• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.73-78
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• 2010

Wave energy is dissipated mainly by friction on the seabed until the waves reach the surf zone. Many researchers have investigated the mechanism of wave friction and the bottom shear stress induced by wave motion at a certain point is now well estimated by introducing the wave friction factor related to the near bed velocity given by linear wave theory. The variation of wave energy or wave height over a long distance can be, however, estimated by an iteration process when the propagation of waves is strongly influenced by bed friction. In the present study simple semi-theoretical equation has been developed to compute the variation of wave height for the condition of wave propagation on a constant beach slope. The ratio of wave height is determined by the product of shoalng factor and wave height friction factor (frictional wave energy dissipation factor). The wave height estimated by the new equation is compared with the wave height estimated by the solution of numerical integration for the condition that the waves propagate on a constant slope.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2013.06a
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• pp.270-272
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• 2013

In order to protect coastal facilities mainly from wave and current actions, the self-locking bio blocks constituting component elements of protecting structures against scouring were designed. These blocks are adapted to the sloping bottom, coastal dunes, and submerged coastal base counteracting the destructive and erosive impulse action. A series of laboratory experiments is necessary to investigate the reflection of water waves over and against a train of protruded or submerged shore structures and compare the reflecting capabilities of incident waves including wave forces. In this study the hydraulic model experiment was conducted to identify the performance of newly designed water affinity bio blocks to keep the coast slope and bottom mound from scouring by reduction of the reflection coefficient and to convince stability of the placements. Revised design of each element of blocks were also tested for field conditions. From the result of experiment, the field applicability of the developed blocks and placement is to be discussed afterward.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2016.05a
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• pp.32-32
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• 2016

정부는 1999년 제정된 연안관리법에 따라 2000년부터 시행 중인 '연안정비계획' 등을 통하여 연안 침식 대응사업을 지원하고 있다. 그러나 연안의 개발은 지속적으로 일어나고 있으며 그 중 동해항 3단계 북방파제 축조공사가 내년 3월 중으로 착공할 것으로 예상된다. 동해항 3단계 개발사업은 동해항을 환동해권 물류 중심 거점 항만으로 육성하기 위해, 오는 2020년까지 대규모 항만개발과 방파제 등이 축조될 예정이다. 이에 따라 본 연구에서는 동해항 3단계 개발사업의 추진에 따른 인근해변의 해안침식 저감대책 방안으로 해안선 및 수심 변화를 예측하고자 한다. 동해항 인근의 추암 해수욕장부터 삼척 해수욕장까지 대상지역 N-line 모델 적용 및 Case분석을 실시한다. 해안선 변화는 Polar coordinate에서 개발된 One-line 모델에 회절 효과를 반영하고 해빈 경사와 쇄파고에 따라 횡단 방향으로 발생하는 표사로 인한 추가적인 해안선 변화 효과를 반영하여 입사파고 변동에 따른 단기적인 해안선 변화의 변동 폭을 제공한다. 연평균 입사 파고에 따라 형성되는 연안방향 표사로부터 해안선이 변동하며 이 해안선을 기준으로 연평균 파고에 따른 전진 폭과 최고 파고에 따른 침식 폭을 제시한다. 동해항 개발 전 변화 예측 모델링과 동해항 개발 후 변화 예측 모델링을 통해 개발에 따른 장래 해안선의 변화 예측 모델링 결과 분석 및 검토를 실시, 동해항 인근 지역에 적합한 해안선 유지관리 방법 결정 및 제안을 하는데 도움을 줄 것이라 기대된다.

• Journal of The Geomorphological Association of Korea
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.53-73
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• 2020

Morphology and grain size distribution of coastal dunes should be well documented because they are critical to dune's buffering capacity and resilience against storm surges. The nationwide coastal dune survey produced the dataset, including beach-dune topographic profiles and grain size parameters for frontal beaches, foredunes, and inland dunes. This research investigated the dataset to describe geomorphic and textural properties of coastal dunes: foredune slopes, dune heights above approximately highest high water, mean size, and sorting, together with associated variables of coastal setting that influence coastal dunes. It also explores the possibility of a dune type scheme based on gran size trends. The results are as follows. First, the coast in which dunes are developed is the primary control on foredune morphology and sediment texture. Coastal dunes on the east coast were developed more alongshore rather than inland, with gentler slopes on the higher ground and out of coarser sand. The shore aspect contributes to this pattern because the east coast cannot benefit from prevailing northwesterly. Second, grain size trends from beaches through foredunes to inland dunes were little identified. Third, 12 dune types were identified from 69 dunes, showing the indicative capability for the status of beaches and dunes. We confirmed that the dataset could increase our understanding of the overall characteristics of coastal dune morphology and texture, though there is something to be improved, for example, establishing the refined and comprehensive field survey protocol.

