권호 표지

Journal of the Korean Society of Costume (복식)

The Korean Society of Costume

  • Bimonthly
  • /
  • 1229-6880(pISSN)
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  • 2287-7827(eISSN)

Domain

  • Culture/Arts/Sports ＞ Clothing Design
  • Human Ecology ＞ Clothing

Aim & Scope

한국복식학회 학술지 ‘服飾’은 복식전공분야의 학문적 교류를 통한 복식학 분야의 발전에 이바지함을 그 목적으로 하고 있습니다. 즉 각 전공분야의 정보를 신속하게 공유하여 복식 산업발전에 기여하며 패션산업 현장에서의 디자인을 비롯한 여러 분야의 연구에 실질적인 도움을 주고자 합니다. ‘服飾’ 학술지에는 복식사, 복식미학 및 패션디자인, 패션마케팅, 및 심리, 의복구성 및 텍스타일, 복식일반을 비롯한 복식 전반에 걸친 학자들의 연구 성과를 싣고 있습니다. ‘服飾’은 2003년부터 한국연구재단 등재학술지로 지정되었으며, 지금까지 연 10회 발행되던 학술지를 게재논문의 질적 향상을 위하여 2020년부터는 연 6회 발행하고 있습니다. 또한 논문 Full-Text등을 전산화하여 인터넷에서도 검색이 가능한 정보화사업을 하고 있습니다. The purpose of the Journal of the Korean Society of Costume (JKSC), the academic journal of the Korean Society of Costume (KSC), is to contribute to the development and diversity of the study of costume by becoming a means to scholarly exchange. In other words, the goal is to contribute to the development of the fashion industry and to give practical assistance to various design-related research by prompt exchange of information from the various fields of costume studies. JKSC covers a broad spectrum of research outputs from the field of costume studies, such as the history of costume, dress aesthetics, fashion design, fashion marketing, psychology, clothing construction, and textiles. First published in 1977, JKSC has been listed on the Korean Citation Index (KCI) by the National Research Foundation of Korea (NRF) since 2003. Once published as frequently as 10 times per year, the JKSC has, since 2020, been published six times per year in order to better promote the qualitative improvement of its academic papers. KSC is now in the process of informatizing a system to provide a range of online services, while its full-text electronic resources are already available online.

