• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.2
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• pp.59-80
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• 2000

In February 1947, Christian Dior startled the world with his spring collection. He transformed the unflattering square shouldered outline of women's wartime fashion overnight. It was not only fashion that made a pivotal point for opulence and elegance, The style of architecture, furniture, glass, and silverware also made a radical change. The new style emerged after war called " organic modernism'. This study is to define the visual characteristics of fashion, architecture, furniture and craft after World War II and examine the social factors and aesthetics that generated a new style. The common asthetic characteristics are freedom, abstraction of symbolic from, asymmetry, and exaggeration of form. The social factors, values and aesthetics are economic reconstruction and renaissance of design , technical development and new materials, fredom and optimistic view after the holocaust of war, and organic aesthetics and humanism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.5
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• pp.115-134
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• 2009

This study is about Christian Dior's and Martin Margiela's fashion works that create 'New look' which leads the periodic ideology, philosophies, circumstances and the trend at that time. For the systematized interpretation, this study investigates the iconology of E. Panofsky, E. H. Gombrich and N. Goodman. Based on their theories, iconological analysis paradigm is made into four phases: I. Recognition of iconological form, II. Analysis of External Elements, III. Analysis of symbolic meanings and artistic will and IV. Aesthetic enjoyment and communication with a viewer. Christian Dior treats woman as a organic and architectural structure. He falls in love with himself such as narcissus and woman who wears his works. Dior's ego is visualized by woman and his works which are the symbol of narcissism and beauty. Martin Margiela makes form of clothes and at the same time destroys. Margiela deconstructs aura of clothes and tries to make it unfamiliar. Also he changes traditional idea of beauty and creates 'ugliness' which is a notion of dialectic. Margiela transforms elements of clothes which brings variation of thinking and makes it possible to create new look. Christian Dior and Martin Margiela are the creators of new look which visualizes the notion of habitus that is the space of self-exists. Fashion dose not have to be what people wears but it could be an image itself. It means that fashion is a part of ontology and it is a 'New look' which is based on economy, the standard of periodical beauty and ideal aspects. The creation of clothes is a work of embodiment of human being where it constructed or deconstructed.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.135-144
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• 2008

The reason that we are familiar with fashion from the 1950s is because of the work such as New Look done by a french fashion designer, Christian Dior who had taken on an almost mythical significance by his name. Moreover, in the sense of popularity, the appearance of Marilyn Monroe and Audrey Hepburn, two typical Hollywood actresses who each has directly-opposed image, is the symbol of youthful America of the 1950s and represents the remarkable start of the American fashion. Still, these days designers and mass medias recall the fashion from the 50s remaking and parodying it to suit public's taste. Being due to the World War II, Europe suffered not only the loss of its national tradition and reputation but also got a fatal blow politically and economically. On the other hand, the United States of America occupied a primary position in the world and outstandingly became the most powerful country. The American fashion of the 1950s represents youth and newness and rejects outdated and outmoded style. In this period, appears the indication which announces previously the youth culture. Poodle skirt is the fashion item that acquired popularity among young american women and girls in the late 1950s. In effect, it is the fashion as American as apple pie. A costly A-line skirt had been transformed into a cheap felt skirt. Instead of a real poodle dog which was carried by French women like an accessory, they embroidered a poodle dog on the lower edge of their skirt. As deriding the snobbish gait, they swayed themselves frantically to the rhythm of Rock n' Roll which swept those days. This was an attitude of young Americans against the existing trend of Europe. Poodle skirt showed the free spirit and intention of young people unbound to custom and established vogue. In addition, in the aspect of comprising the American spirit of independent, pioneer, and subjective American people, it goes beyond the bounds of common concept of fad. Poodle skirt is an unique symbol of the 1950s' American fashion which prognosticates the advent of the United States and the success in modern fashion world which was changing after 1950s.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.2
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• pp.68-87
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• 2017

The New Look, which Christian Dior presented in 1947, has been a source of inspiration for contemporary fashion designers, as well as designers for the House of Dior, and has a great influence on them. The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze the aesthetic characteristics of Christian Dior's New Look and the New Look that Christian Dior House designers reinterpreted. The subject and the scope of this study were limited to Christian Dior and the New Look designed by Gianfranco $Ferr\acute{e}$, John Galliano, and Raf Simons who are regarded as worthy successors. The research method was a literature review on previous studies on Christian Dior and related literatures to examine the history of the House of Dior and the aesthetic characteristics of the New Look presented by Christian Dior. Then, an empirical study was conducted through the analysis of collection photographs from 1989 to 2016 that were gathered from the Mode et Mode and Hi Fashion, and websites (British Vogue, Firstview). The results of the study were as follows. First, the aesthetic characteristics of Christian Dior's New Look in 1947 used femininity to express an elegant and beautiful woman, structural property to render the contours of a woman's body, and innovation that changed the formal and gloomy social atmosphere in the post-war years. Second, the aesthetic characteristics of the New Look by Christian Dior were compared with those of the New Look made by designers for the House of Dior. The elegant femininity of Dior can be seen as gorgeous femininity, and sensual femininity, minimalistic femininity, structurality is represented by the spatial structurality of Dior and $Ferr\acute{e}$, the organic structure of Galliano, and the orthodox structure of Simons. Moreover, Dior's retro innovativeness appeared to be $Ferr\acute{e}^{\prime}s$ androgyny innovation, Galliano's deconstructive innovation, and Simons' romantic futuristic innovation.