• 복식문화연구
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.209-224
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• 2014

This study aims to compare the ease of shirt patterns in the men's wear market that have been constantly developing, and to analyze the fitness and appearance through the 3D virtual try-on system. The study selected three industrial patterns and two educational materials of classic-fit and slim-fit shirts for a total of ten items. The experiments involved virtual wearing, a stress contact point perspective map, and appearance evaluations. First, the ease differed significantly in the chest, waist, and sleeve cap height according to the patterns. Second, based on the stress, contact point, and transparency, there was ease in the order of Nam, D-brand, J-brand, Park, and S-brand in the classic-fit shirts while the order of D-brand, Nam, J-brand, Park, and S-brand resulted in the slim-fit shirts. Third, in the appearance evaluation, higher points resulted in the order of J-brand, Park, S-brand, D-brand, and Nam in both classic-fit and slim-fit. The results showed that proper ease differs greatly by shirt-fit and target age. Also, the shirts with more ease tended to be evaluated less favorably in the appearance evaluation. Based on the results, the study suggests that the proper ease in chest circumference is 18cm for the classic-fit shirts and 6 cm for the slim-fit shirts.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권2호
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• pp.294-306
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is a men's dress shirt pattern by somatotype for mass customization system that is rising to the surface as a new production system. Subjects were 65 men aged from 25 to 44 for making research pattern and 9 men for wearing test. The dress shirt went through the secondary wearing test and sensory evaluation to verify the propriety of the research pattern. The results were as follows: For making research dress shirts pattern used the body parts size that were height, the circumference of the neck, the chest circumference, the length between biacromion, the arms length, and the waist circumference. The waist back length, the waist to hip length and the pattern length of were set by the calculation formula based on the height. The ease of 16cm for the chest circumference and A type had the ease of 10cm for the waist circumference, Y type had the ease of 8cm and B type had 12cm. Through the wearing test, the research pattern showed significant difference from the comparative patterns so additional two items of the length between biacromion and waist circumference were added to the items used in the comparative patterns through which satisfactory results were obtained. In the secondary wearing test for the dress shirt, all the items, except for the front centerline, were evaluated excellent. As a result of evaluating by the figure type, the normal type was evaluated best in all the items.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.1-15
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to analyze the image perception of dress shirts according to perceiver's residency and shirts style, and to investigate the shirts preference according to style of dress shirts, and to find out the men's aesthetics consciousness for shirts, and to analyze between the image perception and the usage of mass-media, for developing the possibility & strategy of the dress shirts market in men's wear market for the apparel marketers and manufactures. For this study, the data obtained from 321 respondents were analyzed by descriptive statistics, Pearson's simple correlation, ANOVA. The results from the study were as follow ; The 6 stimuli for image perception rated on 5 point Likert-type scales in the 12 features were evaluated by perceivers. By the best 3 features abstracted, shirts style concepts were decided such as, Basic style by the best 3 features of the first stimulus, and Soft style by the best 3 features of the second stimulus, and Sophisticate style by the best 3 features of the third stimulus, and Modern casual style by the best 3 features of the fourth stimulus, and Modern mannish style by the best 3 features of the fifth stimulus, and Trendy style by the best 3 features of the sixth stimulus. The modern casual style was estimated highly by respondents in Daejon. The respondents in Seoul prfered the basic style to other style. There were significant differences in evaluating between preferences of shirts style and pattern. Of the 82 respondents(26.8%) with the preference of bold london stripe, the 52 respondents estimated Modern casual style in bold london stripe. The fashion consciousness of the respondents in Seoul was estimated higher than in Daejon. But, the respondents in Daejon in the consciousness for the coordination knit cardigan and V zone was estimated higher than in Seoul. Also, the 31 respondents with the preference of Sophisticate style were the highest in fashion consciousness. The respondents estimated that the first important thing in buying dress shirts is 'Design(41.4%). and next is quality(17.8%). Results revealed that Daks ranked best brand (13.7%), and Renoma ranked best two brand (6,5%). And, the 35.5% respondents estimated that the first important information which influenced on buying dress shirts was the store display, next was internet(15.9%). Finally, I propose that the best strategy for men with low fashion consciousness is to upgrade salesmen' coordination technic and fabric knowledge, and store management with story attracting customers.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권1호
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• pp.97-109
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• 2014

