권호 표지

Journal of the Korean Society of Costume (복식)

The Korean Society of Costume

  • Bimonthly
  • /
  • 1229-6880(pISSN)
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  • 2287-7827(eISSN)

Domain

  • Culture/Arts/Sports ＞ Clothing Design
  • Human Ecology ＞ Clothing

Aim & Scope

한국복식학회 학술지 ‘服飾’은 복식전공분야의 학문적 교류를 통한 복식학 분야의 발전에 이바지함을 그 목적으로 하고 있습니다. 즉 각 전공분야의 정보를 신속하게 공유하여 복식 산업발전에 기여하며 패션산업 현장에서의 디자인을 비롯한 여러 분야의 연구에 실질적인 도움을 주고자 합니다. ‘服飾’ 학술지에는 복식사, 복식미학 및 패션디자인, 패션마케팅, 및 심리, 의복구성 및 텍스타일, 복식일반을 비롯한 복식 전반에 걸친 학자들의 연구 성과를 싣고 있습니다. ‘服飾’은 2003년부터 한국연구재단 등재학술지로 지정되었으며, 지금까지 연 10회 발행되던 학술지를 게재논문의 질적 향상을 위하여 2020년부터는 연 6회 발행하고 있습니다. 또한 논문 Full-Text등을 전산화하여 인터넷에서도 검색이 가능한 정보화사업을 하고 있습니다. The purpose of the Journal of the Korean Society of Costume (JKSC), the academic journal of the Korean Society of Costume (KSC), is to contribute to the development and diversity of the study of costume by becoming a means to scholarly exchange. In other words, the goal is to contribute to the development of the fashion industry and to give practical assistance to various design-related research by prompt exchange of information from the various fields of costume studies. JKSC covers a broad spectrum of research outputs from the field of costume studies, such as the history of costume, dress aesthetics, fashion design, fashion marketing, psychology, clothing construction, and textiles. First published in 1977, JKSC has been listed on the Korean Citation Index (KCI) by the National Research Foundation of Korea (NRF) since 2003. Once published as frequently as 10 times per year, the JKSC has, since 2020, been published six times per year in order to better promote the qualitative improvement of its academic papers. KSC is now in the process of informatizing a system to provide a range of online services, while its full-text electronic resources are already available online.

