• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.139-144
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• 2007

In the previous study, we reported the antioxidative activity of Equisetum arvense extracts. In this study, its inhibitory effect on elastase and components were investigated. Aglycone fractions obtained from the deglycosylation reaction of ethylacetate fraction among the Equisetum arvense extracts, showed 4 bands and 4 peaks in TLC and HPLC experiments, respectively. Four components were identified as luteolin(composition ratio, 19.12%), quercetin(12.87), apigenin(15.81) and kaempferol(52.20). TLC chromatogram of ethylacetate fraction of Equisetum arvense extract revealed 7 bands and HPLC chromatogram showed 8 peaks, which were identified as kaempferol-3,7-O-diglucoside(composition ratio, 15.74%), luteolin-5-O-glucoside(galuteolin, 11.91), apigenin-5-O-glucoside(12.91), kaempferol-3-O-glucoside(astragalin, 27.94), quercetin-glycoside(10.81, structure was not determined), kaempferol-glycoside (12.33, structure was not determined), luteolin(3.72) and apigenin(4.62) in the order of elution time. The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction on elastase($IC_{50}$, $9.8{\mu}g/mL$) was very high. But ethylacetate fraction(flavonoid glycosides) rarely exhibited the inhibitory activity on elastase. Combined with the previous results of the antioxidative activity of Equisetum arvense extracts, it is concluded that the inhibitory activity on elastase of the aglycone fraction could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for smoothing wrinkles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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• v.46 no.8
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• pp.952-956
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• 2017

An high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analysis method was developed for standard determination of coixol as a functional cosmetic material in Coix lachryma-jobi var. ma-yuen roots extract. HPLC was performed on a $C_{18}$ Unison US column ($4.6{\times}250mm$, $5{\mu}m$ column) using a gradient elution of 0.1% (v/v) trifluoroacetic acid and acetonitrile at a flow rate of 1.0 mL/min at $30^{\circ}C$. The analyte was detected at 290 nm. The HPLC method was validated in accordance with the International Conference on Harmonization guideline of analytical procedures with respect to specificity, precision, accuracy, and linearity. The limit of detection and quantitation were 0.07 and 0.25 mg/mL, respectively. Calibration curves showed good linearity ($R^2$>0.9995), and the precision of analysis was satisfied (less than 0.29%). Recoveries of quantified compounds ranged from 98.36 to 100.30%. This result indicates that the established HPLC method is very useful for the determination of a marker compound in C. lachryma-jobi var. ma-yuen roots extracts.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.1
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• pp.1-8
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• 2008

Epidermis is one of the most dynamic organs in the human body. Multiple layers of keratinocytes in the epidermis continuously undergo proliferation, differentiation, and desquamation cycles, which is the bases of maintaining the epidermal homeostasis. Epidermal homeostasis eventually leads to establish and maintain permeability barrier homeostasis, the most important function of the epidermis. The permeability barrier is located in the stratum corneum. Tightly coordinated regulations are required for the sustained normal barrier function. Extensive studies have established that several nuclear hormone liposensors, including peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor a PPARa, PPARb/d, PPARg and LXRs are expressed in keratinocyte. Activation of PPARs and LXRs could provide a mechanism to coordinate the formation of the corneocytes and extracellular lipid membranes that constitute the stratum corneum. Topical application of PPAR/LXR ligands to murine skin results in the increased expression of keratinocyte differentiation-related proteins, such as involucrin, loricrin, profilaggrin, and trans-glutaminase 1, which would stimulate cornified envelope formation. In conclusion, topical application of ligands or activators of PPAR/LXR as an epidermotherapy would be a promising option to deal dry skin conditions such as atopy.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.107-117
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to provide basic data for the development of UV protection products using natural materials. The research method is investigation and analyzation of the current status of the domestic and foreign industries, natural material research trends, and patent status of skin care-related sunscreen. As the result of the study, the U.S. market for sunscreen is the largest one, accounting for about 21% of the world, and the Chinese market is rapidly growing. The top four major types of functional cosmetics in Korea are complex functional products, followed by wrinkle improvement, sunscreen and whitening, and both the global and domestic markets continue to grow continuously. Over the past decade, research trends in natural sunscreen materials have shown that Scutellaria baicalensis, Humulus lupulus L., licorice, Finger root, Green tea, lespedeza cuneata extracts are effective, and in addition, they are also effective in photo-aging, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, whitening, and wrinkle improvement. The patent registration status is on the rise and the ingredients were secured from plants and seaweeds. As the conclusion of this research, It is expected that natural UV protection material will be able to be used as multi-functional cosmetics material by developing safe and proven natural materials in line with future global trends.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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• v.41 no.8
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• pp.1057-1065
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• 2012

