skirts was in a radial form and even hemlines, thus presenting a beautiful appearance and solid shape. The 3-dimensional shapes show that seamless knit flared skirts are superior to seamed ones. The research findings are expected to open a door for Korea's knitting industry to quickly respond to small quantity batch production and additional orders.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.13
no.2
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pp.163-173
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2011
The objective of this study is to examine the current status of manufacturing formal knit jackets for middle-aged women. Fifteen manufacturers specializing in formal knitwear brands were chosen as the study subjects, and interviews and questionnaires were used with patterners and designers. The questionnaire was composed of 27 items and began with general questions, such as how the jackets were manufactured. Specific questions, such as materials and sewing method, were also considered further on. The results are as follows: First, as for the structure of the knit jacket manufacturer, seven out of fifteen manufacturers directly manufactured knit jackets in their own factory, while the manufacturing was comprised of 20% woven jackets and 80% knit jackets for all manufactures. Second, as for the type of yarn mostly used in knitting the fabric for the jackets, satin yarn and wool were used mostly for F/W with Plain and Half Milano rib stitches as the type of knit with a gauge of 12G and 7G. Third, as for the margin between the product size of the target brand and the size of the body at the time of designing a knit jacket pattern, the investigation of the actual state of manufacturing showed that the margin at the bust was B+4.8cm, the waist was W+6.9cm, and the hip girth was H+5cm. Therefore, the bust and hip girth of the knit jackets were designed to be smaller than those of the bust and hip girth lines of non-flexible woven jackets. On the contrary, the waist measurement of non-flexible woven jacket was designed to be smaller than the knit jacket. It was found that the side line of the knit jacket was expressed with greater give as compared to that of the non-flexible woven jacket.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.12
no.2
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pp.131-138
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2010
The purposes of this study are for current manufacturing status of the formal knit slacks for the middle aged women. As for the methodology, five manufacturers specializing in formal knitwear brands were subjected to the study, to examine the current manufacturing status of the knit slacks for the middle aged women, by conducting interviews and questionnaire with patterner and designer. The questionnaire items are 20 ones including general questions on manufacturing of the knit slacks, questions on materials used in manufacturing, and on sewing. The results are as followings : First, as for the manufacturing structure of the knit slacks manufacturer, all manufacturers directly manufactured knit slacks in their own factory, and the manufacturing was comprised of 10% in woven slacks and 90% in knit slacks. Second, as for the type of yarn mostly used in fabric knitting for the knit slacks, wool was used mostly for F/W, and acrylic or Saint yarn for S/S. As for the types of knit, Milano rib stitch and Half Milano rib stitch were used for wool and acrylic knitting, and plain stitch was used for Saint yarn. As for the gauge, 12G and 14G were used, whereas 7G, 12G was used for Saint yarn. Repair requests of the knit slacks were mostly on the length of the pants, such as shortening hip circumference and crotch length, or widening waist and hip area. The study shows that the size of knit slacks did not fit the body type of customers.
This study conducted a survey to find out atopic dermatitis patients' required performance and preference in design factors to develop spring/summer(S/S) knitwears preferred by atopic patients. On the platform of achieved information from statistical analysis, S/S knitwear samples for atopic patients were designed and constructed with cotton/Seacell(R) blended yarn, And subjective wearing sensation were evaluated comparing the samples and the commercial products made with cotton/chitosan blended yarn, trying to help producing more comfortable S/S knitwears for atopic patients. SPSS 12.0 program was used for frequency analysis, Chi-square analysis, ANOVA, and Duncan test. The result was as follows; For comfort of S/S knitwears, atopic patients most considered skin care property. Atopic patients preferred simple and basic knitwear in light color with thin and soft fabric such as plain knit. The preferred style was that 'appropriately fit with suitable ease'. They also preferred 'closed front'; 'boat neckline' and 'V neckline'; 'raglan sleeve' and 'set-in sleeve'. For hem trim, they preferred 'rib' structure. Male preferred simple and plain style with 'round collar' and 'tubular or rib trim", while female preferred sophisticated and characteristic style with 'set-in sleeve' with 'rib trim'. Under the circumstances with insufficient functional knitwears developed, this study tried to develop comfort S/S knitwears for atopic dermatitis patients and the developed knitwears showed as good as or better performance in wearing feeling, fitting, and appearance than the previously developed functional goods.
