• Title/Summary/Keyword: 그레이딩룰

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A Study on the Skirt Grading Rule According to Somatotype (스커트의 체형별 그레이딩룰에 대한 연구)

  • Jeong, Young-Mi;Koo, Mi-Ji
    • The Journal of Natural Sciences
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    • v.10 no.1
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    • pp.141-151
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    • 1998
  • The purpose of this study was to suggest the skirt grading rule for different somatotypes. For this study 9 subjects were classified three types according to the shape of front hips such as diamond, standard, heart. Skirts pattern were made by Moonwha grading method for traditional grading rule. For each somatotypes, skirt pattern were graded by new grading rule. The sensory evaluations were practiced for appearance and function. At the result, comparing between the new grading rule and traditional grading rule, new grading rule was fitter than the traditional grading rule. And diamond type was distinctively better than the other somatotype at sensory evaluation appearance. For pattern making of diamond type it had better use the new grading rule that was considered the characteristics of body shape.

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Improved special grading of 2D ShoeCAD System (2D ShoeCAD 시스템에서의 향상된 특수 그레이딩)

  • 김희준;이건호;김영봉
    • Proceedings of the Korea Multimedia Society Conference
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    • 2003.11b
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    • pp.601-604
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    • 2003
  • 신발 설계 시스템에서 그레이딩 기능은 기본 사이즈로 설계된 신발 라스트를 생산하고자 하는 여러 사이즈로 변환하는 작업이다. 그레이딩(Grading) 작업은 전체적으로 적용되는 제로 그레이딩(Zero Grading)과 특정한 부분에 개별적인 룰을 적용하는 센터 그레이딩(Center Grading)으로 구분된다. 이 두 방식을 혼용하여 그레이딩 작업을 수행하는데, 이 때, 휘어짐이나 일그러짐과 같은 부적절한 결과가 발생할 수 있고, 이런 오류를 보정하기 위해 제약조건들(Restrictions)을 적용한다. 이와 같이 센터 그레이딩과 제약조건들을 적용한 그레이딩을 특수 그레이딩이라 한다. 기존의 신발 설계 시스템에서는 이런 특수 그레이딩에 대해 속도가 느리거나, 기능이 미비하거나 지원하지 않는 문제점이 있다 본 논문에서는 이런 문제점들을 해결하고, 특수 그레이딩을 위한 제약조건을 다중으로 적용할 수 있도록 보완하였다.

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A Study on the Pattern and Grading Rule for Dress Shirts (드레스 셔츠 원형 설계 및 그레이딩룰에 관한 연구)

  • 황영미;이정란
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.27 no.1
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    • pp.48-59
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    • 2003
  • The purposes of this research lie in developing dress shirts pattern targeting adult males between 25-34 years of age and presenting the rules of grading according to the real circumstances of dress shirts industry. The findings of this research are as follows: 1. The surveyed companies kept different size systems ranged from 5 to 18. They kept different size systems each other, and the pattern making was conducted by modification of the collar size, chest size, etc of the pattern developed through each company's know-how. All the surveyed companies were using point method of grading. 2. The method of the research pattern was to adopt N/6+1(cm) for the width of the back of the neck. N/6 for the front neck, N/6+2 for the depth of the front neck, B/6+7 for the shoulder width, B/6+5.5 for the breast width, B/4+5 for the whole width (back), B/4+4 for the whole width (front), B/4+3.5 for the depth, AH/2+0.5 for the back arm hole, AH2+1 for the front arm hole. 3. The grading rule was made after classifying the sizes into 14 centered on the standard size 40. Through the wearing test of research grading rule, 1 found the suitability of grading size 36 and 43 satisfiable.

A Study on the Paraplegia Men′s Ready-made Pants Pattern and Grading Method (하반신마비 남성의 기성복 바지원형 및 그레이딩 연구)