http://onkjournal.co.kr/sobis/ksc.jsp KSCI KCI

Volume 56 Issue 5 Serial No. 104

  1. Kan Ho-Sup;Jho Eun-Joo 1
    PDF KSCI
    The result of this study can be summarized as follows. First, the result of the examination about the theoretical background of the monochrome was influenced by the minimalism and modernism, and consequently the abstract expressionism which is the main trend of the modern painting was formed basing upon the plane feature and unicolor character, and it was recognized that the custom of the plane feature was implied into the monochrome. Second, the aesthetic characteristics such as the beauty of body, beauty of simplicity, beauty of nature, beauty tradition, and beauty whole of the Korean monochrome paintings in 1970s were expressed in the modern fashion as follows. The beauty of body can be told as the dress which exposes the body or See-through look in the modern fashion. The beauty of simplicity is expressed as the most simple and non-decorating minimalism element. The beauty of nature is expressed by using the natural and convenient color without any artificiality. The beauty of tradition is expressed in the Han-bok natural white material. The beauty of whole is easily expressed by using repeated print, partition or overall harmonized beauty.
  2. Park Hee-Young;Lee Hyo-Jin 13
    PDF KSCI
    The object of this study lies on classifying the size, which is mostly favored in Korea where the wedding dress is usually regarded as an article for rent, and on suggesting the range of sleeve design and that of neck line of bodice. For that, I extracted the average size by analyzing and researching the standard size of actual bodice from real wedding dress manufacturing company. According to the result of the research I named the standard size of Korean wedding dress for rent as 'WM' which has the girth of 88cm and the waist measure of 69cm. Based on the size 'WM', I also named the size 'WS' which has the girth of 82cm with extra length of 6cm up and down and the waist measure of 64cm with extra length of 5cm, and the size 'WL' which has the girth of 94cm and the waist measure of 74cm with same extra length as the size 'WS'. The extra space for the inseam of the back is 3 inches for left and right for all sizes and the mark of body size is standardized as 'girth-waist measure'. After that, I suggested the design types of sleeves and neck line of bodice which defined as its size by classifying the bodice of wedding dress based on its size. Generally the neck line of the tank top style has the widest range of wearable size, and the high neck line and bateau neck line types have the narrowest range. And the sleeveless type has the widest range of wearable size while the raglan type has the narrowest one.
  3. Kim Ji-Young;Kim Young-In 29
    PDF KSCI
    The purpose of this study is to examine a unique characteristic of the colors of the costumes in Korean basic culture in the aim of seeking the characteristics and the conceptual meanings of colors found in the majority’s culture. The scope of the basic culture was divided into folk belief, folk game and folk play. Within these limits, the colors of the dress, accessories, instruments were extracted by comparing with the naked eye in NCS Color System. For the analysis of hue and tone, the secondary dimensional analysis using NCS color system and the three-dimensional analysis using the software, COLOR 3D Version 2.0, were done. The result of this investigation is that the colors of the costume in the Korean basic culture are white, gray and black of achromatic color and yellow, yellowish red and purplish blue. This confirms that the colors based on Five-elements color are becoming the basis too basic culture. And Arche-pattern, which is a characteristic commonly found in the Korean traditional society, was shown as a characteristic of color. The colors of the costumes in Korean basic culture are uniquely adopted by the Korean civilians according to their religious and philosophical living standard. This study is meaningful in seeking a root for the formation of their unique color culture.
  4. Lee Young-Sun;Choy Hyon-Sook 44
    PDF KSCI
    Dolls which were recognized as children's toys are recently also recognized as one of the cultural products of adult's hobby. Thus this research is about dolls' fashion and the possibility of their industrial expansion. Moreover, the object of the research is to develop and manufacture high quality fashion doll products in Korea which are mostly imported from foreign countries. The research studied the origin and the path of the development of fashion dolls with the history of clothing and special books for dolls. By organizing the character and the fashion of dolls' costumes, the research has a meaning for not only to make an academic approach of dolls' costumes which was insufficient in Korea but also to provide useful information to toy enterprises. The conclusion of this research is as followed. First, dolls have a lot of possibilities to be developed as a high value added cultural product industry by emerging from their children's toy image. Second, since costumes of dolls also have a trend, it is necessary to develop products with the trend to satisfy customer's willing. Third, organization of both the books about the dolls' costumes and the information for their DIY is urgently needed for the domestic fashion doll manias. Forth, the necessity to scheme the expansion of fancy industry has been raise by using dolls' characterization and fashion. Fifth, the researcher who has researched the above necessities has manufactured 8 pieces of dolls' costumes and provided the actual solutions to the each point of the discussions. In sum, I suggest expanding the scope of both research subject and product manufacturing of the research results and also recommend for further researches to develop the products which consumers want.
  5. Kim Jeong-Hee 59
    PDF KSCI