http://onkjournal.co.kr/sobis/ksc.jsp KSCI KCI

Volume 55 Issue 8 Serial No. 99

  1. Kim, Ja-Min;Ha, Ji-Soo 1
    PDF KSCI
    This study aims to find out how the deconstruction and combination of genres is being carried out in modern art and design, to look at the role of art and fashion in modern culture through a study of genre hybrid tendencies in fashion, and to reposition fashion as a tool that sensitively reflects changes in society and culture. The heightening of deconstructionism, gadgets, high technology which provide a background for the fall of all art and design styles and genres and the overlap and diffusion of different styles, is the fundamental reason behind genre hybrid. In the genre hybrids of fashion, the four characteristics of nomadism, amusement, wearability and noticeability were especially strong. As a result of studying the genre hybrids in modern fashion, I found out that the idea of wearing in fashion was made easier with the deconstruction and combination of fashion with different genres. It was also apparent that the genre hybrid phenomenon will continue in the future due to the continuous development of technology.
  2. Lee Mi-Yoen 15
    PDF KSCI
    In these days, T-shirt is not only the simple wearing goods but also the suggestive communication, which is not showed outward as well as being intended. Also, it indicates expression of contemporary sensitive living, expression of substantial oneself, and the effective commercial promotion fer advertising fashion brand and promoting the object's sale. Following the above concept, the aim of this study is to understand the outstanding tendency of ' The T-shirt one-point graphic's functions and visual image ', which is appeared after 2001 in the fashion industry's commercial aspects. The visual image's applicative rate of the T-shirt one point graphic is the following; The best applicative rate on T-shirt one- point graphic is the visual image using the mix & match technique shown 42.8 percent applicative rate. The second one is the visual image using the typography shown 38.7 percent. The third one is the visual image using the animals and plants shown 8.5 percent. The fourth one is the visual image using the person's character shown 3.8 percent. The fifth one is the visual image using the geometry shown 2.4 percent. The least one is the visual image using the cartoon character shown 1.6 percent. On the other hand, another important function of t-shirt one-point graphic is the following; 1, The essential function as t-shirt design factor. 2, The promotional function as brand image marketing and brand advertisement. 3. The communicative function as discriminative strategy of object. 4. The achievable function as value added goods.
  3. Yu Ji-Hun 30
    PDF KSCI
    The purposes of this study were to analyze the consciousness of the professors and college students about the fashion industry internship and to provide basis data which were to develop an internship program of the fashion company and university and to activate it. The whole country were classified as Seoul and Gyeonggi division, Gangwon division, Chungchung division, Yeongnam division, and Honam division for this study. As object of the questionnaire, the professors of 50 universities and 132 college students from every division were selected by stratified cluster sampling. The investigation tool for this study was composed of 95 items for two kinds of professor's and two kinds of college student's survey. The question results were analyzed by frequency analysis and variance analysis, t- test and f- test by spss 10.0. The contents of research result were as follows : First, it arranged the opinions of the college students and professors about the internship experience and execution reason, the internship application methods and execution contents, the type of preference company and worked company, the company education contents, internship evaluation and postmortem. It also proposed the roles of the academic world, fashion industry circles and government for the internship activation.
  4. Yoon Ji-Won 48
    PDF KSCI
    Foreign culture, introduced by cultural exchange, was modified and accepted into a new form and value system. Culture speaks for the characters of the period, so it is presented by the mutual actions of many factors affecting culture. Religion is the essence of human life and the source of ideas about life, the universe and existence, so they become hidden inside of the structure of culture. Dancing costumes present the process of cultural modification and acceptance more vividly than general costumes. This research shows that, among foreign cultures, it is Buddhism that most influenced Chinese dancing costume. Taoism was the Chinese native religion that played an oppositional role against Buddhism. Taoism was hidden in Chinese dancing costume in every age. Chinese dancing costume changed many times due to the import of exotic styles such as Buddhism that partially replaced the Taoistic tradition. Therefore, it is confirmed that the process of cultural importation of exotic style was different according to the social, historical, and cultural backgrounds of China during the period from the Han to the Sui and Tang dynasties.
  5. Park Sung-Sil 57
    PDF KSCI
    Mongdueui(蒙頭衣) and mongduri(蒙頭里) in the Joseon dynasty was one of women's robe. The style of Mongdueui was same as Chinese baeja(褙子 $\cdot$ vest) having non-overlapping front opening with collar, This form was conformed through the wonsam excavated baeja from tomb of South Song dynasty. The basic construction was same as Joseon dynasty's except the collar. In the early Joseon dynasty the noble women wore Jangsam(長衫) as an outer wear, the common and lower class women wore Mongdueui, and the queen and royal household we baeja. The court lady wore baeja as well as Mongdueui for funeral ceremony. The style of women's robes was classified into two categories by the literature Byungwajip(甁窩集). The first was the hongjangsam(紅長衫長) in red for noble women. The other was the mongduri for the common lady. Whangchosam the outer wear of Jeongjaeyong(呈才女伶), a professional women entertainer, having non-overlapping front opening with collar, has been examined in the painting. And it had been evolved into the shaman's clothing in the last stage of Joseon dynasty.
  6. Kim, Sun-Kyung;Cho, Hyo-Sook 73
    PDF KSCI
    Collections in the buddhist statue owned by Dr. Jong-Hm Baik(白宗欽) included 3 ancient documents and 2 wooden cylinders that showed a clear historical order. The temple and buddhist statue that these objects were belonged to were not known, however, according to the document, it could be inferred as Chunsukwaneumsang(천수관음상) created in 1322 and reformed in 1614 from the list of donator for the statue. Inside a wooden cylinder, a bundle of ivory, yellow, green, orange, and dark brown fabrics that were folded up and tided up with 5 different colored thread strands and aromatic trees and rice plant was placed on the bottom. All the fabrics were silk. Three thread strands were silk. The white and blue strands were cotton fibers as a result of analysis of IR spectrum and the microscope. According to a radioactive carbon isotope dating by accelerator mass spectroscopy, years before present was 160$\pm$40, and cablibrated ages were 1680-1890 (79.3$\%$), 1910-1960(16.1$\%$) in 95.4$\%$ probability. Accordingly, the fabrics in the buddhist statue proved to be reformed in 1614 not the original ones in 1322.
  7. Han Eun-Hee;Han Cha-Young;Ryu Song-Ok 85
    PDF KSCI
