• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.3
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• pp.265-271
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• 2021

Nanoparticles are substances that are smaller in size and smaller than cells that make up the skin. Therefore, they are very suitable as mediators for transmitting drugs or genes across cell membranes, and also deliver specific ingredients into the skin.In this study, nanoparticles were extracted from mugwort and particles of around 100 nm were obtained through dynamic light scattering (DLS), and the results of concentration-dependent enhancement of cell viability in fibroblasts were obtained through MTT assay. In addition, it was confirmed that the COL1A1 mRNA expression level was increased and the IL-6 mRNA expression level was decreased through the quantitative real-time PCR analysis method. Moreover, as these nanoparticles were confirmed to be stable, they can be applied not only to cell experiments but also to cosmetic formulations. While the demand for plant-derived ingredients continues to increase, excluding chemical ingredients from the recent cosmetics industry trend, there is a limitation in that there are few research results suggesting the application field of plant-derived nanoparticles. Therefore, in order to overcome the limitations of the cosmetic industry at the present time, the results obtained in this study present nanoparticles derived from Artemisia princeps (NDAP) as a highly functional cosmetic material.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.4
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• pp.399-408
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• 2019

Arbutin, which is used as a whitening ingredient, can produce hydroquinone, known as causing skin disease and carcinogen. Preservatives are essential to prevent microbial contamination during long-term storage and use of cosmetics, but safety issues such as toxicity and skin irritation are being raised. This study was conducted to determine hydroquinone and 21 preservatives levels in 40 arbutin-containing whitening functional cosmetics sold on-line and off-line. Result showed that 9 products contained hydroquinone. The concentrations in 7 products were ranged from 0.3 to 0.9 ppm, which were within the maximum allowed amount established by the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety. However, 2 products were 8.4 and 50.5 ppm and exceeded the allowed amount. Preservatives were detected 20 products. Detected items and ranges were phenoxy ethanol 0.1 ~ 0.7% (N = 15), Methyl paraben 0.19 ~ 0.21% (N = 2), Chlorphenesin 0.13% (N = 1), chlorhexidine 0.006% (N = 1), Propyl paraben 0.06% (N = 1), which were within maximum allowed amount established by the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety. Also, in cases of functional cosmetics the phrase "functional cosmetics" should be expressed on the primary or secondary package of cosmetics by cosmetics act. However, 1 product did not state the phrase as functional cosmetics. This study suggest that preservatives were safely managed. However, hydroquinone in hydroquinone-detected products could be produced by the decomposition of arbutin. Thus, further studies on the decomposition of arbutin are required to improve the quality control of the cosmetics.

• Korean Chemical Engineering Research
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• v.52 no.6
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• pp.701-705
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• 2014

Water extracts of root, leaf, branch and fruit of Cudrania tricuspidata were tested to use as natural antiwrinkle and whitening cosmetic ingredient. Root extract indicated 86.5 mg/g polyphenol concentration and 55.5 mg/g flavonoid concentration. From MTT test, root, branch and fruit extract did not show cell toxicity up to $1,000{\mu}g/mL$, however, leaf extract displayed significant cell toxicity in concentrations higher than $200{\mu}g/mL$. Cudrania tricuspidata root extracts displayed excellent 81% tyrosinase inhibition (whitening effect), 58% elastase inhibition (antiwrinkle effect) at $500{\mu}g/mL$ and showed minor UVB absorbance. When solution and lotion formulation were made including Cudrania tricuspidata root extract, they are stable at $25^{\circ}C$ for 21 days, but showed significant deviation in viscosity and particle size at $47^{\circ}C$. From the study, Cudrania tricuspidata root extract demonstrated good potential for natural whitening and antiwrinkle cosmetic agent.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.3 s.47
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• pp.313-320
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• 2004

Human skin is continuously exposed to internal and external influences that may affect its condition and functioning. To maintain and improve skin condition, a wide variety of skin-care products is in the market. However, many of skin problems originate from internal causes, and the new insight into the relation between nutritional factors and skin is now receiving a great attention. Specific positive effects of nutrients or nutraceutical compounds on skin conditions may prove to be biologically relevant and may consequently allow for claims on products containing these compounds, resulting in the development of new functional food for optimal skin condition. In this review, these functions of nutrients and nutraceutical compounds in skin are summarized as providing a basis for the feasibility of the concept of functional foods for maintaining and improving skin condition.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.2 s.51
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• pp.207-212
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• 2005