• 한국해양학회지
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.1-8
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• 1987

The Sinyangri Formation crops out in the vicinity of the Seongsan Peninsula, Cheju Island. Based on sedimentary structures, texture and composition, the lithologic sequence has been classified, in ascending stratigraphic order, into three lithofacies: parallel laminated sandstone facies (Facies I): conglomerate facies(Facies Il); and cross stratified sandstone facies (F acies Ill). Wedge-to-parallel, seaward-inclined in low angle less than 10$^{\circ}$lamina -sets with alternations of coarseand fine-grained sediments in the Facies I are the characteristic sedimentary structures in the foreshore depositional environment. Grains of this faciesare well sorted with good roundness compared with the other two facies, partly showing inverse graded bedding. Facies II,largely composed of claset-supported,very poorly-sorted conglomerates,does not pinch out but occurs continuously along the Sinyangri beach.Interstitial spaces between the clasts are mostly infilled with volcanic-ash and small amounts of well-rounded shell fragments.Maximum bed thickness as well as the size of imbedded basaltic clasts decreases to the south(toward Sinyangri). Large clasts with parallel lamination originated from the underlying Facies i,are generally elongated parallel to the bedding plane and display no systematic horizontal variations in size indicative of in-situ clasts.In view of the facts above it seems that large gravels from the basaltic rocks are transgressive lag conglomerates which are partly affected by the combination of longshore currents and propagating wave.Local occurrence of cross-strata dipping toward the south in the upper part of Facies IIreinforces the evidence of the action of longshore currents. Facies IIIis characterized by bidirectional trough cross-starifiction and wave ripples associated with the upper shoreface(surfzone) environments.In summary,the Sinyangri Formation represents the depositional environments of foreshore to upper shoreface truncated by disconformity between Facies Iand II.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.44 no.4
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• pp.305-311
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• 2020

Rising sea levels along the coast from global warming causes the increase of wave energy along the coast. This rise in sea levels results in relatively deep water levels, which would incur the loss of sand that had not occurred in the past from erosion in coastal areas. Generally, it has been challenging to protect against coastal erosion, and the slope, cross-sectional shape, and materials are selected for the site conditions depending on the change in external forces. However, the application of counter measures based on insufficient understanding of the phenomenon is causing various damage, indicating the need for technological development and converging technologies to improve credibility. In this study, we developed eco-friendly permeable biopolymer concrete blocks to control the coastal erosion by using the Bio-Coast, an effective porous structure that mitigates the destructive erosion caused by the rising sea levels. The hexagonal design of Bio-Coast was derived from the honeycomb, columnar joints, and clover, which are durable and stable structures in nature, and the design was changed to apply bumps on the Bio-Coast filling in the form of a clover to reduce wave overtopping and run-up. Applying the field condition of beaches on the east coast of Korea, the block weight and size were decided and the prototype blocks were manufactured and are ready for field placement. In particular, it is intended to protect coastal areas from destructive erosion by natural and artificial external forces, and to extend the design to river,s lakes, and natural walking trails, to improve the efficiency of quality control and process control through the use of blocks.

• Journal of The Geomorphological Association of Korea
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.17-27
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• 2012

Coastal dunes help stabilize the coastal landscape and protect the hinterland through dynamic interaction with sand beaches. Sometimes dune erosion occurs during the tropical cyclones, while dune recovery may naturally follow after the event. As the typhoon Kompasu passed through the Korean Peninsula early-September in 2010, it caused a rise in water in association with the storm, wave run-ups, and heavy rains in coastal areas. As the result, coastal dunes along the west coast of Korea were severely damaged during the storm. However, the degree and extent of erosion and recovery of dunes were found to be related with the condition of beach-dune systems including gradients of foreshore and front slope of the dune, sediment supply, vegetation, wind activity, and human interferences. Some dunes retreated landward more and more after the erosional event, while others recovered its original profile by aeolian transport processes mainly during the winter season. Vegetated dunes with pine trees were less recovered after the erosion than grass-covered dunes. In addition, dunes with artificial defense were more eroded and less recovered than those without hard constructions. According to the observation after the severe storm, it is likely that the sand transport process is critical to the dune recovery. Therefore, the interactions between beach and dune must be properly evaluated from a geomorphological perspective for the effective management of coastal dunes, including natural recovery after the erosion by storm events.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.28 no.1B
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• pp.95-109
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• 2008

