• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.1-9
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• 2007

In recent years, the application of digital textile printing has increased. The benefits of using this method include the ease of sampling and the production of printed textiles. However, the production process of digital textile printing differs from that of conventional printing. For successful digital textile printing by ink-jet technology, the pretreatment of fabrics is very important in order to overcome the following problems. Low viscosity ink can spread easily on the textile surface leading to poor resolution. As a result, the combination of ink and pretreatment chemicals is still impractical and consequently most fabrics used in digital textile printing will require a pre treated coating in order to prevent the ink colours from bleeding on the fabric. Research presented in this paper shows some preliminary attempts to establish the relationship between the pre treatment and the digital textile printing quality. Various cotton fabrics were treated with pre treatment agents including ingredients like thickener, alkali and humectant, and then ink spread effect and colour yield of printed fabrics by reactive ink were analysed by using an optical microscope and K/S value. The results show that digital textile printing quality on cotton fabrics can be optimized with appropriate pre treatments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.2
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• pp.45-54
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• 2013

With the development of digital technology, clothes of unique textiles using the digital printing techniques have appeared as a creative trend in textile design. The development of digital textile printing technology has allowed the fashion industry to utilize it as an expressive method of a surrealist trend in current fashion designs, and so it is necessary to understand and study this phenomenon. The present study is an attempt to understand this modern fashion phenomena from an artistic perspective by looking at textile designs that applied actual images to textiles, so that this trend in fashion design can be better understood. In this context, this study aims to examine characteristics and expressive techniques of d$\acute{e}$paysement, automatisme associated with digital textile printing by using actual images among surrealist expressions, and to investigate creative expressions of textile design freely expressing the visual boundary between reality and surrealism with the development of digital technology. For research methods, we reviewed technical texts and previous studies related to our research topic for theoretical exploration and investigated the Internet data and used them for basic data. In the case study, we came up with the characteristics and meanings by classifying fashion design cases using digital textile printing techniques according to expressive techniques of surrealist d$\acute{e}$paysement, automatisme. Details of this study are as follows: First, it investigates the definition and expressive characteristics of d$\acute{e}$paysement, automatisme of the surrealist expression for its theoretical understanding. Second, it comes up with the characteristics by analyzing the digital textile cases from the perspective of d$\acute{e}$paysement, automatisme. Third, it deduces the expressive methods and characteristics of digital textile printing from a the perspective of surrealist d$\acute{e}$paysement, automatisme based on the resulting characteristics. The conclusions show that d$\acute{e}$paysement, automatisme, which consists of improvisation and coincidence, maximized the mysterious images of derealisation and mysterious primitive images. These things emphasized the characteristics of maximization of images, derealisation, and rationalization of irrationalism.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 2007.11a
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• pp.371-372
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• 2007

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.202-209
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• 2021

Natural dyes are more expensive than synthetic dyes and the dyeing process, which is mainly immersion of dye, is complicated. For this reason, relatively small-scale production methods were predominant. However, awareness and interest in environmental sustainability is rising globally, and the use of synthetic dyes causes various environmental problems such as wastewater and CO₂ emission, so the consumption of natural dyes is increasing. In addition, interest in digital textile printing, an eco-friendly dyeing method that can produce products of various designs and uses less water, is growing. In this study, natural indigo dye (Indigofera tinctoria) was used as a raw material for Digital Textile Printing ink, and ¹⁴C (Biocarbon) present in it was measured to confirm whether it was derived from natural ingredients. The performance was confirmed by testing the pH, viscosity, electrical conductivity, surface tension, and particle size analysis of natural indigo ink. In addition, the performance of natural indigo DTP ink and printing fabric was evaluated by inspecting the change in color fastness and corresponding index substances before and after digital printing with natural indigo DTP ink on textiles. Through this, the possibility of commercialization of DTP ink and printing fabric using natural indigo was confirmed.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.282-291
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• 2010

Digital textile printing(DTP) is becoming more important because the production trend of textile printing goods is adapting to small-lot multiple items. Recently enhanced use of DTP is closely connected with production of high value-added products in fashion industry, which is also appropriate for quick response system(QRS). Quality of DTP depends on pre-treatment, after-treatment, ink, media, printer, etc. One of these parameters, Selection of good media is very important to obtain high quality of DTP products. Especially, the effects of media on printing quality of DTP according to yarn twist and structure of knitting fabric were examined in this study. Two types of yarn twist of 830 t.p.m and 1630 t.p.m for cotton knit were used and five types of media structures were knitted with single circular knitting machine. First, MIU, MMD, SMD's values are closely related with surface roughness of sample as well as printing quality. The hard twist samples were higher values than normal twist samples in the same media structure. In case of SMD, the values increased from plain to corduroy types. Second, aspect of line sharpness, line area, and line width values of hard twist samples decreased from plain to corduroy than those of normal twist samples. Third, line deviation values of hard twist samples, blurriness of line, also decreased than those of normal twist samples.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.17 no.6 s.85
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• pp.20-26
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• 2005