Pomegranate (Punica granatum L.) which is very rich in Polyphenols and tannins was recently reported its anti-oxidant activities and phytoestrogenic activities in vivo test and many clinical studies, but the effects of them on the skin have not been reported. The experiments were tarried out in vitro to determine anti-oxidant activities of pomegranate extracts on DPPH radical scavenging assay, NBT/Xanthine Oxidase-superoxide scavenging assay, silica-induced intracellular $H_2O_2$, hydroperoxide and superoxide generation assay in RAW 264.7 cells. It showed that the methanolic extract of dried pomegranate peels have the most significant anti-oxidant activities on free radical scavenging assay and inhibitory activities on silica-induced intracellular free radical generation in RAW 264.7 cells. The concentrated juice of pomegranate showed only DPPH radical scavenging activities and inhibited hyaluronidase activity. Moreover, pomegranate seed oil inhibited specially silica-induced intracellular hydroperoxide generation in RAW 264.7 cells. These results suggest that the methanolic extract of dried pomegranate peels and pomegranate seed oil have more anti-oxidant activity than concentrated juice of pomegranate. Thus the extracts of pomegranate peels and seed oil could be developed cosmetic ingredients for anti-aging.

• Journal of Digital Convergence
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• v.15 no.10
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• pp.571-577
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• 2017

This study aimed at evaluating the potential of makgeolli, which is widely consumed as beverage, as a functional cosmetic ingredient, based on analyses on its antioxidant activity and tyrosinase activity inhibitory effect. The sample was extracted by concentrating the suspension obtained after adding MeOH (3 L) to the residue of a commercial makgeolli and then adding EtOAc (3 L) to the concentrate, which was subjected to fractionation. The upper layer of the fractions was used as the final sample. In MTT assay assessments, no cytotoxicity was observed at a concentration range of 10 to $1,000{\mu}g/mL$; the antioxidant activity of the extract showed a concentration-dependent tendency and it had a high activity with an $EC_{50}$ of 7.008 mg/mL. Also, in a tyrosinase activity inhibitory effect assessment, the extract showed an $IC_{50}$ value of 39.22 mg/mL. These results confirmed that this sample has potential as a functional cosmetic ingredient.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.18 no.12
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• pp.755-761
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• 2017

This study was conducted to establish an analytical method using an HPLC system equipped with a photodiode array (PDA) detector for the quality control of raw materials and cosmeceuticals containing fucoxanthin as an active ingredient. The column was octadecyl-functionalized silica gel and the measurement wavelength of the PDA was set to 499 nm. To validate the analytical method, the linearity of the calibration curve, detection limit, reproducibility and recovery rate were investigated and good results were obtained. The correlation coefficient of the calibration curve was 1.000 and the linearity was good in the concentration range of 0.5 ~ 100 ppm. Moreover, the limit of detection (LOD) was 0.1 ppm and the limit of quantification (LOQ) was 0.5 ppm. The results of the peak reproducibility test used for evaluating the system suitability showed that the RSD (n = 5) of the peak area was 2.0% and that of the retention time was 0.09%. In the spiking test, the recovery rate was $101.6{\pm}0.77%$. The fucoxanthin contents of the two kinds of fucoxanthin-containing raw materials were $49.6{\pm}3.3%$ and $1.03{\pm}0.016%$, respectively. In addition, the fucoxanthin content in the test product, which was intended to be 150 ppm, was $156.7{\pm}4.7ppm$. From the above results, it was concluded that this method could be applied to the quantitative analysis of fucoxanthin in cosmeceuticals.