Knitwear has been used as an active and functional clothing item due to its flexible and soft nature. Diverse design expressions have made knitwear into an essential fashion item for people today, who are constantly seeking for ways to display their individualism. The purpose of this study is to analyze the actual wearing conditions, and the preferred designs of knitwear for female college students in order to provide a baseline data, which can be used to develop knitwear designs for the subjects of the study. Survey by questionnaire of 135 female college students in 3 universities in Seoul were analysed. The results of the study are as follows: First, the most owned knitwear were sweaters and cardigans. Knitwear was viewed as soft and warm, as well as versatile. It was not restricted to certain sizes, and was comfortable to wear for different activities. Seound, the most preferred items were sweaters and cardigans. The most preferred styles were round neckline sweaters and open V-neckline cardigans. Third, the most preferred designs were plain designs with achromatic colors and wool-blended fabrics. The most preferred images were simple images. The most preferred fit was loose enough for little bit of room inside. Fourth, appropriateness and design of the knitwear were assessed during the purchasing stage. the most preferred method of purchase was purchasing via online stores after researching the knitwear through various channels, such as store visits and the Internet. The preferred price of knitwear was below 100,000 KRW. Fifth, the most common complaints were as follows: changes in the shape and quality of the knitwear after a wash, appearance of nap, and loose threads. In short, it is necessary for female college students to develop high quality knitwear with designs that can display individuality, while being simple.
The destruction of hazardous chemicals such as chlorinated organic compounds(COCs) and nitroaromatic compounds(NACs) by zero-valent iron powder is one of the latest innovative technologies. In this paper. the rapid dechlorination of chlorinated compounds as well as transformation of nitro functional group to amine functional group in the nitroaromatic compounds using synthesized zero-valent iron powder with nanoscale were studied in anaerobic batch system. Nanoscale iron, characterized by high surface area to mass ratios(31.4$\textrm{m}^2$/g) and high reactivity, could quickly reacts with compounds such as TCE, chloroform, nitrobenzene, nitrotoluene, dinitrobenzene and dinitrotoluene, at concentration of 10mg/L in aqueous solution at room temperature and pressure. In this study, the TCE was dechlorinated to ethane and chloroform to methane and nitro groups in NACs were transformed to amino groups in less than 30min. These results indicated that this chemical method using nanoscale iron powder has the high potential for the remediation of soils and groundwater contaminated with hazardous toxic chemicals including chlorinated organic compounds and nitro aromatic compounds.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.8
no.3
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pp.17-25
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2006
We performed the objective sensibility evaluation on knitted fabrics by the following procedures: setting acrylic fabrics with knitted fabrics as basis, knitted five kinds of blended spun yarns and four kinds of twisted filament yams made by different twisting methods(the amount and direction of twist) then, measuring mechanical properties in the use Kawabata Evaluation System, obtaining hand values and total hand values. The results are as follows: First, A(F)/W acrylic/wool spun knits obtain high scores in bending, compressing, shear properties, MMD, and thickness among five kinds of acrylic-blended knit fabrics. A(S)/W acrylic/wool blended knit represented prominent values at compressing properties and thickness and so wool-blended yams demonstrated superior characters comparing other blended yarns. To contrast, acrylic/rayon blended knits showed low scores in bending properties, shear properties and thickness, so that it affects to total hand values. On the one hand, among the four kinds of acrylic filament knitted fabrics, they do not exhibit any notable dynamic differences such as tensile properties of knitted fabrics by the twist number and direction of filament yarns, bending, shear, compressing properties, weight and thickness except surface properties. Second, fabrics showed the most high score at FUKURAMI (fullness and softness) among the hand values. A(S)/W acrylic/wool blended knits obtaining the lowest values at SAHRI (crispness) outrank at total hand values, so that it was the predominant knitted fabric in objective sensibility evaluation. In total hand values, five kinds of acrylic blended knits got a higher score than four kinds of acrylic filament knits, and the amount and direction of twist did not influence on total hand values among the four kinds of acrylic filaments.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.13