    The purpose of this study is to investigate the skin type of $20{\sim}30’s$ women that use skin type test paper of cosmetic companies and usual using condition for the cosmetics. The result is as follows; The research target is $20{\sim}30’s$ woman in Seoul area, around capital city area and Geonra province, we surveyed the difference among the group, after dividing the groups with job, monthly income. As the result of research on the usual using cosmetics and cleansing products, $20{\sim}30’s$ woman mostly have toilet water, lotion and foam type cleansing product and use them. As the result of consciousness of skin type combination skin type is 46.1%, dry skin type is 23%, oily skin type is 15%, sensitive skin type is 9%, normal skin type is 7%. To compare results of skin type test paper of cosmetics companies with consciousness of skin type, result of skin type test paper of cosmetics companies was different consciousness of skin type. The result of skin type test paper of B company is same as consciousness of skin type is 31.2% and this result among cosmetics companies was appeared high ratio. Among the results from 3 companies, the rate that all result for 1 person's skin type are accord, is just 8%. 2 companies among them have matching rate of 42%. Most of all, each results of skin type test paper of cosmetics companies was appeared difference. This result show the problem of objectivity about skin type test paper of cosmetics companies that they using it.
  6. Kim Zang-Mi;Park Hye-Won 75
    PDF KSCI
    The conception of uniform is changing from function and economical efficiency of the past to symbolism and aesthetic sense So, in such a management strategical point of view as enterprises' PR, scouting talent, organization revitalization etc, this is required to settle uniform culture which is proper to each enterprise and design development. The purpose of this thesis is, first, to study to help distribution enterprises' CI or PR by examining the present condition of uniform design in domestic fashion distribution enterprise and planning uniform design on the base of real case and finally making a real thing in person. Second is to suggest to fashion enterprise security of competitive ability of uniform-producing enterprise by developing article design of worth. Third is to present academic area with how to do design education in a wide range not based on trend article development. Following is how and what to study to carry out these purposes. Details about necessity and how and what to study are in an introduction, the conception of uniform in theory through precedential records examination in chapter 2, the present condition of uniform design based on Changwon city in chapter 3, planning uniform design and making a real thing suitable for F enterprise in chapter 4, and the conclusion is in chapter 5. Through this study, I became to know that uniform in distribution enterprise who treats visitors face to face is very important. I supply material and information concluded from this study to uniform industry and hope this will be helpful in developing uniform. It is significant in that this study as being related with enlarged uniform and enterprise, beyond such a uniform area as school uniform and hospital one, expanded the study range of clothing. I already tell you that this study is based on visual expression of uniform and wearer's feeling in clothes is not included.
  7. Lee Min-Sun 89
    PDF KSCI
    The purpose of this study is to explain how a power group in a society forms features of sexuality in dress. As for the research methodology, first, historical research was undertaken to study in socioeconomic context in which sexuality has been formed and transformed. Second, demonstrative studies on sexual-image styles were undertaken through the analysis of pictures and photos. Third, analysis of the relationship between the power and sexuality in dress was done by literature research. Masculinity in dress, such as simplicity and concealment, corresponds to the attributes of the viewer, and femininity in dress, such as decoration and exposure, corresponds to the attributes of the viewee. Power struggle is the complex process of forming of the viewer-viewee relationship. The one who grasps the power becomes the viewer. In the shift from the Industrial Society to the Information and Technology Society, powers are horizontally spread over the society and the stereotype of sexuality in both women's and men's dress is fading out. In the field of design, standards and certainty described by absolute power are losing their importance. The 'chaotic' view of a world filled with mutual exchange of masculinity and femininity and uncertainty of sexuality will be sure to be a dominant trend in fashion.
  8. Lee Yhe-Young 105
    PDF KSCI
    The purpose of this research was to understand the process of American women's adoption of knickerbockers from the mid-nineteenth to the early twentieth century. Articles and advertisements related to women's knickerbockers found from The New York Times were used as primary sources. Before 1920, women wore knickerbockers when they participated in sports including gymnasium, bicycling, and swimming. Knickerbockers were mostly worn with overskirts when women appeared in the public. Therefore, knickerbockers were categorized as underwear in the advertisements until the late 1910s. However, knickerbockers were even worn on the streets and in offices after American women gained suffrage in 1920. As more women adopted knickerbockers during the 1920s, the public criticisms and regulations on women's knickerbockers intensified. However, the articles on women's knickerbockers gradually disappeared from The New York Times, as they went out of fashion by the end of the 1920s. Considering the social situation and the change in womanhood during the period, I concluded that American women's adoption process of knickerbockers reflected the increase in women's mobility, and the change in gender roles and the definition of femininity.
  9. Choi Mi-Young;Shim Young-Wan;Syn Hye-Young 118