• Journal of the Korea Convergence Society
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.241-251
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• 2020

This study was performed to develop the cosmetics containing extract of U.davidiana, which has been confirmed as a functional ingredient of anti-microbial, anti-oxidant, and anti-inflammatory effects, and also to evaluate the improvement effects of dry and sensitive skin such as atopic dermatitis. Toxicity tests of the Ulmus davidiana supercritical fluid residue 60% EtOH extracts(USCFR), Ulmus davidiana supercritical fluid extracts(USCF) and preliminary formulations, DKBP-1903(gel), containing the USCFR and USCF were determined to be 'Non-toxic'. Based on this, the stability test of the lotion, cream, gel formulation was conducted and the results showed that cream and gel formulation were stable. A 48-hour moisturizing sustainability test and the improvement test on the pruritus caused by dryness were selected for the cosmetic efficacy test to evaluate the improvement of atopic dermatitis and as a result both cream and gel have been found to be relatively safe moisturizers that can help dry and sensitive skin.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.225-235
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• 2019

Cymbopogon citratus (CC) and Perilla frutescens (PF) are known to exert various biological effects. However, their skin hydration and skin barrier effects remain unclear. This study investigated effects of their extracts on skin hydration and skin barrier and analysed the phenolic compounds. effects of these extracts on skin hydration in HaCaT cells showed that Hyaluronic acid production in cells treated with ethanol extracts was higher than that treated with water extracts for both CC and PF. HPLC was used to analyse 19 phenolic compounds in CC and PF ethanol extracts (CCE and PFE). Results revealed chlorogenic acid and p-coumaric acid in CCE and rosmarinic acid and caffeic acid in PFE. Expression levels of hyaluronan synthase 1 (HAS1), HAS2, HAS3, and aquaporin 3 (AQP3), which are related to skin moisturization, and filaggrin and loricrin, which are related to skin barrier were higher in cells treated with CCE than with PFE. CCE and PFE also increased expression of PPAR-a protein involved in skin moisturization and epidermal differentiation in a concentration-dependent manner. As major components of CCE, chlorogenic acid and p-coumaric acid increased PPAR-a protein expression. Thus, CCE and PFE could be used as functional cosmetic materials for skin hydration and skin barrier effects.

• Proceedings of the Plant Resources Society of Korea Conference
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• 2018.04a
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• pp.69-69
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• 2018

아로니아(Aronia czarna)는 anthocyanin, polyphenol, flavonoid, cathechine, chlorogenic acid와 같은 생리활성물질이 풍부하게 존재하며 항산화, 항암, 항균, 피부건강개선, 노화방지 등 다양한 생리활성에 대한 효능이 있는 것으로 알려져 있어 건강 및 기능성식품, 화장품 등의 원료 소재로 각광받고 있다. 생물전환(Bioconversion)은 미생물 또는 효소의 생물학적 촉매 반응을 활용하여 기존 소재의 성분을 변환시키는 기술이다, 최근 생물전환을 활용한 천연소재의 생리활성 물질 기능성, 생체이용률, 안전성을 증대시키기 위한 방안으로 많은 연구가 진행되고 있으며 식품, 의약품, 화장품 등 다양한 분야에서 활성화 되고 있다. 본 연구는 젓갈로부터 분리한 균주를 유전학적 특성을 확인하기 위하여 16S rDNA 염기서열을 분석한 뒤 그중 유산균을 발효공정에 활용하였다. 전북 순창에서 수확된 아로니아 분말과 발효공정을 수행하였으며 아로니아 최적 추출조건 선정, 발효공정 전 후 추출물의 기능성 평가를 진행하기 위하여 DPPH radical scavenging activity, Total polyphenol 함량을 확인하여 항산화 효능 및 유효성분 함량을 평가하였다. 또한 대식세포인 Raw 264.7을 사용하여 MTT assay, Nitric oxide (NO) 생성 억제 효능을 확인하여 세포독성 및 항염증 활성을 평가하였다. 실험결과, 젓갈류 발효물로부터 16종의 다양한 균주를 확보하였으며, 그중 L. rhamnosus, L. plantarum, P. pentosaceus 균을 발효 공정에 활용하여 유용 균주를 선정 결과 P. pentosaceus 종 유산균 처리군에서 무처리군 대비 DPPH radical 소거능 및 polyphenol 함량이 증가됨을 확인하였다. 발효공정 후 항산화 활성은 무처리군 대비 약 119%, polyphenol의 함량은 무처리군 대비 약 119%로 증가됨을 확인되었다. 또한 Raw 264.7 세포실험 결과 발효공정 후 독성활성이 감소되는 경향을 확인되었으며, 항염증 활성이 월등히 증가됨을 확인하였다.