• 감성과학
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.65-76
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• 2019

현재 텍스타일 분야는 활용 범위가 확장됨에 따라 감성과 같은 비물질적인 가치에 관해 관심을 두는 연구들이 증가하는 추세를 보인다. 본 연구의 궁극적인 목적은 디지털 크래프트를 적용한 텍스타일 디자인의 감성적 의의에 초점을 맞추어 실증 연구를 통해 디지털 크래프트를 적용한 감성적 텍스타일 디자인의 생성 가능성 및 활용방안을 제안하는 것이다. 본 연구에서 개발한 주관적 평가 스케일을 통해 측정한 평가결과를 바탕으로 디지털 기술을 적용한 텍스타일 디자인과 디지털 크래프트를 적용한 텍스타일 디자인의 차이를 비교하여 통계적으로 의미가 있는지를 검증하기 위한 실증 연구를 진행하였다. 실험 결과, 디지털 크래프트를 적용한 텍스타일 디자인 작품에 대한 감성 생성 가능성과 활용방안에 대한 몇 가지 의미 있는 시사점을 도출할 수 있었다. 첫째, 에스닉한 감성은 유의한 수준은 아니지만 3번의 비교 분석에서 모두 증가하였다. 둘째, 모던과 클래식한 감성은 모두 감소하였다. 셋째, 디지털 텍스타일 머신과 디지털 텍스타일 머신과 크래프트의 비교 분석에서 펀한 감성이 유의한 차이로 증가함을 보였다. 넷째, 3D 프린팅과 3D 프린팅과 크래프트의 비교분석에서 엘레강스가 유의미하게 증가하였다. 따라서 디지털 크래프트를 적용한 텍스타일 디자인은 사용한 디지털 기술 방식에 따라 에스닉, 펀, 엘레강스한 감성의 전달이 가능할 것으로 예측된다. 본 연구를 통해 도출한 결과를 텍스타일 디자인 개발과 생산 단계에서 적절하게 사용한다면 감성적 텍스타일 디자인의 개발을 위해 효과적으로 작용할 수 있을 것이다. 또한, 본 연구의 결과는 디지털 크래프트를 통한 감성적 텍스타일 디자인에 대해 객관적인 자료를 제공함으로써 향후 학계뿐만 아니라 실무에도 중요한 시사점을 제공해 줄 수 있을 것이라 기대한다.

• 패션정보와 기술
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• 제4권
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• pp.39-43
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• 2007

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.11-27
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to develop highly valued fashion cultural items using Korean face and human images to enhance global competition. The methods of this study include: historical study on the face/human images which appear on the dress; design by stage according to Lamb & Kallal's apparel design process; development of products using digital textile printing technology; and case study by objective evaluation through Grant's alpha-beta model. The procedure and the results of this study are as follows: First, in the problem identification stage, the need to develop fashion cultural products of Korean face/human images which are symbolic, aesthetic, and functional was recognized in order to enhance global competition. Second, in the preliminary idea stage, the fashion cultural products and the components that meet the above 3 standards for design were determined and first design was drawn up. The source of the design was extrapolated from face/human images, which appeared on the murals of the ancient Korea, the portraits and custom paintings from the Chosun Dynasty. From these images, a total of 7 design series of T-shirts with an "ULGUL" logo, scarves, and artwalls were developed using "obangsaek" which are five Korean traditional colors including red, blue, black. white, and yellow on cottons and silks. Third, in the design refinement stage, based on the preference survey, more varying design methods were used to develop 25 new designs. Fourth, in prototype development stage, based on the preference survey conducted on fashion professionals and general public from the previous stage, which showed preference for T-shirts and scarves, 3 designs on T-shirts and 2 designs on scarves were printed and produced using the DTP (Digital Textile Printing). Fifth, in the evaluation stage, Grant's alpha-beta model was used to perform comparative evaluation on the symbolic, aesthetic, and functional criteria of the new designs over the existing ones. The new designs received excellent results in all three criteria and a special recognition was given to symbolism of the new designs.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.229-235
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• 2014