  • Kim, Kyung-Im;Lee, Jeon-Ran
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.27 no.12
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    • pp.1441-1452
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    • 2003
  • 오늘날 지체장애인의 수는 후천적 원인으로 인하여 점점 증가하는 추세에 있다. 이에 본 연구는 훨체어를 사용하는 하반신마비자 중 성인남성을 중심으로 인체계측을 통해 적합성이 높은 바지를 개발하는데 목적이 있다. 연구 결과는 다음과 같다. 1. 인체계측 결과 하반신마비자들은 정상인과 비교했을 때 허리둘레 및 배둘레에서 유의한 차이를 보여 새로운 치수체계가 필요로 함을 알 수 있었다 또 자세 변화에 따른 둘레항목의 치수 변화와 피부 신축율에 의해 허리선의 변화가 고려되어 평상시의 휠체어에 앉은 자세에서 계측한 항목으로 원형이 설계되어야 할 필요가 있다고 분석되었다. 2. 연구원형은 기성복화 하기 위한 방법으로 먼저 기준치수(98-102)를 선정하고, 원형 각 부위는 절대치로 수치화 시켜서 제시하였다. 뒤밑위길이선은 허리선에서 8cm 늘이고 앞밑위길이선은 허리선에서 6cm 줄여 앉은 자세에서 편안함을 확보할 수 있도록 하였다. 기준치수의 경우 바지길이 107cm, 밑위길이 26cm, 밑위선 28cm, 엉덩이둘레선은 밑위선 위로 8.5cm, 바지부리는 10.5cm이고 외관과 기능성 평가 결과 대부분의 항목에서 우수한 평가를 받았다. 3. 계측 대상자 계측치를 근거로 치수의 출현율을 고려하여 연구 치수체계를 기본 신체부위인 앉은 허리둘레와 앉은 엉덩이둘레의 순으로 적용하여 총 7개의 치수로 설정하였다. 기준치수(98-102)의 연구원형을 마스터 패턴으로 하고 구체적인 원형 부위별 절대치로써 치수 차를 검토하여 연구 그레이딩 룰을 설계하였으며 기준치수 보다 작은 사이즈 88-93과 큰 사이즈 108-111의 적합성을 검증하였다.

A Study on the Comparative Evaluation of wearing Fitness of Women′s Ready-made Jackets Using 3D Scanner (3D Scanner를 이용한 여성용 기성복 재킷의 착의적합성에 관한 비교평가연구)

  • Kim, Haekyung;Eunyoung Suk;Park, Soonjee;Chuyeon Suh;Jiyoung Lim
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.25 no.10
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    • pp.1707-1718
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    • 2001
  • 본 연구 목적은 3차원 인체 스캐너를 이용하여 여자 기성복 재킷의 여유량을 비교, 분석하는 것으로, 2사이즈 7브랜드의 재킷의 공극량을 계측하여 분석하였다. 첫째, 재킷 단면둘레 분석 결과, B85(품), B8(허리)를 제외하고 브랜드간에 유의한 차이를 나타내지 않아, 전반적으로, 브랜드간 제품치수에는 차이가 없는 것으로 나타났다. 둘째, 인체와 재킷의 단면둘레 분석 결과, 재킷의 배둘레를 제외한 모든 항목에서 유의한 차이가 나타나 피험자, 재킷 모두 사이즈에 따라 유의적인 차이 가 있음을 알 수 있다. 셋째, 기본사이즈 B85에서는 허리를 제외하고는 패턴 F가 가장 여유량이 많은 것으로 나타났으나, B88의 경우, 부위별로 각기 다른 패턴에서 여유량이 가장 많은 것으로 나타나, 각 부분마다 브랜드별로 그레이딩 룰이 다름을 알 수 있다. 넷째, 착의 단면은 인체와 의복간의 여유량 분포를 명백히 보여주며, 어깨, 가슴, 엉덩이처럼 몸에 밀착되는 부위는 다른 부위에 비해 패턴간, 각도별 변이가 적은 것으로 나타났다. 품, 허리, 배에서는 옆보다는 앞, 뒤로, 가슴에서는 앞뒤 좌우의 30$^{\circ}$방향, 엉덩이의 경우, 옆, 뒤보다는 앞쪽에 여유량이 집중되어 있는 것으로 나타났다. 다섯째, 브랜드별 평균공극길이에 대한 분산분석 결과, 전반적으로 패턴 F가 가장 공극량이 많고, 패턴 D가 작은 것으로 나타났다. 여섯째, 사이즈별 평균공극길이에 대한 t-검정 결과, 품과 배 부분에서, B88이 B85보다 공극량이 적은 것으로 나타나, 기준부위인 가슴, 허리, 엉덩이 부분뿐만 아니라 품, 배둘레의 치수에 대응할 수 있도록 그레이딩 룰 값을 산정하여야 함을 알 수 있다.