    This Study is to analyze characteristics of costume change of according to the status of character succeeding the investigation of the ceremonial costume change in historical TV dramas that The Empress Myungsung entered. For this study, the costume images among historical TV dramas, that Myungsung entered, '500 years of Chosun Dynastyv, Taewongun(1990, MBC)', 'The Glorious Dawn(1993, KBS1)', 'The Empress Myungsung(2001, KBS2)'were used: The characteristics of the costume change of main character are as follows. First, main character's costume has been increase gradually in number and item. Second, Especially in the last work,'The Empress Myungsung', the royal costume based on historical evidence in aspects of silhouette, but it didn't according to the historical costume in aspects of color and textile. Nevertheless the costume reveals the status of each person significantly. Third, the costumes of the recent historical drama appears as a optical symbol that represents historical view point and different interpretation of each drama. Therefore the costume according to the status of the character wrong from the historical point of view. Consequently, TV costume in historical drama Myungsung entered has been focused on the beauty of the screen and dramatic effect than historical viewpoint. So the costume have been to be an essential visual part by means of the symbol revealed the purpose.
  8. Byun Zee-Hyun;Kim Mi-Young 99
    PDF KSCI
    The research analyzed the clothing attitude which it follows in type of performance musical instrument and a design preference moral difference. The result which tries to observe the clothing attitude which it follows in type of performance musical instrument and a design preference moral difference, it was visible a difference little by little. When comparison it tries the design which it prefers but consequently most in type of performance musical instrument, the big difference is not born and not to be putting the difference of the preference design which it follows in type of musical instrument specific your neck line, color, and silhouette of the vocal musician or wind music performer. When seeing whole, the clothing attitude regarding a performance luck compared to considered seriously an aesthetic pursuit and a convenient characteristic and harmonious, there design preference is the clothes which have no sleeve, neckline like camisole, black and pastel color, design with lots of decorations, princess silhouette, and they prefer the fabrics which have softness to it. Now, I want to introduce restriction of this research and proposal. First, the fundamental research of performance's clothes is insufficient with restricted point and the literature investigation is difficult, second, it was difficult to stretch the whole market for performers because of limitation for research volunteers. Only few volunteers are from college who are majoring in music.
  9. Park, Eun-Kyung 112
    PDF KSCI
    The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of 'movement' expression in modern fashion(1910-2004) based on a study of modern fine arts which adopted 'movement' element in their work. In this study the meaning of movement was defined as motion, changing position and transformation. Literature survey through books and research papers and demonstrative study with fashion collection photos were undertaken. The results wert as follows ; 1) Kinetic art, optical an, light kinetic art and technology art such as video and computer art have adopted 'movement' element in their work. 2) The plasticities of 'movement' fine arts were identified as mutual penetration, increase of visibility, use of non-traditional materials and dynamism. The internal meanings were identified as expansion of aesthetic experience and the concept of fine art, optimistic attitude on technology, spectator participation and integration of art and life. 3) The 'movement' expression in modern fashion was distinctively found in 1910s-20s(avant-garde fashion), 1960s (kinetic and optical art fashion) and mid 1990s to 2004 (techno-cyber fashion). 4) The plasticities of the 'movement' expression in modern fashion were identified as non-definition, use of non-traditional materials, dynamism. The internal meanings were identified as expansion of aesthetic experience and the concept of dress, optimistic attitude on technology, playfulness through participation. In conclusion, the expression of 'movement' in modern fashion has optimistic viewpoint on the development of modern society and is one of the interesting design points which will be pursued in the fellowing years.
  10. Kwen Jin;Lim Young-Ja 127
    PDF KSCI
    This study provides a classifying framework in the modern knit wears, helps to have better understandings of the comparative differences between hand-knit skill and machine-knit skill in terms of the intrinsically characteristic values, and grasps the tendency in their applied techniques based on the characteristics. The comparative characteristics in modern knit wears are produced according to the used skills. The work completeness with which the clothing can be sublimated into the level of artistic phase is given in craftmanship-knit techniques. This makes it possible to design a rare one, and therefore provides a wider range of availability in clothing. The technical traits in craftman-ship-knit are identified as disassembly, specialty, decorativeness and rarity, and the different skills are employed by the characteristics. On the other hand, the differences are not used in ma-chine-knit wears in the way the craftmanship-knit type utilizes by the trait and, instead, the ma-chine-woven fabrics with a machine tool are taken on the whole. In the flow of fashion modes, the characteristics of machine-knitted wears are found remarkably in the modernized contemporary designs seeking for activity and functionality with the use of materials, colors and details minimized. And those trails are characterized as formality, simplicity, functionality and popularity. The comparison in knitting techniques is made in such a way of disassembly and formality; specialty and simplicity; decorativeness and functionality; and rarity and popularity.
  11. Choo Sunhyung;Cho Ju-Yeon;Kim Youngin 144
    PDF KSCI
    The purpose of this study is to make a Web Color Data Base for practical design system for domestic fashion industry. The market segmentation was based on the results of the previous studies and the characteristics of fashion consumers. Finally, the 14,121 color samples are collected from the survey of 55 manufacturers of domestic fashion industry and 116 fashion brands of major department stores. These color samples are analyzed by the Munsell's H V/C and CIE L*a*b* value. The representative colors are selected concerning the density in CIE L*a*b* color space and the distance between the color samples. As a result, We suggested 2213 representative colors. Also, this color data was constructed on Web site. The data were sorted by the market, season and color code. In addition, the representative color sample book was made for the prototype of .
  12. Chu Young-Joo 154
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    For the purpose of standardization and practicability of natural dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Puerariae Radix was studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of Puerariae Radix were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbance of Puerariae Radix solution was at 290nm and 301nm. The pH effect was stable in the color difference changes. The optimum temperature to extract Puerariae Radix was during 1 hour in loot. The effective dyeing temperature and time of silk were 80$\~$ 100$^{circ}C$, 1hour. The silk fabrics dyed with Puerariae Radix appeared yellow-brown. US value of dyeing fabrics was increased by Fe, and Cu mordant treatment. Mordanting treatment method affected color change of the dyed silk. In the case of Puerariae Radix light fastness of appeared more than 2-5 grades by mordant treatment. Perspiration fastness of appered more than 4 grades by Al, Sn, Cr mordant treatment. Fastness of abrasion and dry-cleaning appered more than 4-5 grades. These fastness improvement were generally effective for mordant treatment, specially Al, Sn, Cr.