    PDF KSCI
    Color is one of the most effective factor in visual aspect influencing consumer's choice. However, the color preference varies as time passes, society changes, new culture develops, that is variable in its nature. And the underlying meaning or accompanying color image differs in every area. We believe the study on the color preference is meaningful, especially on BRICs market, recently gathering attentions for their market competitiveness and growth potential. For this research, data collected from 5 countries(including Korea) by 1:1 interview during 3 weeks in Aug. 2005. Usable data from 923 adult urban residents were used for final data analysis. Color chart for research was categorized by using COS Color System into KS standard color 10grades plus 1 neutral, with 5 grades of tones. Through this empirical study, the data were analyzed by mean, ANOVA, Duncan-test of SPSS Win(ver.10.0). The result generated from this study are as follows : First, analysis through hue & tone system reveals that preference on principle colors (R, Y, G, B, P) is higher than intermediate colors and pale, light, vivid tones were preferred to dare and deep tones. Second, personal color preference is reflected in color preference in fashion items. Thus, we may conclude color preference in fashion item largely influenced by country characteristics. Third, biggest difference by country from hue analysis are neutral and PB colors. Neutral, widely preferred color in every county, more preferred in India, Russia, Brazil than China. We expect this result can be utilized as a basic material for developing BRICs market.
  10. Lee Jin-Min;Kim Min-Ja 132
    PDF KSCI
    The purpose of this study was to establish the theoretical view for the analysis of the aesthetic characteristics of dress from the viewpoint of oriental aesthetics. Also, this study examined the universality and particularity of aesthetic characteristics in Korean and Japanese women's traditional costumes. To establish the theoretical view for the aesthetic analysis of dress from the viewpoint of oriental aesthetics, this study examined the relationship between the internal spirit of human, culture and the external form of dress. Based on this consideration, the viewpoints for the analysis of dress formation were the 'Form' as the basic structure of the external formation of dress and 'the Ornamentation' as the emphasis of the artistic characteristics of dress. The common world view shared by Korea and Japan holds the thinking system that everything is created from 'not to bee(無)' to 'being(有)'. This view emphasizes the totality and circulation of energy called 'Ki(氣)'. According to this view, oriental culture has been developed by intuition and pleasure called 'Heung(興)'. Therefore, the form of the oriental culture includes ambiguity and emphasizes the total harmony. These characteristics appeared in dress as the design of ambiguity, asymmetry and concealment. The meaning of the ornamentation in oriental world was the unified harmony of diversity and the colors and patterns of oriental dress were used by the symbolic meaning of Yin-Yang & Wu-Shing (陰陽五行)s principles. On the basis of the world view of the Ki, Korean and Japanese women's traditional costumes commonly shared the aesthetic values of concealment, emptiness, and symbolism. Also, their costumes expressed the difference, especially in the ornamentation. Korean costume expressed the beauty of simplicity and naivety, and Japanese costume expressed the beauty of ornamentation and nonornamentatIon.
  11. Park Hyo-Won;Kim Yong-Sook 150
    PDF KSCI
    The purposes of this study were to identity the effects of shopping orientation and fashion propensity on imported cosmetics repurchase intention of single women. Self-administered questionnaire was used for data collection from 310 single women aged 25-34. The results were as follows: 1. The factors of shopping orientation of single women were pleasure, ostentation, economy, individuality, convenience of location, and convenience of service. And the factors of fashion propensity were fashion interest and fashion leadership. 2. Single women with higher pleasure pursuit were younger, spent pocket money and purchased imported cosmetics more. Ostentation pursuiters had higher incomes, but economy pursuiters were younger, spent pocket money and purchased imported cosmetics less. Individuality pursuiters were older, and spent more pocket money and posessed imported cosmetics more. Convenience of location pursuiters posessed more imported cosmetics, but convenience of service pursuiters were highly educated. Single women with higher fashion interest were younger, higher income and education level, and posessed imported cosmetics more. And single women with higher fashion leadership were highly educated and purchased imported cosmetics more. 3. Imported cosmetics repurchase intention were effected by pocket money, purchasing power and amount of imported cosmetics, pleasure pursuit, fashion interest positively, but economy pursuit negatively.
  12. Chun Tae-Yoo 163
    PDF KSCI
    Department store service is undergoing a rapidly changing social phenomena that is, the qualitative evaluation is getting more attention than the quantitative evaluation. Therefore, in this study, a standard has been prepared according to a service quality evaluation and the result has been analyzed to prepare major points for quality improvement. The differences in perception between department store consumers and department store employees were verified based on these factor categories. Also an attempt was made to reveal the relationship between satisfaction and service quality. When considering all the results of this study, the department store consumers and the department store employees perceived service quality differently from each other. The result is that the characteristics of the users and the suppliers reflect exactly as they are because of the characteristic of the distribution environment.