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A Study on the Junior-High School Girls' Slacks Pattern Grading by Using Apparel CAD System (CAD 시스템을 활용한 여중생의 슬랙스 패턴 그레이딩에 관한 연구)

  • 임지영
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.40 no.11
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    • pp.1-9
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    • 2002
  • Nowadays, the use of apparel CAD system is important to the mass production of ready to wear Especially, computer-based grading is the most important process to improve the fitness of clothes and to reduce the time needed to make patterns of several sizes. The purpose of this study was to suggest a standard sizing system for junior-high school girls' lower clothes and to suggest a grading method according to the sizing systems. The subjects were 402 junior-high school girls of 13 to 15 year's-old. The size intervals of waist girth and hip girth were 3㎝ and 4㎝ respectively. The sizing system, which had frequencies more than 4.5%, was classified 8 cases. For regular grading, two types of group were classified into 58-82/61-86/64-90/67-94 and 61-82/64-86/67-90/70-94. Among them, 61-86 and 64-86 size were adopted the basic size for the development of grading. According to the sizing system, hand-made patterns were manufactured. By measure of the each part of the slacks, new grading rule patterns were developed by each size. A new grading rule was different from the Moonwha grading rule. This result will contribute to clothing fitness of consumer and the amount of production.

Development of Bi-directional Grading Method for Uniform Easy-order System -Focused on Blouse for Adult Female- (유니폼의 이지오더 시스템을 위한 양방향 그레이딩 개발 -성인여성 블라우스를 중심으로-)

  • Choi, Young-Lim;Nam, Yun-Ja;Choi, Kueng-Mi
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.33 no.6
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    • pp.860-868
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    • 2009
  • To provide adequate fit for women over a range of sizes, the grading process should reflect their body dimensions. Current methods of creating sized garments are not addressing the need for a good or even an adequate fit for the easy-order system. This study suggests a grading rule allocating system that can improve the appropriateness of clothing for uniform easy-order system. Also, the study proposes a bi-directional grading method subdivided to horizontal and vertical direction. The grading rule allocating system suggested the size increments which improve the fitness of uniform. Using the 5th Size Korea data, the crosstabulation was conducted with 1305 females in the age group $20{\sim}49$ years, and the size increments including $155\sim165$ of height section and $79\sim94$ of bust section, was selected for easy-order system. Also, the bi-directional grading method subdivided in horizontal and vertical direction was followed by factor analysis based on the circumference and height. And the grading rules were calculated by regression analysis.

A Development of the Lower Clothes Grading Rule for High School Boys (남자 고등학생의 하의류 그레이딩에 룰 개발에 대한 연구)

  • Lim, Ji-Young
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.6 no.5
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    • pp.634-640
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    • 2004
  • Nowadays, the use of apparel CAD system is important to the mass production of ready to wear. Especially, computer-based grading is the most important process to improve the fitness of clothes and to reduce the time needed to make various size pattern. The purpose of this study was to suggest a standard sizing system for high school boys' pants and to suggest a grading method according to the sizing systems. The subjects were 217 high school boys of 16 to 18 year-old. The size intervals of waist girth and hip girth were 3 cm and 4 cm respectively. The sizing system, which had frequencies more than 4%, was classified 8 cases. Among them, 71-92 and 71-88 size were the most frequent size and were adopted the basic size for the two types of grading. According to the sizing system, hand-made patterns were manufactured. By measure of the each part of the slacks, 4 size's new grading-rule patterns were developed by each size. This result will contribute to clothing fitness of consumer and the amount of production.

Study on the development of pattern and grading rule of slacks (20대 여성의 기성복 슬랙스 패턴 및 그레이딩 룰 연구)

  • Park, Woo-Mee;Wee, Eun-Ha;Kim, Yoon-Wha;Park, Choon-Duk
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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    • v.8 no.4
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    • pp.13-22
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    • 2005
  • The purpose of this study was to develop pattern and grading method of slacks of adults women of standard somatotype to prove fitness of lower body shape. The results of this study can be summarized as follows: 1. the 4 pattern were compared by the sensory evaluation to choose which one is more appropriate to this research. The slacks pattern developed by modification from L method. 2. The results of the sensory evaluation have down that the new slacks pattern have better fit than the traditional pattern. 3. The standard sized patterns were graded using Moonwha grading rule as a traditional one and the new grading rule. The new grading rule was developed by fitting the slacks which were made by traditional grading rule. 4. The results of the sensory evaluation have down that the slacks made by the new grading rule developed in this work have better fit than the ones made by the traditional grading rule.

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