This study developed a functional dress shirt for adult males that reflected the body surface variation of a human body section by motion. This study conducted a 3D body scan for 8 subjects in their 40's based on the Size Korea 2010 database. Data recorded the proper posture change value and body surface change value to develop functional dress shirts for adult males. We scanned the subjects with a 3D body scanner for five primarily male wearing dress shirts and operating postures, right standing, arms raised to $90^{\circ}$ horizontal forward position, arms raised $90^{\circ}$ to the horizontal position side, lift up the arm $180^{\circ}$, and arm forward $90^{\circ}$ in a bent posture. We analyzed the 3D scan data from those motions to examine change of length using 3D software Rapidform XOS. The results indicated that the body surface sections with contraction were the front and rear shoulder area, armpit and central length as well the width of arms at more than 10%. The increased body section included the body and armpit back length; in addition, the rear arm vibration girth and under arm girth were more than 10%. In order to reflect the size variation of for each motion, the ease amount of the front and rear shoulder length and width needs to be reduced 20% because it affects the shoulder length during the right standing. The results suggest that the ease amount of the shoulder length should be minimal. The ease amount of the back size needs to be 0.5-2cm bigger and set 0.5-1.5cm longer than the dress shirt length side drooping to compensate for the side length shortage of each motion. The sleeve length needs to be 0-0.5cm shorter, and ease amount of the girth of sleeve bottom needs to be reduced 0-0.7cm due to the size variation of arms. However, the girth of the rear arms is suggested to be 0-0.6cm longer in the ease amount to the rear arm girth as the extension is more than 10% over the width and length of each motion.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권4호
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• pp.373-379
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• 2007

The purpose of this research was to investigate the effects of used color and tone on harmony perception by applying contrast coloration of shirt and necktie. This experiment designed by shirt color(red, blue, purple, green), tie color(green or blue tie with red shirt, yellow or red tie with blue shirt, yellow or green tie with purple shirt, purple or red tie with green shirt), shirt tone(vivid, light, dull, dark), tie tone(vivid, light, dull, dark), and perceiver gender(a male, a female). The experimental materials developed for this study were a set of stimulus and response scales, we harmonized those colors of shirts and neckties contrast, then made shirt and necktie tone differently. The subjects of this research were 640 male and 640 female college students. The data was analyzed by using SPS program. Shirt color, tie color, shirt tone, tie tone, perceiver gender influenced on harmony perception independently. Shirt color and tie color, shirt color and shirt tone, shirt color and perceiver gender, tie color and tie tone, tie color and perceiver gender, shirt tone and tie tone influenced on the harmony perception by interaction.

• 한국감성과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국감성과학회 1999년도 추계학술대회 논문집
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• pp.157-161
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• 1999