For developing digital printing textiles, special pretreatment processes are necessary. These processes include developing formulation of coating agent and coating processes. The pretreatment were investigated with the variation concentration of anti-migration agent, fixation chemical etc.. The printing qualities according to pretreatment conditions were studied with color yield, printed capital letter sharpness and washing fastness. It was observed that the concentration of anti-migration agent, fixation agent(alkali) was closely related to printing qualities. For developing industrial technology of cellulosic digital printing textiles, optimum viscosity of pretreatment coating formulation is very important factor.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.67-84
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• 2019

Since the early 2000s, various fashion design products that use 3D printing technology have constantly been introduced to the fashion industry. However, given the nature of 3D printing technology, the flexible characteristics of material of textile fabrics is yet to be achieved. The aim of this study is to develop the optimal design conditions for production of flexible and elastic 3D printing fabric structure based on plain weave, which is the basic structure in fabric weaving using SLS 3D printing technology. As a the result this study aims to utilize appropriate design conditions as basic data for future study of flexible fashion product design such as textile material. Weaving structural design using 3D printing is based on the basic plain weave, and the warp & weft thickness of 4mm, 3mm, 2mm, 1.5mm, 1mm, and 0.7mm as expressed in Rhino 6.0 CAD software program for making a 3D model of size $1800mm{\times}180mm$ each. The completed 3D digital design work was then applied to the EOS SLS Machine through Maker ware, a program for 3D printer output, using polyamide 12 material which has a rigid durability strength, and the final results obtained through bending flexibility tests. In conclusion, when designing the fabric structure design in 3D printing using SLS method through application of polyamide 12 material, the thickness of 1 mm presented the optimal condition in order to design a durable digital textile structure with flexibility and elasticity of the 3D printing result.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.56-70
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to develop the high-value-added fashion cultural products with Korean image for the enhancement of global competitiveness. For this purpose, theoretical examination of the unique beauty of Korea and Korean image was first performed. Especially, characteristics of Korean traditional botanic patterns were investigated with LOHAS(Lifestyles of Health and Sustainability) philosophy which is the focus of the current design trend. Along with the above, the environmentally-friendly digital textile printing technology and Korean traditional botanic patterns were used to produce creative and globally-competitive fashion cultural products. Finally, a series of fashion cultural products were developed such as table runner, table mat and bedclothes.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.89-98
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• 2009

Computer development and new printing technology allow us to express a new type of digital textile designs those were not possible in the past. In this study, watercolor overlaying effect of various colors was tried using airbrush tool in Photoshop program. Photoshop program is a powerful graphic tool and can be used in textile design area to generate various types of designs. Woven texture was also applied to the design to give yarn dyed effects or rich appearance. Photoshop program was also used to develop woven texture without the help of the professional textile CAD. Photoshop channels enables the designers to apply various textures to the image. Plain weave and houndstooth were applied in this study. Colorways of the developed designs having watercolor effect and woven texture by applying Photoshop color adjustment function. Quick and simultaneous changes of colors were possible using this method. The developed textile designs were printed by transfer DTP. Successful textile design prints were expressed and showed watercolor overlaying effect and woven texture. The printed textiles show a little brighter color, and therefore, sample printing is recommendable in case of color sensitive production.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.43-54
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• 2011

Digital Textile Printing(DTP) is appropriate for quick response system(QRS) and is closely connected with high value added fashion industry. Fashion products of high price are mainly silk and cotton. For high quality DTP products, it is important to optimize the parameters of media, pre and after-treatment, ink, printer, etc. DTP for these two fiber materials is also accompanied certainly with steaming as after-treatment process for coloration. Role of steam is like water in exhaustion dyeing. Steam can diffuse dye or ink in printing paste to fiber. Quality of DTP products depend on after-treatment processes such as steaming, washing, drying. Current production amount of DTP is smaller than one of conventional textile printing. However conventional after-treatment system has been using so far. This is mismatched with DTP in terms of process efficiency, spot work of small lot, quality control. In this study, continuous after-treatment system has been suitably designed for DTP that washing and drying are available after steaming. So, It is possible to improve efficiency of DTP process. Especially, the effects of after-treatment process, such as temperature of heat drum, steaming time on printability, color difference, color fastness were examined. Two types of samples(cotton knit and silk fabrics) were used. The results were obtained as follows : First, there is no a wide difference between the K/S values of cotton and silk treated with continuous after-treatment system and those of sample treated with conventional printing after-treatment method. So it is more effective to use the continuous after-treatment system than conventional printing after-treatment system in case of the daily throughput of 1,000 yards below. Second, after continuous after-treatment for DTP, K/S values were increased and lightness($L^*$) values were decreased. ${\Delta}E$ values were below 2.3. Third, DTP samples treated with continuous after-treatment system were tested for fastness(washing, light, rubbing). Grades of fastness(washing, light, rubbing) were above 3 grade.