This study conducted a research on burn-out printing convergence technology for cellulose blend knit fabrics. Printing technology, which forms color pattern on the fabric, can be generally classified into four according to printer or printing method, e.g. screen printing, roller printing, rotary printing, digital printing. However, these printing methods are flat in design or pattern, which have limitation to overcome monotonousness of fabric, so that recently burn-out process method, which expresses three-dimensional pattern effect by treating chemical on the surface of fabric as the method to appeal its esthetics to the customers. Particularly, in case of cellulose/polyester composite material, first, it is proceeded in 2 processes, by dyeing cellulose or polyester fabric and burning out cellulose fabric, in this process, due to pollution caused by disperse dye migration, color of polyester fabric part could be discolored, which has high falt risk. This research considered coloring burn-out technique, which simultaneously proceed dyeing and burn-out by reducing dyeing and burn-out process to 1 stage, which were proceeded in 2 stages previously. As the research result, it was confirmed that reasonable depth of roller was 0.04~0.06mm in roller printing process, heat treatment condition of burn-out far-infrared radiation was $185^{\circ}C{\times}30m/min$. Color fastness to washing was confirmed to be 4-5 grade, color fastness to rubbing, 3-4 grade, color fastness to light, 4 grade. Also, it was confirmed that energy reduction effect appeared 38.19%, in case of energy cost per yard compared to the existing production, also, 19.74%, in case of production cost.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.790-798
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• 2021

With digital technology innovation, increased data access and mobile network use by consumers, products and services are changing toward pursuing differentiated values for personalization, and personalized markets are rapidly emerging in the fashion industry. This study aims to identify trends in digital customized automation technology by deriving types of digital customizing and analyzing cases by type, and to present directions for the development of digital customizing processes and the use of technology in the future. As a research method, a literature study for a theoretical background, a case study for classification and analysis of types was conducted. The results of the study are as follows. The types of digital customizing can be classified into three types: 'cooperative customization', 'selective composition and combination', 'transparent suggestion', and automation technologies shown in each type include 3D printing, 3D virtual clothing, robot mannequin, human automatic measurement program, AR-based fitting service, big data, and AI-based curation function. With the development of digital automation technology, the fashion industry environment is also changing from existing manufacturing-oriented to consumer-oriented, and the production process is rapidly changing with IT and artificial intelligence-based automation technology. The results of this study hope that digital customized automation technology will meet various needs of personalization and customization and present the future direction of digital fashion technology, where fashion brands will expand based on the spread of digital technology.

• 한국산학기술학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국산학기술학회 2006년도 춘계학술발표논문집
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• pp.580-581
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• 2006

본 연구의 목적은 DTP 폐수를 나노여과막으로 여과하여 처리하는 공정에서 발생하는 농축수를 처리하는 공정의 개발에 있다. 특히 DTP 장치의 특성상 발생 폐수를 별도의 폐수처리장으로 수집, 이동 하지 않고 현장에서 처리하는 소규모 패키지 시스템을 개발하고자 하였다. 아런 목표를 달성하기 위해 효율적인 여과공정인 나노여과를 적용하였고, 이 때 발생하는 농축수는 오존이나 과산화수소와 같은 산화제를 이용하여 일부 처리하고 나머지는 감압농축 및 감량화를 농한 농축수 관리 방안을 연구 하였다.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.263-273
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• 2011

Digital textile printing(DTP) technology made considerable advances in recent years. In this study, a pre-treatment agent has been prepared for the better coloration of digital textile printing. The ink formulation contained three kinds of 5g thickener (CMC, Sodium alginate, Dextrin), 25g urea, 5g sodium carbonate, and 465g distilled water. The optimal sharpness of outline was found in the 1-3% concentration of the pre-treating agent with a viscosity of 10-15 cSt. Even if the color difference between untreated and treated samples was not apparent in the printing step, the color appearance increased after steaming. The color appearance of cyan, magenta, yellow, black reactive colorants increased in the order of CMC>Sodium alginate>Dextrin. Wash fastness to shade change and staining for the treated samples were 4-5 rating, while untreated sample was 1-2 rating. Also, the pre-treated sample with 1:1 mixtures had 4-5 rating. Both dry and wet rubbing fastness to shade change and staining were excellent in the treated samples, whereas rubbing fastness of untreated sample was 1-2 rating. With exception of 3 rating to black color, light fastness properties were 4 rating for the remaining three colors in the regardless of treatment condition and mixing of pre-treating agents. Dry cleaning fastness of all samples were also 4-5 rating irrespective of treatment condition and mixing of pre-treating agents.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제27권4호
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• pp.318-326
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• 2015