본 연구에서 직물의 열, 수분 전달특성과 KES-FB의 역학적 특성치, 직물표면의 fractal dimension을 측정하여 주관적 의복 착용 쾌적감을 예측하고자 하였다. 실험의복에 사용된 직물은 면 100% 평직물, 면/PET 혼방직물, 피치가공된 면/PET 혼방직물, PET 100% 평직물, 알칼리 감량가공된 PET 100% 크레이프 직물이었으며, 실험의복의 형태는 긴 소매 셔츠로 하였다. 착용실험은 온도 29$\pm$0.5$^{\circ}C$, 상대습도 75$\pm$2%RH, 기류 0.15m/s를 유지하는 항온항습실에서 실시하였고 36명의 여성 피험자(20-23세)들이 참여하였다. 의복 착용감의 하위 구성차원을 파악하기 위해 실험결과를 요인분석한 결과 5 개의 요인으로 추출되었다. 제 1 요인은 체온상승, 수분특성과 관련이 있는 온열.발한감이었으며, 제 2 요인은 무게ㆍ두께감, 제 3 요인은 회복특성감, 제 4 요인은 표면접촉감, 제 5 요인은 온냉감으로 구성되었다. 직물의 표면특성을 정량화하는 방법으로 도입한 fractal dimension 의 분석값들과 종래의 가장 보편적으로 이용되어 온 KES_FB 의 표면 특성치들이 주관적 착용쾌적감 예측에 얼마나 기여하는지 비교해 본 결과, 표면접촉감은 fractal dimension, 접촉점들의 총면적, 접촉점들의 평균 axis ratio, MMD, SMD와 높은 상관을 나타내었다. 또한 종합적 착용쾌적감에 대해서는 SMD 를 제외한 척도들이 유의한 상관을 보였으며, 그 중에서도 fractal dimension 과 접촉점들의 총면적은 0.8 이상의 높은 상관을 나타내었다. 착용쾌적감을 예측하기 위한 회귀분석결과에서는 fractal dimension 만으로 쾌적감의 74%가 설명되었으며 공기 투과도를 첨가하면 두 변수로 $R^2$=.792가 되었다. 설명되는 누적분산값은 67.18%였다.주관적 평가의 결과와 객관적 평가 결과를 이용해 마직물의 태를 평가하는 산출식을 제시하였다. 태 평가치의 경우 16가지 특성치를 모두 넣는 방법과 stepwise 방법, 또 Kawabatark 사용한 순차적 군 회귀법의 세가지 방법의 회귀식 중 16가지 특성치를 모두 넣는 방법의 결정계수가 가장 높았다.tosterone농도는 107.7$\pm$12.0 pmol／l이었고, 남성의 타액내 농도는 274.2$\pm$22.1 pmol／l이었다. 이상의 결과로 보아 본 연구에서 정립된 EIA 방법은 RIA를 대신하여 소규모의 실험실에서도 활용할 수 있을 것으로 사려된다.또한 상실기 이후 배아에서 합성되며, 발생시기에 따라 그 영향이 다르고 팽창과 부화에 관여하는 것으로 사료된다. 더욱이, 조선의 ${\ulcorner}$구성교육${\lrcorner}$이 조선총독부의 관리하에서 실행되었다는 것을, 당시의 사범학교를 중심으로 한 교육조직을 기술한 문헌에 의해 규명시켰다.nd of letter design which represents -natural objects and was popular at the time of Yukjo Dynasty, and there are some documents of that period left both in Japan and Korea. "Hyojedo" in Korea is supposed to have been influenced by the letter design. Asite- is also considered to have been "Japanese Letter Jobcheso." Therefore, the purpose of this study is to look into the origin of the letter designs in t

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.120-134
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• 2007

The usage of basic bodice blocks at men's apparel companies is investigated and the domestic and international men's upper bodice blocks are compared to find directions of research on development of bodice basic blocks. The following conclusions are found in this study. 1. The survey shows that basic bodice blocks are not used at men's apparel companies although all the respondents have good knowledge on bodice basic blocks. They responded that basic bodice blocks for representative body figures of each age category or of each country would help comparative studies on domestic and international basic bodice blocks and development of exporting apparel products. Also, they expected the utilization of men's basic bodice blocks both as education materials and in studies of design, of body figures, and of basic blocks for industry. 2. The comparative study on men's bodice blocks shows that waist circumference, hip circumference, neck circumference, height, and shoulder length, in addition to the minimal essential size items such as chest circumference and center back length, are used in most basic bodice blocks. The size formulae of each basic block are compared to find how the sizes are determined. For center back length, either measured back length or a certain proportion of height is used. For front and back interscyes, chest circumference is used in most basic bodice blocks. Either measured size, or a certain proportion of height or chest circumference is used for back height. The averaged ease allowances of basic bodice blocks are 3.2 cm for chest circumference, 10.8 cm for waist circumference, 1.2 cm for front interscye, 0.1 cm for back interscye, 0.2cm for shoulder length, and 0 cm for center back length. However, body blocks for different types of clothes have different ease allowances. Shirt basic blocks have ease allowances of 6.1 cm for chest circumference, 13.7 cm for waist circumference, 1.4 cm for front interscye, 0.6 cm for back interscye, 1.2 cm for shoulder length, and 1.8 cm for center back length. On the other hand, jacket basic blocks have ease allowances of 8.8 cm for chest circumference, 16 cm for waist circumference, 1.1 cm for front interscye, 1.4 cm for back interscye, 1.1 cm for shoulder length, and 0.8 cm for center back length.