The effects of volatile flavor extracts of eight different herbal medicines, Juniperus rigida (JR), Saussurea lappa SL), Cnidium officinale (CO), Angelica gigas (AG), Eugenia caryophyllata (EC), Angelica tenuissima (AT), Mentha arvense (MA), and Artemisiae argyi (AA), were investigated on LPS-stimulated inflammation using Raw 264.7 cells. The volatile flavor extracts of CO and AG considerably inhibited LPS-stimulated NO, $PGE_2$, IL-6, and TNF-${\alpha}$ (except AG) production, as well as iNOS expression. Major volatile components of CO were identified as ligustilide and of ${\beta}$-eudesmol as AG by GC-MS analysis. Thus, these results suggest that the volatile extracts of CO and AG may be useful as potential therapeutic agents for inflammation-associated disorders.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.4
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• pp.333-340
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• 2019

This study attempted to eatablish a high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analysis method for the determination of avicularin, quercitrin as a part of the quality control for the development of functional cosmetic materials from Astilbe chinensis extract. HPLC was performed on a Capcell Pak C₁₈ MGII column with a gradient elution of 0.05% (v/v) trifluoroacetic acid (TFA) and acetonitrile at a flow rate of 1.0 mL/min at 30 ℃. The analyte was detected at 254 nm. The HPLC method was performed in accordance with the international conference on harmonization (ICH) guideline (version 4, 2005) of analytical procedures with respect to specificity, precision, accuracy, and linearity. The limits of detection and quantitation of avicularin and quercitrin were 0.094 and 0.285 mg/mL, 0.031 and 0.095 mg/mL respectively. Calibration curves showed good linearity r² > 0.99990 for avicularin and r² > 0.99994 for quercitrin. Precision of analysis was satisfied with less than 0.59% for avicularin and 0.63% for quercitrin. Recoveries of quantified compounds ranged from 100.97 to 101.77% for avicularin and 100.18 to 100.32% for quercitrin. These result indicated that the established HPLC method is very useful for the determination of marker compounds in A. chinensis extracts.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.87-93
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• 2019

This study attempted to eatablish a High Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) analysis method for the determination of (-)-epicatechin gallate as a part of the quality control for the development of functional cosmetic materials from Penthorum chinense Pursh. HPLC was performed on a Unison $US-C_{18}$ column ($4.6{\times}250mm$, $5{\mu}m$) with a gradient elution of 0.05% (v/v) trifluoroacetic acid (TFA) and methyl alcohol at a flow rate of 1.0 mL/min at $30^{\circ}C$. The analyte was detected at 280 nm. The HPLC method was performed in accordance with the International Conference on Harmonization (ICH) guideline (version 4, 2005) of analytical procedures with respect to specificity, precision, accuracy, and linearity. The limits of detection and quantitation were 0.11 and 0.33 mg/mL, respectively. Calibration curves showed good linearity ($r^2$ > 0.9999), and the precision of analysis was satisfied (less than 0.6%). Recoveries of quantified compounds ranged from 99.51 to 101.92%. This result indicates that the established HPLC method is very useful for the determination of marker compound in P. chinense Pursh extracts.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.1
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• pp.57-63
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• 2021

