• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.76-92
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to find the meaning of women's fashion in the city culture of Paris in the nineteenth century by examining paintings by the Impressionists. The research method was based on literature survey and visual examination paintings, 224 paintings(by ${\acute{E}}douard$ Manet, James Tissot, Edgar DeGas, Gustave Cailleboat, Jean $B{\acute{e}}raud$, Pierre-Auguste Renoir) were analyzed in this study. The results are as follows: In the nineteenth century, Paris was a new city with new department stores. Department stores were centers of consumer culture, where the power of capital appeared rather than class. The spatial backgrounds of Impressionist paintings were places where they could see the consumption and leisure culture of urban people, such as outdoor parks, cafes, theaters, ballrooms, bars, streets, and the boats. As for the characteristics of women's fashion in paintings, it was found that various changes of artificial silhouettes were developed. Various frills, ruffles, gatherings, and pleats were thought to have been made by machines. In the urban space, many of the women's costumes stood out because of the black color. Not only the black color came to represent widows and mourning but the black outfits worn by women enhanced their sensual appearances. Women's fashion expressed in Impressionist paintings eventually contained a modern meaning that changed from 'class symbol' to 'expression of taste'. And the symbol of consumer and leisure culture showed, and a Demimonde's fashion became a trendsetter, and painters were used as an important element expressing modernity.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.56 no.2
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• pp.80-98
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• 2023

In the late Joseon Dynasty, when the bride would ride a palanquin when she went to live with her in-laws, it was a custom to cover the palanquin with tiger skin to ward off misfortunes that may come her way. The higher classes used tiger skin or leopard skin for this purpose, but the common people had to substitute this expensive item with a tiger pattern painted on a blanket. Such blankets were called hotanja, hogu, hoguyok and the like. The term "hotanja" is a pure Korean word. It is not known when the cover for the bridal palanquin was first used, but it was popular from the end of the 19^th century and then gradually disappeared. This is due to the introduction of new Western style weddings that eliminated the need for a bridal palanquin. The tiger print blanket was used not only to cover the bride's palanquin but also to cover a table or floor during the wedding ceremony. This study ran a material analysis on nine pieces of tiger print blankets. All of the blanket artifacts examined in this study had an outer cover and a lining made of fabric that used cotton thread for the warp and wool thread for the weft. Two kinds of wool were found in the weft thread in the outer covers: fat-tailed sheep hair from China and goat hair for carpets from the Hebei province, China. Records show that "blankets with painted tiger patterns" were imported from Russia, and the imported blankets were from Russia and China. The outer cover can be categorized into six types, and the lining into three types depending on the weave and direction of the thread twist. The hem facing can be divided into four types. The lining and outer cover use the full width of the fabric, which was woven in wide widths of 135 cm or wider. The tiger pattern on the blanket was made by stenciling. The stencil design of the body and tail of the tiger were placed on a red blanket to be painted in white, and then the background color of the tiger, which is yellow, would be painted over the white, and then black stripes would be added. The pattern of the tiger varies, which shows that the blankets were made by various craftspeople. The pattern of the tiger print blanket is usually of a tiger lying down, but there were tiger print blankets with a tiger standing up. The pattern of the tiger grew smaller over time, and flower patterns were added in the background. Decorative elements were gradually added to the tiger print blanket patterns, but its function as a palanquin cover became lost. By taking the features of tiger print blankets into consideration, it can be assumed that there are imported pieces among the remaining pieces, and were produced in various places because it was popular at that time.