We numerically analyzed the nonlinear shoaling, a plunging breaker and its accompanying energetic suspension of sediment at a bed, and a redistribution of suspended sediments by a down rush of preceding waves and the following plunger using SPH with a Gaussian kernel function, Lagrangian Dynamic Smagorinsky model (LDS), Van Rijn's pick up function. In that process, we came to the conclusion that the conventional model for the tractive force at a bottom like a quadratic law can not accurately describe the rapidly accelerating flow over a swash zone, and propose new methodology to accurately estimate the bottom tractive force. Using newly proposed wave model in this study, we can successfully duplicate severely deformed water surface profile, free falling water particles, a queuing splash after the landing of water particles on the free surface and a wave finger due to the structured vortex on a rear side of wave crest (Narayanaswamy and Dalrymple, 2002), a circulation of suspended sediments over a swash zone, net transfer of sediments clouds suspended over a swash zone toward the offshore, which so far have been regarded very difficult features to mimic in the computational fluid mechanics.

• The Korean Journal of Petroleum Geology
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• v.10 no.1_2 s.11
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• pp.10-17
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• 2004

The Doowoo-ri tidal flat in the southwestern Korean coast is a typical open-coast tidal flat which has no barriers in the offshore such as barrier island and sand bars. The difference of induced wave energy with seasons is affected directly on the distribution of surface sediment and the formation of sedimentary structures because the sedimentation by wind wave is relatively much important element in this open-coast tidal flat. This open-coast tidal flat can be classified into tidal beach, intertidal flat and lower mudflat according to the pattern of geomorphology and sediment type. The intertidal flat can be again divided into 3 types: sand flat, mixed flat and mud flat based on the primary sedimentary structure and sand/mud ratio. Doowoori tidal flat shows a seasonal change in the surface sedimentary facies based on sediment composition and primary sedimentary structure. The change is closely related to the direction and magnitude of monsoon wind and also to storm frequency. In winter and spring, when northwesterly wind is most dominant and strong and also storms are common, sand-flat facies is largely distributed on the intertidal flat, whereas mud-flat facies is most dominant during summer when weak southeasterly wind is common. In the fall season, mixed-flat facies is dominant on the flat. The Doowoori intertidal flat is covered by mud sediment which is ca. 20 cm in thickness in summer season. In winter season, surface sediment is changed from mud to sand because the summer mud is mostly eroded by strong wave action. Can-core peels in the intertidal flat show that parallel laminated mud or sand/mud and climbing ripple cross-laminated sandy silt are dominant on the upper intertidal flat $(0-1.3 {\cal}km)$ during summer season. On the other hand, on lower intertidal flat $(1.7-2.3 {\cal}km)$, dominant sedimentary facies is homogeneous mud. In winter, it is changed into parallel laminated and ripple cross-laminated sand facies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.552-561
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• 2023

The seafloor topography of Gomso Bay on the west coast of Korea was investigated using subtidal bathymetry and tidal-flat altimetry. Gomso Bay consists of 80% tidal flats and 20% subtidal zone, and is divided into an outer bay and an inner bay by the Jujincheon esturary channel. The outer bay tidal flat, has few tidal channels, has a concave topographic profile, and is characterized by the development of chenier and intertidal sand bars, giving it the appearance of gently sloping, dissipative beaches. The inner bay tidal flat has wide upper and middle tidal flats with a well-developed tidal channel system without cheniers. Moreover, the topographical cross-section between these tidal channels is convex upward, and shows the characteristics of a depositional environment greatly influenced by tidal channels and tidal action. An analysis of the horizontal movement of the tidal flat environment over the past 37 years investigating changes in the iso-depth lines in the Gomso-Bay tidal flat between 1981 and 2018 revealed that the Gomso-Bay tidal flat retreated gradually landward. As a result of analyzing the erosion and sedimentation characteristics of Gomso Bay, assuming that most of the water depth changes were due to changes in the elevation of the sea floor and sea level, an average of 1 cm (0 mm/y) of sediment was eroded in the outer bay over the past 37 years (1981-2018), In the inner bay, an average of 50 cm (14 mm/y) was deposited. Notably, the high tidal flats of the outer bay were largely eroded. Monitoring photographs of the coast showed that most of the erosion of the high tidal flats in the outer bay occurred in a short period around 1999 (probably 1997-2002), and that the erosion resulted from the erosion of sand dunes and high-tide beaches caused by temporarily greatly raised high tide levels and storms.