In this study, isoscoparin was selected as an indicator component to develop Silene seoulensis extract as a functional cosmetic material, and we developed an analysis method using high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) for quality control. HPLC was performed on a Unison US-C18 with a gradient elution of 0.05% (v/v) trifluoroacetic acid (TFA) and methanol at a flow rate of 1.0 mL/min at 35 ℃, and the detection wavelength was 330 nm. The HPLC method was performed in accordance with the international conference on harmonization (ICH) guideline (version 4, 2005) of analytical procedures with respect to specificity, precision, accuracy, and linearity. The limits of detection and quantitation were 0.02 and 0.07 mg/mL respectively. Calibration curves showed good linearity (R2 > 0.99988), and the precision of analysis was satisfied (less than 0.46%). In addition, the recovery rate was in the range of 99.10 to 101.61%, it was shown to be accurate. This result indicated that the established HPLC method is very useful for the determination of marker compounds in Silene seoulensis extracts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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• v.46 no.10
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• pp.1158-1163
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• 2017

This study investigated the antioxidative activity and whitening efficacy of Crataegus pinnatifida Bunge fruit 70% ethanol extract (CFE). The total polyphenol contents of CFE was 61.31 mg/g, and the total flavonoid contents was 25.42 mg/g. The electron donating ability of CFE at a concentration of $1,000{\mu}g/mL$ was 85.80%. The ABTS radical scavenging activity, and reducing power of CFE at a concentration of $1,000{\mu}g/mL$ were 17.3% and 0.31, relatively. The maximum permissible levels of CFE in melanoma cells were $100{\mu}g/mL$. CFE at $50{\mu}g/mL$ reduced melanin contents by 8.5%. CFE at $1,000{\mu}g/mL$ reduced intracellular tyrosinase activity by 46.83%. Collectively, the results of this study suggest that CFE effectively inhibited tyrosinase activity, whereas melanin synthesis was weak. These results suggest that Crataegus pinnatifida Bunge fruit could be used as a whitening agent and antioxidant resources for functional foodstuffs, cosmetics, and beauty industrial materials.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.48 no.4
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• pp.373-383
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• 2022

Inflammation caused by active oxygen and the resulting barrier damage have been consistently pointed out as the cause of wrinkle formation. In this study, effective index ingredient search and efficacy analysis were performed to verify the value of use as a functional cosmetic material related to antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and skin barrier improvement, and anti-aging for extracts of four types of Eleutherococcus divaricatus var. chiisanensis (ED), Eleutherococcus senticosus (EN), Eleutherococcus sessiliflorus (ES), and Eleutherococcus sieboldianus (EI) belonging to the Eleutherococcus genus. To identify the effective index composition, the content of the ingredients was measured by high-performance liquid chromatography. The content of eleutheroside E and chlorogenic acid was the highest in ED among the Eleutherococcus genus. As for anti-oxidant activity, DPPH radical scavenging activity was the highest in ED. In anti-inflammatory effects, ED extracts inhibited nitric oxide generation in inflammatory macrophage cells due to lipopolysaccharide by 40% at 100 ㎍/mL. In the case of IL-6 inhibition, which is known as a pro-inflammatory cytokine, ED showed 41% inhibition at 100 ㎍/mL. In addition, filaggrin and involucrin, which are skin barrier-related factors, were increased by 2.5 times and 1.6 times, respectively, in 100 ㎍/mL of ED extracts, and as for the collagenase, which is a wrinkle-related factor, ED extract showed 29% efficacy at 100 ㎍/mL. Thus, these result suggested that ED extract, among the four Eleutherococcus genus, can be used as a cosmetic ingredient for suppressing inflammation in the skin, reinforcing the skin barrier, and reducing wrinkles.