• 한국지역사회생활과학회지
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.1-11
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• 2002

This study was conducted to estimate the amounts of the electromagnetic wave penetrating from a cellular phone in a pocket of dress shirt, as well as to test how different the penetration amounts were under the conditions of wearing. It was also investigated the possibilities that the amounts of the electromagnetic wave penetrating could be decreased by using twofold pocket or electromagnetic wave free fabric. The amounts of the electromagnetic wave penetrating were measured in the following five cases; one-layered pocket with 10 different fabrics as dress shirt, a pocket adding a layer of knitted cotton, two-layered pocket with same fabric as dress shirt, two-layered pocket adding a layer of knitted cotton, and one-layered pocket adding a layer of electromagnetic wave free fabric. Each of these five cases were measured using the front and back sides of a cellular phone facing to the body. The results were as follows; 1) The amounts of the electromagnetic wave penetrating were not significantly different in 10 different fabrics and were all above the caution range (0.02mW/$cm^2$). 2) The amounts of the electromagnetic wave penetrating in cases of the back side of the cellular phone to the body, were more than in cases of the front side. 3) There is a significantly differences in part on adding a knitted under wear to one and two layers of the pocket in the case of penetration amount under the wearing conditions. 4) The amounts of the electromagnetic wave penetrating in cases of adding a layer of electromagnetic wave free fabric, were close to the safe standard value of it. The above results suggested that facing the front side of cellular phone to the body and using extra layering with some electromagnetic wave free fabrics might have some protective effects again to the penetration amounts.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권7호
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• pp.1012-1024
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of color, shirt tone, tie tone, perceiver's gender on impression formation by applying tone on tone coloration of shirt and necktie: coloration of two colors. The experimental materials developed for this study were a set of stimulus and response scales. The stimuli were 32 upper body photographs which were color outputs by CAD system(4D-box program). We unified those colors of shirts and neckties same, then made shirt and necktie tone differently. 27 bi-polar adjectives, each of which was graded into seven in its degree, were used to evaluate the impression. The subjects of this research were 192 male and 192 female college students in Gyeongnam province including Jinju City. The data was analyzed by using SPSS program. Analysis methods were four-way ANOVA. The items of the adjectives were classified into 5 impression dimension. - potency, activity, attractiveness, visibility and tenderness. Color, shirt tone, tie tone, and perceiver gender influenced on 5 impression formation by interaction as well as independently. Blue tie with vivid, light or dull tone had an effect on the formation of potency impression, vivid or light tone of shirt affected activity regardless of color or tie tone. As shirt and tie had different tone, effect on the formation of attractiveness impression, light tone had a negative effect on visibility but positive effect on tenderness. red color were more effective than blue expressed on visibility and tenderness in shirt or tie.

• 복식
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• 제61권3호
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• pp.51-62
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to examine the visual evaluation of image according to the style, hue, value, and chroma of the male clothing and the preference of image. A quasi-experimental method was used for this study. The first factorial design was the $2{\times}3{\times}2{\times}2$ (style of upper clothes ${\times}$ hue ${\times}$ chroma ${\times}$ color of trousers), and the second factorial design was the $2{\times}3{\times}2$ (style of upper clothes ${\times}$ value ${\times}$ color of trousers). The styles of upper clothes were a soutien collar casual jacket and a polo shirt. The subjects were 509 female college students living in Seoul. Factor analysis showed five image categories of men's clothing: initiative, dignity, politeness, activity, and mildness. Yellow was evaluated as having the highest initiative and activity. Blue was shown to have lower mildness than red and yellow. The high saturated chroma was perceived to be higher initiative and activity than low chroma. The shirts were evaluated higher in activity and mildness than the casual jackets were. The beige pants were perceived to be higher in dignity and mildness than the dark blue pants. The high chroma jackets were perceived to be higher in both initiative and activity than the low chroma jackets. The navy blue pants with the upper clothes in low chroma blue were perceived to be higher in politeness than with the upper clothes in low chroma red or yellow. The low value clothes were perceived to be higher in both initiative and dignity.