no.4
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pp.51-67
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2011
The purposes of this study were to segment male university students on the basis of benefit sought in clothing, and to investigate knitwear image preference and purchasing behaviors of each segmented market. The research method was a survey and subjects were 249 male university students in Daejeon and Chungnam province. The questionnaire consisted of measurement items for benefit sought in clothing, knitwear image preference, knitwear purchasing behaviors, and subject's demographic attributions. The data were analyzed by Cronbach's ${\alpha}$, factor analysis, cluster analysis, ${\chi}^2$ test, ANOVA and Scheffe test. The results were as follows. First, male university students were segmented into 6 consumer types (practicality pursuit, individuality pursuit, comport pursuit, brand pursuit, social status pursuit, and unconcern type) by benefit sought in clothing. Second, male university students generally preferred dandy image and causal image, however, brand pursuit type more preferred trendy image, and practicality pursuit type more preferred active image than other consumer types. Third, the segmented markets showed many differences on knitwear purchasing behaviors. On clothing selection criteria, practicality pursuit type considered resonable price as important, whereas brand pursuit type considered brand reputation. On fashion information source, individuality pursuit type considered store display and other people's clothing, while unconcern type considered advice from friend and family. On main purchasing place, individuality pursuit type more used speciality store with no brand, whereas brand pursuit type more used department store and brand store than other consumer types. The results of this study supported that benefit sought in clothing can be useful as an effective variable for market segmentation.
Kim, Tae-Gyou;Park, Soon-Jee;Park, Jung-Whan;Suh, Chu-Yeon;Choi, Sin-Ae
Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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v.14
no.2
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pp.277-285
/
2012
This research studied how to develop tight upper sportswear from 3D scan data considering fabric stretch property. Subjects were five Korean men of average figure in their 20's. Scanning was done for ten postures via vitus smart/pro(Techmath LTD). Analyzing from 3D scan data, more than 70% of the upper body surface showed surface change rate under 20%. It was shoulder and under arm side part that showed most noticeable body surface change when moving. A parametric model with convex surface was generated and flattened onto the plane, resulting 2D pattern. The error rate occurring in the process of 3D to 2D conversion was 0.2% for outline and 0.13% for area, respectively. Thirteen kinds of stretchable fabrics in the market were collected for this study. Stretch property was in the range of 16.0~58.2% for wale direction; 23.1~78.4% for course. Based on wear trial test, four fabrics were chosen for making the 1st experimental garment and finally one fabric was chosen for the 2nd one, which was developed applying 4 kinds of crosswise reduction rate on 2D pattern: 0, 5, 10, and 15%. Through wear trial test and garment pressure measurement, experimental garment applied with 10% pattern reduction rate was evaluated as most comfortable and considerable.
This study investigates the wearing trend and purchase facts for adult females in their 20s and 30s along with their fitting satisfaction for woven jackets and circular knitted jackets. A questionnaire survey on consumers investigated satisfaction with jackets according to clothing materials and repair trend after wearing. Subsequently, a preference for circular knitted jackets was shown higher than woven jackets. Females in their 20s preferred woven jackets than those in their 30s; however, the latter preferred circular knitted jackets than the former. For woven jackets, they showed the highest satisfaction with size; however, for circular knitted jackets, they showed the highest satisfaction with fitting. In the question on their satisfaction by jacket part, satisfaction with circular knitted jackets was higher in all items except for bust measurement, bottom edge measurement, elbow circumference, shoulder width, and clothes length. Circular knitted jackets had lower repair rates than woven jackets and woven jackets had significant differences by age in satisfaction with back width. The research results indicate that females in their 20s and 30s who value fit preference and practicality will increasingly wear knit clothes. Therefore, we can address the fitting satisfaction requirement of females in their 20s and 30s by taking the clothing material properties of circular knitted clothes into consideration. In addition, further research is required on jacket patterns in consideration of clothing materials.
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