A pre-treatment process is essential for getting high quality of digital textile printing(DTP). In this study, we have studied three kinds of carrageenan polymer(k-, ${\lambda}$-, i-Carrageenan) as a pre-treatment thickening agent for the first time. Alginate polymer was also examined and its results were compared with that of the three kinds of carrageenan polymer. To confirm the performance of each thickening agent, we examined for a sharpness, color strength and fastness(washing, rub, light). The result showed that ${\lambda}$-Carrageenan has superior property in sharpness with low viscosity and i-Carrageenan was excellent in the color strength among the pre-treatment agents. Washing fastness to color change and staining for the all samples were 4 or 4-5 grade. Both dry and wet rubbing fastness of the samples were 4-5 grade. However, ${\lambda}$-Carrageenan coated sample has the lowest grade in light fastness. As a result, we found the possibility of carrageenan polymer as pre-treatment agent.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.412-423
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• 2016

This paper explores the possibility, and suggests an experimental procedure, of industrial application of traditional textile design techniques, such as hand silkprinting and natural dyeing. Theoretical and traditional background of this study is William Morris and his followers' Arts and Crafts Movement from the late 19th century to the early 20th century, which laid the philosophical as well as technical foundations of modern textile design tradition. Based on the basic understanding of the design philosophy, and starting from the design techniques of Morris and his successors, I made some experimental and systematic color plans reflecting and exploiting the physical traits and structure of jacquard woven silk material fabrics. And I applied hand silkscreen printing techniques on the jacquard silk fabrics of my own making, while testing various color combinations of natural dyes. After finishing final processing of design samples, I could get textile design products which met the criteria of my original expectation, i.e., eco-friendly and aesthetic design samples that can also be produced in automatized mass production system of contemporary textile industry. The conclusion of this experimental study is that I can expect the natural dyeing techniques, jacquard silk fabrics design techniques, silkprinting techniques, and the basic processes used in this study to be safely applied for contemporary commercial textile industry utilizing automatized silkscreen printing system and digital printing devices.

• 청정기술
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.169-178
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• 2001

섬유염색은 전 세계적으로 매우 큰 시장이나, 염료를 사용하여 섬유염색을 수행하는 기존 인쇄 공정의 경우 염료의 손실 및 환경오염의 문제점을 갖고 있다. 기존 공정들의 경우 섬유 인쇄 시 전처리 및 후처리 공정이 필요하고 이들 공정에서 폐수가 발생하게 된다. 이런 문제점들의 해결방안으로 전처리 및 후처리 공정이 필요없고 잉크를 효율적으로 사용할 수 있는 잉크제트 프린팅 기법을 섬유염색 기술에 적용하려는 노력이 진행중이다. 섬유인쇄를 위해 잉크제트 프린터를 사용할 경우 안료를 사용하기 때문에 잉크는 액체 상에 고체입자가 분산되어 있는 서스펜션 상태로 존재한다. 분자역학 모사 기법과 유사한 Stokesian 역학 모사 방법을 사용한 전산모사를 통해 외부에서 가해진 압력구배에 의해 노즐 관에 흐르는 분산잉크 중의 입자 분포 및 속도 분포 변화를 살펴보았다. 전산모사결과 입자의 부피분율이 낮을수록, 평균 무차원 서스펜션 속도가 낮을수록, 노즐 관과 입자 크기 사이의 비(H/a)가 클수록 입자들의 분포가 상당히 균일한 것으로 나타났다. 따라서 잉크제트 프린팅 기법을 사용하여 섬유인쇄를 수행하는 경우, 노즐 관에의 유속을 작게 하고 노즐 관과 입자 사이의 크기 비를 크게 해야 균일한 인쇄 성능을 얻을 수 있을 것으로 판단된다.