• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.776-783
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to identify the reasonable gathering conditions as consider of effect of gathering and variation of silhouette made by gathering conditions. The experimental design consists of four factorial design: (1) three kinds of different weight and different thickness fabrics (2) three kinds of different stitch densities (3) five kinds of different ratio of gathers (4) three kinds of different angles. Therefore one hundred thirty five (135) samples were made. Data analysis utilize SPSS WIN 10.0 Package. The results of this study were as follows: 1. In the aspect of fabrics, it is shown the visual propriety that it is as thin as the small stitch, and as thick as the big stitch. 2. As stitch densities, it shows the different stabilized nodes. 3. In the aspect of ratio of gathers, it is shown the visual propriety that a few was small stitches, which help formations of nodes, and a lot were big stitches, which help increased the effect of gather. 4. In the aspect of angle of bias, the drape appearance was excellent as a sample of cutting by 0 angle(0$^{\circ}$) of bias. The big stitches that help formations of stabilized nodes, and a case of cutting by 45 angle(45$^{\circ}$) of bias was small stitch.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.33-40
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• 2005

Gathering is method used to control fullness along a seam line. The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationship between the quantitative research and qualitative method; the effect of gather and the types of gather drape. The experimental design consists of four factors: (l) three kinds of different weight and thickness of fabrics (2) three kinds of stitch densities (3) five kinds of ratio of gathers (4) three kinds of grain directions. Therefore one hundred thirty five (135) samples were made. And utilized SPSS WIN 10.0 Package in data analysis. The results of this study were as follows; First, after frequency analysis, side height, hem line width, node depth, node count, node width accorded with these result data recording. Second, after correlation analysis, side height related with front statements. Side height and entire visual was negative correlation. Hem line width, node depth, node count with section statements was negative correlation but node width at section statements was positive correlation. Third, after $k^2$ analysis, front picture parts getting excellent evaluation were 1st side height, 3rd hem line width, 4th node depth, 3rd node count, 3rd node width. And section illustration parts getting excellent evaluation were 4th side height, 1st hem line width, 2nd node depth, 3rd node count, 4th node width.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.11
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• pp.1399-1409
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to analyze the shape of gathered skirts using a three-dimensional measurement system. And in this experiment, I try to accumulate three-dimensional data of wearing model and to figure out analyzing method made by shape of clothes. The experimental design consists of two factorial designs. I set up three different kinds of fabrics, ratio of gathers. Therefore nine samples were made. The instrument and tools for three-dimensional measurement was whole body 3D scanner. Analysis program used in experiment is RapidForm 2004 PP1 and Pattern Design 2000. Data analysis utilizes SPSS WIN 10.0 Package. T-test to effect an inspection of evidence, there was difference about measurement times. One-way ANOVA to analysis effect of gather made by gathering conditions. The following results were obtained; 1. As a result of inspecting an error several times using a three-dimension measurement system, convinced data was obtained. 2. At front, distribution of gap amount was larger than back. And as ratio of gathers increased, distribution of gap amount showed regularly. 3. After analyzing horizontal sectional figure of skirts, as a height of skirt changed from waist to the bottom of skirts, the results showed as follows. While section width, section thickness, node width, node depth increased, node count decreased. 4. With the horizontal section levels of gather skirt, the silhouette on middle hip section was similar with the silhouette of body line. And as ratio of gathers around hip section increased, nodes showed regularly. At the bottom of skirts showed different nodes by different gathering condition.